No Heat! Fan works fine... AC works fine. OK...when you advance the heat lever you start to hear a "clicking" sound. It sounds like something is trying to engage and it is just not doing it. I took the bottom panel off the dash (under the stereo and heater panels) and could get a faint glimpse of what looks like a rod coming from the control panel area going into what looks like the heater plenum.

ok....after some research on the net it looks like i am into a blend door actuator/motor problem. i am asking if that sounds like a fair guess of the problem and how the heck you get at the parts/motor/actuator etc. i've seen articles where they tell you to cut a hole in the plenum....nah! then i've seen articles that make it sound like this is a chip shot to fix.

i'm pretty handy with cars and the like so repairs do not scare me but if the dash has to be removed that would be a first for me and kinda intimidating.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Get a repair manual and read over the procedure. Removing or loosening the dash can be tedious. If you don't wish to purchase a repair manual, try your local library or go to the dealer parts counter when they are not too busy and buy an oil filter or something and ask the parts person if they will copy the appropriate pages from the factory service manual. You will need to find out why the actuator is not working, bad vacuum connection, or is it just sticking. Set the heater to hot and try working the door by hand if you can reach it to see if you can unstick the actuator.

Yep, it definately sounds like the electric actuator that works the hot/cold blend door could be the issue. The actuators are maybe the size of a deck of cards and will be plugged in with an electrical connector. I'd get under the dash & work the heater control so you can locate it by the sound. The actuators themselves are usually easy to r/r.

Joel

Hopefully, it’s just broken gears in the blend door actuator, which is fairly easy to replace. Worst-case scenario would be a broken blend door. If that’s the case, you’re going to have a nightmare getting it replaced. The blend door is in the plenum and is not sold separately. The dash will have to be completely removed to get the plenum out (that doesn’t look fun). Instead of replacing them, some people have repaired their broken doors by drilling holes in the plenum and screwing it back together (this is the repair you found during your research). You will probably be able to tell if your door is broke by removing the actuator motor and looking at the “D” shaped key-way the motor shaft engages into. Hopefully it’s just the actuator gears. I tool mine apart and half the teeth were broken off.
The reason they break is because the motor travels too far and applies way too much pressure on the door when it is fully closed. I noticed this when I was replacing mine. I had to forcibly twist the actuator (applying closing pressure on the “already closed” door) to get the new actuator mount holes to line up.
To prevent any future breakage (after you get it fixed), never slide the temperature control (on the dash) to its maximum stops. Leave it about ¼ inch from the end. Trust me, you wont feel any difference in the temp– and the motor wont be pressing down on the door.

I cant remember how much the actuator is, but its around $40-$60 at the dealer.
Here’s a pic of my broken one
TOM
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i230/tomb_stone/158_5895.jpg

hi im newto this forum and i just purchased a 2003 windstar with the exact problem have you fixed yours yet and what was the cure and price

Same Thing happened to me. This is a five minute repair (if it is the actautor). Remove the radio (using removal tool), disconnect antenna lead and power lattice. Remove the lower shroud below the ash tray. You do not need to remove it as in disconnecting the extra power supply plug, but rather remove the for plastic screws and friction holders. Pull the shroud forward and to the left. Using an 8MM 1/4 drive socket, remove the top left screw and right side screw from the radio access hole. Pull out the ash tray and you can easily remove the bottom screw. Once the three screws are out, pull the actuator forward, but keep it plugged in and set to the side. Start the vehicle and set the climate control to Vent. Attach a 1/4 2" extension to the 1/4 drive and place into the D shaped opening of the Blend Door. Roll the
D-Shaped slot to the left for heat. If you are now blasted with heat, you have a faulty actuator. Once the climate control is set to "Off" the blend door will return to the cool position without the actuator. Now if you ar waiting for Pay Day (like Me), you can choose the position of the blend door while it is still plugged into its power source. If you want heat, roll over the the actuator arm to heat and then disconnect the power supply. The motor will stay locked in that position. Re-install (without power to the actuator), because you will need the actuator to hold the blend door open for heat. Replace the actuator on Pay Day. Very easy project! :grinyes:

Thanks FordBoss88, your post was a big help when I was troublshooting and then replacing the blend door actuator. The problem was exactly what others described, a clicking noise when you turned the temperature control to heat and it would only blow cold air.

You were a big help today, thanks!

actuator was my problem to, i just changed it,few teeth were broken off of the small plastic wheel inside unit, i was hearing a clicking noise,new unit cost full price tax included at dealership $98 dollars ,if this part was steel it still be working.

PLEASE IF ANYONE KNOWS I NOW HAVE A PROBLEM I CHANGED THIS UNIT ACTUATOR AND NOW MY HAND HELP TRANSMITTER DONT WORK AT ALL ,ALSO RADIO DONT WORK AT ALL, ANY IDEAS WHAT I NEED TO DO THANKYOU !

Hi My Van Is A 2003 Windstar Sport, And Since I Changed The Actuator ,i Now Have A New Problem ,it Is My Hand Held Transmitter Dont Work At All,also My Radio Dont Work At All !
Please Any Ideas I Sure Can Use Now Thankyou !

please help now!
what is radio code for 2003 windstar sport thankyou !

this string of chats was very helpful. I just changed mine and it fixed the problem. Only thing I did different was I DID NOT PULL THE RADIO. I see this has been causing radio problems. Just take the bottom skirt off like stated above, PULL out the ash tray, not remove, and you should be able to reach all screws. it is a little tight but worth not having to remove anything.

have same problem but found a vaccuum line loose cant find where it goes its in the engine compartment any one knows any diagrams for my 2000 winstar

have same problem but found a vaccuum line loose cant find where it goes its in the engine compartment any one knows any diagrams for my 2000 winstar
There are 2 small hoses that run into the back passenger of the upper intake. Very hard to see unless you have a flash light and look under the back passenger side corner of the intake plenum. It tucked right under the lower part 2 small lines.. I guess thats what you mean. For unhooked vac line..

The HEAT, as in HOT or Cold air is driven by a electrical motor....driving a "blend" door.
The part in the picture is for this.

Where the air GOES is driven by vaccum from the motor.
With no vaccum, all the air will go to the defrost.....to the windshield.
But, the air will still get HOT when you set the temperature control to HOT.
Most common problem here is a vaccum leak....disconnected line or broken/pinched line.

i see the hose from the intake it goes from there 2 a tee & from the firewall 2 a fitting

If you can disconnect it at the junction, easily and without breaking it (they can get stuck and brittle over time), I would disconnect it there and see if you get vaccum from the line that goes to the motor.
If so, then work outward from there.

I had a similar problem. Whenver van was running, there was a constant faint clicking sound coming from behind the radio. Based on researching this forum and other sites, determined it was the accutuator. I went to my local pick and pull, selection was quite limited...but they did have a 95 windstar on the lot (I'm in a 99). Cost me $2 to get in $8 and change for the used acctuator. Came back to the house and installed the used acctuator...Problem solved.

Was a little worried about the older part giving me the same problem...we'll see how long this fix lasts.

Goodluck

Tony, you can get more life out of your actuator if you never put the temp controller in the full "hot" or full "cold" positions. (The root problem is a warped blend door ... and the actuator is really stessed internally when the controller is in either position.)

A daub of black RTV at each end of the controller slide-way will help you remember by restricting controller lever travel.

The main culprit, at least in my situation, is the actuator moving the blend door when the vehicle has no vacuum. In my case, the hose was not reinstalled after a coolant transfer pipe was replaced underneath the intake manifold. the Blend door is powered by the actuator with a vacuum assist, Without vacuum, the actuator motor does all the work and the plastic gear strips out. My poor actuator lasted about a week before she gave out. Also, if you move the heater controls when the vehicle is not running, the same problem occurs.
As far as I know, the actuator cuts out after a short period of no movement, preventing damage to the actuator after the blend door reaches full extent.
D-

First, I would like to thank everyone posted very useful information.
Second, Same Thing happened to me. I switched to Hot heard several "clicking" sounds then continued "cool" air no heater. Based on this discussion trend, I assume the proble was actuator.
Third, summary the Steps to fix the problem :
a. Buy a new actuator - Instead of go to dealer which cost $79 plus tax, I purchased a brand actuator through ebay which cost me $40 ($32 + $8 S&H). Search key word - 2002 2003 Ford Windstar Air Door Actuator. It should be several sellers. The seller I chose - fortworthautoaccessaries
b. Buy a radio removal toll from Auto Parts store ($6-$8). Insert the tool into 4 holes in radio panel. Tips - almost all the way in until you remove the radio.
c. Disconnect antenna lead and power lattice. Remove the lower shroud below the ash tray. You do not need to remove it as in disconnecting the extra power supply plug, but rather remove the for plastic screws and friction holders. Pull the shroud forward and to the left. Using an 8MM 1/4 drive socket, remove the top left screw and right side screw from the radio access hole. Pull out the ash tray and you can easily remove the bottom screw. Once the three screws are out, pull the actuator forward but keep it plugged in and set to the side.
Start the vehicle and set the climate control to Vent. Attach a 1/4 2" extension to the 1/4 drive and place into the D shaped opening of the Blend Door. Roll the
D-Shaped slot to the left for heat. If you are now blasted with heat, you have a faulty actuator. Once the climate control is set to "Off" the blend door will return to the cool position without the actuator.
d. You can choose the position of the blend door while it is still plugged into its power source. If you want heat, roll over the actuator arm to heat and then disconnect the power supply. The motor will stay locked in that position. Re-install (without power to the actuator), because you will need the actuator to hold the blend door open for heat.

Overall, to replace actuator is not a difficult job. It took my wife and I around 2-hour to replace. I mistake burned the radio fuse which is not too difficult to replace. Total, we spent less $50.

Once again, thank you all provide the useful instructions.

David