traction control problem

I have a '97 Aurora, that I have had for a year, and 9 months. Since I have owed it, the traction control in this car, has never worked, . I have read quite a lot of posts on this problem. I have only noticed one solution. Where someone paid out a cool $$$ thousand to troubleshoot his system, and then replace his (BPMV)Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Assembly,Ouch! 99% of the time, if I turn the traction control off, on the console, its not a problem. But I would like to see if I can get it to function. As soon as I turn the traction control on, it starts braking the car, as if the wheels are in a skid or something. I had the car scanned at a couple of auto parts stores. But there are no DTC's. The speed sensors on the front are new. And I cleaned the ones on the rear. The previous ower ran the car hot, and a hose or something bursted, and spewed water inside the engine compartment. I'll check to see if any water got into the electronic brake control module. And check by the salvage yard to see if I can fine a used BPMV. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

to get ABS diag errors you must use Tech2 scanner only, invoke 'chassis-EBTCM' section, and read codes. i bet there's plenty of them for you mate.

You can also use a Snap On MT2500.

is that true for 95's wedge ??
i mean i had mt2500 in my hands and i read DTC's from my 95, but i failed to spot extra unit controls in menu (chassis, DIC, etc).

When first prompted what systems you should be able to pick abs, mine does. Now you would need a trouble shooter abs cartridge to get into in depth diagnostics, but you should be
able to check wheel speed sensor inputs.

ah the extra cartridge.. i see... cos for me only tech2 with domestic usual cartridge showed up whole range of extra stuff, such as abs autobleed, idle cal. procedure etc... still trying to buy cheap tech1...

I got my abs scanned today. Had to search for a shop that had the scanner. Midas did it for $101.26. They didn't give me the DTC's, but told me the right wheel sensor went bad, and caused the anti-lock brake, traction control module to short to ground. They told me I need to replace the wheel sensor($180.52), and the ABTCM(411.66). I may not have to pay for the wheel sensor, since it came with the wheel bearing that I purchased last summer. I am sure it had at least a year's warranty on it.
That ABTCM could have been already bad before i replaced those wheel bearings and sensors. The mechanic said there was no way i could prove that.

rape. new wheel hub - 80$, new ebtcm - 200ish.
scan for 100 without even DTC's - rape

Do not do the ebcm ,this code can be falsely set by the speed sensor on many scanners.

I went back and cleaned my speed sensor connections, just to be sure they are clean. I installed a hub and wheel bearing assembly on the right side. Afterward I took Rora out for a drive. The traction off indicator came on, then blinked off. But the anti-lock brake indicator stayed on. After stopping at a store for a soft drink. The anti-lock brake indicator blinked off. The next day I took Rora out for a 30 mile trip, and came back and drove around town awhile. I didn't have a problem with the traction control. Rora's ABS is up and running. I didn't have to bother with the EBTC module.
Thanks guys! I think I saved enough money to enjoy a steak dinner and a 16oz brewski.

here in cold russia-ski iski will haveski to getski byski on pizzaski =)

glad it helped. get it scanned anyway when you have a moment

I was looking at snap-on MT2500 scanners on e-bay. Some comes in a set. And others are just the main controller. Then there is just the accessories: cartridges, adapters, cables, manuals, and keys. what are the basic items that I need to troubleshoot Rora?

Quoting one snap-one technician, to scan my 95's basic DTC's i need:
Scanner
Main Cable
OBDII adapter
Key 9
95 or newer domestic primary cartridge

Also as i understand, to get EBTCM DTC's i will also need a ABS troubleshooter cartridge. I don't actually plan on getting one meself, as my rora's abs/tcs system is almost trouble free (excluding pmv overpressure signal dtc, which is basically needed in case i slam on brakes while traction is active only), and i have a handy repair shop that gives me tech2 to use at theirs free of charge. believe me, i've seen loads of usa oriented scantools, but tech2 blows them all away =) bit pricey tho

Pontiac GTP 1999 Diagnostic Code C0550, my dealer told me I had to replace the EBTCM for $1200. All three ABS, TCS and Cruise Control non functioning.. According to the codes I've seen listed its the ECU..

Now I'm confused.. should I get the State's fraud division involved with this dealer? So far I've had four diagnostics done to the tune of $400 and yet I've done no work because they want my first born to do the job.

They even had the audacity to tell me that the EBTCM may not be the only problem that another module may be causing that one to fail to the tune of another $800 or so!

This sounds like guess work to me at my expense.. what should I do? Both about reporting them and about my ABS/TCS/CC problem?? I don't hear any wheel noise. Is it possible that the ECU is the culprit?

Thanks...

offtopic. but
all you have to do is get at least alldata manual for your car, and do an EBTCM diag according to Diag FlowCharts !

Most prolly u just lost power/grounds to some components.
Or lost comms between PCM and EBTCM.
My bet is on wiring/electrical.

But even if your EBTCM is bad - you can get one off junkyard for 100ish bucks.

I'd report dealer to tradesman org.

helloo great thread here

we have a 98 achieva 79k all original miles runs and drives liek a brand new car,

but it has the ETS light stuck on

and the ABs light comes and goes



well the dealer said something about a wheel sensor harness problem

they also said there was/is a short in the a/c system somewhere, and the a/c fuse was burnt, they unplugged the compressor but we didnt know it until recently

this caused the auto trans shifter to not come out of park and when you manaully got it out of park to drive it it felt like it was stuck locked in the torque converter very hard to accelerate

this original compressor clutch coil had very low resistance so i swapped the compressor for one with a little more resistance in it

well before i swapped it the alternator fried on a highway trip and ate the battery down til the car couldnt run the engine anymore, this was a week ago,

well after the compressor swap it fried the replacmenet alt also,
so i had the original repaired with nw diodes at the shop yesterday
its fine so far, but who knwos for how long before it toasts the alt again,

the car originally only had a problem with the security system not allowing the car to run at startup commonly, months and months ago, and before

well after sending the IP Cluster in to have it fixed twice it is finally ok and hasnt had a security failure since

but it still will randomly fry the alt diodes and run the battery down to zero

so we are at a loss

sitting parked and turned off it does not drain the battery

no relay anywhere feels hot

all seems great

could it be a short in the ABS ?
a component ?

should i try unplugging the ABS control assembly at the master cylinder?(is this the abtcm?) and the wheel sensors too ?

important question: will the abtcm still short to ground if i unplug the wheel sensors ??


ideas ?

i appreciate anything


boy these mid late 90s cars were sure nightmares, with the ABS and ETS and security systems... wow..


ive seen some bad problems in my day but wow this one takes the cake and the ice cream and all the silverware too

damn.,

we are trading it in on a newer car such as an 04 GP GT 3800 soon or something similar that will be actually reliable electrically hopefully and i hope we can find one without ABS and security

hmm

Just had my 95 Aurora checked as the traction control has not worked for about a year and with all the ice we have had in Nebraska would have been nice to have working. I was told that it is the Pressure modulation valve which they said is a factory only part and would run over $1,000 to have repaired. Well just a bit much so going to go without. Does anyone know of any parts source where I may find one of these valves without selling one of the kids? :wink:

car-parts.com,
pmv - 17.95
go go go

Gentlemen this thread is way too old to tag onto, please start a new if you wish to continue, thanks.