Help with new spark plugs on 2000 expedition 5.4 triton

Hi
I need to replace spark plugs and those other things that are there instead of cables :)). I have never work with no cable plugs. I was wondering how difficult it would be. Is there anything I should know before getting to work?? What needs to be removed in order to get to the spark plugs and in what order?? Will I have to move the engine?? What spark plugs do you recommend?? Thank you

I recommend Original Equipment plugs Use Motorcraft. The plugs are easily replaced. You will need a 7mm socket, short extension and a ratchet. Unplug the wiring to the coil, remove the little bolt, pull coil out, then use a 5/8 inch plug socket and extension to get the plug out. The last one on the padssenger side is a little rough to get to. Other than that, it is an easy repair.

Thank you for help. Can you tell me whichcylinder is #2??

#2 is the second one back on the passenger side. Your cylinders are numbered 1-2-3-4 on the passenger side from front to back and 5-6-7-8 front to back on drivers side.

Thanks for all help. Job is done. I still can't believe that I've made it especially passanger side :). Driver side seems to be easier, but in fact I wouldn't be so sure about it. There is no hoses but a lot of other crap there. Anyway car runs like new. Looks like noone ever replaced spark plugs there (150K miles!!!). No wonder I had missfire. Thanks again.

Good job staying with it. You deserve the credit, and Thank you for using this forum.

Here is a good way I did it. I think I can change my Expedition spark plugs in less than an hour now. This method involves detaching the power connection near the firewall on the passenger side. It is well worth the 5 minutes extra it takes. Here are my verbatim instructions. If you want instruction with photos follow this link or the link at the bottom of this tutorial.

http://www.angelfire.com/sd/vmkrampitz/spark_plug_change.html


The procedures for replacing/changing spark plugs on the Ford (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=657)Expedition, Lincoln Navigator, & F-150 Triton.

I just replaced my spark plugs on my 1998 Ford (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=657)Expedition. It was much harder than I'm used to (I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee with the inline six, and I can change the plugs on that in about 10 minutes).
Anyways, I've outlined the procedures that I used. Don't rely on a store-bought repair manual as the instructions are way too vague.

Here are the instructions verbatim. If you want the instructions with photo examples just follow the link at the bottom.

Hope this helps,

V


I just finished up replacing the spark plugs on my 1998 Ford (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=657)Expedition with the 5.4 Triton V8. (This was a pain in the @ss; I owned a 1990 Ford Thunderbird and I thought those were horrible). Anyways, after searching the internet I found some very good tips on several site forums. I used these tips along with some additional steps that I thought would definitely help make the task less stressful. The additional steps may seem extensive, but they help make the task much easier, and like I said, LESS STRESSFUL!
First off, don't bother relying on a store-bought repair manual like the one I own. The instructions are so vague, they pretty much just tell you to remove the coil packs and remove/replace the plugs.
The best method involves using a foam pad (or thick padded carpet) and setting it over the radiator and top of the engine. You'll need a stool or chair to secure your footing while lying across the engine (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=543)bay on this.
You will need a good assortment of extentions and swivels in 1/4" & 3/8" drive if possible.
If done correctly, it should take between 1-2 hours.
First as usual, disconnect the neg. on the battery.

Lay the padding across the radiator/engine (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=543)bay.

When doing this job you'll end up looking kinda like this.....(I recommend using something much more stable than this little stool I used).

Remove the plastic cover (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=541)covering the throttle body. (Three 10mm bolts)

Remove power (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=301)connection terminal cover (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=541)on the passenger side near the battery (this pops off when you pull downward & out at the bottom of it)

Remove three 13mm nuts and the cables. (make sure you mark them so you put them back where they were). Next, remove the two 8mm bolts holding the entire assembly to the firewall. Pull away from the firewall. Now you will be able to have easier access to the #4 spark plug farthest back on passenger side. I feel that this is the hardest one to change.


Remove the three 8mm bolts & remove the plate that secures the power (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=301)steering reservoir in order to access the #5 spark plug.

Replace each spark plug one at a time. On the driver side you may need to remove the two 8mm bolts securing the fuel (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=693)rail. You may need to pull the fuel rail up and away slightly to clear the check valve and access the #6 spark plug. Make sure you blow away all debris before removing the fuel rail. You do not want anything falling into the manifold. This would be HORRIBLE! Also, only pull the fuel rail away as far as neccisary to access/remove the bolt securing the coil pack and the coil pack itself. Debris (or a dropped coil pack bolt)could possibly fall into the manifold through the injector ports! Again, this would be HORRIBLE!

Attach a small section of hose to reach the hard-to-reach areas. You need to blow out the spark plug holes BEFORE you remove the plugs to prevent debris from falling into the cylinders. And yes, this would be HORRIBLE!

Also, make sure you coat the spark plug threads with anti-seize, and coat the inside of the boots with dielectric grease. This will prevent corrosion, heat damage, and prevent the boots from sticking on the next replacement. Gap the plug to specs before installation.

After taking your time (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=694)and being patient, you will find yourself finishing up this job and feeling a great sense of accomplishment. Bolt all parts (http://www.ford-trucks.com/rx98192zju/kwldirect.php?kwid=517)back up to where they were, and re-check all of your connections to include connections to the coil packs, injectors, and also inspect surrounding vacuum hoses to see if they were accidently disconnected when moving them around to access the spark plugs (the PCV valve kept popping out when I did mine).

Hinesight is always 20/20, but I'm pretty sure I could do this again in under 1 hour. Remember, take your time, be patient, be careful, and take a breather if you need it!

Enjoy,
Vic

here's the link to my web page with accompanying photos:
http://www.angelfire.com/sd/vmkramp...lug_change.html (http://www.angelfire.com/sd/vmkramp...lug_change.html)

:iceslolan

Hey guys and gals...

Mister-V-Man: Thanks for the pictoral link on your post. That helps a lot! I know the first four plugs I replaced on my '97 5.4L Triton were a delight to work on. (Yes, that's sarcasm! ;)) I have yet to get at the back four.

You mentioned the fuel rail - are you saying that it's possible to move it out of the way a little bit without disconnecting it from the fuel line? (This is one of the main things that has kept me from tackling the last four plugs. It gets pretty tight back in there!)

Thanks again for your help!

riproaring,
yes, on my '98 5.4 all i had to do was remove the two bolts securing the fuel rail, pull up slightly on the fuel rail, and hold the fuel rail away from the coil pack while i removed the bolt securing the coil pack. i did not have to remove any fuel hoses. i also took this oppurtunity to wipe the injectors clean.

My 1998 Expedition is driving me nuts on trying to replace #4 plug. I read the suggestions to access and did remove the wiring system. Removed the coil but can't access the plug.

Using a few different length extensions, flex, and universal I was able to got to the plug but the socket just pops pops off when turned. Like it isn't seating on the plug enough to turn it. I have been using a magnetic sparck pluck socket that works well. I tried a regular 6 point deep well socket and it just popped off too.

I used a blow gun and extension tube to clear around the plug and using an inspection mirror, I could see down the head to the plug. It appears clear. But the socket still won't seat and turn it.

I've replaced 1 to 3 along with a coil on #3.

After 2 1/2 hours I had to give up. Any thoughts?

Spent another hour trying to get on the plug to turn it. No luck. Used a metric socket that allowed a bit more length. No good. Finally gave up. Installed a new coil and Expedition is running great. Guess it's just time to run it to the end now.

Triton uses a 9/16 or 14mm diameter spark socket. The sizes aren't the same but KD and SK make them. If using a 5/8 socket this could be your problem.
When changing the plugs on my 1997 5.4 I would have to loosen the fuel rail to get a socket on the back plugs. I think one of the two items mentioned will help you out.

Well here I am, 3 years later after my original post of trying to replace #4 spark plug. Still can't replace it. Found that the area around the plug is so filled with with corrosion, and I assume dirt, that the plug socket can't even reach the hex of the plug. Tried air and screw drivers to break through the build up to no avail. Finally devised a set up that I thought might do it. Used a hole saw from a kit that would just fit over the hex of the plug. Got a flexible shaft to use the set up a hex drive drill bit in the hole saw. Was able to get it into the corrosion and now I can't remove the hole saw. It is so imbedded in the corrosion that the drive came out of it when trying to remove it. So it looks like a head removal will be the only way out of this. Love the vehicle and it has performed great since I bought it but the engineering involved sure leaves a lot to be desired.

Well here I am, 3 years later after my original post of trying to replace #4 spark plug. Still can't replace it. Found that the area around the plug is so filled with with corrosion, and I assume dirt, that the plug socket can't even reach the hex of the plug. Tried air and screw drivers to break through the build up to no avail. Finally devised a set up that I thought might do it. Used a hole saw from a kit that would just fit over the hex of the plug. Got a flexible shaft to use the set up a hex drive drill bit in the hole saw. Was able to get it into the corrosion and now I can't remove the hole saw. It is so imbedded in the corrosion that the drive came out of it when trying to remove it. So it looks like a head removal will be the only way out of this. Love the vehicle and it has performed great since I bought it but the engineering involved sure leaves a lot to be desired.
The hole saw drive threads in try threading it in and pulling on the saw as its driving the saw it should come out. Try using a long small diameter drill mark the drill so you don't drill through the head.

Tried to use a hex drive in the hole saw adapter. Snapped the drive bit in the hole saw. Can't access the hole saw to try getting it out. Was trying to lightly drive the hole saw and remove it when moving. Wouldn't budge the slightest. Attempted to move the saw using a screwdriver that just fit in the drive hole. Wouldn't move. Believe before tearing down that I will fill the area with liquid wrench and see of the soaking breaks down the material that is in the hole.

Tried to use a hex drive in the hole saw adapter. Snapped the drive bit in the hole saw. Can't access the hole saw to try getting it out. Was trying to lightly drive the hole saw and remove it when moving. Wouldn't budge the slightest. Attempted to move the saw using a screwdriver that just fit in the drive hole. Wouldn't move. Believe before tearing down that I will fill the area with liquid wrench and see of the soaking breaks down the material that is in the hole.
Try drilling a hole in the top of the hole saw. Get a loaner tool from Advance or Auto Zone like this.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_8090.htm

Actually I was thinking of something of that nature. There is a small hole in the top where the drive rod (drill bit) fits and locks with a set screw. A medium size phillips fits the hole. I will fill the area with a penetrant and I plan to devise some sort of heavy threaded screw and since there is no room to use a slide hammer devise a lever to pull it out.

Actually I was thinking of something of that nature. There is a small hole in the top where the drive rod (drill bit) fits and locks with a set screw. A medium size phillips fits the hole. I will fill the area with a penetrant and I plan to devise some sort of heavy threaded screw and since there is no room to use a slide hammer devise a lever to pull it out.
If you can thread a zerk fitting into the hole you can use a grease gun this will create a lot of pressure up to 10,000 psi it should pop out the hole saw.

Got the hole saw out. Had to use an easy out to remove the threaded drive in the top of the hole saw. Once accomplished I picked up a 1/2"-20 4" long bolt. Got it into the hole saw threads and used it like a puller against the top of the spark plug to pull the hole saw. Hooray! Success. All this broke up the crud built up around the spark plug. Blew out the area with compressed air. (Hose attached to the blow gun to get in the hole). Used a long skinny flat blade screw driver to clean around the base of the plug. The plug socket in now on the spark plug. VERY tight so to try and help prevent stripping out the threads in the head I have soaked the hole with penetrating oil allowing it to sit over night. Will see if it comes loose tomorrow.
Overall feeling much better about the whole thing right now. Hoping tomorrow goes as well.

Unable to get the plug loose after a couple weeks of careful soaking and attempts to get some movement on the plug. Plug finally snapped at the hex so threads are still in the head. Time to tear down the engine.

Unable to get the plug loose after a couple weeks of careful soaking and attempts to get some movement on the plug. Plug finally snapped at the hex so threads are still in the head. Time to tear down the engine.


Are you able to fill an easy out drill bit flutes with grease to catch any derbris from the plug.. you are able to buy reverse drill bits and try to easy out the plug with the reverse drill bit or an easy out, but again fill the flutes with grease to capture as much debris as possible,then I would buy or rent a borescope, look down there and see if any debris is on top of the piston.. an electric "nice" borescope is $165 on Ebay, I just bought one. There are mini shop vac attachments small enough to get into the plug hole to get debris out.. another option is to drill it out.. a company called timesert that sells a kit to repair plug threads just like this.. on the vehicle. Always heavily grease the tap flutes to catch debris and always remember once you fix it to always use antiseize on all plugs threads or for that matter any steel bolt that goes into aluminum or vise versa or the two dis-simular metals can fuse together due to electrolosis. Good luck and I feel for ya! this would be less expensive than a new engine and if you do pull the head be sure to install timeserts in all of the plug holes.. I had to do this to my supercharged 03 Cobra. Again, good luck! The timesert set is just like a helicoil to repair plug threads.

Thanks for the ideas. I've looked at the Timeserts and believe they are the way to go. Waiting for a cam lock I ordered before beginning the job. I'll probably wait til after Christmas to start. I used to love getting into these things. Guess age is catching up with me. Now I dread even getting started. As for the antiseize.... That has been a regular thing for me for years. I have a few 8 oz containers on the shelf with more sitting in tool boxes etc. I use it for assembly of EVERYTHING. ;-)