my car is making sound when turning its not the axles im thinking inner tie rods someone today said I need a sway bar bushing

Have you replaced the axles? Take a look under the car, you should be able to notice immediately if the sway bar bushings are at fault. Describe the noise. If its a rythmic pop-pop-pop when you turn which goes away when you drive straight, its probably your CV joints.

More body roll on turns.
If you were thinking it was tie-rods it makes a similar sound,.....clunking rather than the clickity click of cv joints.
Turn your wheel full lock and you will see the round bushings (there are 3 piled). If the rubber is cracked/dried out,or pieces missing thats the bogey. These are the sway-bar "end link bushings". There are 2 bushings behind the engine also, but they rarley blow.
Replacment means removing top and bottom nuts, and an extra small jack to jiggle the sway bar to get the bolt out.
I don't recommend Ebay $22 kits since after 5 months the rubber is cracked on mine already.There is a synthetic type I've heard of, but not sure of name...Poly something.Either way they are not expensive.
Time of job 1 1/2 hours.
BTW feel free to dl the free manuals in "stickys"
Good luck

today I fixed it it was the sway bar end link kit everything is good now, the lower bushing was missing and the rest were cracked really bad

today I fixed it it was the sway bar end link kit everything is good now, the lower bushing was missing and the rest were cracked really bad
Had the same problem with the stabilizer bar bolt link assembly. It's one big bolt on each side with 4 big rubber washers. All mine were cracked and one side was all gone, thus it make noise when I turned the wheel and hit some potholes. Cost me $109 with labor, it was an easy job but I don't have anything to lift the car up. The kit is 45 each+ 20 labor. I called honda, they wanted 100$ each not including labor...ripp-offs.

More body roll on turns.
If you were thinking it was tie-rods it makes a similar sound,.....clunking rather than the clickity click of cv joints.
Turn your wheel full lock and you will see the round bushings (there are 3 piled). If the rubber is cracked/dried out,or pieces missing thats the bogey. These are the sway-bar "end link bushings". There are 2 bushings behind the engine also, but they rarley blow.
Replacment means removing top and bottom nuts, and an extra small jack to jiggle the sway bar to get the bolt out.
I don't recommend Ebay $22 kits since after 5 months the rubber is cracked on mine already.There is a synthetic type I've heard of, but not sure of name...Poly something.Either way they are not expensive.
Time of job 1 1/2 hours.
BTW feel free to dl the free manuals in "stickys"
Good luck

Polyurethane.

They have universal Polyurethane stablilizer bushings and end link kits on the floor at Autozone...you just match the bolt length and bushing style to your OE parts.

Polys are nice, they deflect less than standard rubber, giving quicker reaction to body roll and slightly tighter handling. Last longer too. they don't use them in production because they cost a bit more, and add a bit of harshness to a vehicle that most owners don't want...most would prefer a softer, more supple ride/response over tight handling and road feel....

dam man i paid 20 dollars for mine and put them on myself in 10 mins