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96 jimmy long start


mywintertruck
10-09-2006, 12:27 PM
hi again. once again i searched and didnt find anything related to my problem. this has been happing almost a year now. when we start the truck cold or even ten minutes after it has been driven for awhile, it seeems to take like anywhere from 5 to 12 seconds to start. however every once in a great while when then engine is warm and its hot outside it will start right up. we replaced the fuel filter this summer thinking it was that.. nope. i dont think its the fuel pump because it runs perfect after its started, plus i would think it would have taken a crap on me in the past year. i could be wrong about the pump, but hopefully not. someone said maybe a fuel pressure regulator?
i have no clue what that is, or where its at. if anyone knows from experience about this or knows whats wrong, pls let me know.

thanks
phil

Robert72380
10-11-2006, 07:21 AM
Ok I really can't help you there but I can tell you that I have the same problem but it got worse last night. First of all had pully go bad on the alt. so replaced alt. Everything fine until I decide to floor it to test it out and the truck took off when it hit 45 mph the new alt died (I think) Voltage dropped to 12 and battery light came on and the truck wouldn't go past 45 mph no matter how much gas I gave it. At first I thought it was the fuel pump but was told it couldn't be it. After last night thought it was electrical but now think the power loss has nothing to do with truck bogging down could it be the fuel pressure regulator? I have a chilton manual but it really doesn't help with troubleshooting especially since my check engine light isn't on.

Robert72380
10-11-2006, 07:26 AM
fuel pressure regulator is under the upper intake manifold assembly

Robert72380
10-11-2006, 07:27 AM
Ok I really can't help you there but I can tell you that I have the same problem but it got worse last night. First of all had pully go bad on the alt. so replaced alt. Everything fine until I decide to floor it to test it out and the truck took off when it hit 45 mph the new alt died (I think) Voltage dropped to 12 and battery light came on and the truck wouldn't go past 45 mph no matter how much gas I gave it. At first I thought it was the fuel pump but was told it couldn't be it. After last night thought it was electrical but now think the power loss has nothing to do with truck bogging down could it be the fuel pressure regulator? I have a chilton manual but it really doesn't help with troubleshooting especially since my check engine light isn't on.

BlazerLT
10-11-2006, 07:45 AM
How about doing a tuneup?

Cap & Rotor
AC Delco Platinum Plugs
Plug Wires
PCV valve
Air Filter

Those are more than likely your problem.

Robert72380
10-11-2006, 08:22 AM
I see where you are coming from there but if it needed tune up wouldn't it give more of a warning before it basically crapped out? I have had vehicals that needed tune ups and none of them acted like this.

MT-2500
10-11-2006, 08:38 AM
I see where you are coming from there but if it needed tune up wouldn't it give more of a warning before it basically crapped out? I have had vehicals that needed tune ups and none of them acted like this.

As said tune up is first place to start.
How many miles on tune up and what engine?
Also

Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.
MT

Robert72380
10-11-2006, 09:36 AM
thats all good man but my starting problem wasn't as bad as his, mine would only be a problem when it was not ran for over 8 hours and recently it had gotten better up until last night the truck ran fine. Any ideas as to what could have failed to make the truck suddenly run like crap? My engine is the 4.3 V6 W code. Like I said it may even an electrical since I floored it and both the alt. crapped out the same time the truck bogged down. And I know the alt didn't cause it to bog down because I have driven it with a bad alt before.

MT-2500
10-11-2006, 09:44 AM
thats all good man but my starting problem wasn't as bad as his, mine would only be a problem when it was not ran for over 8 hours and recently it had gotten better up until last night the truck ran fine. Any ideas as to what could have failed to make the truck suddenly run like crap? My engine is the 4.3 V6 W code. Like I said it may even an electrical since I floored it and both the alt. crapped out the same time the truck bogged down. And I know the alt didn't cause it to bog down because I have driven it with a bad alt before.



How is your tune up end?
On fuel pressure it needs proper testing along with proper tune up.
MT

BlazerLT
10-11-2006, 10:09 AM
thats all good man but my starting problem wasn't as bad as his, mine would only be a problem when it was not ran for over 8 hours and recently it had gotten better up until last night the truck ran fine. Any ideas as to what could have failed to make the truck suddenly run like crap? My engine is the 4.3 V6 W code. Like I said it may even an electrical since I floored it and both the alt. crapped out the same time the truck bogged down. And I know the alt didn't cause it to bog down because I have driven it with a bad alt before.

Seriously, why are you asking us again when we have already posed what to do?

Do a tuneup, check the fuel pressure.

I don't get why you asked only to ignore the advice we have geven.

alblogg
10-11-2006, 11:00 AM
hi again. once again i searched and didnt find anything related to my problem. this has been happing almost a year now. when we start the truck cold or even ten minutes after it has been driven for awhile, it seeems to take like anywhere from 5 to 12 seconds to start. however every once in a great while when then engine is warm and its hot outside it will start right up. we replaced the fuel filter this summer thinking it was that.. nope. i dont think its the fuel pump because it runs perfect after its started, plus i would think it would have taken a crap on me in the past year. i could be wrong about the pump, but hopefully not. someone said maybe a fuel pressure regulator?
i have no clue what that is, or where its at. if anyone knows from experience about this or knows whats wrong, pls let me know.

thanks
phil
My friend it could be the pump. Mine did the same thing for about a year. You would have to crank on it two or three times like you said for it to fire but after it started it would hit as soon as you turned the key. Let it sit about two hours the same thing had to crank it two or more times. I thought it was my kill switch on my Viper system going bad and was about to take it out until that morning my Wife went out to leave and it never did start. It was the pump the whole time. Compared to the old way it seems to start before the key is all the way turned now.

mywintertruck
10-11-2006, 12:35 PM
alright thanks everyone, ill give it a tune up this weekend. if that don't work, ill see if my friend can do a fuel pressure test

1996LTOwner
10-12-2006, 12:13 AM
I had intermittant starting problems with my 96 Blazer. Most of the time it would start fine, others I'd have to hold the start switch for several seconds. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the spider valve assembly under the intake manifold per the advise of my brother who is a twenty+ year mechanic. Actually, his advise was to replace the whole spider assembly since I was going to have it open, but I wasn't willing to spend the $400.00+ at the time. That fixed the start problem. Hope this helps.

mywintertruck
10-12-2006, 12:22 AM
I had intermittant starting problems with my 96 Blazer. Most of the time it would start fine, others I'd have to hold the start switch for several seconds. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the spider valve assembly under the intake manifold per the advise of my brother who is a twenty+ year mechanic. Actually, his advise was to replace the whole spider assembly since I was going to have it open, but I wasn't willing to spend the $400.00+ at the time. That fixed the start problem. Hope this helps.

hey thanks, about what was the price of the regulator?

BlazerLT
10-12-2006, 02:41 AM
hey thanks, about what was the price of the regulator?

Check you local autozone, it shouldn't be much.

Also, don't ignore the fact you still have to do a tuneup. This has to be done as well, it is mandatory.

mywintertruck
10-12-2006, 02:43 AM
oh yeah, im sure it needs it. its been awhile

BlazerLT
10-12-2006, 02:53 AM
oh yeah, im sure it needs it. its been awhile

I would do it first.

Cap & Rotor
AC Delco Platinum Plugs
Plug Wires
PCV valve
Air Filter

You might kill two birds with one stone.

Sorry to harp, but most problems can be fixed by doing a complete tuneup.

You can get by without replacing the wires, but the cap and rotor and plugs for sure.

BTW, make sure you do one plug at a time so you don't mess up the wires.

DelCoch
10-12-2006, 08:39 AM
First, clean your battery cables and test the battery. Low battery voltage to the fuel pump will cause the hard starting problem you've described, and a bad ground could be the cause of your other problem.

mywintertruck
10-13-2006, 02:22 AM
cool, just waiting for the weekend now, and hopefully some nice weather to work in. i'll definetly get the cap and rotor, plugs, wires. hopefully its not too expensive, money is a little tight.

BlazerLT
10-13-2006, 02:29 AM
cool, just waiting for the weekend now, and hopefully some nice weather to work in. i'll definetly get the cap and rotor, plugs, wires. hopefully its not too expensive, money is a little tight.

then don't worry about the wires.

Get a new cap and rotor and plugs.

Make sure you use AC Delco PLATINUM plugs. Gapped at 0.060

AJT1961
10-13-2006, 01:52 PM
I have a 2000 Blazer 4wd W engine 114,000 miles. I was having the same long start problem you are having. I just replaced the plugs, cap and rotor (all AC Delco) which seems to have completely solved that problem. I really can't complain since they were all original parts. I'm still having a few other minor issues with the engine performance, but the long start problem is solved.

1996LTOwner
10-14-2006, 01:31 AM
mywintertruck,
I believe it was about $70.00. It was a few years ago.

Good luck!!

mywintertruck
10-14-2006, 10:14 AM
cool, thanks everyone. ill let you all know what goes on after the tune up.

BlazerLT
10-14-2006, 02:19 PM
cool, thanks everyone. ill let you all know what goes on after the tune up.

Get AC Delco parts only.

mywintertruck
10-15-2006, 11:20 PM
well i did my tune up yesterday, plus wires, cap, rotor. also had to do the back brakes, and drums. there was hardly anything on them. drums were shot. still having the starting problem though. so im going to save up a little more now, and get that fuel pressure regulator. oh well. i do say it runs a little better now, so the tune up was a success. thanks to all who posted

phil

BlazerLT
10-16-2006, 02:22 AM
Did you change the pugs?

mywintertruck
10-16-2006, 02:46 AM
yeah, oops, i just saw, i wrote plus, instead of plugs. my bad. but yeah i changes them.

MT-2500
10-16-2006, 08:40 AM
well i did my tune up yesterday, plus wires, cap, rotor. also had to do the back brakes, and drums. there was hardly anything on them. drums were shot. still having the starting problem though. so im going to save up a little more now, and get that fuel pressure regulator. oh well. i do say it runs a little better now, so the tune up was a success. thanks to all who posted

phil

Before throwing parts at it check that fuel pressure first.

Hard to start cold.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

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