okeay, heres what happened. i got an oil cooler and an oil filter relocation kit.
i jacked up the car, took the bumber off, unhooked the front mount, mounted the oil cooler behind the front mount and in front of the radiator.when it cam time to put that plate down where the oil filter originally goes( u all know its damn near impossible to get to) i decided to take off the alternator. ther was one small ground and one bigger ground wire, i took those off. there was also one clip that came from the wiring harness. i took that off too.(before taking these off i unhooked the battery). i took off the alternator, put that adapter on where the oil filter originally goes and then had all the oil linces and filter and everything connected. i then put the alternator back in. made sure the belt was tight. made sure that i put those two ground wires and that clip from the wiring harness back into the alternator.i hooked the battery back up. put the front mount back on. then i hooked up my oil temp and pressure sensores. they went into the oil filter adapter. i already had wires coming from the guages as they were previously set up, then i grounded the sensors. then i started it up, it was fine, no leaks, it built up pressure, no problems until i went to turn it off to check the oil again. i turned the ignition and pulled the key completly out. but the car didnt shut off. the only way i could get it to shut off was to pull out the fuel pump fuse. and then after that i had to disconnect the battery becuase ther were still lights on in the guage cluster and the seatbelt would still go back and forth. after i unhooked the battery, i would hook it back up but the non of the lights would work like they were before i unhooked it.
i dont know what i could have fucked up, it seemed pretty simple but if anybody knows anything about what could have caused this please let me know.
if you any questions about what was done just ask

thanks

how are your fuses?

Hmm...2 grounds coming from alternater? i would check them to make sure one isnt a positive

anyhoo, triple check yo wiring, i am sure you got a short somewhere

i cant find anything wrong with the fuses. im not 100% sure that both those wires on the alternator are grounds. they are both black wires. one is a little larger then the other. and they both have that circle on the end, the little one has a bolt that goes through it that screws on the alternator and the bigger one slides over a bolt already fastened to the alternator and has a nut that goes on ever that to keep it on. either way they were both ther and on the exact same same before i took it off, so i dont know how it could be a problem.
does anybody know what happens when the ignition is turned off. what causes it to shut down the car. i know that when i pull the key out, the car still runs, i get out and pull the fuel pump fuse to kill the motor, but with the key still out there is still power to some things such as the windows, headlights, seatbelts and what not. but ther is no power to the stereo or my guages that are tapped into the cigarette lighter fuse. so i get out and disconnect the batery. i can then connect it back up immediatly without the power comming back on. im kthinking that ther is something that is keeping the power on when i take the key out ut i have no idea what it could be.

ther is also that one wiring clip that i believe comes from the wiring harness, again i just put it back where it was before i took it out, but i double checked it to make sure that i pushed it in all the way but still no luck.

ok ok , when the car is running, remove the key. it should stay running as u said.
now, remove the battery weirs, if the motor dose NOt die, then ur alternator is the problem. so check the weirs on it
if u remove the battery and the motor dies, then its a short in the fuse box (the circuit is connected and it by passed the ignition cut off)

i disconnected the battery with the key out but it didnt do anything. but i dont know how the alternator is the problem. i would understand if their was something not telling the alternator to shut off but when i pull the fuel fuse and kill the motor, the alternator wouldnt be generating any power because the motor isnt running. but ther is still power to just about everything else in the car after i take the key outy and kill the motor. im fuckin lost with this

i disconnected the battery with the key out but it didnt do anything.

SIMPLE! u have a short!!! something is by passing the ignition switch!
here is what happens when u start the car.

key turned 1 click: accessories
key turned to the 2nd click: fuel is pressurized
key turned to 3rd click: flywheel starts and ignition sequence commence.

when u turn off the car:
2click to 1st click: the ignition sequence terminates (no spark, no fuel)

note the 3rd click is temporally, till the flywheel turns the motor over.
once the motor turns over, it sustain its self till the spark is cut off via the ignition switch.

what u have is a short that is by passing the ignition switch, hence u have fuel and spark. Moreover when u killed the fuel pump, u still had accessories ON. so the ignition switch is not acting right!

SHECK THE EGNISION SWITCH!

that does make sense but not all accessories is on. the stereo and the power to light up my guages wont work after i kill the motor. both of wich should work with the rest of the accessories. wich leads me to believe that the ignition is fine. but then again i cant figure it out so i dont realy know

that does make sense but not all accessories is on. the stereo and the power to light up my guages wont work after i kill the motor.

now its a good time to trace ur work back. remove the electricla portion of ur install. (disconnect the wiers to the sensors, and remove the wiers, keep the oil cooler ofcourse!)
if the cars shuts off, then that is ur problem.

i already had the guages installed previously with the sensor wires just waiting for the sensors. everything worked fine then. the only thing i added was hooking up the sensors and grounding them. i already tried removing the ground for the sensors but did nothing. other than that the only wiring i did was disconnecting the battery and the 3 things that go to the alternator. i didnt fuck with anything else. this seems like its too simple to fuck up, but somethins fucked up.
im hopin nassanfanatic's got somethin for me, lol.

i just tried completly unhooking the sensors but no luck

there is a wire clip that goes into the alternator, when i unplug that, start the car, and then disconnect the battery, it dies. but it wont die while it is plugged in.

I think a positive wire has been earthed somewhere

figured it out. it was the ignition relay. i didnt even know their was one. it is located behind all the small fuses that are next to the clutch on the driver side. now i just need to figure out why it went bad. i bought a new one, its not exactly the same, the dealer says that this one succeads the old one but it is the same thing. problem was that when i put it in,ttried to start it, it sputtered a little then just wouldnt start. im not sure if the relay is the wrong one, if it was just a bad relay, or if my car fucked it up somehow. i think the problem with the old one is that when the power is turned on, the relay gets stuck and that is why it wont turn off. im going to have a friend come over and try to check the voltage running through ther to see if something is fucked up. i dont realy know too much about that shit. here is one question though. how important is it to have that relay in ther? because when i have it in, it starts but wont shut off. when i have it out, it starts and shuts off just fine. but i dont want to fuck anything up by not having it in.

those two wires you pulled off the alternator are both positive wires. if you got them switched, the alternator would keep powering your car no matter what the key does. one wire is constant power and one is switched power.
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570

if this link doesnt work let me know. ill copy and paste.

you cant really get them switched, one is bigger and one is smaller, the bigger one uses a nut and has a rubber cover over the connection, and the smaller one uses a bolt that goes into the alternator.

the link asks for a log in and password

ok thats what i thought. heres the contents...
http://www.alldatapro.com/images/blnk_spc.gifhttp://www.alldatapro.com/images/g_angle.gifhttp://www.alldatapro.com/images/blnk_spc.gifConversion Calculator (javascript:calcWindow()) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/blnk_spc.gif 1995 Nissan-Datsun Sentra L4-1998cc 2.0L DOHC MFI (SR20DE)

Vehicle Level (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/a_003366.gif Starting and Charging (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/a_003366.gif Charging System (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/a_003366.gif Alternator (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/arrow1.gif Testing and Inspection (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570) http://www.alldatapro.com/images/arrow2.gifhttp://www.alldatapro.com/images/blnk_spc.gifTesting and InspectionNotes (javascript:notesWindow('http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OF34~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570/105992026'))
Turn ignition switch (http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OD~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/100410301/34863733) to on position and note charge lamp.
If lamp lights proceed to step 7. If lamp does not light proceed to next step.
Disconnect two wire connectors labeled S and L, then using a jumper wire connect L terminal to a suitable ground. Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Hitachi Alternatorhttp://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570/105992026/42166098
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Mitsubishi Alternatorhttp://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570/105992026/42166099


If charge lamp lights proceed to next step. If lamp does not light the bulb in the instrument cluster is defective. Steps 5 and 6 do not apply to models equipped with Mitsubishi alternators. On these models, if charge lamp lights, the internal regulator or some other internal component is defective and the alternator must be removed for bench testing. Refer to Figs. 1 and 2 for alternator identification. Fig. 3 Grounding ``F'' Terminal At Rear Of Alternatorhttp://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V35667564~C21769~R0~OB0~P3R0H~N/0/41746505/56622475/56623172/56623174/34853741/34863246/34863337/34863338/34863570/105992026/42288740


Reconnect two wire connectors, then insert a short stiff length of wire through the access hole at back of alternator until it contacts outer brush. Ground other end of wire to alternator case which will actually ground the F terminal internally, Fig. 3 .
If charge lamp remains lit, the internal regulator is defective and will require disassembly of the alternator for repair. If lamp goes out, some other internal component is defective therefore alternator must be removed for bench testing.
With engine idling if charge lamp is lit, a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If the charge lamp is not lit, proceed to next step.
With engine speed at 1500 RPM and head lights on, if charge lamp is not lit proceed to next step. If lamp is lit dimly, let engine idle and measure voltage across B and L terminals. If voltage is more than 0.5 volts a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If voltage is less than 0.5 volts, alternator if considered to be in satisfactory condition.
With engine at 1500 RPM measure voltage at B terminal, making sure S terminal is properly connected.
If voltage reading is above 15.5 volts, the internal regulator is faulty and requires removal of alternator for replacement. If voltage reading is between 13 and 15 volts proceed to next step.
With engine idling and head lights on, if charge lamp is lit a defective internal component exists in the alternator and requires removal for bench testing. If charge lamp is not lit, alternator is considered to be in satisfactory condition.




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oh and your other question, a relay is simply a switch thats activated by voltage instead of mechanically.

im pretty convinced its not the alternotor, i feel confident its the ignition relay. ive had the car running with the key out, and id be down tinkering with all the fuses and id hear a click, kind of like a switch, and then tthe car and the power would turn off like it shoulda been.

right now, i have the igition relay out and the cr starts and shuts off fine. im just worried that it might fuck something up because im sure the relay is ther for a reason. but its wierd because when the normal one is in ther, it starts but dont shut off, when i put the new one i got from the dealer, it wouldnt start, and without any, it works fine.
i dont realy know what to make of it

i just tried to roll my windows up but they wont work without that relay in, but everything else seems to work

how important is it to have that relay in ther? because when i have it in, it starts but wont shut off. when i have it out, it starts and shuts off just fine. but i dont want to fuck anything up by not having it in.

relay is a switch bro that is controled via another electrical circuit. if the relay is damaged it will NOT switch back off or on , hence the motor will NOT shot off.

with the new relay the car would still stay on?????

this thing happened to my buddies ford escort lol. It did the same shit. We simply replaced the relay like you did and it fixed the problem. So thats odd that your new relay didnt do the trick. Unless there's 2 relays?? I dunno, im not good with wiring type stuff. But i know thats what we did to fix his car.

yea, without any relay in, it will start, shut off, and all the power goes off too. the only thing that ive found that dont work is the windows, but i didnt try anything. i don realy know what was up with the new relay. it wasnt the exact same one. they said that the one they gave me replaced the one i had but its still the same. i know ther are different numbers on ther. when u look at the top, you'll see the circuits adn ther are numbers on the ends, the nubers where completly different. i dont know what those number mean but the guy at the dealership says that it dont matter. i was wonderig if my car might have shorted it out, but i kind of thought that if that was the case, it probably would have done the same thing to my old one. i got the dealership to replace the relay so we can see if it was just a bad one but they wont have one until monday. plus i got to wait until about tuesday to get my new oil cooler. i found out that it was leaking from the inside of the cooler. but i didnt have no probs getting a new one. the customer service with summit was awsome. ill let you guys know what happens when i get the new relay(again).

i havent got the new relay back from the dealership yet. gonna pick one up from awdsr20. anyways, tonigh i was getting out of my car to grab a pair of plyers to pull the fuel pump fuse to kill the motor after taking it for a test run and as i was getting out i noticed the cruise control light on down ther on that button. that little green light. this was after i pulled my key out and the car was still running. dont realy know why but i pushed it to turn it off and it shut the car off. i tried to turn it off while the key is in the ignition and the car is running but the light wont go away, but when i pull the key out, the motor will still be on, i push that button and it shuts it off. WTF?
i'll see what happens after i pick up this relay from awdsr20

i decided to take it to the dealership and have them fix it. 40 min later i get a call telling me that i have a japanese motor in my car and they dont know how to work on it. so i ended up taking it to some electric auto repair shop.

its finally fixed. turned out it had nothing to do with any relays or fuses. ther was a bad ground connection that needed to be cleaned and the cruise control button went out and the guy was saying something about how that also worked towards fucking up the ground for the car or something.
this mexican had my shit fixed in like 30 min. i was thinkin shit, i just spent the last week and a half on it and i was way off.

lol I hate those easy fixes.

LOL, well at least it was easy!