I found a 93 GT coupe,5sp non-turbo. Any big $$ things to look for before I buy? It is a daily driver w/120K on it. I am going to take a closer look in a couple days.

Thanks ET

with only 120k this car should still be in tip top mechanical shape. should have alot of miles left in her. i cant think of anything to watch for.

Here is a general response from the Camry FAQ thread. Not all the answers may apply to your vehicle:

Timing belt may be due to be changed at 120 K, an added expense.

Check the CV boots and see if they are torn - or grease has been thrown over the underbody in the area of the CV joints. Expensive repair.

You should actually flush (not just drain & refill) all fluids ASAP after buying the car. Oil change, Transmission, Coolant, Brake lines, Powersteering fluid. Keep this expense in mind.

Pull the oil filler cap and see if there is bright shiny metal visible or are there extensive black deposits, indicating a lack of maintenance. If there is alot of black crap visible, don't buy it. Check for oil leaks under the engine and transmission.

Have the brakes checked and see if they need to be changed. That will be an added expense after you buy it. Tires are costly also.

Make sure there is no smoke or steam coming out of the exhaust, either when just starting it or after it is hot. May be a sign of having been overheated or other serious problem. Don't buy it.

Check the coolant to make sure it is pretty red or green. No foam, bubbles in the overflow tank when the engine is running, or discoloration. If there are foam or bubbles - don't buy it.

Engine should run smoothly and quietly, no jerking, hesitating, or "Check Engine" light showing. Check recent emissions results if available.

Car should have no vibration at any speed. If there is any vibration, see if there is a bump in one of the tires. Anything else - don't buy it. If one of the tires has a bump, get it replaced as soon as possible. Take the cost of 4 tires into account if they are pretty used. You don't want one new tire on a set of badly used ones. On the test drive the vehicle should steer straight with no excessive side pull and the steering wheel should not be off center when driving on a straight road. Make allowances for an alignment and maybe front-end work if you find these indicators. Could be expensive.

Bounce the car hard, front and back separately. If it doesn't stop bouncing immediately, you may need to buy a set of struts. This can be expensive. As a general rule, there should be nothing wrong with the struts at 60K. If the car is a relatively new model, it may indicate that the car has been abused (or the speedometer has been rolled back). If the car is really old, the struts may be shot due to age alone. Mileage is not the only indicator of the expected strut condition. An old car doesn't have to have been abused to have bad struts at low mileage.

Along these lines: regardless of whether or not it has been driven hard, or sitting still, any car, regardless of make, can be expected to get around 10 years on the factory struts, springs, and rubber type mounts (i.e. strut mounts, bushings, engine mounts, etc.). And that it is fairly downhill quickly from there.

Check under the car for shiny welds or a lot of new parts that may indicate the car has been extensively fixed because of a collision. Also check the dashboard and see if it has a VIN in front of the driver, no VIN number indicates it has been replaced - check the VIN against the title. Don't buy it if anything is wrong.

Check the body panel fasteners. Example - Fender, Hood, Door, Trunk bolts, etc. Signs of chipped paint, disturbed mating surfaces, and tool usage may indicate that the vehicle has had body damage and been repaired. Run your fingers along the seams between the body panels. Wavyness or uneven spacing in the body panels indicates the presence of collision damage. Likewise, check the shock towers for welds, indicating repairs.

Check all the lights, turn signals, cruise control (may be designed to work only above a certain speed), and other electrical components for proper operation. Also check that the air conditioning blows cold air and the heater works.

If you don't know the car's history, check CARFAX.com for history. Only buy it if it has a squeeky clean history.

There are other cars available that don't have potential serious problems. Don't take chances if there are unknown costs after the purchase. Don't buy it if there is any doubt about it's condition. Have a mechanic look at it - it is worth the money.