96 S10 stopped running

I have cleaned the EGR and replaced the fuel filter. It will run when primed. There is pressure on the injectors. The fuses are fine. I'm stuck without my manual. What should I try next?

You really need to know whether or not the injectors are firing.

How do I do that?

96 S10 V6 Vortec stopped running. Instead of guessing and leaving a half finished thread with no answer, let's do this step by step. The obvious thing is to check for fuel and fire. I took off the air tube from the throttle body and squirted starter fluid in. It started and ran for about 3 seconds. That means there is fire to the plugs. I took off the cover to the schrader valve on the back right of the engine and pressed the valve. It squirted out fuel. I changed the fuel filter anyway because it is easy and always a good idea. I did notice that the radio had a popping sound to it even with the volume down. The fuel pump does hum and the relay clicks when i turn on the ignition. What's next? Don't just make a WAG.

Is it throttle body injection or CPI?

Is it throttle body injection or CPI?

Dude, stop right there, if you don't know what fuel injection system is on a 1996 4.3L engine has I suggest you don't give advice on how to fix it.

Just because you have fuel at the schrader valve doesn't mean you have the proper pressure to make the engine run..fuel pressure on this truck should be 60-66 psi
I would check the pressure...just my WAG

I've done both, I'm assuming it's CPI, but I'd rather know. I am a cert. mechanic, you know. I think you need to stop attacking my every post..
Thank you..

Okay, girls, life's too short. When I squirt starting fluid in the throttle body, it runs for about 3 seconds.

Ah, so more than likely the injectors aren't firing. This could be caused by a blown fuel inj. fuse, but I'm guessing the camshaft position sensor could be bad. Did it run until you shut it off and now it won't start? If so, that's likely to be the cam sensor.

It was running fine. Going down da road, don't ya know. It quit. It cranks just fine and runs for a few seconds when primed.

Hmm, it may not be the CMP. If it went out, it would continue running until you shut it off, according to my manual. Lemme do some research..Anyone else have any ideas?

It was running fine. Going down da road, don't ya know. It quit. It cranks just fine and runs for a few seconds when primed.

Check fuel pressure.

Should be 61-66psi with the key set to on for the prime.

Also, check your alternator and battery output, bad alt or a shorted out battery can lead to the fuel pump not getting enough current and therefore can't keep the right pressure going to the injection system.

Also, you have a CSFI injection system. Central Sequencial Fuel Injection.

I think you have a plugged fuel filter or your fuel pump is almost shot.

If you have a voltmeter, disconnect the 3 wire connector on the distributor. One end is ground and the other should have battery voltage. The center wire is the CMP signal, and should switch from 0 to 12volts while cranking(When connector is plugged up).

I replaced the fuel pump a few months ago. I changed the filter before I started troubleshooting.
when this happened before, it was the EGR and I removed and cleaned it. I've done that maybe three times before. I've run down the battery trying to start it. So, I've jumped it and let it charge. The fule pump "seems" to be running normal. I will get a pressure guage tomorrow, but the pressure at the valve seems substantial. I will also check the voltage.

What kind of fuel pump did you install.

If it is a carter than I know where the problem is.

I seem to remember going through that when I replaced it. Someone in this forum said the same thing. I doubt I can tell you for sure without a lot of trouble. I'm pretty sure I took the advice and replaced it with the proper one.

I seem to remember going through that when I replaced it. Someone in this forum said the same thing. I doubt I can tell you for sure without a lot of trouble. I'm pretty sure I took the advice and replaced it with the proper one.

So you don't know what make of fuel pump you used?

Dude, stop right there, if you don't know what fuel injection system is on a 1996 4.3L engine has I suggest you don't give advice on how to fix it.

In some years, BOTH systems were available. Rather than pull out the manuals for every thread posted, it might be better to train posters to include whatever relevant information there may be to avoid confusion and speed the process. It's just good policy, and it was a legitimate question.

I have less than 15 psi on the injector. Guess I will pull the pump.

In some years, BOTH systems were available. Rather than pull out the manuals for every thread posted, it might be better to train posters to include whatever relevant information there may be to avoid confusion and speed the process. It's just good policy, and it was a legitimate question.


1996+ was CSFI.

CPI and TBI were only available till 1995. The CPI only existed from 1992-1995.

I work on so many different makes/models in one day, I have to ask. I shouldn't be expected to know every detail about every vehicle make off the top of my head, that's why I have Mitchell and other various repair programs! ;) So, sorry if I freaked out, I've been stretched thin as paper lately..

vaughnj, I'd say you found your problem..

I work on so many different makes/models in one day, I have to ask. I shouldn't be expected to know every detail about every vehicle make off the top of my head, that's why I have Mitchell and other various repair programs! ;) So, sorry if I freaked out, I've been stretched thin as paper lately..

vaughnj, I'd say you found your problem..

No worries, just staving off any more confusion. ;)

Use a noid light this plugs into the injector harness and check if it blinks. Check fuses in underhood electrical center and fuse panel. Check fuel pump relay ground left of starter. Fuel pump ground lower left B-pillar.
Auto zone or advance will check your module free. Use an ohm meter check crankshaft sensor. An ohm meter will go from zero to one when you crank.
Check camshaft possition sensor the same way.

I was indeed the fuel pump. What a pain to change. Up and running fine, thanks to you guys.

Let me guess, the bad pump was a Carter?

Nope. It was an Airtex. I don't know who makes it. Probably Carter.

Hmm, I thought Airtex was a good brand. I was thinking about using their brand when I change my pump out. How long did it last? I guess I'll stick with the overpriced Bosch..

EDIT: Airtex is made by United Components, Inc. whoever that is..

It lasted about 2 years. The replacement cost me $78. I couldn't find a Bosch.

Guess what. It stopped running again. I had to jump it, but it started yesterday and I let it run for about an hour. I killed it, and started it back up. I had to leave it there overnight. I went back to it today. The battery was dead, but it jump started just fine. I moved it and killed it out of habit. A few minutes later I tried to start it. No go. I jumped it again, but still no start. I can't hear the pump running when I turn the ignition on. What now?

comon man, start thinking a bit, you drained the battery, then you start it and kill it after a bit and it won't start.

Of course it won't start, you are running A DEAD BATTERY.

Take the battery out and charge it separately with an automatic charger.

How do you expect a fuel pump to prime completely with a dead battery. Your alternator is not a charger, and you can't just run the engine for a bit and think it is charged up.

Check the fuel pump relay they stick sometimes this may be why the battery ran down. On my silverado the fuel pump relay is the same number as the air cond relay. This would be a quick test swap relays and see if they work. You might have a loose fuel pump ground. On the 3.4 it is on the lower left b-pillar.
Relay underhood elect center.

How many volts/amps do you think my battery will show when it's jumped to a running vehicle? Unless the pump requires more than 750 amps, it should at least sound like it's pumping. I think the ground thing is a likely candidate. I will check it out.

How many volts/amps do you think my battery will show when it's jumped to a running vehicle? Unless the pump requires more than 750 amps, it should at least sound like it's pumping. I think the ground thing is a likely candidate. I will check it out.

You have to realise that you can't drain a battery, boost it and have it idle for a couple minutes and be up to charge. You drained it dead, and it will take hours to charge up properly and to provide the proper amperage to get the pump running.

Charge the battery with the connections attached and go from there.

You don't get it. I installed the new pump. Wouldn't crank because of battery. I jumped it and it started. I drove it a bit and killed it. It started right back up. I had to leave it there overnight. When I came back the next day, I had to jump it again (not hard to understand) and it started right back up. I drove it about 200 yards to where I had to load some stuff in it and killed it by habit (or I would have just let it run). After I loaded it, I tried to start it (with a jump) and nothing. Not even the pump sound. I put the gauge back on the valve and it wouldn't read any pressure at all. I charged the battery but still nothing. I rotated the relays and still nothing. I checked the pump ground and it was still tight. Tomorrow I will pull the pump again and see what I can.

I would check the fuses before pulling the pump?? I would also check for 12V and a good ground at the fuel tank/fuel pump wiring connector.

Is it a carter pump?

I looked yesterday and new delco complete units were $125.00 if you have 12volt and ground to tht pump. I would run two wires from the battery for the test.

I really wanted to create a good diagnosis for others to follow. Sorry, I pulled the new pump and it was fried. I put the old one back in and hauled to my mechanic. I will let you know what happens there.

I really wanted to create a good diagnosis for others to follow. Sorry, I pulled the new pump and it was fried. I put the old one back in and hauled to my mechanic. I will let you know what happens there.

Can you answer me.....

Was it a new Carter pump you installed?

your s10 will quit running if it is low on oil. this is a failsafe built into all new cars and trucks. the pump pressure may read fine but thats only the pump pressure they dont indicate low oil volume the slightest grade or running with the motor warmed up with most of the oil in circulation with low volume will tell the computer to shut off the motor. that would be my easiest fix.top off the oil.

Can you answer me.....

Was it a new Carter pump you installed?
Its very possible the ground is loose for the pump.

Gentlemen, Your responding to a very old posting backing in 2006. Check the posting date before replying. Just trying to save you time.