okay maybe you guys can help me i have a 93 accord lx and the speedo doest work and the mil says my vss is faulty so i replaced it and still the same problem so i tried honda they gave me the shop manual to read and troubleshoot and im still in the same boat with no paddle help please

check for voltage to 1. the ecu (it should be pulsing when the car is moving) and 2. to the cluster

would my vss be causing my tranny to shift erratic too

define erratic... a tranny uses pressure more than anything, but im not tranny guy.. so dont quote me, they give me the heeby geebys...

ok i figured out my erattic shifting it was the timing retarded too much so i advanced it a little more and the problem went away but i still have to check my voltage to the ecu for my vss the little things that matter the most

if the speedometer does not work. it maybe an Alternator SP fuse or your VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor). If your unit is an old one (1999-below) look for the 2p connector under dash and use a female 2p connector to short it. then turn the ignition switch to on. look for the MIL or check engine code (number of blinks) then reply to me the number of blinks.

it says code 17 vss. and vss has power and resistance all i need to do is check power to my ecm

but is it within spec? if its not sending enough voltage or too much votage back to the ECU then it still could be bad

yeah i used this program called on demand 5 it tells u how to troubleshoot and labor rates etc.. shop edition im just real lazy and got alot going on to tear my floorboard apart to get to my ecm

ok heres the new problem i got troubleshooting papers from honda and they said to jack the car up and backprobe the orange wire on my vss and turn the wheel and the voltmeter should be pulsing from 0 to 12v and it doesnt do that so it said to replace vss but i already replaced it twice and the number 1 fuse isnt blown so is it possible to get to bad vss's from star auto parts and will the third time be the charm..

are you having a friend turn the wheel while you back probe? is the key set to the on position? have a friend turn the wheel as fast as he can while the key is "on". i dont think an power will be coming from it if the key is off

yeah i had the key on and turning the wheel

ok hers my next question if the vss circuit had a short wouldnt it blow the #1 fuse cause if so my #1 fuse isnt blowing.. this ones for you blur

HELP BLUR I HAVE A PROB WHEN I WENT TO AUTOZONE.COM AND LOOKED UP MY VSS IT GAVE ME TWO AND I CHECKED AND MY CAR HAS BOTH OF THEM SO WHAT IF I HAVE BEEN REPLACING THE WRONG ONE THE WHOLE TIME PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INSIGHT I WILL POST A LINK SO YOU CAN SEE AND EXPLAIN TO ME WHAT THE OTHER SENSOR IS COULD IT POSSIBLY BE THE WHEEL SENSOR:banghead:



http://www.autozone.com/N,313539/initialAction,partTypeResultSet/initialN,15900430/shopping/vehicleSelect4.htm

got both huh? well... the first one you replaced obviously should be fine now... test the other one, if its faulty, then replace it and chaulk it up as a lesson learned..

how would i check the second one

it should say in a FSM

okay i checked my fsm it says those are countershaft speed sensors and mainshaft speed sensorswould that have anything to do with my prob??

alright im back to square one i purchased a new speed sensor and the speedo still does not work and i checked for continuity on ground and voltage on yellow and black everything is like the fsm says but when the fsm says that if the speed sensor does not cause the orange wire to pulse on my multimeter then replace the sensor but i already replaced it 3 times and again im at square one and do not like this problem :banghead: blur can you please enlighten me because im ready to take it to the shop tommorow and get raped at the mercy of the ase certified mechanics im running out of options here :mad:

umm.. hmm.... bring lots of lube.... im out of ideas

ok im back after some rather extensive testing ive determined that the black wire and the yellow wire are crossed some where behind the dashboard because i put my continuity tester on the black wire and the yellow wire and they both or connected so i disconnected the harness where it goes to the firewall and checked on the firewall side to see how far back they are crossed aka shorted and they are fine in the engine bay so now i have to rip the dash apart to get to the harness on the back of it and find the short and i know it is a short because when i had my tester connected and started pulling on the harness then all of a sudden they were not crossed anymore so yeah i managed to save me some money but whenever you say dashboard removal in the same sentence your thinking dam thats gna take all day so anyway blur this ones for you man and i thank you for all your help and its funny how we met but any other advice or tricks or any idea on how long it would take to remove my dashboard would greatly be appreciated :confused:

hahaha.. bring lots of beer and plan on a full day of cursing and throwing tools... when i had my heater core replaced you need to pull the dash... i payed a local machanic 500 to do it and i even supplied the heater core... and when i got it back he swore to never charge that little in labor again....

well im back and i got the problem resolved it turns out that the water proof connection that connects to the vss was rather corroded and was interupting the signal but replaced it and now my speedo works and my tranny no longer shifts erratically anymoreso i ended up looking past the small things and in turn it ended up costing me 186 dollars to fix

well im back and i got the problem resolved it turns out that the water proof connection that connects to the vss was rather corroded and was interupting the signal but replaced it and now my speedo works and my tranny no longer shifts erratically anymore so i ended up looking past the small things and in turn it ended up costing me 186 dollars to fix

Good job, glad to hear it