At over 20mph in a left turn into my drive I hear a grinding sound and the brake pedal moves up and down a bit (never happens in a Right turn), and it only happens when stepping on the brakes in that left turn. Rotars, and pads have been replaced as a possible cause, not the problem, front & rear bearings have been checked, there tight. Right CV shaft (90,000 miles on it) now new/just replaced. Still the grinding noise continues. Now planning to replace the left CV shaft. Anyone with any similar problem is sure welcome to send me some advice. My only next step after the left CV shaft is to replace the strut bearings. The power steering pump is fine, and this only happens when I step on the brakes (4 wheel Disc). ABS light also comes on but continues to reset itself. This is one for the books because not a mechanic in town can figure it out.

Have a shop connect a scanner that will read ABS codes. Weight causes grinding. When in a left turn weight is shifted to the right front. Not sure a left cv joint could be the problem. Same for strut bearings. They normally create a clunk or bump sound. If you're going to play swap parts till it's fixed I would go with a new right front hub assembly. The wheel bearings within are a likely candidate. They may be only slightly worn and not enogh to notice by the wiggle test. Why only when you step on the brakes in left turns? Bearings are stressed most severely with added weight. You can't stress the right front bearings more than when braking in left turns. Not only is the weight of the van rolling to the right but, it is simultaniuosly shifting forward from you applying brakes. Once weight is taken off the bearings, stress is relieved and the noise disappears. No charge for my theory.

I'm assuming the noise is up front.

Have a shop connect a scanner that will read ABS codes.

Interesting you should say that because it agrees with something else I did. No one can find the problem. It is getting worse though and if it would be an absolute clicking noise instead of sounding like a bunch of ball bearings running around in a jar, I'd feel great about replacing the left CV shaft, but I'll do that this tuesday and let you all know what happens. After that is the bearing in the upper left Strut. The code that did come up took us to the right rear hub bearing sensor, I just wiggled the sensor connection, and checked the bearing it is all fine. But, the MPG monitor no longer says check your tire assemblies, so things are beginning to improve, one thing at a time.

Thank you for your comment regarding taking it and having the code read, the dodge dealer in town did not even bother to do that, he went right to the cv shaft and wanted $600 bucks, I did it for $115 as a military retiree at the hobby shop, hobby shop suggested warped rotars they were right, but after new front rotars and pads, the problem still continued, so no loss in the work so far except the new right CV shaft, oh well.

military retiree

Welcome to the club.

PROBLEM RESOLVED BUT!
It is difficult being an old type mechanic and being able to believe that a sound coming from the left front hub is actually the ABS system acting up because of the right rear hub sensor being bad.
Let's see I replaced both CV Shafts (I can thank the Dodge dealer right off the bat for $80 of bad advice), then a good mechanic says the computer says its the right rear hub (Do I listen NO), I replace rotars and pads (They were warped though so the repair was justsified, but not the problem). ALRIGHT THE grinding has now become a sound like a bad transmission when coming down a ramp (clicking sound), I'm really worried so I go get the new right rear hub, replace it myself (really easy with correct tools), and wouldn't you know it that solved the problem.
INTERESTING THOUGH is the fact that the bearings in the old left hub (now replaced) rattled pretty bad when shook. Same for that Right rear hub. And last night a moaning sound started up from the right front hub.
ALL STARTED at 90,000 miles exactly. I mean it was not even 90,001.5. So 2002TC van owners get your pocket books ready because at 90,000 or so if you hear a grinding sound when turning, left especially at abt 20mph, you're probably heading for hub bearing and sensor problems. Currently the left hub sensor is not sending a signal (this just started after the R hub replacement).
FUN FUN FUN But I sure hope my experience helps someone else. Total savings by doing the work myself is going to be about $1,200. Parts: $110 for front hubs, and $145 for the rear, I'm including the brakes and shafts in the labor savings. I believe all that was replaced were ready to be replaced especially the brakes, CV shafts?, L Front hub?, and R Rear no question. Now after replacing the R Front, and L Rear this week, I'll have darn near a new front end. 90,000 miles more here we come. We love our TC van, but wow is it ever hard to find expert mechanics with good advice. I want to thank all of you here for your advice though as you helped me make the decision to listen to the advice on the Code, but it sure was difficult to go to the R rear when the sound was coming from the L front!

WHAT ELSE?
Question to anyone with a similar van 2002, 3.8 engine, automatic, ft wheel drive, 4 disk brakes T&C Limited type.

What else do we have to look forward to for repairs. How long does the alternator / AC system hold up? Has there been a lot of problems with the electrical system (Don't remind me of the sensor please ha ha). We have already replaced one fuel pump (outside warranty by 1000 miles) no dealer did not pay! We did. If you have any advice let me know. Thanks. I like to do work before it has to be done, even replacing an alternator. It's cheaper at the shop than on the road.

WHAT ELSE?
Question to anyone with a similar van 2002, 3.8 engine, automatic, ft wheel drive, 4 disk brakes T&C Limited type.

What else do we have to look forward to for repairs. How long does the alternator / AC system hold up? Has there been a lot of problems with the electrical system (Don't remind me of the sensor please ha ha). We have already replaced one fuel pump (outside warranty by 1000 miles) no dealer did not pay! We did. If you have any advice let me know. Thanks. I like to do work before it has to be done, even replacing an alternator. It's cheaper at the shop than on the road.I just turned 255,000 miles on my '96 GC/LE (3.8 Litre, FWD, 4-spd Auto, front-disk, rear-drum, Heavy Duty Towing Package)... I replaced the alternator once at 212,000 (junk yard part) and never had to recharge the AC... still blows as cold as the day it was new. Radiator gave up the ghost at 245,000. The transmission blew twice, once at 111,000 and a second time (including a blown half shaft) at 184,000. But hey, from what I hear, 5 years/95,000 miles is about what you get from a Chrysler tranny/torque converter, so my experiences are par for the course.

Every now and then, the front wipers will randomly go on and swipe a time or two. One day the rear window washer decided to go on and stay on, emptying the washer fluid tank... I disconnected it. CD head unit crapped out at Year 4 (that was a little disappointing). Door locks don't always work like they should. Rear hatch door handle gets stuck in the open position... NO amount of lubrication has been able to fix this. Hmmm, what else? Oh, I've been through 3 ac/heater blower motors, 1 relay and 1 resistor block. That's about it. Aside from the transmission issues, my GC/LE has been very reliable and cheap to keep. Truthfully, the 3.8 Litre Mopar 6-banger is the best motor I've ever owned... NO problems at all... way better than any Toyota, Nissan, Datsun, GM or Ford I've ever owned.

I just turned 255,000 miles on my '96 GC/LE (3.8 Litre, FWD, 4-spd Auto, front-disk, rear-drum, Heavy Duty Towing Package)... I replaced the alternator once at 212,000 (junk yard part) and never had to recharge the AC... still blows as cold as the day it was new. Radiator gave up the ghost at 245,000. The transmission blew twice, once at 111,000 and a second time (including a blown half shaft) at 184,000. But hey, from what I hear, 5 years/95,000 miles is about what you get from a Chrysler tranny/torque converter, so my experiences are par for the course.

Every now and then, the front wipers will randomly go on and swipe a time or two. One day the rear window washer decided to go on and stay on, emptying the washer fluid tank... I disconnected it. CD head unit crapped out at Year 4 (that was a little disappointing). Door locks don't always work like they should. Rear hatch door handle gets stuck in the open position... NO amount of lubrication has been able to fix this. Hmmm, what else? Oh, I've been through 3 ac/heater blower motors, 1 relay and 1 resistor block. That's about it. Aside from the transmission issues, my GC/LE has been very reliable and cheap to keep. Truthfully, the 3.8 Litre Mopar 6-banger is the best motor I've ever owned... NO problems at all... way better than any Toyota, Nissan, Datsun, GM or Ford I've ever owned.

I GUESS I AM SUPPOSED TO TYPE HERE?
Yes, we or I should say I am planning on running this baby to 300,000. We got ripped off (in my opinion) by a transmission place that convicned my wife at 80,000 that the small pile of metal shavings in the pan meant transmission overhall (The owner and I had words later!!), All it was in for was some kind of an exterior transmission part that was leaking. So you say a junk yard alternator has held up. Great advice thanks!!,
NOW we have a van at 91,000; new hubs, new front brakes (rotars the works) new CV shafts -(wasted money but are lifetime shafts like the hubsd NAPA is great for that),
OH WHEN DID YOU replace your timing belt?, Power steering pump, and water pump? Timing belt I am thinking 100,000 cracks or no cracks, power steering pump just replacing the fluid every 10,000 seems to satisfy the growning noise, but the water pump???

THANK YOU SO MUCH for your post. Nice to see other Chrysler product owners sharing.

No electrical problems so far. I also like the way the A/C still blows cold.

HAVE A HAPPY HOLIDAY

Like my signature states _"we all learned something". Thanks for sharing your experiences.

May be apples and oranges but my 96 3.8ltr 4speed tranny with 197,000 miles still has the original transmission. Had to have a leak fixed once but that's it. It has never skipped a shift. As far as the 3.8ltr engine...they are bullet proof just as their little cousin the 3.3 ltr. The only major components I've changed are the radiator at 148K (leak), the water pump at 91K (leak), and the starter at 101K miles. Needless to say the day we unload this van will be a sad day. It is just too versatile to get rid of.

FYI - the 3.8 ltr engine uses a timing chain not a belt. You should never have to change it. Another plus, it is a non-interference or freewheeling engine meaning if the chain should ever break the valve train should not be damaged.

Like my signature states _"we all learned something". Thanks for sharing your experiences.

May be apples and oranges but my 96 3.8ltr 4speed tranny with 197,000 miles still has the original transmission. Had to have a leak fixed once but that's it. It has never skipped a shift. As far as the 3.8ltr engine...they are bullet proof just as their little cousin the 3.3 ltr. The only major components I've changed are the radiator at 148K (leak), the water pump at 91K (leak), and the starter at 101K miles. Needless to say the day we unload this van will be a sad day. It is just too versatile to get rid of.

FYI - the 3.8 ltr engine uses a timing chain not a belt. You should never have to change it. Another plus, it is a non-interference or freewheeling engine meaning if the chain should ever break the valve train should not be damaged.

We did have a shop connect a scanner that reads ABS codes, I think I mentioned this earlier. A local mechanic did it first after our Dodge dealer tried to shaft us with a $650 CV Shaft bill (did the work myself). Dealer saw the ABS light on and just reset it. Never read the code, I was looking to substantiate what local mechanic found. He found that the right rear hub was not working, now a new hub so we will install a new wire to the hub this week, and see if that solves the problem. Interesting is that the terrible grinding noise, and problem in a left turn went away immediately after originally replacing the right rear hub which was overheating anyway. Perhaps the overheating damaged the sensor that plugs into it. Will find out when I replace the part at the hobby shop. Note the Chrysler dealer wanted $185.00 parts and labor, Do it myself less than $60.00. Just hope this wire solves the problem.

Thank you all for your posts. We need to email this web site to all our friends that have the TC vans.

We did have a shop connect a scanner that reads ABS codes, I think I mentioned this earlier. A local mechanic did it first after our Dodge dealer tried to shaft us with a $650 CV Shaft bill (did the work myself). Dealer saw the ABS light on and just reset it. Never read the code, I was looking to substantiate what local mechanic found. He found that the right rear hub was not working, now a new hub so we will install a new wire to the hub this week, and see if that solves the problem. Interesting is that the terrible grinding noise, and problem in a left turn went away immediately after originally replacing the right rear hub which was overheating anyway. Perhaps the overheating damaged the sensor that plugs into it. Will find out when I replace the part at the hobby shop. Note the Chrysler dealer wanted $185.00 parts and labor, Do it myself less than $60.00. Just hope this wire solves the problem.

Thank you all for your posts. We need to email this web site to all our friends that have the TC vans.

CASE CLOSED: Yea, my hard head cost me about $600 more than necessary in parts, but interesting enough really I can't say that because so many bad and or worn (almost worn out) parts were found, BUT by returning to the original smart mechanic "RJ" who was the first to plug into the computer and read the code from the ABS light being on (I could not believe it so that is why all the $600 bucks worth of parts). AJ said it was a weird reading, I was was upset because the sound was coming from the left front, but in the end it was his reading that proved right.

RJ REPLACED THE WIRE going to the Left HUB (remember I replaced that hub last and when I replaced the hub the grinding sound from the left front area went away IMMEDIATELY! Why? I don't know maybe the bad hub/sensor was screwing with the ABS system) So after serious consideration (Replacing both front L/R disk brake systems, new CV shafts, and all 4 hubs, oh ball joints too) I went to the dealer bought the $40 part, and had RJ install it. ABS light went out and has stayed out now 50 miles.

SUGGESTION: 1st if your T&C or similar model van has close to 90,000 on it you might want to check the temperature of each hub after a fast run (50 to 60mph over 30 minutes). I believe the right rear hub was about to seize when I replaced it myself (The lug nuts were burning hot, the hub itself was BLACK inside (a burn black) and I think that cooked the sensor in the wire in the hub running from the computer to the hub. 2nd be careful turning your rotars the last time as there have been a lot of braking problems with the T&C vans (braking system not up to snuff for the weight) me when the hobby shop says this will be the last turn, I'm buying new rotars, 3rd replace that belt at 90,000 don't gamble.

Oh RJ was such a great guy that he also reset my engine light and suggested I use more care in filling up. Appears that overfilling the car at the gas cap can upset the computer as well!

4th, Talk to friends and find yourself a friendly trustworthy mechanic like RJ. In all he saved me over $800 in labor, he even discovered how I put the R rear disk back together wrong when I replaced the hub (guess the mistake is easy for a first timer) and did not charge me a nickel for fixing it.

From Pensacola, Fl. this is Gary thanking you all for a lot of your suggestions especially the get code read. (Sure wish there was a way to tell you all how we're getting 37mpg with this baby, I'll never trade it)!

Oh, I did replace my belt today, just to be safe 91,500. Cost $35 labor.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL

I GUESS I AM SUPPOSED TO TYPE HERE?
Yes, we or I should say I am planning on running this baby to 300,000. We got ripped off (in my opinion) by a transmission place that convicned my wife at 80,000 that the small pile of metal shavings in the pan meant transmission overhall (The owner and I had words later!!), All it was in for was some kind of an exterior transmission part that was leaking. So you say a junk yard alternator has held up. Great advice thanks!!,
NOW we have a van at 91,000; new hubs, new front brakes (rotars the works) new CV shafts -(wasted money but are lifetime shafts like the hubsd NAPA is great for that),
OH WHEN DID YOU replace your timing belt?, Power steering pump, and water pump? Timing belt I am thinking 100,000 cracks or no cracks, power steering pump just replacing the fluid every 10,000 seems to satisfy the growning noise, but the water pump???

THANK YOU SO MUCH for your post. Nice to see other Chrysler product owners sharing.

No electrical problems so far. I also like the way the A/C still blows cold.

HAVE A HAPPY HOLIDAY

DOES YOUR REAR HATCH DOOR STILL STICK?