Friction plate or something more serious?

Well...another problem with the car. Whenever I accelerate the car "slips" and finally "catches" after a few seconds. When I make hard/fast turns it makes the problem worse. If I accelerate hard I don't have the problem. Sometimes when I'm just holding a speed it "slips" out and I loose a good bit of power, not all, just most. I can accelerate out of it if I floor it. The RPM shows a drop also. Is this a friction plate? How bad is this to fix? Can it be done for a few $100 or is this a major trans overhaul? How long can I drive with this? Will this cause other problems if I don't fix it now?

I know I've posted a lot of questions lately, but you people are the best at helping me fix problems on the car. :biggrin: Thanks for all the help. (still trying to fix the rewired fusebox, but thats on hold till the trans is fixed...) This is my only car and I cant get another till spring, not that I want to. This car has been great. (paid $300 for it three years ago, and less than $2000 to keep it going)

What year, is the trans full, is the fluid clean and red? What do mean "friction plate," if referring to internal trans components, yes they could be slipping which is going to lead to a trans failure.

Sorry, I always forget specifics. 1990 olds Delta 88 Royal Brougham. I had the trans fluid and filter changed less than a year ago. The fluid is red, clean, and it's full. It's got almost 160,000 miles. I put in some trans fix, did nothing. I asked a guy at the shop and he said it sounded like a friction plate, he says that it transfers the power from the engine to the trans? He may be full of it though, lol.

There is no such part/component, don't know what to tell you here, but sounds like the trans is near the end.

I took it to the shop today...it's the trans...:banghead:

At advance it's $1100 for a rebuilt one, it's only got a 60 day warranty. They don't even have new. I checked at the shop they will rebuild it for $600, and for another $150 it's got a 1 year parts and labor warranty. Does this sound good or should I look elsewhere? Should I even do this? Is it time for a new car....:frown: There's very little rust, there is only a little rust in the engine compartment and wheel wells, all come off with a 3M pad. The hoses, alternator, radiator, belt, brakes, rotors, brake lines, fuel system, harmonic balancer, trans cooling hoses, power steering lines, all are less than two years old. The engine runs great and still peels out at lights (love ticking off the import tuners, LOL)

I've never heard of one of these transmissions costing 650 to rebuild, cheap, amazing.

That's unbelievable with a 1 year warranty, does that include labor?

I guess it's a good deal then. Yes, for $150 more I can get a 1 year parts and labor warranty. It's just gonna take them three days to put it in...whenever I get it done...I wish I were getting overtime like I was a few months ago, I'd get it done now.

It's also leaking trans fluid now, and the car temp used to stay between 190 and 200, I saw it go up to 215 yesterday...I'll have the radiator flushed on my next day off. The power steering pump is "clicking" now to...lots to do...:frown:

I loose this car and I loose my job, so hopefully she'll hold together till the first of the year till I get some more work. (a baker getting his hours cut during the holidays...thats just wrong...)

I was wondering, could I just put it in drive instead of overdrive? You know, as long as I stay off the interstate. Whats the safe max speed in drive? (and 2 and 1, just in case) Will this help at all or does it have nothing to do with it?

Thanks people for the info.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING and good vibes to all. :cheers:

Out of o/d, 50-55 is ok. You will know what the limit is in 1st and second by the sound of the engine winding up.

Ok, thanks again.:)