After I started my 94 Trooper LS the other day, the O2, fuel, brake, and charging lights stayed on. Would anyone know what this indicates? I have the Chilton's manual, but can't find anything in there about this condition.

It seems to run fine, but I didn't drive it that day, only to Autozone the next day (about a mile) to get the codes read. Was told they can only read 1996 and newer.

The CEL has lit occasionally, but only a few times over the past couple of years, and nothing consistent. Usually happens at highway speed but goes off after slowing to 30 MPH or so.

It still starts and runs fine, in fact, much quieter. I have had a tapping in the engine for a couple of years, and that has stopped (so far) since this happened. In fact, the morning this happened, the engine started very quickly. It usually cranks several rounds before kicking off.

I have tried to reset the ECM by removing the ECM fuse one time, then disconnecting the negative battery cable for about 45 minutes another time, but the condition still exists.

I appreciate any help anyone could give...

After I started my 94 Trooper LS the other day, the O2, fuel, brake, and charging lights stayed on. Would anyone know what this indicates? it is the classic signal that something is amiss in the *charging* system, probably the alternator is going south, it could be the battery, it could be the wiring/connectors/grounds (check in reverse order) I have the Chilton's manual, but can't find anything in there about this condition.it's no where, freaks people out the first time, or two... it won't set a CEL. a low-charging charge system can also affect the automatic transmission as well as the fuel pump, btw.

//bc

Thanks bc,

I took it to Autozone to check the charging system. Battery OK. Measured only 11 amps from alternator (still in vehicle). Guy testing said it should be at least 60 amps, unsure about this specific alternator. Couldn't find the spec's in Chilton's.

He suggested it could be a grounding or connection problem. It seemed that the testing equipment told him that, but may have been from his previous experience, don't know.

Anyway, trying to check wiring first, but can't even see connection. Barely can see the alternator, with power steering on top, chassis underneath (actually maybe 4x4 transfer case, unsure of terminology), engine to one side, and battery to the other. I thought it was bad in my '88 Civic! Any suggestion how to go about getting at it?

Thanks for your help.

-km

...how to go about getting at it... if you're talking about getting to the alternator -- remove the wheel and then as much of that skirt as necessary,(just work the skirt over the grommet rather than trying to remove the grommet which will very often break). a mirror might help. be aware though, that it is *very* hard to deal with the alt wiring with the alt all installed. if you are just checking, a mirror and flashlight might come in handy.

as to the alt check they did. it's hard to know what they did, or how he came to his conclusion. but it is definitely possible it's the grounds or the wiring. however, it is still possible (even probable) that it is the alternator. usually, you want to get an 'under load' test, even if the alternator is out you can get such a bench test.

but -- be aware that people who put in rebuilt alternators from the bigboxparts stores regret it, often yare doa or very soon after. you're best bet imo is to get a unit rebuilt by bosch, which can be had from a good independent parts store. some have had luck with ones from napa.



//bc

Thanks again.

I had already figured out the wheel well access since I asked the question, but haven't actually tried yet (another day). I should have thought of that first, since that's what I had to do on the '88 Civic. And...

I have put at least 4 or 5 rebuilts from Advance Auto Parts on that Civic, so I think your advice is probably correct. I will investigate my options.

As for the Autozone test, they supposedly put a "load" with the tester while the engine is running. But, they have said previously that the test with the alternator out of the vehicle is more dependable. Just might feel obligated to buy their rebuilt if I have them do that.

P.S. - I enjoyed your tagline... someone else having the challenges is much better, but then they would also have all the cool new tools.

Do not buy an alternator from Autozone, I'm telling you now, you'll be replacing it within a few days or a few weeks. You need to get a Bosch, Napa, or oem Isuzu - and expect to pay around $175+

These Isuzu's will eat up most rebuilts within short matter.