how to replace rear shocks
Phil's C5 Vette
09-03-2006, 11:33 AM
Is there a how to on replacing rear shocks on a 2000 montana
mhall02
09-06-2006, 05:03 PM
Phil's C5 Vette
09-06-2006, 06:49 PM
Im looking for a step by step how to replace the shocks. That tools I need.
Not which shocks to get.
Thanks for that info anyway
Not which shocks to get.
Thanks for that info anyway
1999montana
09-07-2006, 04:24 PM
Im looking for a step by step how to replace the shocks. That tools I need.
Not which shocks to get.
Thanks for that info anyway
The rear shocks are a bit of a pain, but if you decide to buy the Monroe 824's, you will have a direct replacement for the originals, although the size of the piston is a bit smaller I think. They work fine none-the-less. The hoses are attached to each shock with small hair-pin style C-clips that slide out using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
You don't need a lot of tools to do this, but it does help to get the rear up high enough that you can safely get under the van to remove the lower bolts. The lowers are the big problem. They have a tendancy to bind to the inner bushing on the shock and consequently you can't slide the bolt out even with the nut off.
I used two axle stands rated at 4 tons each to hold the back end about 20" in the air. I placed them at the end of the frame rail on each corner of the van near the rear bumper. (be careful not to pinch the air hoses that run in this area) A floor jack - 2-1/2 to 3 ton model (close to a shop floor jack) comes in handy.
Before doing the next step, remove the nut from the end of the bolt first.
My solution involved spreading the lower bracket wide enough to get a grinder wheel (4") on the inside of the bracket between the shock bushing and the bracket side that has the head of the bolt. I cut the bolt off with the grinder wheel. Be careful not to grind the bracket and you don't care if you grind some of the lower bushing off 'cause it gets replaced with the new shock anyway.
Then with the bracket still spread open (only requires a spread of about 3/4"), you can slide the shock by twisting it slightly to clear the bracket, bolt and all, out through the lower bracket. Done!
The upper bolts are much easier to remove and should lterally fall out.
Once you have both shocks off, your in good shape to replace them with the new ones. You might have to raise the rear axle slightly to get the shocks to line up with the holes top and bottom though. Then restore the bracket to its original orientation. I used a large crescent wrench (with the bracket sandwiched in between nice and snug) to bend the bracket out and then back.
Summary: It took me about two hours to do the work, but I'm slow; - always inspecting things as I go. Some might consider that looking for trouble, but I figure I'm under there, - I might as well find anything else that needs fixing and get it done.
You'll need to buy two new bolts and possibly nuts and appropriate sized washers if the old bolts are cut off using the method I describe. You can use Metric or SAE, but make sure you go for at least a grade 8 hardness or higher. I used SAE with a medium thread and a 3/8" shank. (You might want to compare the old and new for size before selecting and installing a replacement bolt).
The largest diameter bolt of the correct hardness that will fit through the bushing is probably the safest; - DON'T GO SMALLER ie: 5/16" afterall, you are carrying the weight of the rear of the van plus cargo and you wouldn't want it to snap. I think the metric bolts have a grade 8 hardness marked on them, not sure, - check. I think 2-1/2" botls will reach, but it might take 3", been a while since I did ours.
One thing I should have done but didn't is check for leaks in the hoses and connectors. Mine haven't leaked signicantly, but they do bleed down in winter which leads me to believe I have a small leak somewhere.
.
Not which shocks to get.
Thanks for that info anyway
The rear shocks are a bit of a pain, but if you decide to buy the Monroe 824's, you will have a direct replacement for the originals, although the size of the piston is a bit smaller I think. They work fine none-the-less. The hoses are attached to each shock with small hair-pin style C-clips that slide out using a pair of needle-nose pliers.
You don't need a lot of tools to do this, but it does help to get the rear up high enough that you can safely get under the van to remove the lower bolts. The lowers are the big problem. They have a tendancy to bind to the inner bushing on the shock and consequently you can't slide the bolt out even with the nut off.
I used two axle stands rated at 4 tons each to hold the back end about 20" in the air. I placed them at the end of the frame rail on each corner of the van near the rear bumper. (be careful not to pinch the air hoses that run in this area) A floor jack - 2-1/2 to 3 ton model (close to a shop floor jack) comes in handy.
Before doing the next step, remove the nut from the end of the bolt first.
My solution involved spreading the lower bracket wide enough to get a grinder wheel (4") on the inside of the bracket between the shock bushing and the bracket side that has the head of the bolt. I cut the bolt off with the grinder wheel. Be careful not to grind the bracket and you don't care if you grind some of the lower bushing off 'cause it gets replaced with the new shock anyway.
Then with the bracket still spread open (only requires a spread of about 3/4"), you can slide the shock by twisting it slightly to clear the bracket, bolt and all, out through the lower bracket. Done!
The upper bolts are much easier to remove and should lterally fall out.
Once you have both shocks off, your in good shape to replace them with the new ones. You might have to raise the rear axle slightly to get the shocks to line up with the holes top and bottom though. Then restore the bracket to its original orientation. I used a large crescent wrench (with the bracket sandwiched in between nice and snug) to bend the bracket out and then back.
Summary: It took me about two hours to do the work, but I'm slow; - always inspecting things as I go. Some might consider that looking for trouble, but I figure I'm under there, - I might as well find anything else that needs fixing and get it done.
You'll need to buy two new bolts and possibly nuts and appropriate sized washers if the old bolts are cut off using the method I describe. You can use Metric or SAE, but make sure you go for at least a grade 8 hardness or higher. I used SAE with a medium thread and a 3/8" shank. (You might want to compare the old and new for size before selecting and installing a replacement bolt).
The largest diameter bolt of the correct hardness that will fit through the bushing is probably the safest; - DON'T GO SMALLER ie: 5/16" afterall, you are carrying the weight of the rear of the van plus cargo and you wouldn't want it to snap. I think the metric bolts have a grade 8 hardness marked on them, not sure, - check. I think 2-1/2" botls will reach, but it might take 3", been a while since I did ours.
One thing I should have done but didn't is check for leaks in the hoses and connectors. Mine haven't leaked signicantly, but they do bleed down in winter which leads me to believe I have a small leak somewhere.
.
Phil's C5 Vette
09-15-2006, 07:26 PM
perfect thanks
alex montana
09-24-2006, 12:44 AM
On my 1999 Montana, using the Monroe load levelling shocks, I was able to change them without jacking the van. I used 1/2 inch ratchet, sockets and some long extensions. I did have someone help me insert the bolts while I moved the shock to lined them up. There is access to the upper bolt through the rear wheel well and the lower bolts came off with the rachet and wrench.
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