I'm working on the front driver's side brakes and I can't install the inner pad onto the caliper bracket. The outer pad goes on just fine with slight to moderate pressure. I can't even force the inner pad on with brute force. Plus I would imagine you don't want to force it on...it should be able to move somewhat freely. I also removed the caliper bracket and tried to install the inner pad off the vehicle on my work bench where I could see what I'm doing better and to get better leverage. Still with all my might I couldn't get it on. I tried each of the 4 pads with no success. I also noticed that when taking the inner pad off I had to pry it with a screwdriver to get it off. Also this pad had a very unusual wear pattern. The outer edge of the pad (about 1/4 inch) was worn significantly more and it cut a groove into the rotor. And overall the inner pad was worn more than the outer pad. I will be replacing the caliper.
I saw one other post where the author could not install one of the pads but there was no resolution posted.
Please help as my wife depends on this vehicle on a daily basis and it's now out of commission.
Thanks, Bill

Edit: If it makes any difference, I have the TRW calipers. Drums on the rear.

You have : wrong brake pads? Or stuck piston in caliper? Or collapsed rubber brake hoses on front? Lubricate the caliper pins with high temp grease.

It's not the caliper or hoses causing this problem since I can't get the pads into the bracket even after taking the bracket off the car and trying at the work bench. I had to order a new caliper anyway because of the uneven wear. I asked the parts guy if he had any info on the subject and he said possibly a distorted caliper bracket. We'll see because the new caliper comes with the bracket. Just curious if anyone has ever heard of such a problem.

Well, it turns out that there was a problem with the caliper bracket and low and behold both sides have the same problem. New caliper assemblies = brake pads go on. Oh, and we'll throw in a bad wheel hub for good measure while doing this brake job. Maybe I can find one more problem so I can top the $500 mark. Arghhhhhh! This car has just over 60k miles and it feels more like 160k. The clunking, clicking and rotted exhaust will be the next big ticket items. The exhaust is understandable, but as far as I'm concerned the rest in unacceptable at just over 60k miles. Did I mention this is the 3rd set of front brakes on this car, and my wife drives like a granny.
I can't wait to pick up a Toyota in a few more years.
I'm done venting. Thanks.

Well, it turns out that there was a problem with the caliper bracket and low and behold both sides have the same problem. New caliper assemblies = brake pads go on. Oh, and we'll throw in a bad wheel hub for good measure while doing this brake job. Maybe I can find one more problem so I can top the $500 mark. Arghhhhhh! This car has just over 60k miles and it feels more like 160k. The clunking, clicking and rotted exhaust will be the next big ticket items. The exhaust is understandable, but as far as I'm concerned the rest in unacceptable at just over 60k miles. Did I mention this is the 3rd set of front brakes on this car, and my wife drives like a granny.
I can't wait to pick up a Toyota in a few more years.
I'm done venting. Thanks.

Bummer. Sorry about the bad luck. I appreciate the story about the two bent caliper's. I never would have thought of that.

Do you have drum brakes in the rear? I have disk brakes on all four wheals and I've heard that the front breaks are different depending if the rear wheel has disk or drums. I say this, because on my '02 Grand Caravan the front calipers are these really solid cast iron monsters that I can't see it warping. I guess Chrysler got cheep with some models.

Best Regards,
Stan

I do have the drums in the rear. I was really surprised to find out about the warped bracket because, like you said, the bracket is a very substantial piece of hardware. It must have heated up really bad. Which makes sense since a while back my wife complained that the brake pedal went to the floor momentarily then came back. And when she stopped she saw smoke and smelled burning. The system must have overheated and boiled the fluid. I didn't think much of it at the time because I took it for a drive and had no problem and it never happened again and the brakes seemd to work the same as they did before the event.

Quote 1:
Originally Posted by hayesbcajh
Well, it turns out that there was a problem with the caliper bracket and low and behold both sides have the same problem. New caliper assemblies = brake pads go on. Oh, and we'll throw in a bad wheel hub for good measure while doing this brake job. Maybe I can find one more problem so I can top the $500 mark. Arghhhhhh! This car has just over 60k miles and it feels more like 160k. The clunking, clicking and rotted exhaust will be the next big ticket items. The exhaust is understandable, but as far as I'm concerned the rest in unacceptable at just over 60k miles. Did I mention this is the 3rd set of front brakes on this car, and my wife drives like a granny.
I can't wait to pick up a Toyota in a few more years.
I'm done venting. Thanks.
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Quote 2:
Bummer. Sorry about the bad luck. I appreciate the story about the two bent caliper's. I never would have thought of that.

Do you have drum brakes in the rear? I have disk brakes on all four wheals and I've heard that the front breaks are different depending if the rear wheel has disk or drums. I say this, because on my '02 Grand Caravan the front calipers are these really solid cast iron monsters that I can't see it warping. I guess Chrysler got cheep with some models.

Best Regards,
Stan
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Unfortunately Chrysler continues to get cheaper with metal quality and engineering. It's not bad luck at all. I too own a Caravan, a 2005 with only 22500 miles on it. At 19000 miles, I noticed my brake pedal beginning to develop a pulsation. I took it to my trusted garage, not the dealer, and they discovered that the brake pads were frozen against the rotors. This caused the buildup of extra heat which began to ruin the rotors. The garage turned my rotors, cleaned up the calipers and lubed the pad sliders with high temp grease. This month, my inspection was due, and they found I only had 1/16" of brake pad left, and more rotor deterioration. I made the appt. for a brake job, and they turned one rotor smooth and discovered that the thickness was just under allowable limits. When they told me of this, I saw myself back in the garage 3000 miles later for more brake work, so I told them to install new rotors. Now I have full brake pedal once again. I also drive like Grandpa, I always have. I prefer to take care of my stuff.

The heat from the scraping pads is the issue with these brakes. Even though the calipers appear substantial, they are just cheap cast iron. They are not good forged steel. The heat that builds up will relieve any stresses in the metal and warp them very easily. If you continue to own & drive the vehicle, it would be a good idea to clean and lube the calipers every 3000 - 5000 miles to prevent this from happening. That's what I am going to do until I get rid of my Caravan.

I've driven Chrysler products since 1980, and this is my last Chrysler, period. I too am looking forward to a Toyota or Lexus.

Doctor S.

DoctorS - If your problem continues you might consider changing the proportioning valve. It distributes pressures between the front and rear brakes. Granted the front brakes are designed to do 70% of the stopping but your valve may be forcing the front brakes to do more than designed.