'97 Aurora refused to start after 30mins of driving
Vintalage
05-05-2007, 10:35 PM
My uncle has a '97 Aurora that was involved in a minor accident (damage cosmetic only). Today, we went to visit a couple of body shops and after the final destination, he shut the car down for 10 mins and tried to start it back up and it wouldn't start after numerous attempts. The mechanics there were saying it might be the flywheel but one mechanic tried manually turning it and it didn't do anything. Not too long ago before the accident, he had the starter replaced because of this very problem and he thought the problem was resolved but today proved otherwise.
What is causing this? The sound it makes when trying to start is a loud TICK TOCK, TICK TOCK. I was planning on taking the car off his hands for $500 and getting the parts replaced but this problem made me reconsider. We had to leave the car at the body shop parking lot and catch a ride home but I went back four hours later and after one attempt, it started. I drove it for about an hour and a half and parked it and it almost didn't start again. I am stumped. I like the car and the performance the engine has to offer; It drove very nicely. But this car has been a nightmare for my uncle since he bought it in 2001. $3000+ worth of repairs.
What to do?
What is causing this? The sound it makes when trying to start is a loud TICK TOCK, TICK TOCK. I was planning on taking the car off his hands for $500 and getting the parts replaced but this problem made me reconsider. We had to leave the car at the body shop parking lot and catch a ride home but I went back four hours later and after one attempt, it started. I drove it for about an hour and a half and parked it and it almost didn't start again. I am stumped. I like the car and the performance the engine has to offer; It drove very nicely. But this car has been a nightmare for my uncle since he bought it in 2001. $3000+ worth of repairs.
What to do?
95supreme
05-05-2007, 11:00 PM
Check the alternator, and the voltage on the battery!
Vintalage
05-06-2007, 10:40 AM
Voltage was good. It was reading between 12.5 - 12.8. When the car is running, the voltage is at 14.x Battery and alternator are good.
Vintalage
05-06-2007, 10:44 AM
Let me also ask these questions; If the flywheel is the culprit, does the transmission have to be removed inorder to replace it? That's what one of the mechanics said will have to be done. Secondly, could this be the result of the starter solenoid?
lynzoid
05-06-2007, 11:12 AM
starter is between the heads and accessible by dismantling intake manifold, to check flywheel (0.0000000001% chance that flywheel is bad) - lower cradle, disconnect tranny - heck of a job
95supreme
05-06-2007, 09:27 PM
Really slim chance your flywheel is bad.
Do you put premium gas in your aurora? If not, you're supposed to. Try adding some fuels system treatment cleaner as well.
Also, how new are your plugs? I would get your car scanned for codes though.
Do you put premium gas in your aurora? If not, you're supposed to. Try adding some fuels system treatment cleaner as well.
Also, how new are your plugs? I would get your car scanned for codes though.
Vintalage
05-10-2007, 04:54 PM
Really slim chance your flywheel is bad.
Do you put premium gas in your aurora? If not, you're supposed to. Try adding some fuels system treatment cleaner as well.
Also, how new are your plugs? I would get your car scanned for codes though.
My uncle was putting mid-grade gas in the car. This past sunday, I put premium gas in it. The plugs are new and when the car runs, it does not hesitate and has alot of performance.
I believe it is the starter soleniod. Based on the symptoms, it leads to that. It starts right up when the starter receives electrical current.
By the way, I bought the car from him.
Do you put premium gas in your aurora? If not, you're supposed to. Try adding some fuels system treatment cleaner as well.
Also, how new are your plugs? I would get your car scanned for codes though.
My uncle was putting mid-grade gas in the car. This past sunday, I put premium gas in it. The plugs are new and when the car runs, it does not hesitate and has alot of performance.
I believe it is the starter soleniod. Based on the symptoms, it leads to that. It starts right up when the starter receives electrical current.
By the way, I bought the car from him.
threebanger
05-12-2007, 06:05 PM
Could be the starter relay located high up under the dash on the driver's side that's causing the problem but it really sounds like the ignition switch to me. Not the key/pellet/security but the tumbler and harness from the left hand side of the column. Same problem I had....loud click or tick noise but starter wouldn't engage. If the starter solenoid has already been replaced recently I wouldn't go that way. Igntion switch assembly costs ~ $125 and takes around an hour to install. Good luck.
aarcuda
05-30-2007, 12:30 PM
no way is it the flywheel.
You have a starter problem, a battery problem or a bad wiring connection somewhere.
Starters take a lot of juice to run. LOTS OF CURRENT. Just because you read a no load voltage of 12.8 v at the battery, doesnt mean the battery is good.
You need to LOAD test it. Thats when you put a big load (usually a carbon pile resistor) on it and read the voltage. A voltmeter has no load and will not tell you if the battery is good.
one cheapy way we used to do this is to turn on the headlights and crank it over. if the lights go super dim, the battery or the connections are bad. the best way to check the battery is to get a load tester or bring it to autoze or oreillys or someplace that checks batteries
Also, if there is a crudded up or corroded connection, you'll have a big resistance there that will limit the amount of current to the starter.
You have a starter problem, a battery problem or a bad wiring connection somewhere.
Starters take a lot of juice to run. LOTS OF CURRENT. Just because you read a no load voltage of 12.8 v at the battery, doesnt mean the battery is good.
You need to LOAD test it. Thats when you put a big load (usually a carbon pile resistor) on it and read the voltage. A voltmeter has no load and will not tell you if the battery is good.
one cheapy way we used to do this is to turn on the headlights and crank it over. if the lights go super dim, the battery or the connections are bad. the best way to check the battery is to get a load tester or bring it to autoze or oreillys or someplace that checks batteries
Also, if there is a crudded up or corroded connection, you'll have a big resistance there that will limit the amount of current to the starter.
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