one of my newest projects. Putting a modified 22R engine in a 1969 Toyota Corona. But just for the fun of it, I had a bank of 36mm CV carbs off of a 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100 that I mounted to it. Cut up a stock 22R intake, made a remote t-stat for it, ported the flanges and whatnot. Should be interesting.

Not running yet....but should be driving it within a couple weeks. Just waiting on parts right now

I've never done bike carbs on a car engine before, but always wanted to. I know its been done before, but am curious what the jetting details, and drivability details will be like. Will post the results

Some bad pics:

http://home.comcast.net/%7Ezrxturbo/Corona/corona-car1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ezrxturbo/Corona/corona-next1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/%7Ezrxturbo/Corona/corona-porting1.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/%7Ezrxturbo/Corona/corona-tstatdone4.jpg

Very cool!

Honda started putting bike carbs on cars in the 60s, and didn't stop until the late 90s.
My '89 Prelude has a pair of bike carbs on it, and they work surprisingly well, certainly one of the smoothest carberated engines Iv driven, even if its lacking in peak power numbers.


All going well your little Toyota should be very drivable, with fantastic throttle response.

That looks great!!
I put a bike carb (28mm Keihen from a Honda XR 185) on a single cylinder tractor engine with excellent results.

I have also messed with bike carbs on snowmobiles, too.

I have found so long as the cylinder displacement and air flow is not too much lower than the bike engine, you will be fine. If you end up putting simply HUGE carbs on a relatively small engine, you may lose some vacuum signal at full throttle, which may reduce power somewhat.

The 22R is a remarkable little engine. Circle trackers have used them with great success in the modified mini stock classes. The hot number for these guys is huge over bore. 0.100 (2.5MM) to be exact. The block is more than capable of accepting the enormous overbore without distress.

The heads are only reasonably adequate. They will flow in the region of 180 CFM after knowledgeable port work. The low and mid lift flow can be made entirely adequate. (Operative word is Knowledgeable.) The stock manifold is a DOG! So your mod is moving in the right direction. These little cars were primarily grocery getters and proved to be far more than adequate for the purpose. The engine is amazingly durable and in normal service will last two years beyond the day hell freezes over. You can turn them up to 8000 with the stock rods and crank.

Your CV carbs will work well on the little Yota. The pictures indicate that you have put the carbs pretty close to the flange. That will work OK but the arrangement favors high RPM work. Keep in mind that the Kaw is designed as a much more spirited revver than the Toyota.For regular street tooting, you will do well to extend the distance from the carb venturi to the valve stem outward to about 13 inches more or less. Do by all means rig up some kind of air filters so that you wont kill a nice little engine.

The biggest problem with the 22R is that you can not get a high enough compression ratio. The hemi head wont let you change it much. The only alternative is pistons with a domed top.

Best of luck.
Gene

Your CV carbs will work well on the little Yota. The pictures indicate that you have put the carbs pretty close to the flange. That will work OK but the arrangement favors high RPM work. Keep in mind that the Kaw is designed as a much more spirited revver than the Toyota.
not so true with the ZRX. Although it does rev to 10.5K RPM's, its got a buttload of torque right off of idle.

I've never followed the "well known theories" about what gives you what. Not saying your suggestion isn't correct, but whether it is or not, doesn't really quantify the AMOUNT of difference. I think it will be insignificant, if negative at all, mainly due to the CV's offer very effective low RPM fueling

One other side note, I am planning on turbo'ing this engine eventually (I haven't convinced the owner yet that he must let me turbo it, but he'll eventually succumb to my constant nagging :D ).....and once a turbo is hanging off of it, the length of the intake won't matter at all IMO

a small update about the project....been waiting on a oil pan, was a bit of a challenge to get, but finally got it. So hopefully this week, the engine will be mounted. Still have lots of stuff to take care of, but forward motion is about to happen, which is good

I was just back in the shop throwing heads and manifolds around. (our shop is a flow bench and flow analytical business) I realized that I'd had a serious senior moment. All the stuff I wrote above applies to a 3TC Toyota not to a 22R. They're whole different animals. The 3TC is a cam in block 8 valve little beastie. Whereas the 22R is a much bigger SOHC type.The 22RE is a 16 valve job. All of them were used in Corrollas at one time or another.

The 22R 8 valve is also used in circle track with some success.

The longer intake runner recommendation is still good for the 22R. The reason is that standing waves in the inlet tract tend to shift torque curves. Shorter tracts augment output at high revs, longer tracts boost low and/or mid range output. You are nearly, but not entirely, correct that a turbo will negate some of the waveform induction effect. Matter of fact you may be able to graft on a turbo from a 86 -88 22RTEC and that'll fix the go fast yearning.

Shame on me for confusing different engines. I'm going to my room now.

the intake runner length will only really make a difference when the engine's off boost, it makes little to no difference when on boost.

that's a pretty little engine there. what are you planning for exhaust? quiet or loud? can't wait to see the finished product with pics/vids.

how the hell do you find time for all these projects? i can barely find time for sleep, although i'm taking a course this summer and working, and i've got my second year of university starting this september. You always seem to have some kind of a project going.

also, did you ever finish off that last turbo bike you were doing? i'd love to hear that thing go.

this one is at work....all the projects I usually post about are at home. Granted, this one will eat into my private time, I'm sure.....its not "officially" on the books at work....not completely anyway (the owner hasn't figured out the whole story yet :D )

The turbo I was planning on using will be a quasi variable vane setup of my own design. It'll probably boost right from idle, hense why I suggested it won't matter much.

wait til you see my new bike project! I'll post about it when I get it running.....which will hopefully be in a couple weeks

oh yah, it has a long-primary 4-into-1 aftermarket header. I'll be using motorcycle exhaust cans, just to continue the bike theme. Not too loud, but definitely "audible".

But if I turbo it, it'll be redone so it doesn't matter much