1997 S-10 Blazer Dont know whats wrong!

I have a problem and I'm sure someone out there either has had this problem or know what the problem is. My 1997 Blazer Lt is having problems with the wipers working. The front and back wiper pretty much works when it wants to. I have noticed the ONLY time the wipers are not working is when its raining, so Im thinking because of them getting wet they dont work, but I dont know really whats happening here. I told a machanic of my problem and he thought maybe it was the alternater, but he checked it and said my alternater was fine and I should replace my battery, which I did that day and thought it was fixed and everything was fine but one night when it was raining I used my front wipers and they worked but then when I let my truck sit out in the rain and went to go somewhere 2 hours later they didnt work at all, and made a raarrrr sound like it was dying. Now tonight when it was raining the wipers worked but only very slow, they worked normally after I had the wipers on full blast, but the back ones didnt work until after I was in my garage and turned my truck off for about 2 minutes.

I have the exact same problem on my '95. I replaced the wiper motor myself, and it really didn't help put the old one back on. So it is something outside of that. Does anyone have any clue of what this could be? I found there was a service bulletin for it, describing the same problem but when I approached Chevy they said it didn't affect my vehicle. Sure it didn't.

Right next to the motor is a control box with 3 screws in it. Take the screws out, and take off the cover. Inside is a control board for the wiper delay. Grab both sides and pull the board out at the end of the board are 2 prongs BEND them back and then put the board back in. This should correct your problem, it did mine. When you look at your prongs make sure they are not burnt out, if they are you need to replace the board and it runs about $45. If you have anymore questions please ask :)

i don't know about the rear wiper but I can help with the front.
Siberian tiger is correct

you will need
1/4 ratchet
right size torx socket. I think it's 8. but i'm not sure i would have to check for you.

pop open black plastic cover above the brake booster. 2 clips. Now you can move the wires over to make room for yourself. be careful with these 2 black bundles of wire. they are very important!

Disconnect Wire Plug that's on the side of the black cover of wiper motor.
Remove 3 screws.
Remove black cover - square shape.
Replace Black Cover with a New One.

Your wiper motor should be good. It's just the Cover that goes bad which houses the electrical stuff to operate the wiper motor.

but back together and enjoy your wipers. Front at least

:frog:

I forgot to mention it did in fact work for the back as well as my front wipers :) They have been working great for a week now, Im so pleased.

Hey webcrawler...Thanks for getting more in depth, I wanted to help but knew there was more to say..lol Right On!

OK a couple weeks have went by and my wipers worked every time I would try useing them. Well tonight I went to use them and they worked, but then I turned them off and about 5 minutes later went to use them again and nothing, wouldnt budge. I thought what I did really helped, maybe it was just temporary :( Any ideas? What do I have to do now, Ive got a new battery like the first guy told me to do, week later went and bought a alternater like another guy told me to do, and even bent the prongs like he told me to do...

If you have a GM vehicle around 1996 and up and your wipers are not working. Most likely you have a bad circuit board.

Example you turn it on but nothing happens. You may or may not hear that the wiper motor is coming on but the wipers themselves are not moving. This will usually happen when your in a storm and you can't see anything!

What to do?

Well guess what, there is a bulletin. Any dealer that says NO is either lying to you or incompetent or doesn't care about your problem

To fix you need to simply REPLACE the black cover of the wiper motor with a new one. Period!!! No bending tangs. No soldering conections.
Do it right and replace it with a new one. The new ones are built better with better connections. $50

If you replace the entire wiper motor you are wasting your time and money and molesting your 'baby' unnecessarily.

Go to the dealer and tell them you just want the Wiper Motor Circuit Board. It's a black Cover with a Wire connection on it's side. The inside of this cover has an attached circuit board and tangs that ride on the wiper motor itself.

You'll need a 1/4 ratchet and a Small 'Torx' Socket.
Gm likes to use Torx bolts.
See above for more info to replace.
Be very careful with the wires next to this cover.
They are for the computer!!

Hope this helps
If you need to know what a Torx Bolt looks like then that will have to be another POST

:frog:

I am really glad there are people like you out there helping people like me who really dont know much about trucks. You have been a great help in my journey on finding out what is wrong with my 1997 Blazer Lt. I just cant thank you enough. I went out and bought what you told me to and it costed only $42 which was great. Thank you! *S*

I'm glad I could help.
95 and up Blazers have some unique little problems that are common.
- Wiper Motor Circuit Board is one of them.
- EGR is another
- Klunking in turns is another - Hood Bolts loose
When you have time I recommend everyone surf the Blazer Forums all over the web.
It's time consuming but I've learned alot of other common problems just reading up on someone else's.

So that if and when it happens to you, you're ready to deal with it much better.

My blazer stranded me twice:
Black Computer Cable loose - Replaced computer and tie strap connection.
Alternator went out - Replaced Alternater and Threw in an Optima Battery they are great.

But all is OK now........for the moment
:sun:

I think you may have helped me with another problem I am having... For like 2 months now I have been having the klunking sound in the front sounds like drivers side, and it happens when I turn. I have brought it into shops but nobody can tell me what it is unless I paid them more money to look into it further. But now after a couple months my front also has some sort of a small "rattle" noise like something is loose. Its hard to believe that by tightening bolts on the hood that it would help the klunking, but then again its not always the most obvious things either. Where are these bolts on the hood exactly?? Do you think thats where my rattle comes in too because maybe they have just been getting more loose as I drive. Also I know this seems like alot to ask because you have helped me with so much already but what is a EGR? I have asked 4 people and they all tell me something different and they know nothing either when it comes to auto's. Again Thank You for being so kind and answering these questions I have, maybe you should fix cars for a living you sure would do great at it :)

Hood Bolts -I'll post answer as a a separate post so that this post doesn't get too long.
Look for it on the main page. OK.

EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation. It's basically a Valve Bolted usually to the top of the engine. Round Disk with 2 bolts and usually a hose or two sometimes has an electrical plug as well. Basically when this valve is closed it doesn't do anything. It usually only opens once your going down the highway, Engine is cruising, RPMs are up. When valve opens it lets some of the exhaust coming out of the engine to recirculate back to the intake side. Helps the intake side burn better, reduces fuel consumption, and reduces emmissions. Kind of like when a cow regurgitates its food and eats it again to get all the nutrients out of the food. Blazer problem is that the valve doesn't want to completely close and the engine will stall when: "your at a stoplight" or "just trying to start the car". The Valve in this case is like a HUGE Vacuum Leak, the engine can't suck the intake air because it's open to the exhaust side as well, So the engine responds by cutting back on the fuel because the "AirFlow sensor" (rectangle box left of the air filter) doesn't sense air passing by it. So No air No Fuel will cause No Start or Stalling or Idling like crap. Engine at Idle has a hard time sucking the air in with an open EGR but on the highway its no problem because the Engine is spinning at a higher speed and has more suction power. Simple device that causes alot of GM problems for ALOT of people. Unfortunately you can spend alot of money replacing other things unnecesarily if you didn't know this.

As for your other question... I went to school for auto and diesel repair. I worked on cars for a few years but I make more $$$$$ truck driving and it's easier too. I don't have to worry about spending lots of money buying tools because almost 99% of the time your boss expects you to have your own tools. Tools can be very expensive inclugin the tool box. Also truck driving is easier on my hands, feet and back after 8 hours of working.


:D

If you want to say HI to your EGR Valve.
Prop Open Hood
Face Engine from the Front of the Car.
Right between the Alternator and the A/C Compressor you'll see the EGR Valve.
It's Shaped like a small motor with an electrical plug on top
and two bolts that hold it onto the intake manifold.
Right next to him you'll see a smaller Sensor.
Thats your coolant temperature sensor.

Say Hello

:frog:

I saw above that everyone was having problems with the wipers. I also experienced this problem and recently I received a letter of recall for some part in the wipers like a ball joint or something and they have worked ever since. So if anyone is still experiencing problems talk to a Chevrolet dealer near you I believe the offer was valid until 2004 but I am not sure. Good luck. Also if you had them fixed yourself if you show the receipt the company will reimburse you.

Yeah I got mine fixed a while ago, so when I got the letter I threw it in the garbage didnt think I could get reinbursed for it until 2 months later when someone told us but by then it was long gone...lol

You can get recall info at www.alldata.com

My 96 S-10 Blazer has a problem even my dealer can not find. The volt meter reads low and fluctuates. When I accelerate the air conditioning virtually turns off, or gets very low. The battery is new and good, the alternator is new and good. The fuel pump has just been replaced. The dealer said everything is within specs. But when they replaced the fuel pump the volt problem dissapeared for 4 days, then it returned. The A/C problem was non existent until the volt meter started flucuation. When it does ( kick in) the a normal charge mode. 14 volts. Everything works fine. Please help. What could be causing this voltage drop? Could ther be a vacuum issue when accelerating? Has anyone had these problems. Thank you in advance. Randy

All you need to do to fix the front wiper problem is pull the circuit board out of wiper motor and re-solder all the connections that go to the plug. If you look at these connections with a magnifying glass you will see that they are all cracked. I fixed so many of these for friends and family.

My rear wiper has stopped completely, fronts work fine. What is the best action to take? I will take off the trim, but does anyone know if you need to take off the inner panel to get to the wiper motor. If so is this complicated?

Is the wiper motor strong enough to move them or do you need a new one?

Hey my 91 s10 blazer does the same thing with the windsheild wipers. is this a common problem for all models or just specific years? and if so is this the same repair procedure??