1996 Chevy Lumina Security Key Resistor Overide, only $1.07 at Radio Shack

On the 1996 Lumina, There is a security feature that will sometimes get worn out and cause the car to not start, either the two wires in the ignition switch get really worn, or broken, or the resistor in the key may wear out. The car remains dead, with nothing but a security light blinking on and off.

I just aquired this headache about 12:00 last night, and decided that i would spread the word. I checked with the Dealership for the fix, and they told me that they, and only a few others were the only ones who could fix it, and gave me a minimum price of $500-$1000.

My car was dead in a parking lot, And i don't believe in paying these guys big bucks like this, for taking 30 seconds to import an overide code into the computer of my car with their high tech gadgets. So i decided to see if there was some way to overide this security feature, and there is!

I got out the Ohms Meter, And found that the so-called-resistor in my key was showing 1.478 Ohms of resistance. So i made a trip to Radio Shack and bought a pack of 1.5 Ohms resistors for $1.07, then returned to my Jalopy, and proceeded to remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column for the Hotwire.

Once you remove the column, you will see a white wire, (Can't miss it!wrapped in Bright Hunter Orange sleeve), that meets up into a black plastic plug, this is the culpret wire that runs to the computer, and sends the signal that causes the computer to disallow your car to start. I unplugged the black plastic plug, and then inserted a 1.5 Ohms resistor parallel into the two holes in the male end. and also inserted another parallel on the female end. After a few minutes of messing with the wires, i turned the key on to find the security light stopped blinking, and stayed on, and then after a few seconds went off, i then engaged the key, and walla! She cranked right up!

The security light comes back on now, and stays on while i'm driving, but she starts every time.

Good luck!:wink:

That's a common override setup, but now you have no passive security...any boob with a screwdriver and 20 seconds can steal your car...

Of course knowing that model comes with passive security is usually deterrent enough, probably not an issue. Good description of the fix! Thanks!

it is important to note that you need to measure the actual resistance in the key and match that, because it is not the same in every vehicle.

can someone tell me if this would stop my lumina from getting spark and no power to fuel pump. because my car still cranks and the security light comes on for a few seconds then goes off .

i was also told that my car should not crank at all is this true with a security problem.

i have another post that my give you somemore into my problem the post is ( no spark/no power to fuel pump .
so please let me know what you think thanks

can someone tell me if this would stop my lumina from getting spark and no power to fuel pump. because my car still cranks and the security light comes on for a few seconds then goes off .

i was also told that my car should not crank at all is this true with a security problem.

i have another post that my give you somemore into my problem the post is ( no spark/no power to fuel pump .
so please let me know what you think thanks

When the VATS system works right, it will disable the starter and fuel injection (not the pump). sometimes when the VATS decoder module and/or it's wiring to the ECM is the problem, the starter may crank but the injection will still be dead...

The light will typically be on for 5 seconds or so after a crank..

Hi guys,
I have 2 keys for the car. one is showing 7000 ohms and the other 7500 ohms. Heres what happened, a couple of months ago, I went to the store, park the car, returned and the vehicle would not start (not even turn over). I have both keys with me, I usually use the one with the 7000 ohms to start it and notice that I was using the other one with 7500 ohms, switch keys, no start, (Note: I just got done having a blinker lever switch put in.) Play with blinker lever and tilt steering wheel, no start.
So I start tearing out the underdash to see if something is shorting out or something came loose. Took about 3 mins. I don't see any loose connection and all looks well. So I go into the store call for help. 10 mins. later they get there, I put the key in with 7000 ohms and I'll be damn, it starts. I take it home, switch keys, the 7500 ohms one starts it too.
Now I am at a lost and I found this post.

So I sit here and figure, I don't play with it right now, its staring up.

Sure enough, last week it does it again. But this time I am using the key with the 7000 ohms From other post I see they say to wait 10 min, the security light goes off and it will start. Waited 10 mins, security light still on, it won't turn over. So now I am stranded again. Go back into the wal-mart, get a cup of coffee, quit cussing, mellow out, call a friend for help, come out a 1/2 hour later, put in the 7000 ohm key, fires right up. The second time this car has made me look like a fool. Thats it, not again.

It hasn't done it again and I don't plan on waiting around for it to do it again.
So I am going to bypass security crap. Mind you, I know anyone will be able to start the car, but where I live at (the boonies), I don't even take the keys out of my car. So I am not worried about that.

I took my keys to the electroincs college professor to get my reading for the resistant of the keys. I had him read this post and he stated that 7000 ohms is quite a difference from the 1.5 ohms that was started in the Fourm.

Does this 7000 ohm reading sound right, and if so, do I goto radio shack and buy a 7000 resistor? If there is such a thing.

Thanks for all your help

Shotgun

@ shotgun
U probably got this fixed by now but i was having the same problem as you for the last couple weeks id turn the key, security light on but no turn over ten minutes later i try again and it start right up then today after an eight hour sit in -15 degree weather it happened again so i sat and waited when i did get it to turn over the battery died, argh so i tried to jump it but now the security light doesn't go off at all even with the battery jumped so i got it towed to my garage came across this forum thought id give it a try. the ohm reading on my key is 4000 the same on my spare and since radio shack was closed by the time i figured this out so i went through a bunch of old circuit boards to try to find the right resistor then it dawned on me use your other key(duh) i used my spare key as the resistor in jeeps method and blammo fired right up(after a jump start) its not a permanent solution but now i know i just have to visit the electronics store to fix it the 1.5 ohm reading does sound a little funny though he probably meant Kohms (x1000) any way this thread was of great help to me and it saved me a trip to the mechanic thanx

Glad to see this thread was of help to you. Since this is an old thread it is being closed per AF User Guidelines. Feel free to start a new thread on this subject if further discussion is warranted, you may also link to this thread if needed for reference.