97 aurora delayed start when turning key

Sometimes it takes 10 seconds while holding down the key for the engine to turn over. No problem starting once engine turns but usually a 3-10 sencond delay when turning the key. Any ideas?

Same crap - no idea.

Sometimes it takes 10 seconds while holding down the key for the engine to turn over. No problem starting once engine turns but usually a 3-10 sencond delay when turning the key. Any ideas?


Welcome on your first post on AF.
Does a gear shift wiggle or try in neutral help.
Do you have another key to try in it?
Any anti theft or security lights on or flashing?
Any remote start or add on anti theft stuff?
You may need to get a test light and a wiring diagram of the starter circuit and trace out for the place it is getting delayed.
I would start at the starter solenoid small wire and work back to the switch.
Also make sure battery cables and ends and grounds and side battery terminal bolts are clean and tight.
Mileage and engine and transmission would help.

I have a similar problem. It usually only delays a few seconds. I don't think its the starter. I think its something with the antitheft or gear shift lockout. I did put a resister in to bypass my passkey system because that kept failing, but I don't think the bypass is the problem. Something else weird is going on, but I don't think its the starter solenoid.

You can hear starter power solenoid relay clicking, but start sometimes delayed about 3-5 secs after it powers the starter.
My mech told me it's starter definitely. But it'll work for sometime more...
It's not that expensive anyways...

Make sure your key is clean. No ketshup, mustard, syrup,coffee, or anything on the key's pellet(micro-chip).

I am not a retard. I am quite good mech... Please don't say things like this.....

Please E X C U S E me Mr, for trying to be helpful. As long as I am trying to be helpful, I will say what I please.You don't have to take my advise, or anybodys elses on this forum. Isn't it great to live in a democracy????

Yea, i partly agree, but simptoms are pretty neatly explained, and if you read them you should know, that starter solenoid won't even engage if pass-key II system haven't accepted the key resistance.
Also, ketchup being on a key pellet - is it a joke ? Or sumthing ? I know you can get rora in usa for 1k$ and do as you please (dip keys in stuff), but here in Russia, i payed 7k$ of my hard earned cash + 2k$ on immidiate services, and i care alot about my car. This is a modern classic after all....

And lastly, if you use search, you'll see, that this problem had been explained alot already in this and that forums. And still no diagnosis.
Again, my serv owner says that this is 'starter coils going bad' (not starter solenoid).

Thanx, and let have peace =)

OK, I'll chime in on this one. It sounds kind of similiar to what I experienced this summer with my '95. I'd turn the key and I'd hear a "click" and then a delay and eventually the car would fire right up. I'm thinking the starter or solenoid is going bad. Well, eventually it wouldn't even attempt to start but I was lucky and it happened in my driveway. It would start with the remote start though. Long story short, what happened was the ignition switch (not the key tumbler on the right side, the actual igntion switch on the left side of the colum with the main harness) had gone bad. I had radio, dashlights, headlights, etc. but no starter engagement. I checked the security system, starter relay, etc. The ignition assembly on the left side of the column is basically plastic with an internal plastic cam and a series of copper contacts. When the key is turned, certain contacts come together. Well, the contact for the starter was fried. I bought the ignition switch and wiring harness on-line from Checker, I believe, for about $120. Quick and dirty way to check is to open the lower part of the steering column, locate one of the big red wires and the big yellow (starter) wire coming down the left side. Strip a little insulation off of each, turn the key to "ON" and touch the 2 wires together. If it pops right off, then you have the same problem I had. Good luck.

I had a very similar problem which developed over time. It turned out the fuel pressure regulator was bad and had to be replaced. Basically, the fuel hose would empty when the car was off and the fuel had to be drawn back up to the engine. It's apparently a common problem with this model. The GM dealer replaced it for $180 and it's perfect now.

lol.. just lol... we talking about starter not cranking engine, and you talk about lots of cranking to start... had this. yes frp (which cost 50 and diy replacement in 5min) solved it immed...