'93 Lumina stalling everytime I brake...

For the past 2 - 3 months, my '93 Lumina has been stalling just about everytime I apply the brakes. At first it was just when I'd stop at a stop sign or stop at a red light. Then it started doing it when I would brake on the freeway. It also happens very frequently now, and by frequently I mean at least a dozen times anytime I'm driving somewhere. Now before it stalls, I can feel the engine/car kinda jerk, then the guage that measures RPMs goes crazy, then the check engine and oil lights comes on, and then the car stalls.

My dad has replaced 2 parts on the engine (I believe that's where they were, though I'm not sure which parts), he replaced the air filter and the fuel filter, put in fuel injection fluid/cleaner, and replaced 3 of the 6 spark plugs (the other 3 still need to be changed).

Any idea what could be wrong? Should I take it to a mechanic, or continue to let my dad play Mr. Fix-It? I'm just growing tired of him wasting money on parts when the problem still seems to persist.

-Danielle

At first I wanted to say torque convertor lockup but you generally would see it stalling hard when you try to put it in gear after re-starting it...and the engine bucking or shuddering and fighting the brakes just as you come to a stop...

But the way you describe it, sounds like it dies right when you step on the brake, not just as it come to a full stop? If so I'd suspect a major vacuum leak, possibly involving the brake booster circuit, or a bad Idle Air Control (IAC) motor...

Any problems with cold start stalling, rough idle or stiff brake pedal?

PS a sticking EGR valve could do this too...I assume you have no check engine light showing?

At first I wanted to say torque convertor lockup but you generally would see it stalling hard when you try to put it in gear after re-starting it...and the engine bucking or shuddering and fighting the brakes just as you come to a stop...

But the way you describe it, sounds like it dies right when you step on the brake, not just as it come to a full stop? If so I'd suspect a major vacuum leak, possibly involving the brake booster circuit, or a bad Idle Air Control (IAC) motor...

Any problems with cold start stalling, rough idle or stiff brake pedal?
That is correct, it's not only when I come to a complete stop, it's just about anytime the brakes are applied. It's kind of scary because it has began to stall on me while I'm driving on the highway.

I believe my dad changed the IAC. I honestly don't know much about cars, which is why I turned here.

The brake pedal has always been somewhat stiff, but I attribute that to the car being over 10 years old, though I may be wrong. As for cold start stalling and rough idle, I have no idea what either of those mean.

PS a sticking EGR valve could do this too...I assume you have no check engine light showing?
Actually, every single time it stalls, the check engine light comes on along with the oil light. The check engine light will often come on right before it stalls.

Actually, every single time it stalls, the check engine light comes on along with the oil light. The check engine light will often come on right before it stalls.

My car (95' jetta III GL) is just in the same situation. it starts fine, it runs fine in P. it runs fine when I turn the AC on. But it just stalls if in any gear with brake. it seems to run fine if I release the brake fast enough after I move the tansmission in gear (only test in a short distance). But it struggles and finally stalls when I push the brake and make it a full stop. The engine check, engine oil check and battery lights turn on every time when it stalls. Is the TCC bad? Any other possibility? How much will it cost to fix the problem? Thanks.

Actually, every single time it stalls, the check engine light comes on along with the oil light. The check engine light will often come on right before it stalls.

You know, I'm not approaching this the right way.

Pushing/holding the brake doesn't upset the idle when the car is not moving, right?

Does this problem not occur until you get some distance from where you started the car cold, like from home first thing in the day? Maybe doesn't happen until you've been driving for ten minutes or so?

If you have only been starting and stopping at lower speed in traffic it behaves, only after rolling at 40+ mph for a little while then hitting the brakes it stalls?

If you agree with all this, chances are you are having TCC isssues...it just may have not progressed to the point where it won't let you get back into gear after a restart....

Have any stored codes been retrieved from the car's computer to see what it thinks is happening? That may just solve the mystery. If they relate to TCC lockup, that nails it.

My car (95' jetta III GL) is just in the same situation. it starts fine, it runs fine in P. it runs fine when I turn the AC on. But it just stalls if in any gear with brake. it seems to run fine if I release the brake fast enough after I move the tansmission in gear (only test in a short distance). But it struggles and finally stalls when I push the brake and make it a full stop. The engine check, engine oil check and battery lights turn on every time when it stalls. Is the TCC bad? Any other possibility? How much will it cost to fix the problem? Thanks.

Hard to get specific info about a VW on a Chevy Lumina forum....

But for what it's worth, I don't remember EVER seeing a TCC issue in a VW.

The same basic traits apply, though.

If it occurs with a cold engine, or even when starting and stopping in slow traffic, this isn't your problem. The TCC needs a fully warmed up motor to operate, and the TCC doesn't lock until the car is cruising in high gear at 40+mph or so...so the problem will happen when slowing after a period of lightly loaded cruising, not constantly at every stop....

Hard to get specific info about a VW on a Chevy Lumina forum....

But for what it's worth, I don't remember EVER seeing a TCC issue in a VW.

The same basic traits apply, though.

If it occurs with a cold engine, or even when starting and stopping in slow traffic, this isn't your problem. The TCC needs a fully warmed up motor to operate, and the TCC doesn't lock until the car is cruising in high gear at 40+mph or so...so the problem will happen when slowing after a period of lightly loaded cruising, not constantly at every stop....

Thank you jeffcoslacker. Then what most likely caused the problem? By the way I will post a new one in the VW forum.

You know, I'm not approaching this the right way.

Pushing/holding the brake doesn't upset the idle when the car is not moving, right?

Does this problem not occur until you get some distance from where you started the car cold, like from home first thing in the day? Maybe doesn't happen until you've been driving for ten minutes or so?

If you have only been starting and stopping at lower speed in traffic it behaves, only after rolling at 40+ mph for a little while then hitting the brakes it stalls?

If you agree with all this, chances are you are having TCC isssues...it just may have not progressed to the point where it won't let you get back into gear after a restart....

Have any stored codes been retrieved from the car's computer to see what it thinks is happening? That may just solve the mystery. If they relate to TCC lockup, that nails it.
It's not only when it's not moving, but as I'm braking to slow down. I generally happens a little after I leave home, and then several times after that, sometimes 12+ times a day. It's usually worst in slow traffic, and when I come to a complete stop. And when it stalls, the steering wheel locks up and I have to either put it in neutral or park before starting it again.

Basically though I agree with almost everything you've said so far. i'm not exactly sure what the TCC is or what it does, but I'm about to do a little research. Is it expensive to repair/replace?

It's not only when it's not moving, but as I'm braking to slow down. I generally happens a little after I leave home, and then several times after that, sometimes 12+ times a day. It's usually worst in slow traffic, and when I come to a complete stop. And when it stalls, the steering wheel locks up and I have to either put it in neutral or park before starting it again.

Basically though I agree with almost everything you've said so far. i'm not exactly sure what the TCC is or what it does, but I'm about to do a little research. Is it expensive to repair/replace?

What I meant was, if you go out there right now and start the motor and sit there in park and then put your foot on the brake, will it stumble or die? Knowing that would be a huge step towards figuring it out.

Also you seem to be saying it will occur right away after starting the car for the first time of the day, like within a few blocks of where you started?

This is important to figuring if the TCC is involved or if we can forget about that.

But I'm beginning to suspect it's not. You said it's bad in slow traffic. I assume this would mean low speeds, starting and stopping without ever getting above 20-30 mph? The TCC is inactive in that situation...that would rule it out.

OK. So if you agree with the above, then try this. Go out to the car, DON'T start the motor. Pump the brake pedal about 25 times, then hold the pedal down firmly. While holding, start the motor.

I want to know:

Did the pedal drop/soften when the motor started, and

Did the idle do anything strange when it started up, or after letting go of the pedal?

What I meant was, if you go out there right now and start the motor and sit there in park and then put your foot on the brake, will it stumble or die? Knowing that would be a huge step towards figuring it out.

Also you seem to be saying it will occur right away after starting the car for the first time of the day, like within a few blocks of where you started?

This is important to figuring if the TCC is involved or if we can forget about that.

But I'm beginning to suspect it's not. You said it's bad in slow traffic. I assume this would mean low speeds, starting and stopping without ever getting above 20-30 mph? The TCC is inactive in that situation...that would rule it out.

OK. So if you agree with the above, then try this. Go out to the car, DON'T start the motor. Pump the brake pedal about 25 times, then hold the pedal down firmly. While holding, start the motor.

I want to know:

Did the pedal drop/soften when the motor started, and

Did the idle do anything strange when it started up, or after letting go of the pedal?
Sorry it's been awhile. I haven't been able to try/check what you said. I've been really busy with work and school, but I'll get back to you as soon as I can.

it may be your mass air flow senor i had same problem

Just went through the same thing with my '91 Lumina. Turned out all I needed was a new set of spark plug wires. Fire was jumping between wires. Car would stall just about every time I braked or was almost down to idle speed when slowing down. Car seemed to be OK at higher speeds but would idle irradically and stall at braking. Check spark plug wires for white spots that indicate fire jumping from wire to wire. This causes plugs to fire when they are not supposed to. Changed wires on my lumina and it purrs like a kitten and has not cut off since.

I have a 1996 Chevy Lumina, And i had the exact same problem! The car would stall at stoplights when i applied the brake. I went to Autozone, bought a $70 Power Brake booster, and installed it, easy to replace, just unbolt the front/top engine mounts, and put a floor jack under the tranny, and gently raise it up, to move the engine forward for the clearance to remove and replace the booster, (Be careful, not to damage tranny pan, while raising the engine, use large thin block of wood between jack, and tranny pan.) After the install it ran like brand new.

I think the bad Booster was causing a vacuum leak, and causing the engine to die.

ITS YOUR ECU-MY BUICK WAS THE EXACT SAME, CHANGED LOTS OF STUFF, TURNED OUT IT WAS A 50 \\dollar ecu

tHE Giveaway for that being the problem (ecu) is the crazy guages and the oil light coming on, ( i assume the check engine light flashed randonly and when it does the car kinda almost stalls right? or sometimes does stall) and the problem will get worse quickly until the car wont run at all anymore. what is happening is EXACTly the same as happened to. me, and everyone posted pretty much the same responses, and it was the ecu. (its all in the details, ie. the oil light and guages have nothing to do with anything else that would be causing the problem.) ECU all the way.
Jay in canada

BUMP!

I am having this issue with my 1992 Lumina 3.1.

Although I have had the vehicle stall while on the highway, it will also stall at low speed so I think that rules out the TCC problem.

Doing what jeffcoslacker suggested with the brakes I came up with the following:

After pumping up the pedal, holding it and starting the vehicle, the idle was very low and stumbling.

When I let go of the pedal, the idle spiked up, fluctuated a couple times and then smoothed out.

What does this tell you, and where should I go from here?

Disconnect the pb vacuum hose and plug it see how it runs, don't drive it of course.

Disconnect the pb vacuum hose and plug it see how it runs, don't drive it of course.

You're saying unplug the brake booster hose and see how it runs, right? I don't know if this will tell me anything since it will sit in the driveway and idle with no problem right now...

Bump? All the helpers seemed to have disappeared for this thread...

This one acts like a short in the system under the dash with the tach going crazy at the beginning of the death throes. "then the guage that measures RPMs goes crazy"

BUMP!

I am having this issue with my 1992 Lumina 3.1.

Although I have had the vehicle stall while on the highway, it will also stall at low speed so I think that rules out the TCC problem.

Doing what jeffcoslacker suggested with the brakes I came up with the following:

After pumping up the pedal, holding it and starting the vehicle, the idle was very low and stumbling.

When I let go of the pedal, the idle spiked up, fluctuated a couple times and then smoothed out.

What does this tell you, and where should I go from here?

Bump! Where'd all the helpers go??

You really should drive the vehicle with a scanneer connected.

wow old thread. check for vacuum leak in the brake booster. Clamp shut the long 5/8" (or so) rubber line going from the intake manifold the the brake booster. You're brakes will be 'manual' so be careful or use emergency brake, but go 10 mph in an empty parking lot and apply brakes. If brake booster is bad then it won't cut out when you brake.

wow old thread. check for vacuum leak in the brake booster. Clamp shut the long 5/8" (or so) rubber line going from the intake manifold the the brake booster. You're brakes will be 'manual' so be careful or use emergency brake, but go 10 mph in an empty parking lot and apply brakes. If brake booster is bad then it won't cut out when you brake.

So you're saying get to an open parking lot, then clamp the vac line between the intake manifold and booster. Then travel slow and apply the brakes. What do you mean by "If brake booster is bad then it won't cut out when you brake"? Are you saying if I apply the brakes and the motor starts to stall out then the booster is OK? And if the motor stalls out then the booster is bad?

Just get somewhere so you won't crash into anything due to loss of power assist brakes.

Clamp the line so the brake booster can't get vacuum from the engine .. or disconnect the hose at the booster, fold the hose in half and maybe gently clamp it with vicegrips or just plug the end of the hose.

Try out the brakes at a low speed. If you have a bad brake booster, then the engine won't cut out when you apply brakes.

With a bad booster, when you press on the brake, you create a huge vacuum leak that affects the fuel/air ratio, causing stalls.