Are all corvette 350 blocks, 4 bolt mains, or was a 2 bolt main cap ever offered? I have what i was told is a corvette block. Im not so sure anymore, till i run the numbers. Also, can a fairly reliable 383 stroker, be made out of a 2 bolt main block. Or does the sheer torque involved say, feed me a 4 bolt morris! Thanks to any and all that knows.

The majority of early 350s were 4-bolts. The 2-bolt block was used extensively during the mid '70s. It's very possible a 2-bolt was used as a matter of convenience.

The 383 really should have 4-bolt mains. If you keep the revs under 5,500, and power under 400 HP, it should be okay.

Jim

MrPbody, Thanks for info. Ill just go up to 400 hp. then, and call it good. Cant see mahine cost involved to add 4 bolt caps. Ran my number # 14010207 Malibu, Camaro, or Light Duty truck motor. I have the 2 bolt version. Darn, hate that. Thank you for clearing up my ignorance. But, i really wanted to build a stroker. Maybe next time.

BP,

All is not lost. 4-bolt blocks aren't rare or expensive. If you REALLY want the high powered 383, just get a 4-bolt block and build that. Average price for a standard bore (will "clean" at .030") is around $150-$200. If you have trouble locating one locally, e-mail me and maybe I can scare one up.

Jim

MrPbody, Yes, now my hunt is on for a 4 bolt main block. Thanks for the offer, to help locate a block. I just might take ya up on that, but we both know shipping would probably kill that. You are right, if i dont go ahead and do a 383 stroker, ill always wish i had, and therefore be never really happy. Thank you for all your support, and knowledge shown.

BP,

Where are you? I know some folks on the Left Coast, too.

Jim

MrPbody, I am in Shelbyville, Indiana. Not far from Indy. I love that "left coast' note! Everytime i call a salvage yard for a block, its oh i wish we had some too. So, where are all these blocks to be had. Am i missing a mother lode dealer, or hoarder with 80 of them in his attic somewhere? I will find one. I will build this engine. Congrats on being a certified machineist. Not everyone can do that type of work. You are respected for your talent. Thank you, as always.

BP,

Your best bet to find one is the local "advertiser" paper with classifieds. You MUST actually pull the pan and LOOK at the mains to be certain if it's a 4-bolt. Casting numbers may or may not tell you what you need to know.

It is accepted that the earlier ('69-'74) are the "hardest" material, but I have no scientific data to back that up. You want the "driver's side dipstick" version. If you find one, get a "money back if it's cracked or .060" over" deal. It must be usable for you to pay out cash... Duh... A "large journal" 327 block or a 302 block (RARE ANIMAL, "DZ" code) are functionally the same as the 350 block. I don't know that I've ever seen a large journal 327 with 4-bolt mains, but that doesn't mean thare aren't any.

There should be plenty around. Good luck!

Jim

Actually, if you want a BETTER final assembly than a factory 4-bolt, start with a 2-bolt casting, purchase aftermarket splayed 4-bolt caps, and machine for those. Factory 4-bolts aren't really the best for ultimate strength. Bypass the factory truck blocks and build a stronger crank/main web area.

However, if you really crave a factory 4-bolt, I probably have a fresh/ready spare or two lying around in trash bags.

Blue Bowtie,

What you say about splayed-mains is certainly true. However, for a build at this "level", hardly necessary. The cost to install splayed caps is around $600 (caps and machine work). A rebuildable 4-bolt is in the $150-200 range.

For a race engine, I whole-heartedly agree. We've done a few here.

Jim