Rear disc brakes frozen?

I think my rear disc brake calipers are aftermarket...the caliper is held in place by two small bolts which screw into another bolt head (what I believe are the caliper pins) but no mater what I tried I couldn't get them out, save the one that fell out when I removed the brake pad bracket. Is there some trick I'm missing? Also, the rear pads were really stuck in the mount--I had to use a hammer to loose one of them--but even after knocking out the gunk and lubing them up they're really tight. Is this normal? I seem to recall the front ones practically falling out as I tried to reinstall them.

Thanks!

98 up thats stock and those never seem to get greased and then freeze up and eat the rotor too. Simply best and cheapest solution is to go down and buy a set of "loaded" calipers that gives you new brackets, slides, and pads all ready to bolt on and only about $60 each side. Been there done that and if the slide is frozen in the hole try putting the caliper in a vise but those pins are like $20 so get the loaded ones. New rear rotors about $35 each so get them too - by the time you get them turned and they may be too eaten already and your time...those rear discs work great when done right and the slide pins kept greased. Calipers are single piston with a plastic alloy piston and I always replace each brake job or they often jam in the bore - another lesson learned. Fronts are cast and dual and reuse for many brake jobs. Also flush the whole system out with new fluid (fronts too) and it will response better and last longer.

98 up thats stock and those never seem to get greased and then freeze up and eat the rotor too. Simply best and cheapest solution is to go down and buy a set of "loaded" calipers that gives you new brackets, slides, and pads all ready to bolt on and only about $60 each side. Been there done that and if the slide is frozen in the hole try putting the caliper in a vise but those pins are like $20 so get the loaded ones. New rear rotors about $35 each so get them too - by the time you get them turned and they may be too eaten already and your time...those rear discs work great when done right and the slide pins kept greased. Calipers are single piston with a plastic alloy piston and I always replace each brake job or they often jam in the bore - another lesson learned. Fronts are cast and dual and reuse for many brake jobs. Also flush the whole system out with new fluid (fronts too) and it will response better and last longer.
:iagree:

On my 02 Blazer one of the rear caliper pins was stuck. I seperated the caliper from the bracket, then pulled the rubber boot over the bolt head to remove it so I wouldn't melt it, put the bracket in a vise and used a propane torch to heat the bracket and using a wrench with a back and forth motion I was able to twist the pin out. I used some scotch brite to clean the pin greased it and it work's fine now.

I had to replace both rear calipers and discs do to them locking up. Happened twice and both times I rebuilt and freed them up and this time I bought new and what a difference.

On my 02 Blazer one of the rear caliper pins was stuck. I seperated the caliper from the bracket, then pulled the rubber boot over the bolt head to remove it so I wouldn't melt it, put the bracket in a vise and used a propane torch to heat the bracket and using a wrench with a back and forth motion I was able to twist the pin out. I used some scotch brite to clean the pin greased it and it work's fine now.

Yeah that works but like muddog was talking about in his reply and I agree with I also consider the miles on the caliper and the conditions it runs in. By the time I buy pads, new pins, I have a ready to go caliper with all new hardware that will last me a few more miles of worry free brake jobs before they go to sticking again for not that much more.

I was eventually able to free the pins up, regreased them and reassembled, but like you guys said I just checked them and they're seized again. I've never removed a caliper so is there anything i should know about this 'banjo bolt' before i get in there?

Nope, just unbolt and watch the direction the hose was in and each side of the lone gets a new washer to seal it. After remounting the caliper check that line bolt again - then bleed the lines. I always let the lines and master cyl drain and then put new fluid in so as not to get the old crap in the new calipers. Good time to open the front bleed screws and do them too or at least suck that section in the master out and add new.

Another problem with the rears is the pads often do not slide easily in the bracket and while they should not be rattling loose they do need to move freely also.

On my 02 Blazer one of the rear caliper pins was stuck. I seperated the caliper from the bracket, then pulled the rubber boot over the bolt head to remove it so I wouldn't melt it, put the bracket in a vise and used a propane torch to heat the bracket and using a wrench with a back and forth motion I was able to twist the pin out. I used some scotch brite to clean the pin greased it and it work's fine now.


That's what I did and no problems.

I was eventually able to free the pins up, regreased them and reassembled, but like you guys said I just checked them and they're seized again. I've never removed a caliper so is there anything i should know about this 'banjo bolt' before i get in there?


Did you clean out the holes and the pins before reinstalling?

If you didn't clean out the hole, they will seize again.

All done, and it was pretty simple. Almost forgot to put one washer on either side, but caught myself in time. Only thing I would do different in the future is check for a torque spec before I get covered in grease. The last thing (hopefully) is I bled the lines 'till I didn't get any more bubbles, and then some more for good measure, but the pedal seems a little squishy now...I'm hoping it's just me...