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2001 Isuzu Trooper Transmission NIGHTMARE "Thread 2"


Another_Drummer
07-13-2007, 10:54 AM
Ok, so the transmission shop just called and told me that the transmisson is fine. Supposedly the alternator is ok, and new battery.

He's telling me that it's something between the alternator and the transmission....basically something in the wiring, that could need a new wiring harness.

I'm really wondering what this is going to cost me. Rental car for this whole time is almost $1K. Jeez.....

Any suggestions?

Ramblin Fever
07-13-2007, 11:46 AM
The GM 4L30-E Tranny is a very very delicate operation; if it was not rebuilt correctly or thoroughly, you will continue to have issues.

Can you tell us the reason behind the previous rebuild?? THis may have something to do with it's current issues, if it was not rebuilt correctly.

Also, has someone double checked the ATF level?

Another_Drummer
07-13-2007, 12:40 PM
Thanks man! I just typed it all out, and submitted it, and the website cleared the whole thing. Now I need to try again.

Ok. The transmission was doing so fluttering a few years back and making what seemed to be a circular-type grinding (it would make the noise between 35 and 45 mph....would do it about every 5 seconds between those gears). And beyond that, it would shake an rattle my dashboard going into overdrive. I took it to a transmission shop and they said that it was a wonder how the car was even driving. So they 'fixed' after a week. It was working great after that for a while, then I started hearing that noise again, and started to feel the fluttering a few months later again. I took it back, and they overhauled it again, taking 3 weeks to do it. After fighting with them fist and foot, they decided to fix it for me, and keep it off the books since I had to pay so much for a rental car. Since it was off the books, there was no paperwork given, no records....and you can see where this is going....they had "no memory" of it when I started having the same issues again.

So i took it to ANOTHER shop. He said that the magnet looked like a Chia Pet, there was so much metal. So they redid the entire transmission, keeping only the metal casing as original. They changed sensors, solenoids (which they said wasn't replaced the first time), and everything. Everything inside the transmission is new. I drove it off and it worked great! That night, I was driving it very conservatively, and it happened again. It started to putter as if it was trying to die. So I took it back to that shop and they pulled the transmission again. Nothing was wrong. They did test after test and could find nothing wrong with the transmission. They did an electric test and replaced solenoids, sensors, and said that the electrical was spiking, so they thought it may be the alternator. Before they were going to do that, they put in a new battery and said that the electric surge had subsided and was normal again...not the alternator. So they worked on it some more and test drove it...the same issues occur. Now they're telling me that it's an electrical issue between the alternator and the transmission, quite possible the wiring harness, and that I need to take it to an electronics specialist.

Here's what happens. When I try to start driving in D...it takes a while for the car to even do anything, and acts like it's in neutral. After aggressive acceleration, it finally kicks in. However, when I do it manually from L, it works just fine. Manually shifting has a hesitation when shifting into 2. 3 and D work fine. Once I'm in D, the car works great. When I slow down to turn the downshift is fine, and once I start accelerating again, it seems to be fine. Just starting off in D, and the hesitation from L to 2. Also, I tried to start off in 2 to see what happens...it does the same thing as if I were starting off in D from a stand still.

Does this make any sense at all?:screwy:

trooperbc
07-13-2007, 03:34 PM
So they worked on it some more and test drove it...the same issues occur. Now they're telling me that it's an electrical issue between the alternator and the transmission, quite possible the wiring harness, and that I need to take it to an electronics specialist.
well maybe that is what you are going to have to do, or continue to somehow diagnose things. actually the last guys are on the right track because the symptoms indicate that you are going into limp mode or backup mode which the trans computer does to protect itself from especially electrical abnormalities which most often can be traced to the charging system especially the alternator, but also wiring.

Here's what happens. When I try to start driving in D...it takes a while for the car to even do anything, and acts like it's in neutral. After aggressive acceleration, it finally kicks in. However, when I do it manually from L, it works just fine. Manually shifting has a hesitation when shifting into 2. 3 and D work fine. Once I'm in D, the car works great. When I slow down to turn the downshift is fine, and once I start accelerating again, it seems to be fine. Just starting off in D, and the hesitation from L to 2. Also, I tried to start off in 2 to see what happens...it does the same thing as if I were starting off in D from a stand still. all this is the limp or backup mode thing. it's not that you are in neutral, it is that it is trying to start off in 3 third. in limp mode, you should manually shift and it goes like this

gear selected: D 4 equals (Fourth)
Manual 3 4 = (Fourth)
Manual 2 3 = (Third)
Manual L 1 = (First)
R Reverse

so that part is working correctly. and since it is, it more than likely indicates that the hydraulic stuff is working ok, but the problem is the electrical/electronics.

and after *definitely* making sure the charging system components are functioning as they shoud and that the alternator is spitting out volts >9v and <16, the next logical step is to look at the wiring, and that will require measurements at the pcm etc.

i'm not sure whether an 'electrical specialist' will do this for you or not. but it is labor intensive so $ intensive too. i guess call around and make a judgment as to their competence.

the only thing is, is that 'flutter' symptom still current?

//bc

Another_Drummer
07-13-2007, 03:51 PM
Hey man,

Thanks for the reply!

The fluttering is gone, and the shaking is gone as well. I called an Electronics Specialist in Plano, TX that said he may know what's wrong with it, since they get this same issue in a lot of Chevy's. Some kind of sensor within the electrical system. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping he can find it. If he does, then I may consider keeping this Trooper and start doing some fix-ups. It's been great, except for this tranny issue. Well, and going out of alignment really easily too.

Thanks for your response(s). I'll post back and let you know what the specialist says about the electric. At this point, it just seems more like process of elimination and narrowing it down.

fourwd1
08-10-2007, 02:42 PM
A common cause of "transmission problems" on Troopers w/the 4L30E is actually the switch mounted on the shifter linkage.
It tells the tranny ECM what gear is selected, and when they go bad you will get all kinds of shifting problems. One clue this is the problem is if the gear indicator lights on the dash are wrong or erratic.
GM vehicles withe the 4L60E tranny have a similar switch and similar problems.

I had to replace the one on my 2000 Trooper last spring. Takes about 1/2 hour to do.

trooperbc
08-11-2007, 12:19 AM
Hey man,

Thanks for the reply!

The fluttering is gone, and the shaking is gone as well. I called an Electronics Specialist in Plano, TX that said he may know what's wrong with it, since they get this same issue in a lot of Chevy's. Some kind of sensor within the electrical system. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping he can find it. If he does, then I may consider keeping this Trooper and start doing some fix-ups. It's been great, except for this tranny issue. Well, and going out of alignment really easily too.

Thanks for your response(s). I'll post back and let you know what the specialist says about the electric. At this point, it just seems more like process of elimination and narrowing it down.

hey Another... you still around ? what ever happened with this? was the guy right about it being "some kind of sensor ...."?

//bc

Another_Drummer
08-15-2007, 06:55 PM
Yes, I am. Sorry.

The nightmare continues.

My car is at the electronics specialist...they're looking through it all.

As it stands now, it will be the computer, or the wiring harness.

Here's the kicker...they have to test the computer OUTSIDE of the vehicle, so they shipped it to 'a specialty testing facility' who is able to do this. Now, they're saying that they can't test just the module...apparently, Isuzu's PCM Module's are that effing unique. I'm still blowing money, and this car isn't worth it anymore, but I have no choice.

Bottom line...I'll NEVER...EVER buy an Isuzu again. This thing has been more of a headache than it's worth.

I'll let you know what i find out about the module. Until then, it's more f*cking rental car fees...and the electronics specialist pointing the finger at Eagle Transmission, and Eagle Transmission is pointing at the electronics system. I don't think anyone really knows anymore....seriously. As soon as this thing is paid off...I'm going to do a neat little science experiment with it.

120,000 miles, and this sh*t. I wasn't lying...I'll sell it to you for the payoff.

lonezuk
08-21-2007, 06:06 PM
My 99 Trooper all of a sudden started having shifting problems and acted like some of the transmission positions were not available.

It turned out to be the electronic shift module the connects the transmission to the floor shifter.

This module can be rotated for "fine" positioning of the shift locations.

Purchased this GM/Isuzu module and installed it myself, cost over $125 for the part.

It took a few times to get this right, this happened kust after it hit the 100K mark and a long trip through the mountain in old mexico when quick down shifts were required for steep down hill grades.

Another_Drummer
08-21-2007, 06:20 PM
:banghead: "Would the real auto mechanic please stand up, please stand up, please stand up":banghead: (sing it like Eminem to get the full effect)

You're not going to believe this sh*t!!!


OK......

This has been the most exciting experience of my life (insert sarcasm)
SO...after the one place says that they can't test the PCM Module. I drive my computer to an Isuzu dealership here in Dallas called Clay Cooley Isuzu (this place is like a coupon booth in the middle of the fair ground...SUCKS!)...spoke with Mr. Powers. My fiance calls and talks to him...she asks specifically, "Can you test the PCM Module?" He responds..."Yes". She clarifies, "Can you test the PCM Module without the car being there....just the module?" He says, "Yes we can do that."

So she tells me, and well...she's a woman...I'm sure she didn't ask the right questions. So I call up there...asked the same questions...he sarcastically said, "Yes we can test the PCM Module for this vehicle WITHOUT the car...we have the adapter that can test the module alone." SCORE! So My dad does me a huge favor and wakes up at 5am to get to the Isuzu shop on the other side of the metroplex. It's about 35 miles from where I live. My dad gets there....and they say, "We need the car to test the module." Keep in mind this is after I scheduled it a week in advance. SON OF A B*TCH!

So we're off to the electronics specialists again and they help me locate another dealership. Finally we call Fazeli Isuzu in Dallas....they can test it...but the car has to be with it. Screw it...I'll do whatever. It'll have to be another week before they can get it in. Fine...me and my effing rental cars are getting tight now, anyhow. Fazeli tests it yesterday. "Sir...there's nothing wrong with your electrical system. Your PCM Module is fine, and your wiring harness is fine. Your computer is spitting out TRANSMISSION SHIFTING CODES FOR GEARS 1 to 2 and 2 to 3!!!!!"

"....what???"

"Yes sir...your electrical is fine...your transmission is the issue."

So I call the transmission shop again, and tell him I have verified PROOF that it's not an electrical issue. He acted like he didn't know why that would be happening.

To make a long story short...he got the car today. He's attempting to fix it again...and now...it's war. If he effs it up, I'm going after them for lost wages, rental cars, and electronic diagnostic fees. This is getting flat out DUMB!!!!

That's the latest as of today.

trooperbc
08-21-2007, 11:31 PM
man...i can imagine the frustration.....

during all this, has anyone actually tested the mode selector switch, the thing a couple of posters above mentioned.

especially, the dealer that did the pcm testing and came up with the trans codes, did they test or mention that switch? has the trans shop ever mentioned it?

//bced

Another_Drummer
08-24-2007, 09:48 AM
Well, so far it seems to be working.......so far.

I took it back to the trans shop, and they stated that they replaced some "faulty" solenoids.

My receipt showed that they replaced 3 solenoids, when the transmission has 5. Of course they said that they replaced "all" solenoids. Is it also a coincidence that the solenoids that they replaced.....I mean....replaced "again", 2 solenoids that didn't appear on the receipt?

Bottom line is this. It's working for right now.....and they changed the two solenoids in the housing unit, and cleared the computer. Everything is working well now. The only code they are getting now is the CO2 Sensor....and they cleared that off as well. They're saying that sometimes it spits out a code for that, and sometimes it doesn't.

Seriously, anyone want to buy a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with 120K miles on it? I really can't handle this car anymore.:frown:

tooper girl
09-08-2007, 10:11 PM
I am a 2001 Isuzu Trooper owner since March. I have been following your nightmare postings and trying to avoid (not go through what you are going through) but it is still happening. I have had my transmission rebuilt, new drive shaft, and new torque converter installed and still having the "fluttering" problem. Before the transmission was rebuilt I was having problems when my transmission should shift from over drive to 3 when passing or pulling up hill, and now I have the fluttering when it should shift from 2 to 3. The transmission shop had my Trooper for 18 days, they were finally so sick of it they told me to come and get it there was nothing else they could do. Thinking tires might contribute I had my Trooper aligned and had the tires balanced and rotated. I am still having problems and don't know what to do or where to turn. I have even taken it to an Isuzu dealership and they don't really know what is going on. I love my Tropper and can't find anything that even compares to it. Please keep posting your current "Nightmare" situation

Trooper Girl

Another_Drummer
09-12-2007, 08:59 AM
Hey Trooper Girl,

As of right now, my tranny seems to be doing great. Seems like the solenoids made a huge impact. Amazing that it took 2 months just to indentify it, after so many processes of elimination...when it could have been eliminated just by replacing two solenoids.

I have a check engine light on right now, but I know it's the CO2 sensor, and now I have to figure out how to replace it/them.

My transmission issues started with the fluttering you're describing...it did it from 2 to 3, and then when my car would go into OD, it would do it then too...sometimes so hard that my dash would rattle. They rebuilt my transmission and it fixed the problem (the first time). They told me that transmission pan looked like a chia pet.

By the way...Isuzu wont allow their dealerships to rebuild transmissions...they are instructed to replace with a brand new transmission due to so many of these issues. Interesting...I wonder if it's just 'easier' for them that way.

troopersucker
09-26-2007, 09:59 PM
Another Drummer,
I've been reading your thread and realized I'm experiencing the same problems. Was driving my very reliable 2000 trooper limited 3.5L yesterday and felt what I believed to be an ignition misfire and prayed it was not a transmission problem as I feared. I'm having the same shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to OD. After scrutinizing the entire diagoistics tree it is clear that the engine, ignition system and fuel injection are performing perfectly. At that point my technician discussed troublshooting a possible tranny problem by monitoring fluid pressure at the speed which the shudder was occuring. His preliminary thoughts were leading towards the torque converter, but that was pre-testing. Is your tranny still performing properly or have symtoms reappeared? It is evident that this transmission was designed by some geek engineer that isn't permitted to leave his (or her) cubicle. I fully believe that you should not be allowed to design mechanical equipment if the only dirt under your fingernails is the coffee you spilled on the computer key board last week. Any input is appreciated.

funknuggets
11-01-2007, 02:44 PM
Ok, please advise. I was directed here by some of my friends on another board... but help me out, is this the same issue?

Last saturday driving my 2001 Trooper 86K when it started sounded funny when going about 40 mph or faster and sounded as if it was coming in and out of overdrive... ok. Took to mechanic on monday stating transmission issues. They drove it, did some research and looked at codes and found an engine misfire, and said it was causing a delay or something with the torque converter, and so... $586 for new plugs, boots, fuel filter, etc.. and drove it home. Seemed better. Next morning drove to work... typical commute, dropped kid off at school, through neighborhoods to highway... drove 75ish for ~20 mi and then turned off . Came to stop at several stoplights, started fine. Was rolling along til making a right turn, and it completely slipped... voooooooom, rpms jumped to 6k and I rolled for a minute, it reengaged with no grinding, or anything.... drove up and over the hill, came through another turn, got to a downhill stoplight. Waited for green and voooooooom... nothing. No gears, no nothing. Rolled through the intersection... and pulled over and called mechanic, freaking out (luckily I was close to my work). He told me to try 1,2,R, D... nothing. So I went into work, told my boss that my car was parked in the middle of the road... I went back out to wait for tow, and decided I was too far out in the road... and could move it over a few feet. Started it up, and when shifting to neutral... felt it engage reverse. WTF. Put it in D, drove forward, and repeated 2 or 3 times. Fine. Tow arrived and took it back to shop. Drove it off the tow, and into the garage. They drove it, it shifted fine and strong, but finally let go again. They turned it off and restarted and what do you know... reengaged and drove it back to the shop.

My mechanic decided it was over his head and drove it down to certified transmission... and they looked at it and said it needs a new transmission. Shocker. I faxed them this thread. No reply. My mechanic calls and said they called him and told him it needed a new transmission. I sent HIM this thread. I basically asked how they KNEW I needed a transmission. He said there was a transmission code... would a solienoid issue like this throw the same error? I asked if there was definitive proof that they could prove it wasnt the solenoids... they did not answer.

Transmission fluid is crystal clear.

Please advise.

Another_Drummer
11-01-2007, 03:13 PM
Hey FunkNuggets,

That sounds like a nightmare much like mine was...so far it's still doing pretty good. I had my tranny rebuilt and was still having issues. Mine was a process of elimination deal, and it seemed to take forever. When it was said and done...make sure that your transmission is a-ok. If it's good, then make sure that they check the flippin' solenoids and make sure they aren't bad (like they SAID the did on mine). If everything is good...it may very well be an electrical issue. Mine didn't go into R when shifting from N. The shop I took it to didn't charge too much to test the electrical system to diagnose the issue....but thank God it wasn't the wiring harness or somesuch...because it's an expensive issue....between $2-$5K. I hope this helps you some...I can definitely relate to the frustration.

My check engine light is on right now, but I know it's because if my CO2 sensors. And now my brake light. I tell you what...it seems to be one issue after another with this car....but I still like it....don't know why.

Another_Drummer
11-01-2007, 03:31 PM
One more thing I forgot too....check and make sure that your alternator and battery aren't giving you a power spike which can cause the solenoids to be a bit 'confused'.

trooperbc
11-01-2007, 11:00 PM
......I basically asked how they KNEW I needed a transmission. He said there was a transmission code... ... what was the transmission code? [there isn't a code number for 'all problems with transmissions means you need a rebuild" ...]

the code, if in fact they retrieved one, will be a specific system code similar to what the CEL will give.

i'd call them on it.

while the trans codes are stored as are the CEL codes, did you get a trans light anytime?

//bc

Another_Drummer
11-02-2007, 06:46 AM
How ironic is it that I discuss this and lo and behold....what happens last night?!?!

I'm driving home and the "Check Trans" light starts flashing along. I was close to the transmission shop so I drove it in. They told me that the code it was spitting out was an undocumented code, which more than likely means that the O2 sensors need to be changed...it's causing confusion and will start to affect the transmission.

So now my mission this weekend is to get the O2 sensors replaced. The transmission shop told me to make sure that I order Isuzu sensors, and not from an automotive shop....he said that the non-branded Isuzu O2 sensors can cause the transmission not to shift properly in some cases.

:runaround:

Everythings clean. Filter is fine, fluids are fine.

trooperbc
11-03-2007, 12:28 AM
How ironic is it that I discuss this and lo and behold....what happens last night?!?!

I'm driving home and the "Check Trans" light starts flashing along. I was close to the transmission shop so I drove it in. They told me that the code it was spitting out was an undocumented code, which more than likely means that the O2 sensors need to be changed...it's causing confusion and will start to affect the transmission.

So now my mission this weekend is to get the O2 sensors replaced. The transmission shop told me to make sure that I order Isuzu sensors, and not from an automotive shop....he said that the non-branded Isuzu O2 sensors can cause the transmission not to shift properly in some cases.

:runaround:

Everythings clean. Filter is fine, fluids are fine. sorry drummer. how is the trans working. you didn't mention, so i'd guess no problem? during the time the trans light was flashing, did you come to a stop, and then did the trans go into limp mode?

as to the shop's statements, sound like they are blowing smoke to me.

//bc

Another_Drummer
11-05-2007, 08:52 AM
That's funny that you say that. My transmission guy said that he's contemplating opening up a classic cars shop only. He said that transmissions are so too complicated and electronic these days. It's only getting worse....or better....i guess that depends on your view. I think the men and women who dig their hands in these things on a daily basis should have some design input in these things. My guy was also telling me what to buy next time when it comes to transmission durability. I think I'm going to get rid of this Trooper soon. It's a decent car...but I need something now with a warranty and gets better gas mileage. I filled up this morning for $60, and I have to fill up twice a week....it's eating my lunch.

As far as my transmission...since it's been rebuilt and since they replaced the solenoids...it's worked just fine. I still need to change the O2 sensors, and I need to check the brake sensors, or get new pads. Sometimes I think I feel it jump a little in the shift....but then again, I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid, or if it's really happening. The trans shop said it looks fine and it's not spitting out any mechanical codes....it's spitting out the O2 sensor code and an undocumented transmission code (related to the O2 sensors).

:2cents:

Another_Drummer
11-05-2007, 08:53 AM
That's funny that you say that. My transmission guy said that he's contemplating opening up a classic cars shop only. He said that transmissions are so too complicated and electronic these days. It's only getting worse....or better....i guess that depends on your view. I think the men and women who dig their hands in these things on a daily basis should have some design input in these things. My guy was also telling me what to buy next time when it comes to transmission durability. I think I'm going to get rid of this Trooper soon. It's a decent car...but I need something now with a warranty and gets better gas mileage. I filled up this morning for $60, and I have to fill up twice a week....it's eating my lunch.

As far as my transmission...since it's been rebuilt and since they replaced the solenoids...it's worked just fine. I still need to change the O2 sensors, and I need to check the brake sensors, or get new pads. Sometimes I think I feel it jump a little in the shift....but then again, I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid, or if it's really happening. The trans shop said it looks fine and it's not spitting out any mechanical codes....it's spitting out the O2 sensor code and an undocumented transmission code (related to the O2 sensors).

:2cents:

Area51dude
12-05-2007, 01:49 AM
Guys, as someone who works in the industry, let me apologize for what you've gone through....

first... there's no such thing as an "undocumented code", period. if someone can say that with a straight face you need to get your car out of their shop immediately.

DTC's, ( "trouble codes" ) come in two flavors, universal, and manufacturer-specific.

codes that start with a "0" are universal, that is, they mean the same thing whether they pop up in a Buick, a Ford, or an Isuzu.

codes that start with a "1" are manufacturer, and sometimes model specific codes.

You can get all manufacturer specific codes at www.obd-codes.com (http://www.obd-codes.com)

If someone running a shop can't tell you what a code means, they certainly don't understand what a "trouble tree" is, and they're just going to toss parts at your car until you run out of money, or they get lucky.

There is NO code that says " if you get this code replace transmission".

The service manual for Isuzus advises technicians to narrow down a trans concern systematically -

first, Check the fluid level - the trans isn't dead until it's FULL and dead.

"metal in the pan" is a tactic that trans shops use to scare people into replacing GOOD transmissions. "Looks like a Chia Pet" leaves alot of leeway,
having some metal in the pan is normal - that's why there's a magnet ( why would you need one if there was never-ever-ever supposed to be metal there???)...

CHUNKS of metal in the pan is bad... if the guy is honest... or you watched him pull the pan... ( pretty easy to toss some shavings into a pan on the way up to tell you that you need to write the shop a check for a new bass boat, er... transmission...)

next, unplug the trans and shift manually through the gears - if the concern is still present, it's NOT wiring, or a computer, or a left rear seat heater module - it's in the trans.

The next step is a line pressure check.

Low line pressure = internal problem in trans = replace/rebuild it.

If a tech doesn't know what a line pressure check is, get your car out of his shop.

This doesn't take days of labor or cost thousands in parts. you're talking an hour or so. it's all in the service manual, it's not rocket science.

I really hope the OP is in California - they have this neat little organization called the "Bureau of Automotive Repair" - if a shop jerks you around like this in California you can report them to B.A.R. and watch them get their butts kicked into next week.

Good luck!

atfdmike
12-05-2007, 10:22 AM
Well said, Area51dude! And Welcome!

Lakeshow23
12-18-2007, 10:30 PM
Guys, as someone who works in the industry, let me apologize for what you've gone through....

first... there's no such thing as an "undocumented code", period. if someone can say that with a straight face you need to get your car out of their shop immediately.

DTC's, ( "trouble codes" ) come in two flavors, universal, and manufacturer-specific.

codes that start with a "0" are universal, that is, they mean the same thing whether they pop up in a Buick, a Ford, or an Isuzu.

codes that start with a "1" are manufacturer, and sometimes model specific codes.

You can get all manufacturer specific codes at www.obd-codes.com (http://www.obd-codes.com)

If someone running a shop can't tell you what a code means, they certainly don't understand what a "trouble tree" is, and they're just going to toss parts at your car until you run out of money, or they get lucky.

There is NO code that says " if you get this code replace transmission".

The service manual for Isuzus advises technicians to narrow down a trans concern systematically -

first, Check the fluid level - the trans isn't dead until it's FULL and dead.

"metal in the pan" is a tactic that trans shops use to scare people into replacing GOOD transmissions. "Looks like a Chia Pet" leaves alot of leeway,
having some metal in the pan is normal - that's why there's a magnet ( why would you need one if there was never-ever-ever supposed to be metal there???)...

CHUNKS of metal in the pan is bad... if the guy is honest... or you watched him pull the pan... ( pretty easy to toss some shavings into a pan on the way up to tell you that you need to write the shop a check for a new bass boat, er... transmission...)

next, unplug the trans and shift manually through the gears - if the concern is still present, it's NOT wiring, or a computer, or a left rear seat heater module - it's in the trans.

The next step is a line pressure check.

Low line pressure = internal problem in trans = replace/rebuild it.

If a tech doesn't know what a line pressure check is, get your car out of his shop.

This doesn't take days of labor or cost thousands in parts. you're talking an hour or so. it's all in the service manual, it's not rocket science.

I really hope the OP is in California - they have this neat little organization called the "Bureau of Automotive Repair" - if a shop jerks you around like this in California you can report them to B.A.R. and watch them get their butts kicked into next week.

Good luck!

Thank goodness for your post! I was tossing and turning in my chair reading every single post in this thread and down here towards the bottom I was getting ready to start scorching some mechanic booty until I arrived at your post.

The problem is not the Trooper so much as the mechanics he's dealing with. CO2 sensors having an effect on the transmission. :screwy:

ncgator
12-28-2007, 06:35 PM
We are having the same "stuttering" problem with our 2001 Trooper. It's at around 90K and had all the transmission fluid changed at 70K. Took it to our mechanic and no codes came up, but when he drove it, he said it was the transmission. We took it to a transmission guy, and he too said no codes came up. Like a few others, our trooper seems to have shifting changes around 35-45 range... most notably. It feels as if it can't make up its mind about being in 3rd (?) or 4th (?) gear... quickly shifting up and down. About 3 weeks ago, right about 40 mph, the trooper started making a rather loud rumbling sound... brrrhhh that lasts until you let off the acceleration. The sound was rare... happened only 1 -2 times per week, but now will happen nearly every time you drive. Overall, the problem appears to be happening more frequently. When the shifting problem emerges, it tend to go away with firm acceleration or letting off the gas, and then resuming normally again. The problem is also most noticeable when tackling a grade or driving up a hill. Our transmission guy drove it, and didn't notice anything. So, I'm wondering whether or not replacing the electronic shift module or the solenoids is the best option. If the trans is bad, as in parts or broke or wearing beyond normal, will the trooper give a code? Any thoughts as to why there are no codes? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

fourwd1
01-10-2008, 10:05 PM
A majority of the shifting type issues with the 4L30E auto on the 3.5L are due to the shifter mounted switch. It goes bad, and the tranny does all kinds of strange things, 'stuttering' included.
May or may not throw any codes, one could even be fooled into thinking it's an electrical problem.
Check out my reply near the begining of this thread for more.

Bigdan430
02-14-2008, 09:52 AM
Hi, I am new to this forum and just read the above thread.

I have a 2000 Trooper that I bought new. I had the shudder problem years ago after traversing large hills with a car load of Scouts. I thought it was a heat shield vibrating and dismissed it. The Trooper needed a new transmission at 95K milles - paid in full by Isuzu under warranty after a little bit of a fight.

Now my Trooper has 134K and, agian, I have the dreaded shudder/grumbling noise between 35-45 mph, especially when going up slight grade. I took it to my transmission service place and they couldn't find anything wrong after driving and tests. I talked to them about the shudder, which they said was faint, but noticeable. We decided, even only 12K miles from last service, to go ahead and change the fluid/filter and ADD A SHUDDER FIX transmission additive. I picked up my Trooper yesterday and drove 60 miles since without hearing the grumbling or feeling any shudder.

I am never a big fan of additives to correct problems, but this seems to have helped - for now. I just diagnosed and replaced (myself) the intake manifolds gaskets (IMG -another problem with Troopers) and all CEL's are clear and free. I tend to keep cars until they are totally dead, but wonder if it is time to ditch the Trooper before a $2200 tranny rebuild is needed. If I notice the shudder again, I will replace the sensor mentioned here to see if that helps. Just thought I would throw out my experience for others to see. I too like my Trooper and now that I have recently put new tires, brakes, IMG, spark plugs, thermostat and cleared all codes - the old girl has the spunk as when new and even seems to be getting better gas mileage. Who knows how long I had the IMG problem.

Regards,

Dan

Ramblin Fever
02-16-2008, 02:35 AM
I wouldn't give up on her yet. Are you downshifting when pulling steep grades, and/or using your power mode??

I currently have 183k flawless miles on my original auto transmission, with having pulled a heavy boat for 60% of her life up and over 11,000 foot inclines.

My range mode sensor did fail at 70k miles and was covered under warranty, have never had an issue since.

I do partial drain/refills of the ATF every 10-12k miles.

Bigdan430
02-19-2008, 08:34 AM
It has been about 400 miles now since the fluid, filter change + shudder additive were done to my tranny. The tranny has been flawless since I left the shop. I think that I will conclude from this that Isuzu trannys need a fluid change sooner than 30K miles.

Ramblin Fever, based on your partial fluid drains/fills experience confirms this for me.

I will keep my Trooper until it is dead. I have 220K on a '95 Ford Aerostar and hope the Trooper can do better than it.

I never mess with the power mode/winter switches. And I do not manually down shift on grades. Ramblin... are you suggesting that I should be doing any of these?

Ramblin Fever
02-22-2008, 01:20 AM
There's two ways I do this....If I'm pulling a load, or have a truck full of people/gear, and I'm pulling an incline/steep grade, I will manually downshift it to 3rd to make CERTAIN that the tranny does not try to shift into 4th/overdrive too soon...the lessor amount of shifts that tranny is doing while climbing a mountain, the better off you are in keeping it cool, and keeping it locked in 3rd assures that you won't overwork tranny or the engine. There have been times I've had to even downshift into 2nd, but those times are VERY few and far between, and generally only if I'm on a VERY steep back road, in which top speed is 15-20mph, maybe.

2nd option....if the truck is empty or only half loaded with just people and not much gear, I will leave the tranny in *D* and push ON the power mode BEFORE even beginning the climb up the grade, this is the *sport* option gearing, if you will, for this truck and tells the tranny which gear is best for the road its experiencing. Many of times, with 2-3,000 ft inclines over the coarse of a few miles, the powermode is enough to keep the tranny/engine from lugging.

However, if the truck falls below 45mph in powermode, suddenly the tranny will do a harsh downshift into 2nd and send the rpm's to over 4,500...I don't like this, and prefer not to let it happen, but sometimes it does. At those times, I immediately shut OFF the powermode and downshift it to 3rd, where I will allow her to coast up the hill at 40mph at a decent 3-4k rpm's...I don't like to overwork the engine or tranny.

I do live in the Colorado high-country, thus I downshift and use my power mode a lot, specially while towing. These habits can prove to work wonders for keeping these trannies cool; the worst thing you can do to this tranny is overheat/overwork it.

Your winter mode feature is probably something that you won't use too often if yours is a 4x4, but could be something you try BEFORE putting it in 4-wheel drive. Pushing the winter mode ON simply starts the truck off in 3rd gear from a dead stop; i..e when your stuck on slippery ice, stuck in sand, mud, etc. it automatically shuts off once you reach 15mph.

This is a GREAT feature that I have used a few times with owning a 4x2 Rodeo in snow country.

mckinnsc
06-13-2009, 11:15 AM
I have a 2000 Isuzu Trooper (3.5L) 4x4 with ~120k miles on it. I really love it. Several months ago i started experiencing a shuttering while accelerating at around 35-40 mph which I thought might be related to an intake manifold issue. About a month ago i was driving and stopped at a red light-when I tried to accelerate the transmission in "D" it took a while for the tranny to engage. It will accelerate fine in "L". I am going to change out the fluid following a link I found on "planet isuzu" today to see if this helps the problem.

I did check the alternator and was seeing around 14v-thought that was good. I havent driven it in about a month and noticed that the battery was dead today-kinda strange, but I think it's unrealted since the tranny gets power from the alternator.

I also checked the shift indications with the dash readouts and they match up.

I noticed a post about solenoid issues-this will probably be my next step-can I change these myself and where can I purchase them?

As you can see I am trying to avoid taking it to the shop-with all of the horror stories I have heard.

Any help would be appreciated.

SteveO

Another_Drummer
06-15-2009, 12:58 PM
I'm no expert in this...I traded my crap Trooper in and got a 2006 Dodge Durango. Not a single problem with it.

From my issue...I had the same thing. It was a solenoid issue...or at least that's what they said....but it screwed up again. Mine got to where it only worked in R. I did the manual transmission thing for a while, but that eventually crapped out too.

Isuzu should have had a recall on them big-time!!!

fourwd1
06-16-2009, 01:13 PM
People, the biggest problem with this transmission is not the transmission, but the electronic module mounted underneath to the base of the shifter. It gets corroded inside and sends bad info to the ECM, causing all the simptoms you all are describing. Get a new module (I got mine a St Charles Isuzu, great price and service) and spend 30 mins replacing it before you spend mega bucks on tranny repairs. You can also try opening yours and try to clean it, but mine was to far gone for that to fix it (and I didn't consider the corrosion all that bad, that's how finicky it is).

Ramblin Fever
06-17-2009, 12:43 AM
I'm no expert in this...I traded my crap Trooper in and got a 2006 Dodge Durango. Not a single problem with it.

Isuzu should have had a recall on them big-time!!!

Why the need for a recall when only a few of them had issues. I've had my '97 Rodeo since new off the line, currently have nearly 200k miles original engine and auto transmission...haven't had a single issue.

Sounds like your crap Trooper was used when you bought it, thus your issues could have come from previous owner neglect or abuse.

Don't have many good things to say about Dodge Durango's, have 3 on my street, and all of them are on 2nd or 3rd transmissions, one is on engine #2, and the other one looks horrible after only a few years of use.

cookieboyjp
06-18-2009, 09:04 AM
This message is for Bigdan430. I hope you are still out there. My 2001 Trooper transmission history is absolutely identical to yours. Same symptoms, mileages, etc. I am now at 38,000 miles with my second tranny, and here we go again. It seems like a pretty common problem with these. Did the anti-shudder additive and fluid/filter change provide a long-term solution? Any input from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

aclone
11-05-2009, 02:36 AM
My 2002 Isuzu Trooper's the malfunction warning light was on and it has been shuttering & making noise while accelerating at around 35-40 mph and/or going uphill. I took it to the Isuzu dealer and they said there were two error codes P1850 and P0342 so I asked them to repair it. They replaced 1 gasket (oil pan), 2 GKT (oil pan/AT), 1 PIN (solenoid), 2 PIN (Spring,SOL), 1 washer (Solenoid), 1 Strainer ASM (Oil A/T), 1 Solenoid (Band), 2 Solenoids (on/off) A/T.
I got my car last week and the malfunction light has been off since. I still notice the noise from the transmission, though. I took it back to the dealer and they said my car is ready. They called me and said they fixed it by adding some sorta oil (transmission oil in the gear?) I have no idea what the customer serivce guy told me... Anyway, I am picking it up tomorrow and we'll see if they really 'fix' it! This car has been driving me crazy!

aclone
11-06-2009, 01:41 AM
Guys, I just got my car back and the noise is gone. They said it wasn't the transmission that getting some sorta weird noise. They said it was caused by not enough lubricant around the universal joints & sliding sleeve areas. They lubricated the areas to solve the problem. :)

aclone
11-09-2009, 06:40 AM
Oh well, I thought the problem of my isuzu trooper was fixed but the same problem has just happened today. My malfunction light is lit and the noise is back and is getting more serious when going 35-45mph and going uphill... I am taking this shitty trooper back to the dealer tomorrow! >_<

sassee
11-09-2009, 07:09 PM
Unfortunately, I don't hang-out on AutomotiveForums that much anymore but FYI..............If you have major issues like this, post them on "drivetrain problems" section of planetisuzu.com. If you're lucky, Jerry Llemond will happen to be hanging out and give you a quick reply.

Jerry is THE resident IsuzuGuru! He's worked as an Isuzu tech and trained Isuzu Techs for years and he has a huge supply of Zu parts. He guided me to fixing issues with my A340H (Aisin-Warner auto tranny) in just a couple posts. (I know engines but I'm CERTAINLY not a transmission guy)

I'm not trying to pull readers from AF as I'm starting to frequent this forum again but it certainly don't hurt to get another opinion.

ernie

drgsbg5060
01-26-2010, 02:25 AM
2001 Trooper; when I first start and put vehicle in Drive or Reverse and press the accelarator the vehicle hesitates. After a few seconds it may or may not 'jump' into gear. Or I may have to move the gear shift to park or another gear then to drive or reverse(which ever I need) before it goes into gear. After driving a while it has a grinding noise when starting from a full start. Need some ideas for trans shop. They have rebuilt the trans, supposidly changed the "pressure pump" but still doing same thing. Is it a solenoid problem. Wondering?

troopersucks
08-21-2013, 03:38 PM
2001 Trooper bought a year ago with a 2 year rebuilt tranny. Couple of months later started doing all of the above issues. Shuddering. Like in neutral before take off. Took to a shop and replaced the trans regulator and said trans seemed good. Another couple of weeks went by and started it and it would only go into reverse. Would not go into gear. Took it to another shop and he said I needed a rebuilt. About a month later, goes out again. The shop had a 3 year warranty so I took it back. A month later being in the shop he tells me that some of the eltrical like heated seats power do not work. They did when I took it in. Now he tells me he needs to replace the computer and no cost to me?? Sounds like he fried it trying to work on the electrical which I doubt he even knew anything about. Still could not get it to work so sends off my car to the actual eletrical guy and now he is saying it is not electrical by tranny. Now the shop is putting in another rebuilt and it has been there 3 months!!! I am a single parent and have put $3500 plus the cost of the car!! The shop keeps given me the run around.

PotentialTrooper
02-08-2014, 05:13 PM
I'm having second thoughts about buying a clean nice 2002 Trooper running fine with check engine light and 2 codes: O2 sensor and spark plug misfiring. Is this a pre-transmission warning? Electric wires, motors, sensors, activators start failing after a few years and weird unpredictable things start happening. They should have an expiration date. Wires oxidize and become dirty electricity and unreliable signals. A wise mechanic once said, 99% of your problems is electrical. I'm probably gonna buy the Trooper anyway, put new sensor, spark plugs and wires and gear shift controller. I can still back out when I see the car up close and talk to the seller. It'll be an upgrade from 1988 Montero.

txfromwi
02-22-2014, 10:54 AM
Hi,

Great info. Finally some real help for this issue!

Same as others, shudder, noises. No one can diagnose. Acura claims that they never sold a re-badged Trooper (even though that was the first 2 years of the MDX - and I saw one again just last week...) and refuse to even look at it.

This vehicle is one step away from donation to Click and Clack!

I also have the following:

Yesterday it would barely move when in any forward gear, but I was able to move fine in L and then shift up.

Today, it will barely move forward both in any forward gear setting and in L so it is functionally dead in the driveway.

Interestingly, reverse seems OK.

Before I spend any effort at all, please advise if this is most likely the electronics module at the base of the gear shift (which I can easily change myself) or the solenoids (which I could probably change myself if they are accessible from the outside, I can find them and they don't require any goofy specialty tool) or the bands inside the transmission (hello Public Broadcasting).

This is a 2001 Trooper Limited 4WD, the transmission fluid is full and looks and smells good.

It was rebuilt a few years ago for a blown torque converter, however the strange noises did not go away after the rebuild.

If you have a diagnosis please advise what the parts will likely be called so that I can properly select them, where to locate parts online and a probable rough cost for each so I can check that I am ordering the correct part.

If solenoids and they are external, please advise which ones and where they are. (I have a mechanics manual for the 1992 Trooper (if that helps), but not one for this 2001.) (The '92 was lost to Tropical Storm Allison and took 35.5" of water - that was a great truck - God rest her soul!)

It's great having a beater truck for heavy errands and I'm not ready to put the brand new Land Rover into "heavy errands" just yet, so I greatly appreciate any assistance in keeping the Trooper alive for a bit more...

Thanks,

Dan

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