Check Engine light help.

I have read in a few places that the o2 sensor can cause the engine light to come on. BTW I have a 2001 Dodge Neon, it has about 102,000 miles on it. Just the other day it overheated, we put water in it and today I was supposed to buy a flush kit for the radiator and put more anti-freeze in. (My neighbor is doing it for me so I think that is what he said) We are also n eeding an oil change and I am sure new spark plugs too. It isn't running terribly but it does act like it doesn't want to go when I am at a stop light and it turns green. A few months ago it cut out, just turned off and when I restarted it, it hasn't done it again since. Today the check engine light came on, we check all fluids and they are all fine. Could it be the spark plugs? Head gasket? Any ideas, I could take it in and have it looked at but I really don't have that sort of money right now. I want to keep it running at least until August when I am able to get better maintenance on it at a shop. :banghead:

Thanks for any help and advice you may have in advance.

I have read in a few places that the o2 sensor can cause the engine light to come on. BTW I have a 2001 Dodge Neon, it has about 102,000 miles on it. Just the other day it overheated, we put water in it and today I was supposed to buy a flush kit for the radiator and put more anti-freeze in. (My neighbor is doing it for me so I think that is what he said) We are also n eeding an oil change and I am sure new spark plugs too. It isn't running terribly but it does act like it doesn't want to go when I am at a stop light and it turns green. A few months ago it cut out, just turned off and when I restarted it, it hasn't done it again since. Today the check engine light came on, we check all fluids and they are all fine. Could it be the spark plugs? Head gasket? Any ideas, I could take it in and have it looked at but I really don't have that sort of money right now. I want to keep it running at least until August when I am able to get better maintenance on it at a shop. :banghead:

Thanks for any help and advice you may have in advance.

Welcome to AF on your first post.

First thing to do would be have the codes read and post back code no.
Auto zone and some parts places will do it for free. BUT!!!!

Use Caution when getting the free code checks please.
Some parts places do offer free code checks. And also free repair advice. But beware. Just get the code no and post it back here and someone will help you.
They offer the free code checks in the hope of increasing there parts sales.
Almost all of them will also offer mechanical advice and some know what they are doing.
But just remember most of them are parts people pulling codes for free.
Not trained professional tech/mechanics. Even if they pull a 02-sensor code or another sensor related code it does always mean to replace that sensor and your problem will be fixed.
Please just get the code no and post it back here and we will help you.
MT

Pep boys does the diagnostic for 19.88 so we went ahead and did that. They said there is an Evap leak, the code Number was PO455. They said I have to go to the Dealership and have them do a smoke test. (I think they said smoke test, where they fill the tank with gas and find the leak??) They said that 'usually' runs about $149.99 just to test then the additional charge to fix it. Does that sound right? I read online too that the check engine light could be on for the evap leak so I am pretty sure they are right, I am also pretty sure that it is because of the gas tank not being closed correctly since we never run it when getting gas, or even have the AC on. Anyways, Thanks again for your help.

Pep boys does the diagnostic for 19.88 so we went ahead and did that. They said there is an Evap leak, the code Number was PO455. They said I have to go to the Dealership and have them do a smoke test. (I think they said smoke test, where they fill the tank with gas and find the leak??) They said that 'usually' runs about $149.99 just to test then the additional charge to fix it. Does that sound right? I read online too that the check engine light could be on for the evap leak so I am pretty sure they are right, I am also pretty sure that it is because of the gas tank not being closed correctly since we never run it when getting gas, or even have the AC on. Anyways, Thanks again for your help.


OBD11 Code 455 says big leak.
A good repair shop should be able to pinpoint it.
OR A ENGINE SPEFIC SCANNER CODE WOULD PINPOINT IT MORE.
Check hoses to tank and gas cap real close.
A gas cap off/lose orfilling tank with engine running will give you that code to.

I suck at car stuff so, what you are saying is there is a big leak? Or the code with 455 means a big leak? My neighbor is pretty good with cars so when I see him I will ask him if he can check those hoses for me. I can't afford to do anything with it right now so, in your opinion, is it safe and okay for me to be using it with this problem? I drive to and from work, my husband to and from work and to the kids' daycare. I don't want to be putting us at any risks of breaking down in the middle of nowhere since we live in the boonies, I also dont want to be stranded in this heat with an infant. After that is checked, if it stays on or whatever what do you suggest? Going to the dealership and doing the smoke test? Also, do you have any clue how much it costs to get this kind of problem fixed?

I suck at car stuff so, what you are saying is there is a big leak? Or the code with 455 means a big leak? My neighbor is pretty good with cars so when I see him I will ask him if he can check those hoses for me. I can't afford to do anything with it right now so, in your opinion, is it safe and okay for me to be using it with this problem? I drive to and from work, my husband to and from work and to the kids' daycare. I don't want to be putting us at any risks of breaking down in the middle of nowhere since we live in the boonies, I also dont want to be stranded in this heat with an infant. After that is checked, if it stays on or whatever what do you suggest? Going to the dealership and doing the smoke test? Also, do you have any clue how much it costs to get this kind of problem fixed?


Yes 455 is a big vacume leak on the Evaporative emissions System.
They can have from small to large leaks.
The leaks are refering to the vacume that is applied to the fuel tank to remove gas fumes.
The tank and lines and valves are supposed to hold vacume.
They can develope a leak at the evaporative vacume valve ,charcoal filter,
or vacume lines and sensors going to the tank or at the tank or gas filler neck or even gas filler cap.
Gas filler cap is the first thing to check.
It is not good to drive it like that but they usually will not quit running.
A good repair shop may be cheaper than a dealer on repair if they are trained on it and have the equipment to do it.
But first check all hoses and lines and valves and gas cap.
Listen for vacume leaks. Make sure you give the gas cap 3 clicks and the seal on it is good.
All the smoke machine does is fill the tank with smoke and a person has to look for smoke coming out where the leak is.
Big leak is not as hard to find than the real small ones.
Good luck
MT
Good Luck

You wouldn't happen to know the cost of 'fixing' the leak after having it checked would you? It is driving smoothly, it is having some heat issues. Could the heat here, it is 108 today, be causing it to run 'so' hot? I am worried it is overheating but it has all the fluids it needs. My husband thinks the head gasket (sp?) is going bad or bad but would that show on the engine diagnostic test? Thanks so much for all your help, thusfar!





Yes 455 is a big vacume leak on the Evaporative emissions System.
They can have from small to large leaks.
The leaks are refering to the vacume that is applied to the fuel tank to remove gas fumes.
The tank and lines and valves are supposed to hold vacume.
They can develope a leak at the evaporative vacume valve ,charcoal filter,
or vacume lines and sensors going to the tank or at the tank or gas filler neck or even gas filler cap.
Gas filler cap is the first thing to check.
It is not good to drive it like that but they usually will not quit running.
A good repair shop may be cheaper than a dealer on repair if they are trained on it and have the equipment to do it.
But first check all hoses and lines and valves and gas cap.
Listen for vacume leaks. Make sure you give the gas cap 3 clicks and the seal on it is good.
All the smoke machine does is fill the tank with smoke and a person has to look for smoke coming out where the leak is.
Big leak is not as hard to find than the real small ones.
Good luck
MT
Good Luck

You wouldn't happen to know the cost of 'fixing' the leak after having it checked would you? It is driving smoothly, it is having some heat issues. Could the heat here, it is 108 today, be causing it to run 'so' hot? I am worried it is overheating but it has all the fluids it needs. My husband thinks the head gasket (sp?) is going bad or bad but would that show on the engine diagnostic test? Thanks so much for all your help, thusfar!

The problem has to be found first. Then the cost figured out.
Most repair shops will give you a estiamate of the repair cost.
You also may want to have the engine running checked
and the running warm checked.
Watch that tempt gauge and keep coolant in it. But cool it down before checking coolant.
Find a good repair shop to help you with it.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
MT