No Start

94 Olds 88 with about 140K.

Drove it home Thursday night, Friday morning, it won't start, won't even try to turn over. So, I checked all the fuses in the two cab compartment fuseblocks and in the maxifuse relay center. No fuses are out. Next, I check the voltage of the battery, which came out to about 11.74 volts, then I checked to see if I was getting power down at the starter solenoid, which I was. I was told that I should be able to hear the starter solenoid click, which I checked and couldn't, so I changed it out, and still nothing.

I checked around here for similar issues and to see what things I should take note of. One thing is that the security light doesn't stay one. All the other electronics in the car turn on when I turn the key to the run position, but when I turn it to start, the starter won't kick at all. I haven't checked to see if fuel is being pumped or not. I'm not sure if that would matter.

So I have a few questions:

1. What is the problem with the engine?
2. Is there a way to jump the starter to get the engine running?
3. If there is, will the engine stay running, or is there a way to keep it running?
4. Is there anything else I should test?
5. If there is a solution available at this point, how much would it usually cost?

I've now been told that not all solenoids click, and that my starter could simply be bad. Before I tear it out to test it, I would like to try to jump it to see if it would work.

What I'd primarily like to know is how to jump the starter to see if it's bad.

If the starter is bad, how do I remove it?

If you only have 11.74 volts on the battery, your battery is dead and the starter will not engage! If you get the battery charged, it should turn over. If you like, you can "jump" the starter by applying 12.67v (battery voltage) jumper from the positive cable on the starter, to the smaller purple wire. This should "jump" your starter.

you should be getting 12 volts at the small purple wire on the stater while in the cranking position. check that, if you have nothing and the security light is on then there is a vats problem. if not it could be the ignition switch on lower section of column. or an open in that circuit but i doubt it. if you do have power down there and no engage from the starter then replace it and the solenoid.

you should be getting 12 volts at the small purple wire on the stater while in the cranking position. check that, The OP said "I check the voltage of the battery, which came out to about 11.74 volts" so therefore, he can not get 12V to the purple wire. :screwy:

When a battery drops voltage, even a small amount, it makes a big difference. For instance, when a battery drops from 12.6 to 12.0 volts, its power drops from 100% to 25%. At 12.4 volts, a car battery is 75% charged. At 12.2 volts, it's 50% charged. A car battery is considered charged at 12.4 volts or higher. It is considered discharged when it's at 12.39 volts or less. If it is at 11.74 volts, it is dead, (DEAD):iceslolan

i understand the theory, someone already stated that he needs to charge or replace battery but i was referencing as if he has some sort of voltage showing,it would eliminate the fact that there is a open in the starting circuit. as we know that could be shown with a test light or volt meter

Thanks for the help.

I charged the battery and tried to start it, but nothing happened yet. So, I pulled the starter to get it tested and it came up dead. Also, one of the two bolts holding the starter on was missing, which I was informed by the person testing the starter that it could have not only caused the starter to burn out, but also other various problems I've been having such as my car shutting down on its own and a clicking sound when I hit my breaks that goes away when I hit the gas.

Does this like something that would happen?

Thanks for the help.

other various problems I've been having such as my car shutting down on its own and a clicking sound when I hit my breaks that goes away when I hit the gas.

Does this like something that would happen?
Not really, but I guess time will tell! :iceslolan

Well, I got the starter mounted, but I'm having an issue with shimming it. The starter shaft is supposed to be 1/4" away from the tips of the flywheel gear. It was suggested that I use a 1/4" Allen wrench or drill bit. The problem I'm having is that when the starter is in, there's no way to see where the wrench is being place.

Is there a cover I can take off to see where the flywheel meets the starter?

was there any shims with the starter? if not don't worry about them unless u hear a loud grind while starting it. if you do, start with the thinnest shim,changing sizes until it goes away. i get these cars from the auction all the time and the 3 starters i have put on them needed no shims

It came with 2 thin shims, maybe 1/8" thick, maybe thinner. I haven't heard any strange noises while starting, but I haven't really listened for any. I'll have to check a little more to make sure, I've heard that if shims are needed and aren't put in, that major problems can happen like teeth on the flywheel breaking off or starters burning out prematurely.

best believe if it was needing them, you would hear it loud and clear! no loud grinding noise? don't worry about the shims. good job on installing it yourself!