I'm planning on changing the transmission fluid & filter in my 2002 Grand Caravan this weekend. I've read that I should use RTV to form the gasket. One question, what type of RTV should I get? I couldn't beleive there are so many types: Blue, Ultra-Blue, Red, Black and Ultra-Black, etc.

What type of RTV have you all used and what has worked best for you?

Thanks,
Stan

I would get the reusable gasket. You will have to scrape any existing rtv off first. I think NAPA has a filter, gasket, O-ring combo kit that's cheaper than the $tealer.
RTV takes overnight to cure, another reason I use the gasket. If using RTV make sure it is oxygen sensor safe. Other than that, I think it's all about the same.

I would get the reusable gasket. You will have to scrape any existing rtv off first. I think NAPA has a filter, gasket, O-ring combo kit that's cheaper than the $tealer.
RTV takes overnight to cure, another reason I use the gasket. If using RTV make sure it is oxygen sensor safe. Other than that, I think it's all about the same.

Webbee,
Really good idea. Also I was concerned of a piece of RTV breaking loss and floating around the fluid. I'd have no idea what that could cause.

Best Regards,
Stan

I used red RTV by itself with no gasket per the book. I used a 1/8 inch bead and let it dry over night before refilling it with fluid. Held for three years until the shop mechanics dismantled the tranny to fix a forward pump seal. Dealer told me a gasket is optional. Like most I didn't get warm fuzzys over not using a gasket but, can't argue with the results.

Your best bet is to go to the dealer and get a tube of sealant for about 5 bucks its MOPAR ATF-RTV. I wouldn't use anything else it may void your warranty and will cause future problems if you use anything else.

I like Ultra-Blue No Leak gauranteed. Ultra-Black, Blue, or Copper are the newest Perma-Tex RTV to hit the shelf and claim to, and may be improved over earlier formulas. High-temp Red is rated 150 degrees higher than the others at 650 degrees and was first formulated and used during the 70's. The other RTVs will seal an exhaust manifold or headers. Any of the RTV's mentioned will work. The different colors are more of a marketing thing. Each RTV mentioned is sensor safe which would not affect transmission sensors. I would do as RIP writes, per the books instruction, make a 1/8" continuos bead around and connecting each bolt hole without a gasket just like the picture shows on the Perma-Tex package. Refill and drive away. Where does the idea that RTV takes 24hrs or overnite to cure come from? Or the idea that you should wait before assembly? Not from the RTV instructions! Parts are assembled, filled, and driven minutes and in some cases seconds after assembly without any risk of leaking. None of the mentioned RTV's will have any effect on warranty or future problems if used correctly. All of them including Mopar ATF-RTV can cause problems and possible warranty issue if a rediculous amount is used.

"Let it dry overnight" was just the way it happened. I put the pan on close to dark and didn't want to miss a potential leak in the dark so I waited till morning to refill it. Thought it might have had something to do with it not leaking and holding up for 3 years. Maybe, maybe not. Don't recall what the tube said. Cheers.

RIP You used the RTV correctly and it likley would not leak for 100 years. Probably just like silicone gell in implants is suposed to never decompose.

...Where does the idea that RTV takes 24hrs or overnite to cure come from? ...
I am looking at a package of Permatex RTV Sealant and in instruction #5 it reads "Silicone "skins" and becomes tack free in 1 hour. Allow 24 hours for full cure and maximum strength under normal conditions. Allow more time in cold or very dry conditions." Emphisis added.

1/8 inch is too much.
Mating services have to be clean, smear RTV on cover very, very thin with finger, cover all surfaces.
Assemble immediately, tighten bolts, let set for 30 minutes before pouring fluid in.
I used GE brand.

An 1/8" bead is probably less than smearing. The reason smearing is not as effective as a continuos bead is that air bubbles are trapped through out the smear and may possibly be to thin at some point of contact. A bead flows out consistantly without allowing air bubbles to form. That is why there is no instruction suggesting a smear. Moisture in air is what causes RTV to cure. I understand why so many people may read those facts and conclude additional meaning. GE or Dow Corning probably make a greater veriety of silicone products than others. Some are designed for automotive use and some are not.

Everyone,
Really good comments. I don't think there's anything about the topic of RTV use on the transmission pan that could be added.

I've learned a lot by reading all the posting in this forum. Thanks for your help.

Best Regards,
Stan

I own a Caravan, however just changed filter and gasket on Hyundai Elantra. Purchased the gasket and filter at NAPA. Used yellow "hi-tack" Permatex to hold gasket in place. Reassembled, added fluid and the thing leaked like hell! I had to redrain pan, disassemble and remove new gasket. Upon inspection noticed that new rubber gasket had split along pan ridge and some of the bolt holes. (I don't believe I over tightened bolts).
Just reassembled with Blue RTV. I'm definitely letting it cure overnight before adding fluid. Let you know tomorrow AM if I have any leaks.

TheGrump

General rule with RTV when used on an automatic transmission is to use it sparingly.Do not ever use it to hold the pan gasket on,you will get a leak and install the pan gasket dry.Make sure you use the ATF+4 fluid only in the transmission and most parts stores now sell it,Carquest sells it.I have seen one transmission with RTV silicone used way too much RTV and it was done by someone else.It was a Chrysler 3 speed automatic,the valve body had to be torn apart and cleaned out.