Left rear power window not going up.
ncbeast
07-20-2006, 11:04 PM
I have a 2003 Buick Century. I just replaced the master switch for my power windows to fix a problem where the driver and left side passenger windows didn's work. The drivers seat window and all the windows on the right hand side window work fine.
The rear passenger window on the passenger side only goes down partway, and it will not got up. You can hear the moter working, and it made kind of a grinding noise but it did not pick up. I worked fine about 3 weeks ago before the master switch went south.
Any suggestions? I could also use some pointers on how to gett the panel off (without breaking it) to check on the moter and to make sure the window is aligned properly in the rollers. Getting the panel off is a real pain. Diagrams would be extremely helpful.
The rear passenger window on the passenger side only goes down partway, and it will not got up. You can hear the moter working, and it made kind of a grinding noise but it did not pick up. I worked fine about 3 weeks ago before the master switch went south.
Any suggestions? I could also use some pointers on how to gett the panel off (without breaking it) to check on the moter and to make sure the window is aligned properly in the rollers. Getting the panel off is a real pain. Diagrams would be extremely helpful.
BNaylor
07-20-2006, 11:47 PM
Welcome to AF.
The door panel is easy to get off. There should be one screw at the door handle holding the trim panel and at the pull grip there is a plastic panel/insert that needs to be removed. Underneath it are two bolts. Remove them. Then carefully get a grip on the bottom of the door panel and pull out. There are several push/pin clips at various locations holding the panel on. Once you are sure all are loose then grab a hold of door panel and lift straight up and then off. Also, they make a door panel remover tool that may help.
The motor sounds OK but you will need to inspect the cables and the regulator. Sometimes lubing the tracks helps.
The door panel is easy to get off. There should be one screw at the door handle holding the trim panel and at the pull grip there is a plastic panel/insert that needs to be removed. Underneath it are two bolts. Remove them. Then carefully get a grip on the bottom of the door panel and pull out. There are several push/pin clips at various locations holding the panel on. Once you are sure all are loose then grab a hold of door panel and lift straight up and then off. Also, they make a door panel remover tool that may help.
The motor sounds OK but you will need to inspect the cables and the regulator. Sometimes lubing the tracks helps.
ncbeast
07-21-2006, 12:02 AM
Welcome to AF.
The door panel is easy to get off. There should be one screw at the door handle holding the trim panel and at the pull grip there is a plastic panel/insert that needs to be removed. Underneath it are two bolts. Remove them. Then carefully get a grip on the bottom of the door panel and pull out. There are several push/pin clips at various locations holding the panel on. Once you are sure all are loose then grab a hold of door panel and lift straight up and then off. Also, they make a door panel remover tool that may help.
The motor sounds OK but you will need to inspect the cables and the regulator. Sometimes lubing the tracks helps.
When inspecting the cables and the regulator, is there anything specific that I am looking for other than loose cables?
One thing I should clarify is that it does the same thing from the master switch and the left rear window switch itself.
The door panel is easy to get off. There should be one screw at the door handle holding the trim panel and at the pull grip there is a plastic panel/insert that needs to be removed. Underneath it are two bolts. Remove them. Then carefully get a grip on the bottom of the door panel and pull out. There are several push/pin clips at various locations holding the panel on. Once you are sure all are loose then grab a hold of door panel and lift straight up and then off. Also, they make a door panel remover tool that may help.
The motor sounds OK but you will need to inspect the cables and the regulator. Sometimes lubing the tracks helps.
When inspecting the cables and the regulator, is there anything specific that I am looking for other than loose cables?
One thing I should clarify is that it does the same thing from the master switch and the left rear window switch itself.
BNaylor
07-21-2006, 08:27 AM
With the panel off you will be able to see how it works and the cables. The driver's side switch feeds all passenger door switches. To check switch operation, activate the switch once panel is removed. You will see and hear the motor working if the switch(s) are good.
Leave the wiring to the passenger door switches connected after removing the panel for testing.
Leave the wiring to the passenger door switches connected after removing the panel for testing.
ncbeast
07-21-2006, 09:02 AM
Appears to be a wiring issue on the motor itself. Is it worth going to a junk dealer to get a replacement motor for $100 or spending the $140 to get it new from the dealer?
BNaylor
07-21-2006, 09:19 AM
Appears to be a wiring issue on the motor itself. Is it worth going to a junk dealer to get a replacement motor for $100 or spending the $140 to get it new from the dealer?
$100 is too much for a boneyard pull part, as is the $140 at the GM dealer. The last motor/regulator I got from a boneyard ran around $40.
Checkout Ebay. There are plenty of window/motor/regulator assemblies (aftermarket) for your Century for around $50 plus shipping.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
$100 is too much for a boneyard pull part, as is the $140 at the GM dealer. The last motor/regulator I got from a boneyard ran around $40.
Checkout Ebay. There are plenty of window/motor/regulator assemblies (aftermarket) for your Century for around $50 plus shipping.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
ncbeast
08-01-2006, 11:12 PM
$100 is too much for a boneyard pull part, as is the $140 at the GM dealer. The last motor/regulator I got from a boneyard ran around $40.
Checkout Ebay. There are plenty of window/motor/regulator assemblies (aftermarket) for your Century for around $50 plus shipping.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I wrote an email to the service department manager at the dealership describing my situation.
I was steaming mad. I'd been having problems with them locking up on me since I bought it new, but it would start working when I would bring it to the dealership. The warrenty expired at 35K of mileage, and it has about 46K of mileage.
I was surprised. He stated this was a "known issue" with my car, and that I need to open and close the windows (even if you don't need them down) periodically to keep them from locking up. Anyway, he was good enough to treat the repair as a warrenty repair. I didn't have to pay a dime. :)
It seems its at least worth it to write the service department manager, even if its sleightly out of warrenty. You haven't got anything to lose by at least inquiring to see if they can work with you?
Checkout Ebay. There are plenty of window/motor/regulator assemblies (aftermarket) for your Century for around $50 plus shipping.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
I wrote an email to the service department manager at the dealership describing my situation.
I was steaming mad. I'd been having problems with them locking up on me since I bought it new, but it would start working when I would bring it to the dealership. The warrenty expired at 35K of mileage, and it has about 46K of mileage.
I was surprised. He stated this was a "known issue" with my car, and that I need to open and close the windows (even if you don't need them down) periodically to keep them from locking up. Anyway, he was good enough to treat the repair as a warrenty repair. I didn't have to pay a dime. :)
It seems its at least worth it to write the service department manager, even if its sleightly out of warrenty. You haven't got anything to lose by at least inquiring to see if they can work with you?
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