I have a little 4x8 foot trailer and had it for sometime. Now the Malibu is gone I need to put a hitch on the Windstar. I already know what type of hitch I want. Going with a no drill class I hitch..The question is?? Do I need the step down converter for the lights. Some are saying it may be needed,some have the T splice wiring kit recommened. I will not be using a tranny cooler because the use of the trailer will be short and not very often. Mainly dump loads and home improvement runs. 3-4 times a year max...The big issue is the converter is 64.00 and the T splice is 25.00... Thanks for the help..

On my model ('99) the external lamps are switched on the negative side not the positive ... so there's 12 volts on the lamps at all times. I think most trailers come with a common ground and separate 12 volt feeds for the lamps.

So, on my model and for my trailer, the switching box was required. It was included, premounted, because of trailer package.

On my model ('99) the external lamps are switched on the negative side not the positive ... so there's 12 volts on the lamps at all times. I think most trailers come with a common ground and separate 12 volt feeds for the lamps.

So, on my model and for my trailer, the switching box was required. It was included, premounted, because of trailer package.
Thanks... Also went to JC whitney. There are showing only a T line connector with a box unit connected to it... It also shows for early model and late model. Late model was cheaper.. Still a little confused on which one I need..They also have a converter for it..http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Browse/tf-Browse/s-10101/N-111+10201+600002466/c-10101
Any suggestions on what I need...Theres the ACAR standard converter and the Hiddenhitch Converter.. It bypasses the car onboard CPU so it says..Thanks,Gary

It can get very confusing ... I would probably go to Ford in hope that they might could sell you the correct unit.

Or maybe in your case, I would first take readings at lamps to see how they are set up (or read a wiring diagram) ... and then rewire the trailer to match the van. A wiring diagram for the van would be very helpful ... available at helm.com.

I've used my Windstar for utility trailer and popup camper towing. The Windstar is a surprisingly capable tow vehicle for its weight range.

For 1999+ Windstars, the lighting was changed to "low side switching" - which means you'll need a converter box to attach a trailer on these models.

The converter box I used on my 2000 LX was specific for the Windstar, with a connector that plugged into the harness. For my 2000, the converter box lives behind the right rear light assembly. As it turns out, the left hand signal isn't available at that connector - so the one annoying part of the project was running a line from the left hand signal to the converter box (I removed the rear bumper cover to simplify this part of the job).

I also added wiring for a brake controller and a high-amperage line for the the popup camper refrigerator while on the road, so I had other wiring issues to deal with. I spent a lot of time and effort on wiring for towing - but the benefit has been many miles of problem-free towing. Here are some pictures of my Windstar towing-related projects:

http://community.webshots.com/album/549196858rbUAlb

For all trailer lighting, I recommend some kind of isolation relay to protect the van's lighting from any wiring problems that might occur on the trailer. Typical utility trailer wiring is notoriously flimsy; you don't want the Windstar *and* trailer to be in the dark just because a sharp trailer edge shorted a wire.

I bought a new trailer hitch 2 years ago and I'm going to get the wiring soon from this ebay seller:

http://cgi.ebay.com/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250068584111

The hitch was brand new (Curt), I had to bolt it into place which was fairly easy. I needed it for the big bike carrier. I now need the wiring kit for a trailer.

Phil-l is right on the money about isolation relays for the trailer lighting. You might get away with "selective" in-line fuses. Small fuses for the trailer loads.

Thanks for the info. I had a feeling there was going to be a problem on the wiring... I have heard on newer models cpu getting zapped. Then the trouble really starts.. I may go with the EBAY thing.. every one else is higher on the bypass converters..Thanks again.. Gary

Well finally found something. Went to Hiddenhitch.com They had the unit I needed.. So no drill class I hitch ,ball mount,and wire harness. total.. 209.85 with free shipping... Ebay was about the same after shipping.. ouch ebays gone crazy with shipping charges...89.00 for a hitch not sure if it was no drill and 39.00 for shipping.. so the price of the hitch was about the same.. 129.00 from hidden hitch. free shpping on orders over 98.00. http://www.hitchmart.com/$spindb.query.hitchinfo-2.hitchview.60954

Gary,
I have a hidden hitch brand hitch....came with the vehicle.....
The connector for the lighting was already there.
I also got a "anti rattle" clip.
It is a small clamp that holds the part with the ball in the receiver.....keeping it from rattling.
I only tow about 1 time a year....but it is a long trip with the vehicle full of youth from my church.....and the clip really DOES work.....no annoying rattle or clunk, clunk, on each little bump in the road.

I replaced the supplied bolt with the knob on it with a normal bolt as the knob was in the way.

I posted a picture of what it looks like installed.....it is the last picture in my pictures.

Thanks wiswind... I saw the photo.. I will keep this in mind after the install.. I will see what happens. Thanks for all other replys aswell.. Thanks,Gary

That anti rattle clip- I suppose that could work with any type of hitch and receiver, right? I also see that the Hidden Hitch website also sells wiring kits. I'll have to see how much that one costs. (Sorry- didn't mean to hijack the thread).

I got the clip from etrailer.
You just have to get the correct size....mine is 1"
It does not provide any real support....just a pressure on the tounge to keep it from rattling in the receiver.

That anti rattle clip- I suppose that could work with any type of hitch and receiver, right? I also see that the Hidden Hitch website also sells wiring kits. I'll have to see how much that one costs. (Sorry- didn't mean to hijack the thread).
The wire harness on hidden hitch was cheaper on ebay.. But my order was over 98.00 so I came out cheaper on hidden hitch site...

Got the Hitch in yesterday.. Got off work this morning and installed the hitch.. Fishing bolts through the frame rail was fun.. Install time would have been 20min
if the hitch was not a little bent on one of the frame rail sides.. Started to drill a new hole or add too the one that was there when BIG PRY bar popped into my head.. Why spend all this time drilling when I can Pry it to the hitch hole,. The only one that wont line up..Well ONE big pry bar and less than a minute spent Its perfect NOW!!!! Got PICS will post... soon... Took about 1 hour.. Now the fun part.. Trailer wiring.. T-connector harness....

Yeah, pre-drilled hitches often seem to need just a little persuasion to fit. That said, I've installed a number of the years, and they've always fit pretty well.

I installed a hitch on my brother's 2002 Grand Caravan a few weeks ago. The Class III hitch uses two of the existing bumper mount bolts and - of course - one of them broke rather than come out cleanly (in spite of a generous helping of PB Blaster). Oh well, I got to spend some quality time with a carbide drill bit.

Let us know how the wiring works out for you!

Hey got the wiring done today looks and works great.. Anyone going to put wiring for trailer. Get the T type connection kit. It looks like its going to be a pain but its really not. The only tools you will need is phillips and plain head screw driver and wire strippers and cutter and a sharp knife to cut the rubber groments to send the wires through. The wire strippers already should have the crimpers. Comes with almost everything except maybe a few more wire ties which I already have. Really One connection runs throught the rear hatch plastic carpet boot or trim which just pulls off and snaps back on. The 2 side panel just removed 2 screws and it snaped out enough to have room to hide the harness. Ran the main power wire to the batt. via running under spare tire and then following the rear AC line to the front until I got to the transmission. Ran it up by the air cleaner after that and to the batt.. So only one connection runs to the drivers side and the rest run to the passanger side.. Any help needed let me know. Sorry no pics having trouble downloading them on the msn site for some reason. Thanks for the info to make this job a breeze..

Is the wiring kit you bought from Hidden Hitch look about the same as the one from ebay? I need to buy one pretty quick. I printed out the instructions from the Hidden Hitch site and it looks like a fairly easy install.

Is the wiring kit you bought from Hidden Hitch look about the same as the one from ebay? I need to buy one pretty quick. I printed out the instructions from the Hidden Hitch site and it looks like a fairly easy install.
Yes it was the same.. just cheaper for me from hidden hitch because of multi order.. Ebays is a better deal after shipping.. on that item..

garync1 -

I'm pleased the wiring worked out for you.

I was very wary of running wires under the carpet trim, so I opted for the inside-the-bumper approach. Plus I had several other wires to run for other features, and wanted an externally-mounted 7 pin connector, so I had other issues to deal with.

I also followed the heater/freon lines with the wiring. Make sure the wire is well-protecting from chafing. I had several wires to run, so I put them in plastic split-loom tubing.

I hope you mounted your new underhood fuse someplace easy to get to - and be sure to carry a spare when towing! I've never blown a fuse with my trailers - but I've worked on some really bad trailer wiring in the past!

You also might be surprised how much you end up using the trailer; I find it to be very convenient. I totalled my 2006 towing miles the other day, and discovered 900 miles of utility trailer towing last year (on top of 1500+ popup camper miles). We went on several non-camping trips where we took stuff in the utility trailer, making it easier to deal with the kids in the van.

Yes I too was thinking on a split loom to run the wire through. I can get the tiny single wire loom cheap. I may buy the bigger loom to put the trailer wires that came out through the floor groment. To tidey it up a bit. I also rewired the trailer and put new lights on it. I have a temperary set up so I can take the wires off when I repaint the trailer. Going with a paint over rust system because there is too much rust. I will be sanding for years. Heck!! took me a week to do one side..And rusty again LOL... With the paint over rust system, wire brush off the heavy stuff and start painting..A little pricey though.. The trailer is a sturdy C channel steel trailer so it should hold up for years. It was custom built many years ago. In fact in our state NC. they have to be resgistered and in SC were my father lived before he pasted ,you did not have to register them so I have too deal with that later.. Tell then I wait tell I get pulled over by the Police..:evillol: Small fine... DOT his harder to deal with when they do there inspection. They want it to be new:banghead: ... Thanks for the reply.. Gary

garync1 -

Good news. Yes, every DMV seems to have different rules about home-built trailers.

If you're looking for trailer ideas, here's what I did:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/554856898xyWZek

I needed the option of enclosing the trailer for weather-tight storage on family trips. Starting with an old pickup truck bed cover, I made a hinged trailer top. The system has worked well for us.

Good Golly... If someone ran in the back of that it would total there car..LOL
Nice.... Very sturdy!! Very Red!! I do like the trailer and the flip top.. Thanks now I found a new place to put my photos. Here is my ugly trailer..LOL..
http://community.webshots.com/album/556939487VdTPOV

Your trailer looks pretty good! When I got my trailer, it was in far worse shape than yours. But with three small kids and a St. Bernard, I knew I needed a dry, protected way to bring stuff on long trips, so I started fixing it up. The project grew over time as I came up with more problems for it to solve. The final product is so useful, I'm not sure how I lived without it!