My ABS and Trac Off light continues to stay lit. I also have a problem with my RMP gauge will just stop working with no loss of power. I had trouble with my battery..the battery cables had a lot of corrosion on them. This caused the car not to start at times. I took it to a shop and they cleaned the corrosion off and new bolts for the battery were replaced. The RMP gauge and the 2 lights were problems before the battery problem. Do you think they have anything to do with each other? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

Get it scanned for abs codes and wheel speed sensor readings ( abs function scanner), otherwise the abs/trac sytem will require guess work to repair.

The tach dropping to zero just before the ABS/Trac-off light illumination could also be a sign of a bad crank sensor signal.

Thanks for the quick response. The three codes that were given to me were:
C0090, C0236, PO336. I know by looking online those are Rear ABS Solenoid #1 Circuit Malfunction, Rear Wheel Speed Signal Circuit Missing, and Crank Position Sensor. Before I head to the dealership, can anyone give me any idea on what is involved (money wise) with these codes? Thanks again. I get alittle worried about going to the dealership (cuz I am a woman :iceslolan ). Thanks!

Michelle

The first code sounds like the ABS unit may be faulty, and that will be expensive.
The second codes indicates either a bad wheel speed sensor, or the wiring to it on one of the rear wheels. The ABS sensor is contained in the hub bearing, so if it is found to be the issue, it will be expensive also.
The third code is not as expensive, as the part i relatively cheap ($25-$30 retail) and only about an hour or two labor for a shop with a hoist..

Just to add to Rich's copmprehensive advice, other false codes are frequently set when a wheel sensor code is set, tackle the speed sensor for the abs first, good chance that will clear up the problem.