86 2.8 V6 S-10 Choke Questions
plopper73
09-19-2006, 06:44 AM
Good Morning! I know that my choke is not working properly. I have checked the choke it is not closing at all when it is cold. And it is not raising the RPM of the engine. Anyone know how to repair or replace it. Help is greatly appricated. I have checked the Haynes repair manual it did not state how to do it. Tells me how to check it not fix it. ) : Thank you!
Blue Bowtie
09-19-2006, 07:48 AM
If the choke has not been tampered or adjusted (if the choke thermostat coil cover is still held on by rivets) it is likely that all you need to do is thoroughly clean and lightly lubricate the choke and high idle cam linkages. If the choke has been inadvertently adjusted, you will need to clean, lubricate, then properly adjust it. It is rare for the choke thermostat to fail on an open-choke mode. Usually when they fail, the choke tends to stay closed. My guess is that the truck still has the E2SE carburetor, correct?
plopper73
09-19-2006, 04:50 PM
Thank you, I will check these -- this idea as soon as the storm passes through.. Lightning and Cars (trucks) and me don't mix to well I will def. keep you posted.
By the way we have a 220 throttle boby injector Carb. So the book tells me! ( : Thanks!
By the way we have a 220 throttle boby injector Carb. So the book tells me! ( : Thanks!
sector95
10-06-2006, 08:49 AM
Good Morning! I know that my choke is not working properly. I have checked the choke it is not closing at all when it is cold. And it is not raising the RPM of the engine. Anyone know how to repair or replace it. Help is greatly appricated. I have checked the Haynes repair manual it did not state how to do it. Tells me how to check it not fix it. ) : Thank you!
Take off the air cleaner.... look at the carb from the side with all the vacuum breaks and linkages; at the firewall end of the carb will be one lever connected to a shaft that runs across the back of the carb to the choke coil housing. In addition, this lever will have a linkage running up to the choke plate lever. With the engine cold, open the throttle a bit and attempt to move the lever/shaft; if the choke coil is not broken, the lever and linkage/choke plate should snap close or, at the very least, have some spring tension on it pushing it closed. If that's the case, then a good blast of Gumout on the linkages and shaft followed by a squirt of WD40 or PB Blaster on the shaft and link connections should have you back in action. If, on the other hand, there is *no* spring tension felt then your choke coil may have broken in which case you will need to replace the choke coil itself. They are still available and will cost about $30-40. The original is usually pop-riveted in three places so you'll need to deal with them ( usually the instructions accompanying the new coil will tell you what to do). Hope this helps and good luck.....
mike
85S10
Take off the air cleaner.... look at the carb from the side with all the vacuum breaks and linkages; at the firewall end of the carb will be one lever connected to a shaft that runs across the back of the carb to the choke coil housing. In addition, this lever will have a linkage running up to the choke plate lever. With the engine cold, open the throttle a bit and attempt to move the lever/shaft; if the choke coil is not broken, the lever and linkage/choke plate should snap close or, at the very least, have some spring tension on it pushing it closed. If that's the case, then a good blast of Gumout on the linkages and shaft followed by a squirt of WD40 or PB Blaster on the shaft and link connections should have you back in action. If, on the other hand, there is *no* spring tension felt then your choke coil may have broken in which case you will need to replace the choke coil itself. They are still available and will cost about $30-40. The original is usually pop-riveted in three places so you'll need to deal with them ( usually the instructions accompanying the new coil will tell you what to do). Hope this helps and good luck.....
mike
85S10
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