I have a 2005 Dodge Caravan with a heater blower that doesn't seem to be working. Whether the heater knob is on low or high, it does nothing, but you can feel a little heat coming out, though. I was told it may be a resistor behind the glove box. I've already checked the fuse, and it seems OK. What do I do? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Welcome aboard Thumper70! If generation 4 heater circuits are the same as gen 3 vans then I wouldn't eliminate it but, I would shy away from the resistor block if you're not getting any action in "high". "High" speed bypasses the resistor block. I would suspect either the blower relay or the blower motor itself. I believe your blower relay is in the fuse box under the hood. On my van it's up high under the dash and a real PITA to get at. Tap it. If the blower comes alive replace the relay. If it doesn't but, you can feel the relay click when you turn the switch, check for power at the blower motor connector. If it's there, replace the motor. As you make your way through the system do a visual check on the wiring and connections.

On my van there are two fuses. One powers the motor via the relay switch contacts and the other powers the relay coil.

Seeing the van is only 2 years old I would say it is highly improbable that the blower motor itself has gone bad . Do have autmatic climate control or is it manual with just the 2 sliders on the panel to control the heat ?

I am having the same problem as thumper is. the information you gave is extremly helpful but im not exactly savy when it comes to fixing vehicles. Is the parts your talking about in the same place on a grand caravan as the caravan? and im stationed in germany with no place that can fix it for me, and have not been able to locate a place online that has the pictures to go along with the parts i need to check. can anyone of you help me out please?

Well.... Looks like I am in the club with the heater issue. I went out this morning and no front blower (at any speed). I checked the fuse - OK / checked the relay - OK / checked the resistor block - OK / supplied 12v directly to the blower motor - OK. The only thing I can't rightfully test is the control panel. My van has the standard panel with the knobs and sliders for temp and motor speeds. I am running out of ideas, except for a trip to the dealer.:shakehead

Problem Solved! For those who WILL eventually suffer this problem, a good tip. Although I tested the resistor block for continuity and resistance, I did not test the diode (until today).

I took a closer look at this resistor block assembly and saw that Dodge chose to insert a diode on the negative side of the blower motor coming back through the block. This means that current will have to pass through this before going to ground or the motor will not work. I simply took a pair of alligator clips and bypassed the diode and the system works fine!

Foolishly enough, the diode is placed in the center of the resistor block and it surrounded by the four wire wound resistors (which throw a lot of heat). Ultimately, the resistors will bake the diode to death causing total failure of the blower motor.

For the life of me, I don't really see any practical reason that Dodge would insert a diode in this area unless it ensures that no discharge may occur back through the windings of the blower motor (which seems highly unlikely). Anyway, if you are in a bind and need heat and defrost in a hurry (like I did), I simply bypassed the diode. In my case, I took the assembly apart and used a resistor lead that was the same gauge as the diode leads and soldered it around the bad diode (a piece of solid core wire would work fine).

I will probably obtain a new resistor block and keep this one as an emergency backup because I would think that this will occur again (due to the placement of the diode and the heat factor). THANK GOD it is easy to get too!

Just some FYI.