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'03 GC Limited with heat on one side only!Gary L 10-29-2007, 06:02 PM I'm stumped! drivers side blows hot and passenger side blows cold on any setting! It almost feels like the AC is on for the passengers side while the heat is on for the drivers side. Flapper seems to work when switching between directional functions but absolutely no warm air goes to the right side. I do have a code reader but will have to teach myself how to use it if this might help. Some info on what and/or where to look sure would be helpful right about now. Thanks Gary Bob D. 10-30-2007, 12:16 AM Sounds like the infamous blend door failure. Retrive the fault code/s as follows: 1. To enter the self-diagnostic mode, depress the a/c and recirc buttons at the same time and hold. Rotate the left temperature control knob clockwise (CW) one detent. 2. If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons depressed, the AZC control module will perform a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display. In the Segment Test you should see all of the display segments illuminate as long as both buttons are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c heater control must be replaced. 3. After viewing the Segment Test, release the A/C and Recirc buttons and the display will clear momentarily. If there are no fault codes, the “00” display value will remain in the VF window. Should there be any codes, each will be displayed for one second in ascending numerical sequence (note: no effort is made to display faults in the order they occurred). The left side set temperature display will be blanked and the right side set temperature display will indicate current and historical codes (8 historical max) presently active. Once all codes have been displayed, the system will repeat the fault code numbers. This will continue until the left side set temperature control is moved at least one detent position in either direction, by pressing both the A/C and Recirc buttons at the same time, or the ignition is turned off. Record all of the fault codes, then see the Current and Historical Fault Code charts below for the descriptions. Then find the code description here: http://www.wjjeeps.com/climate.htm Gary L 10-30-2007, 05:13 AM Thank you Bob D. I will perform the diagnostics tonight when wife gets home from work. I do suspect and it certainly is my luck the flap is shot! It just went past the 7-70 Platinum Extended warranty that never got used even once. We could have got this repaired for the $700 and still had an extra $700 left over! Can you or can anyone scan the break down page/pages of exactly where this flap will be found when I begin tearing the dash out? It is not a job I look forward to but I also have a leak that soaks the drivers side floor when it rains very hard so will want to address that at the same time. Thanks Gary Bob D. 10-30-2007, 08:16 AM That's a tough break all right. Unless you get lucky it's about a $1,000. - $1,500 job at the dealer. This site will give step by step instructions for fixing the HVAC system if you don't have access to a FSM. If it is the sub assembly and you are need to pull the dash, count on spending at least a full weekend on it... http://www.wjjeeps.com/hvac_sub_assembly.htm Gary L 10-30-2007, 03:51 PM Thanks Bob. I'm sure this is something I can handle but it won't be much fun. It has been a Love/Hate thing since we bought it! She loves it and would go right out and buy another while I hate it and won't! Gary Gary L 10-31-2007, 07:27 AM The more I read and ask about this the more disgusted I am! My local dealer is well aware of this problem and has replaced numerous blend doors at outrageous dollars. Jeep is well aware they have a lousy design and upgraded it! Their hope is that the failure does not occurr until after all warranties are expired! NICE! Exactly the reason I won't be looking at Jeeps in our future but I am also aware other companies would do the same! Gary Gary L 11-02-2007, 12:52 PM Finally! Well Bob, I did the diagnostic proceedure and need a bit more guidance before I run out buying parts or tearing out the dash. Your paragraph; 2. If you continue to keep the a/c and recirc buttons depressed, the AZC control module will perform a Segment Test of the Vacuum Fluorescent (VF) display. In the Segment Test you should see all of the display segments illuminate as long as both buttons are held. If a display segment fails to illuminate, the vacuum fluorescent display is faulty and the a/c heater control must be replaced. This is what I found so far. I get no segments to display when I continue to hold both AC and REC buttons. It just remains 00/00. When I release the buttons I show codes 52 & 56 (travel too far on both sides). I'm confused a bit. It looks like my VF display is faulty and I need to replace the A/C Heater control. Is this the entire panel where the buttons are located? If so, it looks expensive but easy enough to do! I might even find this part in a wreck at the junk yard a few miles away and I know I can use either 2003 or 2004 parts. What I am affraid of is buying and switching the AC/Heat control and still having to tear the dash appart to replace the blend doors because of the 52 & 56 codes I am getting. Any thoughts or guidance here will be much appreciated. Thanks Gary Bob D. 11-04-2007, 01:16 AM I think the fluorescent display is test is ok, what is meant by all segments is the "8" you have probably seen on a digital watch etc. when it is momentarily in self test mode. In your case you are seeing a "0", so the center segment is not being displayed in the test for some reason. Run the heater/ ac temp. controls normally and try to get an 8 to display. If it does I'm reasonably sure the vacuum display is fine. Even if it was bad it would not cause the HVAC codes that you are getting. Now the real problem. (make sure to clear any historical codes first as directed.) Those codes, 52 & 56, mean: 1. The Re-circulate door is bad (52 = door travel range too large) 2. The right side temperature (blend) door is bad (56 = door travel too large) These codes are almost universal when the HVAC sub assembly fails and you will need to replace it (dash removal required) Its a time consuming job but it's the only way to fix it. You can fix the leak at the same time - could be a seal around the heater core/ducting. Just follow the directions at wjjeeps and you should be ok. If you have any questions repost and I will try to help. Gary L 11-04-2007, 08:33 AM Thank you BobD! The fact is when I continue to hold the button I do actually get 88/88 but I was expecting it to do some sort of run thru the segments and not just remain at the 88/88 display. Guess I have my work cut out. Gary vBulletin®, Copyright ©2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
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