I don't understand the whole Wastegate acuator thing and how switching out the stock one would help so can somebody please put this in perspective for me and explain I'm really confused...lol:uhoh:

A waste gate actuator is a vacuum operated device that opens a valve inside the turbo to let exhaust gases out of the turbo whenever the set boost level is reached. When your waste gate actuator is designed to open at 14 PSI, and once the engine is pressurized at 14 PSI your waste gate actuator will open and then let all of the exhaust gases exit the turbo without spinning the compressor fins as the boost level that its designed for is reached.

When should you use a aftermarket waste gate actuator ? When you are at higher boost (ie, 16 + PSI) levels you'll notice that your boost level will peak at a certain PSI but then fall between 5000-6000 RPMs. The best way to create a steady boost level or make it so that it wont fall off as much is to get a stronger waste gate actuator. This will allow you to have a higher more steady boost level between 5-6k RPMs which is where power is critical when your racing.

Very good explanation! In short, the wastegate actuator is a pressure regulator. The line going to the actuator comes from the intake manifold. When intake manifold pressure overcomes the spring pressure holding the wastegate closed, the wastegate opens and bypasses exhaust gas pressure which causes manifold pressure to drop. When intake manifold pressure drops, the wastegate closes and allows the compressor to build pressure and the cycle continues. Keep in mind that allowing the compressor to build more boost than the engine was designed for, will cause catastrophic engine damage!

so right now I'm pushing about 10-12 lbs in first and pretty much 14 through to 5th gear and in 5th gear my car tries to push like 16 or 17...but it gets kicked back a little under 16 because the ecu restricts it that low doesn't it? and then what I'm wondering is would a stronger wastegate help me out at all right now or should I wait until i'm pushing higher boost? and if I get the stage 1 ecu from mopar how much boost could I push safely I have stage 1 injectors right now...

Check with the dealer and ask them what maximum boost pressure should be. If you exceed that pressure, you're asking for trouble.

Im Stage 0 And Im Boosting Spiking 18 Dropping To 16 With A Manual Boost Controller AND A AGP WASTEGATE......with A Stage 1 U Could Spike 19 And Hold 17 But No More Than That To Keep It Safe....

Im Stage 0 And Im Boosting Spiking 18 Dropping To 16 With A Manual Boost Controller AND A AGP WASTEGATE......with A Stage 1 U Could Spike 19 And Hold 17 But No More Than That To Keep It Safe....

Are you running s0 injectors because if so that's just a tad too much boost...With s1 the max boost is 18.25 or you will pull timing...anything about 18.25psi requires a fuel controller so the computer thinks you are boosting less.

well I know I have the stage 1 injectors but I'm not sure about the ecu...on the stock ecu it restricts you to 15, 16 lbs don't it?

yeah but thats holding 16 pounds not spiking

Well it doesn't technically "restrict" you to a certain level of boost but the timing maps are made for certain levels of boost...and if you exceed those boost levels it will pulling timing and cause you to knock. This is where bigger injectors and a fuel controller(possibly a return line too) come into play...causing the computer to think you are boosting less and make more power on a higher boost level. Back when I was stock turbo, I had s1/s2 injectors/dtec fuel controller and ran 22psi falling to 17psi at redline.

what kind of fuel controller and rail do you suggest? and so what you're saying is you don't have to switch out the ecu to push higher boost or do I still have to?

you can get a dtec

what kind of fuel controller and rail do you suggest? and so what you're saying is you don't have to switch out the ecu to push higher boost or do I still have to?


Well...I always suggest the s1 do to the fact it will eliminate that nasty cel that blinds you everytime you drive but it's not necissary...if you find a way to annoy it then it's fine. Fuel controller wise...I would suggest an safc or emanage...I no longer suggest the dtec to people because of all the problems I had with mine and some local friends. The cheap wiring they use with their systems cause a lot of failures that are key in the fuel controlling process; that's beside the point though. Safc or emanage is good. Fuel rail wise...stock is good...but one's like boomba or perrin are good upgrades. If you are looking for an upgraded fuel rail, I currently am selling my boomba rail(it's black) if you are interested.