Anyone perform an engine replacement/R&R on a Venture

I was wondering if any of you have replaced or performed an engine R&R on their Venture. The Haynes manual states that the engine comes out through the bottom side of the vehicle.

The manual warns that the major deterrent on this job for the home mechanic is getting the vehicle high enough to gain the required clearance to slide the engine along with the front sub-frame out from under the vehicle.

So I was wondering if any of you have performed this job at home without the luxury of a vehicle lift/hoist. I would be interested to hear any methods or techniques any of you have used to replace an engine on a Venture van.

I need to do a head gasket job on my 98 112,000 mile Venture and I fear that damage was done to the bearings so I would like to just pull the engine out so I can check for other damage and thoroughly clean the engine of sludge/coolant-oil mix or may just need another engine.

For the last month we have been dealing with erratic engine temperatures and noticed the coolant was low. After adding coolant the temperature is normal for about 3 days of driving to work and misc in town. (About 50-70 miles) I saw no external leaks and saw no obvious signs it is burning out the exhaust and the engine oil looks good with no water droplets and level is not high so it appeared that the coolant was not going into the oil.

The intake gaskets and all of the lifters were replaced at 88,000 miles by a dealership and they reinstalled the orange type fluid. I have been adding prestone anti-freeze that says can be mixed with any color or types of antifreeze…..you guys ever use this stuff?

After a couple of weeks of adding a quart of coolant every 3 days we acquired an inconsistent tappet noise (sounded high like excessive rocker arm lash) that would go away after a few minutes of running The engine also runs rough when first starts but then smoothes out after a minute and seems to coincide with the tappet noise. The tappet noise does occur only when cold starting but is sporadic and not occurring on every cold start.

And now for the Grand Finale……….. my wife came home the other night and said that now the engine oil light came on. I went out to check the oil and no oil registered on the stick. I pulled the oil filler cap and discovered that all the oil is in the top of the engine and not draining back to the pan. I stuck a screwdriver in the oil filler and found a thin oil/coolant mix around 3” deep. The odd thing is that the stuff that drains back to the pan has the look of fresh oil right after an oil change. It looks like the 3 part combination of orange coolant, supposed universal coolant and engine oil mixes without any separation droplets and has a very clear look as opposed to looking like other coolant/oil contaminated cocktails that have an appearance more like melted coffee ice-cream

That is why it fooled me, because it LOOKED like good oil but I should have felt it with my fingers because it has a distinctly sticky/gummy feel that I may have noticed as something being wrong.

I exprenced the same thing. But the oil level did the opposite.I had the same tapping sounds i woul run an oil addative through it. It would help for a while then start again.Then later the check engine light came on. It had over 100k on it so i just figured it was a milage thing a few days later my wife was driving to work and oil light came on.I checked the oil it was way high on the stick.Which i knew was wrong cause i just changed the oil my self and left it a quart low.So i pulled it home pulled the oil plug and it has brass shavings in the oil.The engine want even run it cranks but jumps around and want idle.I am planning to replace the engine but pay someone.I do shade tree work on my own stuff but the motor comes out the bottom and thats just to much for me.Accadents cost money.If something sliped and got hurt i couldint work no work no money.

I will make this short as I can.I have been a tech for 23 years so I would just like to give you a few thoughts. Just because the intake was done does not mean a thing. There are way to many variables involved with these bad boys.You may have had a tech that was not that informed of these engines or having a bad day or a bad gasket set.Lot's involved here. Sounds like they are bad again. I have found that you can almost expect a lifter noise with the 3100 or 3400. I would do the intakes again and do real good engine flush,coolant and oil, then roll the dice.I would not even consider the idea of doing this at home. If you are really interested in doing this yourself you had better have a real big tool box and a whole lot of time.The motor/trans/sub-frame has to come out of the rig. Rough guess,the front bumber will have to be about 5.5-6 ft off the ground.Then you have to get it out from under the rig.I strongly suggest you re-consider.Can it be done at home? Without a doubt.You had better be more stubborn than I am and have more patience than Gahndi.

I will make this short as I can.I have been a tech for 23 years so I would just like to give you a few thoughts. Just because the intake was done does not mean a thing. There are way to many variables involved with these bad boys.You may have had a tech that was not that informed of these engines or having a bad day or a bad gasket set.Lot's involved here. Sounds like they are bad again. I have found that you can almost expect a lifter noise with the 3100 or 3400. I would do the intakes again and do real good engine flush,coolant and oil, then roll the dice.I would not even consider the idea of doing this at home. If you are really interested in doing this yourself you had better have a real big tool box and a whole lot of time.The motor/trans/sub-frame has to come out of the rig. Rough guess,the front bumber will have to be about 5.5-6 ft off the ground.Then you have to get it out from under the rig.I strongly suggest you re-consider.Can it be done at home? Without a doubt.You had better be more stubborn than I am and have more patience than Gahndi.
Hey I am planning on installing a reman long block in my chevy venture will this escape the problems with overheating blowing gaskets?

Not only is that a thread jack but it is a very loaded question.If you ask 10 guys you will get at leats 8 diff answers.I don't think any one will cure the 3100/3400 intake issue.

...I am planning on installing a reman long block in my chevy venture .
Just to paint the picture, this is List of "ingredients" here (taken from Transport '93 shop manual..but this is very close):
www.avigex.ca/xport/trans1.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/trans2.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/trans3.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/trans4.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/trans5.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/4T60photo.jpg

If you decide to swap out your Venture motor at home in driveway at least please video the the swap. Not really being a smrtazz here,IF it works out for you, you could help out alot of people.

I have pulled these engine out thru the hood...
You have to disassemble the top end (intake and heads) and the shortblock will come out the top.
Either way, not a job for the timid or weak of heart.

I have pulled these engine out thru the hood... .
Interesting....is that a choice due to circumstances or a real time and chore saving? GIven the headache just to get the rear plugs, I'm just amazed one can get all the bolts off the rear head!

i just removed a venture engine threw the top. without removing the heads or intake. you will need to remove the front exhaust manifold, top part of the intake. alternator, both rear manifold studs, oxygen sensor, coil pack. and that provides just enough clearance with a little wiggling. was out, and in, the same day

I know this is a old thread but I found it on a search. But just to let everyone know you can go out the bottom with the motor at home. It wasn't to bad. Just got to use smarts.

...and...what happens next ???? (more pics...)

Sorry thats all the pics, but I set the sub frame down on ply wood and pull it from under the van. Its so much easier to work out in the open. Then I pulled it back under the van, and it bolted right up no problems.

Getting that cradle back up there and aligned right, is no easy feat......

That wasn't to bad for me. Mine went right in. I got it close side to side then I had 3 jacks and I lined it up by jacking one side more than the other. once you got 1 stared the rest just fall in.
The worst for me was screwing the power steering hard lines in the steering. It took longer than putting the cradle back in.

Then Leroy, you da Man!!!:smokin: