2000 Dodge Ram Van going through heater resistors

I have a low miler 66k 1 ton Ram van 3500 with rear heat/ac. 2000 year model

The blower resistor was bad so I got another from the dealer. I installed it and had heat in the lower positions. The unit lasted a week and was blown. After I installed it I noticed the heater blower quit. I tapped it with a hammer and it came back on. Mopar did a claim for the resistor and the blower motor seems ok. How do I check the resistance on the motor before installing the new resistor? I was thinking of installing circut breakers inline as to not blow another resistor. I might have to change the blower motor, but currently it is working fine.

Anyone else had this problem with thier Ram Van? Email me.
morrisluvr@yahoo.com

Your blower motor needs to be replaced. It is drawing more power than it should through the resistor and causing it to burn out.

I had a feeling that I might have to change out the motor. Right now with the resistor out and the heater on full power the motor runs fine. I think the brushes might be sticking. The Dodge dealer wants 120.00 for a blower motor or Autozone has one for 65.00 lifetime warranty, made by siemens corp. The factory Dodge unit is a Denso one. I think the Siemens would be ok, it is half the price and full warranty instead of the dealers 1 year.

Happy Motoring!

I put one from Autozone in my van and have had no problems with it. The one downside to the AZ one is that you have to cut the pigtail off your existing blower and splice it onto the new one.

Because of the exposure to the elements under the hood, I strongly suggest picking up some heat shrink tubing (at AZ) to protect the splice. Electrical tape can be used but it doesn't hold up as well and can sometimes loosen up. No one wants the connection to their heater blower to fail on a cold wintry night. :)

I always solder my wires and heat shrink them to avoid a failed connection or a burn out from wire arcing. Thanks for the tip on the pigtail.
Happy New Year!

I have a 2002 Dodge Elk conversion van with front and rear heat. Neither working properly. I checked through the forums and think it is partially due to the heat diverter behind the glove box but neither fan works in any position but high. I was wondering where in the heck that resistor is that you were talking about , how difficult it is to replace ( it's below zero outside) and if I'm gonna have to change both blower motors?

The resistors are mounted in the air ducts. The front one is under the hood on the top of the big black air box on the passenger side. It has a flat 4-wire plug going to it. Not sure exactly about the rear one but it is in the back and not up front.

Thank you on the location for the resistors. Hopefully once I find the front one I will know what to look for with the rear. Also the problem I'm having with the heat in the van wasn't resolved by the diverter. I checked it and watched it moving back and forth as I dialed the heat setting up and down on the dash. It seemed to move in a complete stroke. Still the heat coming into the van is warm at best. I relaced the water pump, radiator and thermostat last summer and the temp guage seems to be reading very near 190 maybe a little under. The air seems a little warmer when driving at faster speeds on the freeway and cools down considerably on slower speeds. Both hoses on the heater core seem warm. I'm baffled!

Maybe your blend door isn't going all the way over, or the heater cores are dirty inside.