WIP: Revell Audi R10 TDI (Lots of pics)

Here's my WIP for the Revell Audi R10 TDI. The moldings are pretty good with the expected amount of flash and mold lines you would expect from Revell. The body looks true to shape and the kit offers nice detail. I have acquired the Studio 27 PE set, which is very nice, and I will be receiving the Dexter models PE set in the mail sometime next week. I plan to model the 2007 version as soon as Dexter Models release the decal set.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/222488008-M.jpg

On to the build. This kit is severely lacking in rear engine bay detail, especially the particulate filters which are a significant feature in the engine bay. Other missing components are radiator piping, ductwork, rear suspension, and the brake disc assemblies. I started on the engine and gearbox assembly which was airbrushed with Tamiya titanium silver. The cylinder heads and exhaust pipes are Testors Metalizer non buffing aluminum. The instructions call for the intake plenum to be gloss black, but I went with Alclad polished aluminum due to some reference pictures. I later discovered that the ribbing on the gearbox is totally fictional as the actual gearbox is quite smooth. The rear suspension is rather simplified. There should be a torsion bar at the top of the gearbox, but Revell chose the simple route yet again. Overall it doesn't look too bad at all.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/222487472-L.jpg

I have started sanding and test fitting various body components and other parts. I noticed that the rear engine cover was warped towards the middle, so the middle portion of the cover sat below the main body. I fixed this by gluing small tabs to the main body so the engine cover sat level. Its a huge improvement. I also added some tabs to the rear of the engine cover where it meets the tail-light/rear wing endplate body parts, and also added photo etch gurney flaps.

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I cut off the thick diffuser stakes on the undertray and have replaced them with the photo etch stakes.

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I also replaced the rear wing endplates with the photo etch endplates, as well as the rear wing supports.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/222496851-L.jpg

The steering 'wheel' has received the Photoetch treatment, specifically the dash in the middle of the 'wheel'.

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The cockpit 'floor' has been detailed with carbon fiber and various details.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/222487005-L.jpg

I sanded off the molded belts and used the photo etch seat belt.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/222487290-L.jpg

I am waiting on the Dexter PE set and some more Tamiya white primer so I can proceed with the major body components. This will be detailed in my next post :)

Finally someone decided to post progress on this beast, cf looks great. Keep us updated.

Looks cool.I was wondering how to figoure out the warped body problem. Thanks !

Nice start whose silver paint are you going to use for the body?

Nice start whose silver paint are you going to use for the body?

I might use Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum., although the flakes might be too large. I'm still undecided, maybe Alclad Aluminum.

Nice start, i like the small detail on the floor and the wheel...

Excellent attention to detail, looks superb. Can't wait until I get one of these :D

great start on this, it looks really nice so far. I like the motor too.

I bought the Scale Motorsport/LMM version of the car and was thinking about buying the Revell version and trying to swap the motor into mine. Wonder if it will work... hmmm!

Will follow your build on this though for sure.

Zurbert,

I put some interior pics here - don't know if they'll help you?

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=754612&highlight=audi+r10

Good luck with the build!

Thanks for the link, Cinqster :)

I have finally received primer and the Dexter PE set. If you are following this WIP and can't decide on which PE set to get, definitely get the Studio 27 and Dexter set as they compliment each other. I believe this has been touched upon in a different thread.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228126125-L.jpg

The major body components have been primed.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228122361-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228131121-L.jpg

I have decided to tackle the daunting side louvers. I started by hacking out the molded louvers in preparation for the PE louvers. These have since been sanded down and primed, leaving some sexy looking holes.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228122176-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228122592-L.jpg

Dexter had the audacity to include each individual louver as separate pieces! There are 13 louvers per side, and you have to glue them individually to the louver frame. I think it took me about 2 hours to do both.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228122783-L.jpg

The louvers for the rear hatch were a 'simpler' one piece part, but you had to bend each individual louver to a 45 degree angle which I verified with the photo etch protractor they include. (Kidding).

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228122938-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228121957-L.jpg

I am waiting on the Dexter 2007 Sebring/Le Mans decal set to be released so I can go ahead and start painting this beast.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/228126960-L.jpg

The louvers for the rear hatch were a 'simpler' one piece part, but you had to bend each individual louver to a 45 degree angle which I verified with the photo etch protractor they include. (Kidding).


Made me laugh :grinyes:

Very nice build! I working on mine right now two. I also ordered both the Studio 27 and Dexter photo etches, and am waiting for the 2007 Decals. The thing that bugs me about the new decals is that it says both Sebring and Le Mans, but judging from the picture, it shows only the Le Mans decals :( I do like how the Le Mans decals have the individual louvers. Yours looks really nice primed up. I like your idea about adding the tabs to keep the engine coverr up, I have that problem too. Any idea if your going to sand down the top of the engine, and use the photo etch Audi rings or just leave it as it is? I went with the photo etch.

Cant wait to see your next updates :)

They are doing a small additive sheet that will have the Sebring markings. They haven't posted it yet.
Nic

Very nice build! I working on mine right now two. I also ordered both the Studio 27 and Dexter photo etches, and am waiting for the 2007 Decals. The thing that bugs me about the new decals is that it says both Sebring and Le Mans, but judging from the picture, it shows only the Le Mans decals :( I do like how the Le Mans decals have the individual louvers. Yours looks really nice primed up. I like your idea about adding the tabs to keep the engine coverr up, I have that problem too. Any idea if your going to sand down the top of the engine, and use the photo etch Audi rings or just leave it as it is? I went with the photo etch.

Cant wait to see your next updates :)

bend each individual louver to a 45 degree angle which I verified with the photo etch protractor they include. (Kidding).
I sprayed coffee everywhere when I read that! :lol:

Nice build :thumbsup:

The louvers looks great !

Dexter Models has now released the LeMans decals. They had to add the red for the wing ends. They are soon releasing a resin onboard camera and resin brakes. You can get the decals, the PE, and the resin bits in a pack together for cheaper than the PE and decals separate. They are also including an Audi R10 nameplate for the first twenty (well 19 now since I ordered one, lol).

http://www.dextermodels.com/800/DCL%2024/R10-plate-800.jpg

Since I got the pack, I won't get mine until after Christmas as the resin bits are not ready just yet.
Nic

Stradasports has the 2007 decals in stock, but they're $41. I'm not willing to spend that much on a decal sheet so I have decided to go ahead with the 2006 livery instead. Updates should be posted soon. I've been tied up with a McLaren MP4/5B (which I should start a WIP thread for) and the Benetton B192.

what, 41 dollars for 1 set of decals is obsurd

what, 41 dollars for 1 set of decals is obsurd

There are two things contributing to the price. The first is the price of the $1 compared to the Euro. The second is that the decals are about three and a half sheets of the normal size. To include all of the black and red it has taken that much. If you think about it that is roughly $12 a sheet which is about normal from cartograph. With cars becoming so graphic intense and colorful, expect to start paying some money for decals. I know the flying lizard decals for the Porsche from Lemans this year will not be cheap if they are ever produced.
Nic

I guess thats a very good explaination, I'll guess I'll just stick to SparkModel for my R10's :)

I've done a lot with decals, both microscale and cartograph. There is no sound explanation for the 41 USD pric tag. It simply is not worth it and is price gouging. Yes the dollar is weak as hell, but you aren't paying true conversion prices for the kits. In other words, 130 euro kit does not cost me 187 over here in the states if I order from a US supplier. Another example are the spiderman decals by both Renaissance and Scale Motorsport equally as involved, and use more colors and are (were) half the price. Dexter will price themselves out of the market at those prices. European market is very very small compared to the US market and if the US market isn't willing to pay the price, you will sit on a lot of product.

Well, on a different note, Studio27 should be releasing their own set. At one time they were on the announcement page, but have since vanished. This usually means it is getting closer. I doubt though that it will come with all of the black and red though.
Nic

I've done a lot with decals, both microscale and cartograph. There is no sound explanation for the 41 USD pric tag. It simply is not worth it and is price gouging. Yes the dollar is weak as hell, but you aren't paying true conversion prices for the kits. In other words, 130 euro kit does not cost me 187 over here in the states if I order from a US supplier. Another example are the spiderman decals by both Renaissance and Scale Motorsport equally as involved, and use more colors and are (were) half the price. Dexter will price themselves out of the market at those prices. European market is very very small compared to the US market and if the US market isn't willing to pay the price, you will sit on a lot of product.\

exactly, the Porsche renaissance model I have costs roughly 330 dollars US or so, (right from the site itself) and I got the car for 190 brand new

Hi,

just to show another R10 model here:

it is a built-up resin model from Spark, painted in 3 colours, great seat belts in a colourful cockpit, front with CF-decals, detailled rear wing/support, chromed mirrors, ....

http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/28/1077928/6438363134383762.jpg

http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/28/1077928/3038663136373530.jpg


I guess it needs a lot of patience and additional parts to the Revell kit to get such a result, however Zurbert82, what we can see in your thead shows, that your skill IS good to make this a good model

Micha
Nice looking Audi who's paint did you use for the silver?

Hi Dave,

as I wrote, it is a buildup model, it comes from Spark as you see it here.

its the Lemans Miniatures car built up for Spark, since the two companies have joined forces now

Exactly, Spike, thanks

Finally, an update. I've since finished my Benetton B192, and my McLaren MP4/5B is on hold while I wait for white primer and white paint.

Since I am doing the 2006 livery with the kit decals, I decided I'd spray the body and the various wings, etc. The main body and rear cowling was sprayed with TS49 bright red, giving it a nice uniform finish. The side and roll hoops will then be masked off, and the rest will be sprayed TS17 silver. The photoetch parts are now pretty well integrated in to the body, especially the nightmarish louvers that were assembled piece by piece.

Everything else is more or less ready to go. I just need to finish painting the red/silver and then apply the decals. Pics will come later.

Here are the pictures. Just after these were taken I sprayed the car with TS17 gloss aluminum. I did very light coats at first, but my fear is that the aluminum bled through the masking tape, so I can only cross my fingers.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/252345344_3uZCw-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/252345327_GT3pC-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/252345303_zQXiG-L.jpg

Nice! Worse comes to worse, you mask off the aluminum and respreay the red! I hope it does not come to tha...maybe double the ammount of tape protecting?

Nice! Worse comes to worse, you mask off the aluminum and respreay the red! I hope it does not come to tha...maybe double the ammount of tape protecting?

Thanks JT! Much to my relief there was no bleed through, except between the fenders and the nose which will be covered with a decal anyway. I don't think I'd be able to spray red over silver because the red I use is very transparent, and needs a solid white undercoat. Here are the pictures. Clear coat is next.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/252524188_ufmLf-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/252524373_zFBQW-L.jpg

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Great mask job. Are you going to clear over the decals or apply decals on top of the clear?

Great mask job. Are you going to clear over the decals or apply decals on top of the clear?

Thanks! I'll apply the decals on top of the clear, plus I want to get rid of the step between the red and silver. I also don't want another episode of TS13 eating my decals again :( . I actually applied the clear today, but I ran out before I could clear the rear engine cover. Everything else has been cleared though. I'll have to buy some more tomorrow.

Thanks! I'll apply the decals on top of the clear, plus I want to get rid of the step between the red and silver. I also don't want another episode of TS13 eating my decals again :( . I actually applied the clear today, but I ran out before I could clear the rear engine cover. Everything else has been cleared though. I'll have to buy some more tomorrow.

I actually screwed up my masking job. The red/silver line behind the louvers was supposed to be in the panel line, but I stupidly masked it off 1-2 mm away from the panel line. I decanted the TS17 gloss aluminum to touch this up, but it doesn't match the rest of the silver. I then got anxious and attempted to use some Duplicolor Clear over the TS13 clear, hoping it would blend the 2 shades of silver, but they are still slightly mismatched. I will probably have to mask off the red and spray a light coat of silver to even things out, then apply TS13 clear. I now basically have 5 coats. Primer, Bright Red, Gloss Aluminum, Clear, and Duplicolor Clear. The Duplicolor clear seemed to react well with the Tamiya clear,but does anybody see any possible problems with this? :frown:

will you spray the grey also, because the lovers will be difficult to do on the rear hatch

and that is a great silver, excellent job on the paint

will you spray the grey also, because the lovers will be difficult to do on the rear hatch

and that is a great silver, excellent job on the paint

Thanks Spike. I will use the decals for the grey. I had to mask the red off again and re-spray the body with decanted TS17 gloss aluminum, because the duplicolor clear exposed some of the red paint underneath. I'm done masking, plus I already cut out the rear louvers from the decal sheet, and found that Tamiya Neutral Grey is a perfect match. In fact I sprayed the front splitter neutral grey, which is the only part of the car where I am not going to use the grey decals. This has turned in to somewhat of a masking/painting nightmare, but I think it will come out fine in the end.

Update - I scrapped the one piece PE seatbelt because it was a pain to bend and it just didn't look right. It was also on the seat upside down, lol. I opted for the Dexter PE buckles. I made the belts out of doubled up masking tape painted red. It looks much better than before. I also CF'd the entire cockpit, except for the parts that won't be visible.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/258016958_Nknyb-L.jpg

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/258017083_HFspC-L.jpg

I waited a couple of weeks for everything to dry before I sprayed the body in TS13 clear. I had planned to decant and airbrush it, but unfortunately my compressor burnt out, so I ended up using it straight from the can. It looks beautiful, however some of the panel lines are a bit shallow due to my countless layers of paint, lol. I spent the entire day applying the decals. The decals are printed by Cartograph and are some of the best I've worked with.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/258016006_39GFp-L.jpg

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I applied the tiny PE nuts/bolts on top of the molded nuts/bolts using white glue. This was before I sprayed everything in clear, which should have 'sealed' them in.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/258016418_nga9j-L.jpg

The neutral grey paint for the front monococque didn't go down too well so I ended up using the Revell kit decals. It doesn't cover the entire part - some of the neutral grey shows through although it is not very noticable. I applied a Scale Motorsport CF decal on top of the Revell CF decal On the splitter . This is because I was not happy with the gap between the splitter and the monococque. It now covers that gap looks much better.

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/258017357_e3hQa-L.jpg

I'd like to do something about the awful Revell wheels. After some test fitting I have found that they protrude outside the bodywork, plus the spokes are way too thick. I looked in to the Scale Productions OZ rims, but according to Spike they do not fit on to the hub. Hopefully something can be worked out...

wow, excellent job so far.

I hope my can look like that when its done.

the seat looks alot better now that you got rid of S27's PE seatbelt.

guess I really need to get working on mine

Very nice! The Carbon Fiber looks amazing, Ive only applied the kits CF to the cockpit, and have hit a few problems :) Fantastic job on the seat belts, Ill have to remember that when doing them. Im not so great at the bending part of p/e, my rear wings in trouble. Did you use German grey for the brakes? What if you sanded down or cut down the connectors to the wheels, could that help fit the wheels? Also, did you spray clear before the decals?

Very nice! The Carbon Fiber looks amazing, Ive only applied the kits CF to the cockpit, and have hit a few problems :) Fantastic job on the seat belts, Ill have to remember that when doing them. Im not so great at the bending part of p/e, my rear wings in trouble. Did you use German grey for the brakes? What if you sanded down or cut down the connectors to the wheels, could that help fit the wheels? Also, did you spray clear before the decals?

Thanks for the comments JT! I think I used dark grey on the brakes. I painted the Studio 27 parts titanium gold. I could sand down the connector things, I just need to find the right dremel bit. Yes, I applied the decals over the clear. I actually waited ~24 hours after the clear was sprayed (bad habit of mine, lol).

Whats up with your rear wing?

The rear wing is from the KA set, and its actually the side pilons that hold the wing up...you have to bend them into shap. The hard part is if you bend too much high, the wing will be too high and vise versa....also gluing p/e parts is hard for me, I only have the testors orange glue....need to invest in some real glue....:)

super glue is very cheap, just go get some :)

I actually waited ~24 hours after the clear was sprayed (bad habit of mine, lol).

If you wnt your paint dry quickly invest in a food dehydrator, they are worth every penny they cost.

I have finished the rear end of the car. The PE end plates don't really match up with each other so the wing is a little bit crooked. I attempted to fix it by adjusting the position of the wing and it's slightly improved, but not perfect. Another problem - the engine cover fits too tightly and ends up pushing the end plates out. I addressed this by sanding the hell out of the part of the engine cover where it contacts the rear of the car. I also finished the headlamps (sans covers in these photos). The next step is to finish the mirrors, and somehow get the wheels to cooperate. I also need to finish the pieces of the body work that carry the german flag. I stupidly super glued a toothpick on to the side that will be visible! I had to sand off the paint, fill the hole, and start over. She's almost done!!

http://zurbert82.smugmug.com/photos/260052742_jicLY-L.jpg

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Very nice! Yep, the engine cover has been giving me hell too, I sanded that puppy down until it was about as thin as a p/e part...its the engine mount and the transmission block...The engine bay looks fantastic! Sorry to hear about the wing, thats where Ive been having the most trouble. What I find great is the fact thats theres 3 of use building the R10, and that we give motivation to each other everytime theres a post. Sadly, I cant work on mine until the super duper glue arrives lol.

Cant wait to see this bad boy finished!

Looks very good, a testament to your modelling skills.

It is difficult to see the crooked wing you talk about but I acknowledge that getting rear wings square and true is one of the hardest parts of modelling motorsport vehicles. Some of my early models suffer from a crooked rear wing and I took some advice which has allowed me to improve my chances of getting an aligned wing. Basically, you need glue that doesn't bond immediately and 2 stacks of about 5 CD cases. Construct the wing in between the 2 stacks of CD cases then use the CD cases to clamp the rear wing end plates by shutting the gap. By moving the CD cases to adjust the wing, you should be able to get a square and true assembly.

HTH,
Bill

Looks very good, a testament to your modelling skills.

It is difficult to see the crooked wing you talk about but I acknowledge that getting rear wings square and true is one of the hardest parts of modelling motorsport vehicles. Some of my early models suffer from a crooked rear wing and I took some advice which has allowed me to improve my chances of getting an aligned wing. Basically, you need glue that doesn't bond immediately and 2 stacks of about 5 CD cases. Construct the wing in between the 2 stacks of CD cases then use the CD cases to clamp the rear wing end plates by shutting the gap. By moving the CD cases to adjust the wing, you should be able to get a square and true assembly.

HTH,
Bill

Thanks! Unfortunately that really wasn't an option for me, because the photo etch rear wing end plates needed to be glued and filled before the assembly and painting was started. What I should have done was re-adjust the entire assembly while mounting it on to the chassis, because from a side perspective, one of the end plates is maybe 5 degrees higher than the other. I used "Krazy Craft Glue" for the actual wing, due to the fact that it goes on slightly thicker than standard CA glue, and dries slower allowing more time to reposition, etc. While I as attempting to fix the rear wing issue, the top part of the photo etch rear wing support came loose, requiring me to re-glue while it was in place. Hopefully I won't have to report any more problems

Thanks! Unfortunately that really wasn't an option for me...

You are quite right, I can't explain why I didn't revisit what you had done :banghead: My mistake... in my defence I had only just got up :grinyes:

Cheers,
Bill

It looks fantastic! I love this kit and hope to get one one day..

Ro

Complete - http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=892881


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