Where are the spark plugs?.....lol

My daughter drove my 2001 Prism to college & somebody stole the spark plugs..lol..

Just kidding, I've changed plugs numerous times in my cars before but I can't even find these suckers. I know they're there somewhere...

Can somebody give me hint?

Follow the wires. :thubsup: They have to be in the cylinder head, more often the manufacturers put a cover ovoer them to 'clean things up'

Yes I recently changed the plugs and wires, they are in top of the engine. The plug wires have "boots" which cover the holes.

How to change spark plugs on a 2001-2002 Prizm
The manufacturer recommended iridium plugs cost about $10.00 apiece and last about 150,000 miles. The platinum plugs cost about $2.00 apiece and last about 50,000 miles. For the hassle involved in repacing the plugs, Iridium plugs are better

Tools you will need before you start

1. 1/4" ratchet
2. 1/4" extention
3. 10 mm socket, 1/4" drive
4. small flat bladed screwdriver
5. 3/8" ratchet
6. 3/8" long extention
7. 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8 " drive
8. air compressor with blow gun or can of compressed air
9. long needle nose pliers
10. 1/4" internal diameter rubber hose 8 inches long
11. wire coat hanger
12. neverseez lubricant

Procedure

1. Remove the two 10 mm cap nuts on the top plastic housing over the engine
2. Remove the two fasteners on the back of the housing and remove the plastic cover
3. You will see four plastic blocks with four wire clips on each block.
4. Use compressed air to blow out debris around the blocks
5. Use the small flat bladed screwdriver to carefully lift up on the tab that holds the electrical connector onto the block and slide the wire clip off the block.
6. Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the plastic block onto the engine.
7. Loosen the 10 mm nut on end of the plastic rail that holds the wiring harness for the blocks so that the round plastic washer on the bottom of the block will not break when you pull off the block
8. Carefully pull the plastic block out of the engine. There is a 4 inch tube attached to the block that extends into the engine to the spark plug. It will take some twisting and pulling but you must be careful not to catch the back part of the round plastic washer that you cannot see, on the bottom of the plastic wiring harness.
9. The spark plug is at the bottom of the 4 inch hole.
10. Blow compressed air down the hole to remove debris
11. Use a 5/8 sparkplug socket with a rubber collar on the 3/8" extention to remove the spark plug. The rubber collar will hold onto the spark plug as it is removed.
12. The NGK website recommends making sure the spark plugs have the correct gap .044 but the spark plug box says not to adust the gap because you might damage the needle point iridium tip. The new spark plug has a protective cardboard tube that is removed.
13. Spark plugs can stick inside aluminum heads and break off when you try remove them, leaving only the threads of the plug inside the engine which will necessitate removing the head to remove broken spark plug. Putting neverseez on the threads of the new spark plug will prevent that in future spark plug changes
14. Now comes an interesting choice. You can use the rubber tube over the neck of the spark plug to slowly drop it down the hole and hand tighten it or you can use the spark plug socket with the rubber collar. If you use the spark plug socket, the rubber collar will stick to the plug and you will pull off the extention, leaving the socket in the hole. A pair of long needlenose pliers will reach into the hole and remove the socket, but the rubber collar may remain on the plug and you will have to bend a piece of coathanger with a short 90 degree tip to reach into the hole and pull out the rubber collar. The rubber collar is there to prevent you from cocking a regular 5/8" deep socket at an angle which will break off the neck of the sparkplug, necessitating another 10 dollars and another trip to the auto parts store.
15. After the spark plug is hand tight, give it 1/2 turn more.
16. Replace the square block, being sure that the black silicone gasket on the bottom of the round plastic washer does not get bound up on the engine post where the 10 mm bolt goes. Tighten the bolt
17. replace the electrical clip.
18. Go to the next spark plug and repeat the procedure.
19. After the last spark plug is done, be sure to retighten the 10 mm nut on the wiring harness rail
20. Replace the plastic cover over the engine and you are done

Thank you Prizmowner2001
Very nice instructions! When I posted this Q I didn't know that the iridiums plugs interval was so long. I saved your instructions & they helped me tons tonite when I finally did the change (80K). I was afraid of the OE plugs getting hard to get out but they came out with reasonable pressure. The only things that I could add to your helpful instructions would be that there are 2 nuts that hold the rail, the one on the end & then one towards the middle that holds the wire rail that needs to be loosened (in my case, removed) to prevent breaking the ring on the coil. I also think that it is helpful if you work from the passenger side toward the driver side when removing & reinstalling the coils in my case with my 2001 Prizm. That way the wires release as you go & enables the rail to pop up out of the way a bit.

You helped me a lot Prizmowner2001 & I appreciate it. This seems like a stupid easy project but if you aren't familiar with it, it's kind of a head scratcher.