Well, believe it or not im getting one of these, its got the 4.3 vtech with 160,000 mi (dont care for them) AWD auto and of course loaded (gold package??) you would think after owning a 93 jimmy id want to stay away :) j/k ive always loved bravadas so im picking it up on friday, just have some general questions....

Lucky for me the spider assembly on the vtech had been replaced recently so I wont have that nightmare, my question is are there any probs with the AWD??? when I was driving the front end sounded loud...dont know if common or I should check the fluid, the guy said that he has checked the fluid in the front def and was ok so dont know if supposed to be like that, didnt do it all the time????

Also the paint is faded, any suggestions on a wax product that I can use to try on the paint to get it somewhat shiny again??? lucky for me there is only minimal rust on this thing, on both sides of front fender there is some rust starting and a couple of places on tailgate, other than that fine for Iowa thats good, my jimmy is a rust bucket :)

Other than that its just a high end blazer/jimmy.....unless there is something else about these I need to know about?

Also anyone know the way to reprogram the keyless remote, guy changed battery and didnt work.

One more thing the guy that owned it from new to 75,000 miles used synthetic oil, then the guy im buying it from used till 130,000 then it seemed to start leaking a little, he went with reg oil and stopped....seals issue???


Thanks again for imput, im sure with this thing ill be back often....well hopefully not.....

I wonder if it is not the front wheel bearings in the hub that are causing the noise? What makes you think it is differential? More clues?
1 - Data Link Connectorhttp://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB~C20318~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/41746445/42419683/42419903/42419904/34853741/34866247/56494661/56279013/91722977/57478654

Ground pin G of the Data Link Connector (DLC).

Receiver will respond by locking and unlocking doors within 2 seconds.


Press any button of the first transmitter to be programmed.
The control module will respond by locking/unlocking doors and activating rear window release.
Press any button of the second transmitter to be programmed (if used).
The control module will respond by locking/unlocking doors and activating the rear window release.
Remove the ground applied to pin G of the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Transmitter operation is verified by locking and unlocking the doors and activating the rear window release.

Thanks for the info on the remote. The owner just mentioned may need to check the front diff, he said has checked b4 and level was fine. The guy has taken good care of the truck I can tell and the simple fact that the first owner rotated the tires at every oil change proved that this thing was pampered.

Congrats on your Bravada buy,
If your tranfer case has nice bright red fluid in it, you're going to be ok. You really don't do anything else, you're always in AWD.
For your paint, I'd try a cleaner/wax. It takes a little of the dead paint off while leaving a nice shine. I use Mcguires Cleaner Wax once a year on my red '92. I've been using Mcguires Tech wax the rest of the year but I like the Dupont teflon wax on my other vehicle so I'll likely put it on the Bravada too.
With 190k, mine has a little frontend noise that doesn't get any louder when I veer right & left at 40 to 55 mph so I'm not going to replace anything yet.
A transmission fluid & filter change is a good idea for any recent aquisition.
Does yours have a rear anti sway bar? I'd like to get one for mine so it'll handle better.

Thanks for the info atfmike, are any of those sockets ground(-)? The A socket is ground on the OBDI ALDL.

OK, gotta take care of Chris!


http://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB~C20318~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/41746445/42419683/42419903/42419904/34853741/34857029/34857030/34857209/34857215/42438195/41888592

Oooops, big goof on my part, I thought the first pic was OBDII.

I've tried others but I keep going back to good old Turtle Wax. Not the liquid, the paste wax. Rub it in good and hard to take off the oxidation and whatever's left of the clear coat. And stay away from power buffers. Wax on, wax off. It's a good days work out.

I had a hard time with turtle wax early.
At the Service Station I worked at as a teenager, my boss had a '66 Pontiac Bonneville that he wanted shined up. The paint was in very bad shape with tiny cracks but I said "no problem".
I applied green glass bottle turtle wax on that huge hood first and the old Mechanic said "you better do just 1/4 at a time" but me being at the most intelligent period of my life...just ask me...did the whole hood in the full sun.
All was fine until I tried to remove the residue. The shop rags wouldn't touch it. I rubbed and rubbed and couldn't make any headway. The Mechanic, feeling sorry for me said, "get the rubbing compound out" and we removed the residue and stuff that had settled in the finish itself. Also removed alot of dead paint and brought out a little of the better underlying paint. The trouble with that was the hood looked better than the rest of the car so we compounded the rest of the car to match things up. About that period of time, Rally came out in a paste wax and came off pretty easy after applying it.

In my distant youth, I too made the same mistake and applied the wax over a large area. I was lucky enough to have a smarter younger brother who told me to just rewax with the same wax over the dry stuff and sure enough, it came off. Took some elbow grease though!

yeah the turtle wax dries fast and hard, but my dad was commenting on the fact that the turtle wax i used on his ford last fall is still holding up this spring. I just do like a quarter of the hood at a time. wax on wax off. On the label it says not to use it in full sun for a very good reason as I found out the hard way. atfdmike's brother's method worked for me too.

Plan on taking a few hours, find a shade tree to park under and have a six pack of cool ones handy.

I know this is seriously off track but I have been a believer in the new tech treatments for cars and boats for about 20 years now. I used Diamond Brite before the dealers discovered it and charged high fees to treat new cars. It was not cheap then or now, but I started using Rejex last year, and have to say that so far I am quite impressed. If you follow the directions and apply it to a clean vehicle that has no wax and is not oxidized you get a slick high sheen finish. I have not seen any degradation over this winter in Michigan since I applied it last Spring. Water still beads on it and snow and ice slid right off at speed. It is not cheap either, but you don't have to keep applying it like waxes, and even though auto purists look down their noses at new tech, this stuff is really good.

http://www.buycorrosionx.com/media/images/product_category/61002x100.jpg (http://www.buycorrosionx.com/item--RejeX-16-oz-Plastic-Bottle--rejex61002.html)

I'd like to try Zaino Brothers stuff.

Thanks again mike for that info on remote, I tried it the first time and didnt work so I went and got new batteries and tried again, Bingo! another question I had, the map lights on the overhead console do those unscrew or do u need to take the whole thing down??? My plan is getting everything serviced soon as I can, lucky for me everything seems to be working fine on it so far (knock on wood). Thanks again for your help

P.S on the wax thing I picked up some mothers wax with the clay bar, wax and quick detail wax for show :) so I will try that this weekend and see how it goes, as far as the rust on the fenders its through so will just replace those and the tailgate ill be able to work on with some POR-15 ill be getting soon.....now if I could get that darn radio to work....o well time for a cd player :)

Glad to see you are making some progress. If your map light is round, I think the lense and bulb are one unit, and you should be able to push gently on the bulb and rotate it to unlock it. I just don't recall the specifics.