When the factory fittings which connect to the supply and return on the fuel sending unit go bad... where do new ones come from? I've replaced all the lines up to the sending unit, I just need to make that last connection.

I've tried standard flared fittings, but they're not the same, the sending unit has an additional seal + flange on the very tip.

Ideas??

When the factory fittings which connect to the supply and return on the fuel sending unit go bad... where do new ones come from? I've replaced all the lines up to the sending unit, I just need to make that last connection.

I've tried standard flared fittings, but they're not the same, the sending unit has an additional seal + flange on the very tip.

Ideas??
Had that happen on my 92 s-10. Those lines if available are mighty expensve. I just ran a new line to the sending unit and used compression fittings to join them up.

So you cut off the end of the pipe coming from the sending unit?

So you cut off the end of the pipe coming from the sending unit?
exactly. Unless you can find the correct fuel line connection hose somewhere, this would be an option. Just make sure you have the same size fuel line as the sending unit with the end cut off. I would have just thrown on a rubber fuel line to connect them but was told absolutely dont do that. The pressure is too high in that area. Good luck!

You can run rubber fuel line, but you have to make sure its fuel injection grade neoprene hose. Its rated to at least 100lbs and can take the pressure. But if you do this, you have to slightly crimp/flare the end and double clamp the ends with good clamps. Also, it wasn't recommeded to run no more than 24inches of hose. I used this method on my '95 jimmy and had no troubles at all. It made taking the tank off alot easier.

That's what I ended up doing. I used the correct tubing and clamps. I think the longest piece of hose is only 10".

I did redue the lines last night adding the flare and double clamps. If I have a problem with the original connectors in the future, I'll have to do what you said before and modify the sending unit connectors. One note about the flaring. I originally tried it with a "full" flare that the tool gave me and it was too big to fit into the hose. So I was carefull after that to only flare so much as to give a good lip, but to also fit into the hose (still needing to twist and push pretty good).

I did use the old connections to the sending unit. I cleaned them up, but it was all I had. Can't find replacements anywhere other than a $218 "repair kit" sold by Dorman (part #800-934). The original tubing was all rotted, the return line was leaking a bit. Its all clean and good now.