My 99 is cranking but not starting. I took it in and was told that it was the ignition module. $324. They said they replace it four times and then said that it could be the crank position sensor, wiring, or the computer. Then they called and said it needed a new starter...$250, because its a very hard one to do, I replace it and its pretty easy. At that point I had the car towed home. I replaced the starter and crank position sensor. Tested Ignition module with test light. Did not blink when engine cranked. Acording to Haynes repair manual it is 'most likely bad', but thats as far as Haynes goes.

My question is, before I spend $85 more, is there any thing elce that may be causing coil to act bad and the engine not to start?

First, did you check for spark?

If you have no spark and the crank shaft sensor was replaced, you still can have a few problems. It could have an ignition module problem for sure, it could also have a coil pack problem/grounding out. You need to check for spark first, not at one plug, but at a few.

Ok, finally had time to work on the monte. What I found was a badly damaged wire leading from the Ignition module to the second crank position sensor on the back, called a 7X. All most certainly shorting to the block. No idea how that happened. I replaced the wire and the sensor, what a job the sensor was! The car started after that, but there was dull popping like it was missing, they sound differently then the carborated models I am use to. I tracked down switched spark plug wires, dont think that I did that... The car idled great after that but would not accelerate, it would just bog out and almost stall.

The brake, anti lock, and check engine lights are on. Disconnecting the battery for a while did not reset them.

The Haynes book states that 'any time a crank position senson is disturbed, a Crankshaft Position Sensor Variation Learning Procedure should be performed or a false misfire diagnostic trouble code may be set. If after replacing the sensor, a false diagnostic trouble code is set, take the vehicle to a dealership service department for the procedure'.

Is there any thing else I may be missing befor I get a scanner and then... take it inn...Ugh!

Get the code and post back.

Code 300~ Radom Multipule Cylinder Misfire.

I idled the car to the local auto zone for there actron scanner, car would not go over 12mph.

Possible the cat is blocked, check for fuel pressue at the rail, all basic diagnostics for what you describe , again assumes no mixed up wires or misfire from ignition issues.

Could be a fuel injector too.Luckily my father has a Tech 2,GM's factory scan tool which shows a misfire graphic.Most aftermart scan tools do not have this.The 3.1 has fuel injector problems too and did replace one recently in a Buick and cleaned them with a cleaner on one car which ran great after that.

Ok,

I went a bought a fuel gauge today, oil pressure gauge did not work.
With ignition on: 40psi. Running: 38psi. If it were 1998 and older it should be between 41 and 47 psi. 1999 later: 52 to 59psi.

I then changed fuel filter... same readings.

I applied 15psi of vaccum. and fuel pressure dropped 3psi. with a range of 3 to 10psi. Good...

Next connected hose to return line and slowly pinched hose and observed fuel pressure. Pressure went above the the limit of 47psi ( according to Haynes) and shot the hose of the return line. Probably over 60psi. If this is the case, Hayne says to replace the Reguator.

I am asuming that the 47psi referances both the 1998 and before pressure range and the 1999 and later range. The book does not say.

Does this sound kosher? If so I am off the auto parts store to spend 65 bucks for a new regulator.


Thanks,
Ted

Recheck the FP specs I think 52 -59 sounds too high.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it seems to be running a little worse. @ 38psi and now the needle is jumping up and down rapidly about a pound. I found the mass air flow sensor unpluged... since last week probably, no real change when I plugged it in except for a wistling from the Belt area when I accelerate.

I checked the book again, it says 1999 and later 3.1 and 3.4...52 to 59psi.
I'll have to check a different referance to confirm those figures.

I figured out that the Brake and Anti-lock light were on because of croaded contacts on the abs fuse and relay. Gm decided to mount the fuse and relay box right on the edge of the engine compartment up by the hood. Right where water can pore right in. no seal or anyting to prevent this from happening....Go GM!

hello,
Still battling my car. I went to the dealer and they were quite helpful, they pinted me a check sheets on fuel pressure troubleshooting. Fuel pressure should be between 41 & 47. Im on the low end of that,maybe a little less 38psi. I should be good???
I blew out the lines with compressed air just incase of blockage. Pressure does not change when running or when I accelerate. If the pump wasnt $250 or so I would just replace it. I dont know if I am expecting an answer just venting I guess :banghead: . I guess ill do a once over before I take it in.

I should go back to driving the caprice daily and sell the monte.

If you take the vacuum hose off the regulator it should go to at least 50 psi, if not clogged filter, bad regulator or pump. It definitely should increase as you put a load on the engine.

The pressure does go up a few pounds when I pull of the vaccum to the regulator, from 38 to 42. and when I try to accelerate it will bounce between 41 and 45.

As long as there is 12 volts at the pump and no leaks or clogs nothing elce should effect the pressure??? I did replace the regulator already.
Trying to figure out a way to test at the tank.

Thanks,
Ted

Hi 426,
I was able to come up with a way to check fuel pressure at the tank. I took my old fuel filter and after washing out the gas, I dilled out the filter material and connected it to the output and found an adapter at the hardware to connect my fuel gauge.

Well anyway when I turned the key the pump turned off within a few seconds. Must be a safty feature if no pressure is detected at the injectors. After cycling the pump 3 times I recorded a reading of 75psi, so I think that the pump is good.

Im at a loss, I tinker a little this weekend and take it in on Monday.

Defeated... Car 1 Ted 0