This will be the second resistor pack I've put into this car in the last 2 years. This time it's a little different though.

Fan speeds 1-4 do not work, 5 does, but, in addition to the fan not working correctly, the "output selector" (windshield defrost, feet, dash, etc. blower selector thinger on the right) is not working.

No matter which setting I turn the selector to, it blows out ALL possible areas not allowing me to direct the air. This wouldn't be so bad if Winter hadn't come early and I didn't need to defrost my windshield.

Will replacing the resistor pack fix this other issue?

The air distrubution problem could be a broken/disconnected vacuum line running along near the battery to the firewall. The resistiors have recently been redesigned to help alleviate them burning out. The other possibility is the HVAC control head itself is bad, causing both issues.

The air distrubution problem could be a broken/disconnected vacuum line running along near the battery to the firewall. The resistiors have recently been redesigned to help alleviate them burning out. The other possibility is the HVAC control head itself is bad, causing both issues.

what's a HVAC control head, could that be my problem on an 04?

the control is the actual part in the dash with all the knobs and switches.

The air distrubution problem could be a broken/disconnected vacuum line running along near the battery to the firewall. The resistiors have recently been redesigned to help alleviate them burning out. The other possibility is the HVAC control head itself is bad, causing both issues.

Wow!!! The funny thing is I've been having an intermittent "vacuum problem" with my engine (high-idling). If the vacuum control to the knob is disconnected or broken, could it also cause a vacuum leak to the engine itself? It would be nice to kill two birds with one stone here.

( i replaced the PCV valve, some other sensor and checked the intake manifold for vacuum leaks- all with no positive results )

Wow!!! The funny thing is I've been having an intermittent "vacuum problem" with my engine (high-idling). If the vacuum control to the knob is disconnected or broken, could it also cause a vacuum leak to the engine itself? It would be nice to kill two birds with one stone here.

( i replaced the PCV valve, some other sensor and checked the intake manifold for vacuum leaks- all with no positive results )

The vacuum line runs along the passenger side wheelwell, and is made of hard plastic, so check for cracks in the line itself as well as loose connections at the manifold and the rubber boots where they connect together.

The vacuum line runs along the passenger side wheelwell, and is made of hard plastic, so check for cracks in the line itself as well as loose connections at the manifold and the rubber boots where they connect together.

Ok then. I'll take a look around. Thanks for the help!

I have a "98 GT with a 3800 and am having a similar problem, but here is what I have noticed and already done.
At this time if I don't turn on the fan motor the rear window defroster works. If I turn on the fan the rear window defroster dosen't work and the automatic lights that come on when you turn on the iginition go dim. The A/C light on the control panel will light dim and the fan will not work. The A/C compressor doen not engage.
If I disconnect the fan and "turn on the fan", the rear window defroster works, the auto lights don't go dim, I can hear the A/C compressor come on when I command it to.
I have replaced the control module, then the fan and blower motor resisitor pack.
It would do some silghtly different things as I changed parts, but the symptome basically stayed the same.
Any help????
Thanks.

I have a "98 GT with a 3800 and am having a similar problem, but here is what I have noticed and already done.
At this time if I don't turn on the fan motor the rear window defroster works. If I turn on the fan the rear window defroster dosen't work and the automatic lights that come on when you turn on the iginition go dim. The A/C light on the control panel will light dim and the fan will not work. The A/C compressor doen not engage.
If I disconnect the fan and "turn on the fan", the rear window defroster works, the auto lights don't go dim, I can hear the A/C compressor come on when I command it to.
I have replaced the control module, then the fan and blower motor resisitor pack.
It would do some silghtly different things as I changed parts, but the symptome basically stayed the same.
Any help????
Thanks.

Welcome to AF.

There is a high probability you have a flaky ignition switch and harness assembly. Common problem and your symptoms are consistent with it.

could this be the same issue causing thehissing sound in my dash

sprink2261, I agree with bnaylor on your issue. You have every symptom of a bad ignition switch/harness assembly.

rubberman, I would say not. The hissing noise would indicate a vacuum leak under the dash instead of under the hood like I suggested to Tungsram. There are vacuum operated actuators under the dash that control the mode, fresh-air/recirculation and defrost blend doors on your car that are most likely your hissing issue.

Thanks for the input. Having an air bag, I guess this is something Iwill need to take to a dealer? I've replaced turn signal/wiper assemblies that are on the steering column, but with the air bag I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. Thanks again for the info. This forum was a great help and will use it in the future as needed.

Thanks for the input. Having an air bag, I guess this is something Iwill need to take to a dealer? I've replaced turn signal/wiper assemblies that are on the steering column, but with the air bag I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. Thanks again for the info. This forum was a great help and will use it in the future as needed.

If you have done a multifunction switch then the ignition switch will not be a problem DIY but it is tedious. We have old posts with the step by step procedure. Just do a search.

All you need to do is pull the airbag fuse for safety and the steering wheel does not need to be removed.

However, if you are uncertain then have a shop or dealer do it for you. The ignition switch and harness is around $100.

Labor costs will vary.

Wow!!! That is good for me.
I'll search it out and see how complicated it looks.
Thanks again!!

Wow!!! That is good for me.
I'll search it out and see how complicated it looks.
Thanks again!!

Just in case here is the R&R procedure for the ignition switch. Good luck.

General Procedure Covers '97 - '03 Grand Prix. May be some minor variances.

BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.

Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.

Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.

Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.

Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.

The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.

Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.

Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.

Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.

There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.

Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.

To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.

I wanted to wait until I completed project before I responded.
All went as instructions except I was never able to remove tumbler from column and the switch that "chimes" when key is left installed seemed to be different from the replacement harness I got from dealership. So I cut wires that were on the installed switch and soldered in the new assembly.
I could tell that the switch had its wires cut and soldered back at an earlier time.
We got this vehicle with 40K miles on it. It now has 100K miles on it. Is this one of those things that is going to come around again, or has there been a change with the replacement assembly so this won't happen later.
Looks like to me that the contacts heat up which let the springs melt into the plastic, which results in a high resistance situation on the contacts, which causes the springs and contacts to heat up more and it get worst from there?
At least I now know what to look for.
Thanks for the help!!
I spent some time and saved a bunch in labor at a dealership.
BTW I just got a 1987 ELKY!!
Few small issues, but a solid body, engine, and frame!!
Thanks again,
Sprink.

I wanted to wait until I completed project before I responded.
All went as instructions except I was never able to remove tumbler from column and the switch that "chimes" when key is left installed seemed to be different from the replacement harness I got from dealership. So I cut wires that were on the installed switch and soldered in the new assembly.
I could tell that the switch had its wires cut and soldered back at an earlier time.
We got this vehicle with 40K miles on it. It now has 100K miles on it. Is this one of those things that is going to come around again, or has there been a change with the replacement assembly so this won't happen later.
Looks like to me that the contacts heat up which let the springs melt into the plastic, which results in a high resistance situation on the contacts, which causes the springs and contacts to heat up more and it get worst from there?
At least I now know what to look for.
Thanks for the help!!
I spent some time and saved a bunch in labor at a dealership.
BTW I just got a 1987 ELKY!!
Few small issues, but a solid body, engine, and frame!!
Thanks again,
Sprink.
Forgot to mention:
all is as it should be and back to normal operation

And when I was trying to remove tumbler assembly I used the key with no plastic molded on the end (vallet key) of it. Could this have caused the tumbler to not disengage on the disassembly process? Just thought about it and thought it might have had an impact.
Thanks again for the help,
Sprink

I tried to resopnd before but it didn't seem to go through.
I must have done something wrong.
I replaced switch/harness and all os good now.
2 questions:
1.