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Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)


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shorod
11-01-2012, 09:00 PM
Are you quite positive it's a 1275 rather than a 1257? Since you didn't mention a specific year, I looked in the service manual for 2002 and don't find a 1275, but do find a 1257, which is defined as "Ambient air temperature sensor short to ground."

-Rod

joegr
11-05-2012, 08:05 PM
B1275 = Vent Servo Motor Potentiometer Circuit Short To Ground

gg312
11-30-2012, 04:19 PM
Old thread.. so hear goes... '03 LS V8. AC Blower just started running on High contstantly. Will get warm or cold if I change the temp settings. Starts running shortly after I start the car and will stay on 5-10sec after I turn the car off. Some setting changes to AC/Heat will effect it some like changing to internal air (probably just sound changes as the vents open/close and hearing the rerouted) but Fan control button has no effect. Turned if AC/Heat OFF and blower still runs. Have tried the OFF/DEFROST and AUTO diagnostic and all lights up with "8s" so supposed to be no issues there. I saw a post on another forum for almost the same conditions that it may be the "Blower motor relay could be sticking and also the electronic auto temp control module".

If these look like the culprits as this other forum suggested, can anyone advise if this is correct and direct me to how to change these?

Thx in advance!

joegr
12-04-2012, 08:29 AM
Old thread.. so hear goes... '03 LS V8. AC Blower just started running on High contstantly. Will get warm or cold if I change the temp settings. Starts running shortly after I start the car and will stay on 5-10sec after I turn the car off. Some setting changes to AC/Heat will effect it some like changing to internal air (probably just sound changes as the vents open/close and hearing the rerouted) but Fan control button has no effect. Turned if AC/Heat OFF and blower still runs. Have tried the OFF/DEFROST and AUTO diagnostic and all lights up with "8s" so supposed to be no issues there. I saw a post on another forum for almost the same conditions that it may be the "Blower motor relay could be sticking and also the electronic auto temp control module".

If these look like the culprits as this other forum suggested, can anyone advise if this is correct and direct me to how to change these?

Thx in advance!

Your problem is the electronic blower speed controller. It is not too expensive, but the correct procedure to change it involves a lot of labor. The whole dash has to come out, the AC refrigerant discharged and recharged, engine coolant drained and refilled, and so on.

There are some red-neck ways around all that, but I don't know if the results are good.

lonerifleman
03-16-2013, 05:08 PM
Hi Folks, new to the forum, and would like some help with a problem.
I have a 2006 LS with climate controled seats. Suddenly last week the Climate control system started blowing hot air from both sides. I have followed some of the tips on this tread and right now I have normal functionality from the passanger side, but the drivers side is still only putting out very hot air. I have tried to run a self test using the tips given here for 2005-2006 LS with climate controled seats, namely Defrost + off and then Auto. That does not work for me as the system starts when I press Auto. What am I doing wrong? Any ideas as to what the trouble might be? DCCV? Thanks for any postings on this.

John P

shorod
03-16-2013, 11:21 PM
Are you continuing to hold the Off and Defrost buttons when you press Auto, or are you releasing the Off and Defrost buttons, then pressing Auto?

-Rod

lonerifleman
03-17-2013, 08:12 AM
Rod, I have tried both. Is the trick in how long you hold off and defrost before you press auto?

shorod
03-17-2013, 10:54 AM
You need to press the Auto button within 2 seconds of pressing the Off and Defrost buttons.

-Rod

lonerifleman
03-19-2013, 06:15 PM
I received a code 2798 both from self test as well as stored codes. Looks like a Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground ? Any other possibilities? the symtoms are consitant with a wide open DCCV on drivers side? Thanks for your help.

shorod
03-20-2013, 06:36 AM
There's only one DCCV that controls coolant flow for both the driver and passenger heater cores. What steps did you do that got the passenger side working?

According to the factory service manual, the following items are listed in Pinpoint Test H as possible reasons for the 2798 diagnostic code:


Possible Causes
An open in circuit 30-FB3 (RD/OG), 91S-FB3 (BN/BL), 91S-FB3 (BK/OG) or 91S-FB4 (BN/GN)
A short to ground or voltage in circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BL), 91S-FB3 (BK/OG) or 91S-FB4 (BN/GN)
Coolant control valve
DATC module
Evaporator discharge air temperature sensor
Thermostat

The air temperature sensor is likely the same part number as a the ones for the driver and passenger vent temps so you could try swapping with the passenger side to see if that changes the operation. I've experienced a bad temp sensor, but that seems to be a far less common issue than a bad DCCV. The temp sensor is also a far less expensive part requiring much less labor than a DCCV.

If you have a multimeter and understand how to use its basic functions, you can test for voltage to the DCCV, then check for ground signals from the DATC control unit when set to the minimum temperature, either 65 or 60 degrees F. If you have have power and ground, yet the driver's side is still hot, that would indicate that the DATC is doing it's job mostly correct, telling the DCCV to close coolant flow, but the DCCV is not closing. This would indicate a faulty DCCV.

Is your LS the V6 or V8?

-Rod

lonerifleman
03-20-2013, 11:28 AM
There's only one DCCV that controls coolant flow for both the driver and passenger heater cores. What steps did you do that got the passenger side working?

Rod, the valve looks like it has two distinct actuator coils. It is conceivable that one side is bad. It is also possible that the temp sensor is bad as you mention. I will check that as well.

If you have a multimeter and understand how to use its basic functions, you can test for voltage to the DCCV, then check for ground signals from the DATC control unit when set to the minimum temperature, either 65 or 60 degrees F. If you have have power and ground, yet the driver's side is still hot, that would indicate that the DATC is doing it's job mostly correct, telling the DCCV to close coolant flow, but the DCCV is not closing. This would indicate a faulty DCCV.

I have a multimeter and well familiar with its use, so I will follow these checks in the manual.

Mine is a 2006 LS, so a V8.

Thanks for your time and help!

shorod
03-20-2013, 01:28 PM
Mine is a 2006 LS, so a V8.

Was the V6 not available in 2006? I didn't realize that.

-Rod

lonerifleman
03-20-2013, 03:49 PM
Yes 2006, the final year of production only came with the jaguar made V8. It is a great engine, quick and smooth, sounds great as well. Needs 91+ octagon gas.

RJLipscomb
03-20-2013, 09:38 PM
I also have the 2006 V8
The DCCV seems to be the most common cause. Relatively easy repair.
Also note (if haven't already discovered): Coil over plugs (COPs) tend to start going bad near the 100k mark. Again, easy maintenance item.

joegr
03-21-2013, 10:00 AM
Yes 2006, the final year of production only came with the jaguar made V8. It is a great engine, quick and smooth, sounds great as well. Needs 91+ octagon gas.

The V8 in all years of the LS was a Jaguar based design. The top end of the engine (particularly for 2003-2006) is very different on the LS than on Jaguars. The engines for the LS were manufactured by Ford.

The V6 was available from 2000-2005. It is a Ford design, but Jaguar used a modified version of it in some of their cars.

(Note that Ford owned Jaguar for a time. They no longer do.)

lonerifleman
03-30-2013, 09:50 PM
Folks, Thanks for the helpful hints. I replaced my DCCV and that solved the problem. I bought the part on Amazon, and it was a Motorcraft valve. Cost only $88. I saw the same one for 100-156 elsewhere. It took longer than I expected to install because of the hose clamps that gave me some unexpected trouble in those tight quarters. But as soon as I refilled and bled the cooling system, it was back to normal. No codes, and the cooling works just as it should. Thanks again.

Dochterman8
07-22-2013, 05:32 PM
Hello All! First timer here and have been reading the threads.My mechanic has replaced my DCCV on my 2002 LS 3 times and the the a/c works only when it wants to,which is most of the time.At times it gets warmer then cold.I have replaced the dual climate controllers inside the car as well,I now own 3 of them.I have ran the computer check by pressing off and floor then auto and it comes up all 8's.I have also tried off and defrost then auto and it comes up code 1676.Any suggestions?
Dochterman8

lovemyLS
10-27-2013, 01:39 PM
Anyone tell me what following codes are on DCCV test
27 96, 24 26, 12 42
No hot air blowing.
Thx
Jeff

shorod
10-27-2013, 09:05 PM
Code 12 42 = Recirculation door actuator circuit failure
Code 24 26 = Not defined in service manual for 2002 model year. What year is your LS?
Code 27 96 = Not defined in service manual for 2002 model year. What year is your LS?

-Rod

lovemyLS
11-07-2013, 09:43 PM
Mine is a 03' V8

shorod
11-08-2013, 07:03 AM
Those same codes are still not defined in the 2003 service manual. You might need to search the forum for details on those or wait for JOEGR to respond. He's more familiar with the intricacies of this system.

The code numbers fall within the "family" of codes for the DCCV but I know JOEGR has pointed out in the past at least one code that should be ignored.

-Rod

joegr
11-08-2013, 09:26 AM
2426 = Sun load sensor issue.
2796 = not defined, but probably related to the sun load sensor.

The sun load sensor is part of the PATS light/autolamp sensor assembly. It is not too hard to replace or too expensive, but it also has little effect on the climate control.

Your no heat problem is not related to this.
Possibilities are (most common to least common):

1. Problem/leak in the cooling system allowing air in which is blocking circulation in the heater cores.
2. Failed aux pump.
3. DCCV stuck closed.

lovemyLS
11-08-2013, 07:25 PM
Sounds odd but every time passenger door closes, it sounds like an empty box shaking around in the dash. I had to clean my DCCV on last LS I had, but thought that was for the AC. Now that I think about it, when I did the test it didn't blow out all vents. Going to try a few things
Thanks again guys

shorod
11-09-2013, 11:24 AM
The DCCV is the Dual Coolant Control Valve. It adjusts the flow of coolant through the driver and passenger ("dual") heater cores. It is associated with the A/C only to the extent that it adjusts coolant flow through the heater core to provide more or less heat to the air flowing through the evaporator core.

-Rod

DeanaFisher
05-11-2014, 02:15 PM
Hello!
I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V8... we have recharged the Freon, new a/c filter... Nice and cold for a day.. then again goes hot on one side and barley cool on the other.
Found great info on here was able to check codes... they are 88.8 on the right and -188.8 on the left... I have no idea where to find what the codes mean.. can any help?
Thank you!

Deana

shorod
05-11-2014, 07:41 PM
I think you're going to need to try running the codes again. It looks like what you provided may just be the results of the display test rather than diagnostic codes.

-Rod

dustin1980
07-05-2015, 10:48 PM
I need help! I have a 2000 LS and the passenger side air is warm while the driver side is cool but not cold. I ran the codes and 1264 come up. I recently had the AC compressor, drier, and orfuse tube replaced. They drawed vacumn and charged the system. Also, since the new AC parts have been installed the car while at an idle will get hot if you let it run for awhile. My front of the radiator is absolutely boiling hot while at idle. The fan and ac compressor are both kicking on a lot. Any ideas what I might have going on?

shorod
07-06-2015, 06:53 AM
I haven't looked to see if it's likely that the person replacing the compressor and receiver/drier would have needed to open the cooling system or not, but if so, there may be air in the cooling system contributing to the engine running hotter than you remember. Or it may have been an issue all along but not that you are running the AC more, you are loading the engine more and seeing the higher temps. Does the temp gauge ever actually get to the hot zone? Does the car go in to limp mode due to the cylinder head temperature getting high?

Hopefully having all the items changed wasn't just in an attempt to fix the unbalanced vent temperatures. The same AC system serves both sides. The temp difference is primarily due to flow through the Dual Coolant Control Valve (DCCV). It sounds like you have a malfunctioning DCCV that is allowing too much coolant to flow through the passenger side heater core. Similar could be happening and causing the warmer than expected temps on the driver's side.

You could also have a faulty evaporator or vent temperature sensor that is causing the system to think the air coming out the vents is significantly different than what it really is. Have you tried setting the temp to 60 degrees F for both sides to see if the air gets cold that way? A professional grade scan tool allows the various temp sensors to be monitored real time, and to see how they change when temperature settings are changed, to help determine if they are functioning accurately.

-Rod

dustin1980
07-06-2015, 11:04 PM
Rod,

Thanks for the reply man! I sure appreciate the help. The 1st time it got hot it just about made it to the red at an idle while I was talking to the mechanic who put in the ac parts. It was so warm that when he checked the high side of the ac system it was at like 450. When it cooled off and he went back in, the high side was normal and had lost a little bit of Freon but not a lot he said from the original charge. Every since then I either let it get to the 3rd mark and shut it off or get out on highway where it will come back down to the middle mark which is normal for this car. Today I put some RQI25 in the radiator which is supposed to bust a lot of that junk lose. The mechanic thought the radiator was plugged up a bit and recommended this stuff. After putting it in, I noticed it didn't seem to get hot anymore at an idle today. So, I hope that particular problem is fixed.

I had a Ford dealership run a diagnostic and they said the ac compressor was leaking bad. That's the reason I had the parts changed out. Although they didn't run a diagnostic because they didn't give any of these ac codes. I think they did a 21 point check and called it good.

This particular problem with the hot on one side and cool on the other has been going on for several years. I just ran across your thread, I wish I had found it a lot earlier. My mechanic doesn't know much about the body controls on these Lincolns. I thank you for sharing your expertise as I'm about to the end of my rope with this problem. Where can a guy get ahold of a professional grade scan tool? Is it something a dealership will have to do? Is replacing the DCCV where you would start with this 1264 code? And yes, I always run the system at 60 degrees on both sides. Most of the time there is no change, however, you can fool it sometimes by going from 60 to 90 and then back to 60 then shut the ac and hit the auto button. Sometimes that will make it run cool and sometimes and it wont. I noticed today the drivers side seemed to be almost as hot as the passenger side even though it has been cool for the most part on the drivers side but most definitely not cold.

agrothudm
03-19-2016, 06:20 PM
I know this thread has a ton of posts but after reading this one and several others for the past four hours i haven't been able to see any clear solution to my issue. I have NO heat in my car and the DATC gives me the euro codes of 1253,1257,1261,1967,2429,1947 and 1676. From my research these appear to be primarily "short" problems leading me to believe i need to replace my DATC. Can anyone let me know if this is a logical thought? Also if this is the smart route does anyone know the other part numbers that would fit an 02 LS V8? The part number i have is XW4Z-19980-CA but i cannot find any one for sale with this part number. The ones i find that appear to be the same include 2w4h-18c612-aa and XW4F-19A965-AA. Will either of those work? Thanks for any help. I am on my way out to the garage to change out the coils, plugs and VCG.

shorod
03-20-2016, 11:13 AM
The code I'd start with is the B1676 code that is defined as "Battery voltage out of range." I'd suggest you start by replacing the battery if it is around 3 years old or more. I've experienced and read about a lot of strange issues happening with the LS due to old batteries, even ones that seem to test okay.

-Rod

agrothudm
03-20-2016, 01:56 PM
The code I'd start with is the B1676 code that is defined as "Battery voltage out of range." I'd suggest you start by replacing the battery if it is around 3 years old or more. I've experienced and read about a lot of strange issues happening with the LS due to old batteries, even ones that seem to test okay.

-Rod

Thanks for the reply. After i reset the codes on the DATC i no longer have any error codes so i imagine those were the stored codes from the previous owner with this car. I will start with the battery. Just to cover my bases i ran through all of the fuses to make sure there wasn't an issue there. I also bled the coolant system and got surprisingly great results after reading how horrible this process can be. I should mention one other thing that i noticed today. When i hit the "auto" button it doesn't matter if the temp is set at 60* or 90* it always illuminates the A/C. I have searched everywhere and can't find anyone having this issue. Any thoughts?

agrothudm
03-20-2016, 07:30 PM
Thanks for the reply. After i reset the codes on the DATC i no longer have any error codes so i imagine those were the stored codes from the previous owner with this car. I will start with the battery. Just to cover my bases i ran through all of the fuses to make sure there wasn't an issue there. I also bled the coolant system and got surprisingly great results after reading how horrible this process can be. I should mention one other thing that i noticed today. When i hit the "auto" button it doesn't matter if the temp is set at 60* or 90* it always illuminates the A/C. I have searched everywhere and can't find anyone having this issue. Any thoughts?

Well the new battery is in and the situation remains the same. I ran the car around the block for about 20 minutes. Ran through the suggested tests and the coolant lines going to the heater core were cool to the touch. The lines going into the coolant control valve are also cool to the touch (got a little warm from the ambient heat but definitely not hot). The test says that if the inlet pipe to the coolant control valve is not hot then the problem is a Thermostat. Could it really be that simple???

shorod
03-20-2016, 09:44 PM
Was the temperature indicator in the instrument cluster indicating a normal coolant temperature or was it also on the cold side? If it was also cold, then you're probably right regarding a thermostat issue. If the temp gauge was showing normal though, the DCCV may be the actual culprit. If there's no flow through the DCCV it could take a long time before the coolant at the inlet to the DCCV feels hot.

Are you comfortable with a multimeter to perform some electrical tests at the DCCV to confirm whether or not the open and close signals are making it to the DCCV correctly?

As for the A/C light always coming on when Auto is selected, that is a normal "feature." I remember that I always have to deselect A/C after pressing auto in any of my Ford products, from my old 2000 Mountaineer up to my 2011 SHO.

-Rod

Jayydog
06-05-2016, 01:02 PM
I have a 2003 Lincoln LS V8. I'm hopeful some of the expertise here can assist with my AC problems also. The AC is blowing ambient air when AC is on from both the passenger and driver side and and when I select the heat, it does blow heated air. I have DATC codes 1242 and 2426. I recently took the car to get the AC assessed and they told me I need a new compressor and I had a leak in one of the AC hoses. Is there a way I can test the compressor myself? I took this car to the same location previously due to an overheating issue and they said the water pump was bad, but I've noticed I still have to put a coolant mixture in to keep it full (meaning I have a leak somewhere), as there is a leak somewhere. I believe they replaced the water pump when they didn't need to.

How do I check the AC compressor?
How do I bleed the coolant system to bleed it from possible air in the line?
What are the most common places to look to fix potential coolant leaks?

shorod
06-06-2016, 06:59 AM
Please confirm the codes that you're pulling. The 1242 is Recirculation door actuator circuit failure but I don't find a 2426. I find 2428 and 2429, but not 2426.

Getting a second opinion is not a bad idea, but regarding the water pump, keep in mind that this is a pressurized cooling system. If one leak is fixed, that allows the pressure in the system to be restored. If there is another weak point in the system, the newly repaired system may cause the next weak link to leak. So it is possible that the water pump was the only leak, but one it was repaired, a new leak formed elsewhere.

As for the HVAC, since you get good heat when heat is selected, does the air become more like ambient when a cold temperature is selected?

I think you're mixing terms as well. "Coolant" refers to the liquid in the engine cooling system, aka the radiator, hoses, heater cores, etc. It's more commonly referred to as anti-freeze, and the bottle you purchase it in will usually call it Anti-freeze/Coolant. The gas/liquid in the A/C system is referred to as "refrigerant," or R-134a. Some folks call it by the old R-12 brand name Freon.

Assuming you meant refrigerant, the only real way to bleed the system is to have someone with the proper equipment recover the refrigerant in the system and then pull a vacuum on the system. If there is a sizeable leak, the process of pulling a vacuum will uncover it because the vacuum won't hold when the vacuum pump is turned off.

There are multiple "common" places for a leak. Pretty much any connection would be suspect, the Schrader valves can leak, there could be a leak in the condenser, and the crimp fittings sometimes leak (more common years ago). Since the system lubrication is carried by the refrigerant, leaks can often be spotted by looking carefully for points in the system that have a wet, oily appearance. If they've been leaking for quite a while, the oily spots will often be dirty since the oil will collect dust.

If UV dye has been added to the system previously, the leaks should also glow when exposed to UV light.

Probably the easiest way to check the compressor would be to have someone with the proper equipment put the proper charge in the system, then run the compressor while watching the high and low pressure sides to see how they react. The gauges will help identify if the compressor is working properly or if there are other issues in the system.

-Rod

Hdpartstech
07-02-2016, 03:05 PM
New guy to this forum.....need some help! Just purchased a 2002 Lincoln LS with the V8, and I cannot seem to get heat or the a/c to work 😡 just get ambient air coming out all vents. ran the DATC test and the only code that comes up is 1242. I am thinking that the DCCV needs replacing, thoughts?
Thanks guys!!!!

shorod
07-05-2016, 06:45 AM
Does the A/C compressor clutch lock up when the HVAC is on and set to a cold temperature? Do you have a manifold gauge set so you can check the pressures of the high and low side?

It's possible that you have more than one issue, such as a stuck DCCV and a low charge of the R-134a.

-Rod

Hdpartstech
07-05-2016, 07:44 AM
I think you are right, multiple issues. I pulled the dccv and the hose that goes up to the upper rad hose was plugged solid. Had to use my pressure washer to clear that line. So I will flush the system and replace that valve, then I will have a look at the ac.
Thanks Rod !

Victor62
07-12-2016, 06:20 PM
Looks like you know your stuff, I have been working on cars since I was a kid in the 60's with my dad teaching me what he knew, man have cars changed since then, this is a comment as a new guy, I have a daughter that brings me her car when she has problems, well it has been 100 degree plus weather here for days, and her AC is blowing hot, so here I am, the answer is here I'm sure, its just a matter of getting it from the right post, she has a 2002 V8 LS, so hello and good to see all this info, looks like a common problem for this car.

Victor62
07-12-2016, 06:52 PM
The 2nd gen LS (2003-2006) does not have a cold air bypass door, but the 1st gen (2000-2002) does have one.
Good to know I am working on a 2002 V8, blowing hot air, and trying to get some answers here

Victor62
07-15-2016, 01:57 PM
The code 12 61 designates A/C solar radiation sensor circuit short to ground. The solar radiation sensor is the little dark bulb on the top of the dash board.

-Rod
Sorry to interject here, I am gonna go through these pages again, or hope to get an answer also, I need to know where exactly the DCCV is on the 2002 Lincoln LS, I went to you tube to watch video, but the only one I found they were doing a 6 cylinder, couldn't find info of where it is on V8, if someone could tell me or point me to a site to see it I would greatly appreciate it, I know what to look for but her engine is so compact I am not seeing the part, if its harder to get to than the V6 I am in trouble.

Victor62
07-15-2016, 02:00 PM
[quote=Victor62;7187165]Sorry to interject here, I am gonna go through these pages again, or hope to get an answer also, I need to know where exactly the DCCV is on the 2002 Lincoln LS, I went to you tube to watch video, but the only one I found they were doing a 6 cylinder, couldn't find info of where it is on V8, if someone could tell me or point me to a site to see it I would greatly appreciate it, I know what to look for but her engine is so compact I am not seeing the part, if its harder to get to than the V6 I am in trouble. Gotta do it myself.

Victor62
07-16-2016, 11:16 PM
As you can probably tell I am new to post on a forum, so I don't really know what I'm doing, I have read the rules and such but it will be a while before I catch on. My daughters Lincoln LS is in the front yard, she left it here, so I am suppose to fix her AC, its a heat wave here in the south west, this forum has a wealth of info and I'm glad I found it, I am pretty sure the DVVC is not working, I know, thanks to this forum, how to test it, and I have read descriptions of where its at and how to remove it, I know what it looks like, just have to lay eyes on it. couldn't find it earlier but it was getting dark, plan on starting in the morn, I have been through at least 20 pages of posts, great stuff learned a lot, Hello to everybody, wish me luck I'm gonna need it, and seriously great info here.:)

shorod
07-17-2016, 08:18 AM
Unfortunately even the factory service manual doesn't list any specifics or show any good images of the DCCV or its location on the V8 model. I never had to service my DCCV when I had my 2004 V8. The only nugget I found in the service manual is that it says for the V8 you need to remove the auxiliary coolant pump. No great images on where that's at, but I would expect you can follow radiator hoses to find the aux pump.

Good luck!

-Rod

LincolnLS2002v8v8
09-24-2016, 09:26 PM
Hello,
New to the forum. I really appreciate all the knowledge posted here. I read through most all the posts on here. Tried some of the fixes with no success.

2002 Lincoln LS V8

My Ac stopped blowing cold air the other day and was overwhelmed by hot air. It's actually hotter on the coolest temp setting than the hottest temp setting. Way Hotter than ambient.

I've had a consistent issues with air in the coolant system. The car will reach hit temperature from time to time, I'll pull over and burp the overflow bottle and it returns to normal operation. None of this has has been related to the cooling In The past, but has affected the heating. Takes many minutes for heat to fill the cabin, maybe a half hour.

So, I had a mechanic replace the DCCV valve (heater control valve on Amazon)

It is still blowing hot air. I tried running the code test but all I get on the screen is a fully lit screen will all character with no countdown or codes. Picture below. Exiting the code test process I hear the cabin doors opening and closing.
https://goo.gl/photos/hB9e7imoWLaKn5ok7

Any ideas where I can start? I can access a snap-on scan tool in a few days, I'll follow up with any ecu codes I find.

I should also add that the alternator had been not working properly and right after the hot air incident the alternator finally crapped out. This had been replaced along with the battery.

shorod
09-25-2016, 09:26 AM
Have you checked the vent temps on the passenger side to see if they are any difference between left and right sides?

-Rod

LincolnLS2002v8v8
09-25-2016, 11:59 AM
Re: post #346

Have you checked the vent temps on the passenger side to see if they are any difference between left and right sides?

-Rod

Sir, both sides are equally as hot. Both Hotter than ambient, both hotter than In heat mode.

LincolnLS2002v8v8
09-25-2016, 09:32 PM
Re: post #346

New info.

I ran the snap-on scanner and there were no HVAC related codes in memory. Ran several tests with the scan tool. No new codes showed up. The only codes in memory had to do with the power loss from the alternator / battery failure.

New pictures in album: https://goo.gl/photos/hB9e7imoWLaKn5ok7

I did discover that the AC clutch 10amp fuse was blown.

Replaced fusr and Yay! Cold air!!

So I went for a drive, brrrr it's too cold in here. So I adjusted the drivers side temperature controlup from the 60 degree cold setting. Both passenger and driver side temperature setpoint were linked at this point. Then a rush of hot air came into the cabin. The same 10amp fuse blew again.

I retested this scenario twice, same result, blown Ac clutch fuse.

Ac clutch relay bad?

Waiting on advice or comments...


Thanks for the help.

shorod
09-26-2016, 08:07 PM
It would be very unusual for a relay to cause the fuse to blow. I'd be more inclined to suspect the clutch is causing the fuse to blow, likely due to a bad field coil. Maybe the diode is bad, be even then I wouldn't expect that to cause the fuse to blow, but worth checking.

-Rod

LincolnLS2002v8v8
09-26-2016, 10:32 PM
It would be very unusual for a relay to cause the fuse to blow. I'd be more inclined to suspect the clutch is causing the fuse to blow, likely due to a bad field coil. Maybe the diode is bad, be even then I wouldn't expect that to cause the fuse to blow, but worth checking.

-Rod

Would you know if you need to pull the compressor to replace the clutch coil? Or just remove the belt and clutch hub?

shorod
09-27-2016, 09:28 AM
The service manual instructs to remove the compressor assembly to replace the clutch and field coil. Based on what's required to replace the field coil, I can understand why you'd want the compressor off the car. You wouldn't have much working room to get snap rings off, etc. if the compressor were still on the car.

Have you measured the resistance of the field coil with a multimeter?

-Rod

shorod
09-27-2016, 09:39 AM
I took a look at the A/C wiring diagram. It doesn't appear there is a diode in the clutch circuit, so no need looking for that. The diagram does not indicate that it's built in to the relay either.

Of interest though, is according to the wiring diagram, that 10A fuse, F1.01, on your V6 also power the DCCV. I would recommend you unplug the DCCV and run the A/C to see if your fuse still blows. If not, then the issue may be that the DCCV is drawing too much current and causing the fuse to blow. There are a couple of plugs for the DCCV along the passenger side of the radiator shroud that are easy to access versus getting directly to the plug at the DCCV.

-Rod

LincolnLS2002v8v8
09-27-2016, 11:46 AM
The service manual instructs to remove the compressor assembly to replace the clutch and field coil. Based on what's required to replace the field coil, I can understand why you'd want the compressor off the car. You wouldn't have much working room to get snap rings off, etc. if the compressor were still on the car.

Almost seems better to swap the whole compressor assembly at that point.



Have you measured the resistance of the field coil with a multimeter?

I'll test and record the result

I took a look at the A/C wiring diagram. It doesn't appear there is a diode in the clutch circuit, so no need looking for that. The diagram does not indicate that it's built in to the relay either.

Of interest though, is according to the wiring diagram, that 10A fuse, F1.01, on your V6 also power the DCCV. I would recommend you unplug the DCCV and run the A/C to see if your fuse still blows. If not, then the issue may be that the DCCV is drawing too much current and causing the fuse to blow. There are a couple of plugs for the DCCV along the passenger side of the radiator shroud that are easy to access versus getting directly to the plug at the DCCV.

-Rod

I did have a mechanic change out the DCCV, And I believe, the same condition occured when the problem first appeared. But, Ill try this and see what happens.

Bbaldonado
11-27-2016, 10:13 AM
Hello all! Just did the countinous code retrieval check got the 12 65, and 27 98. Tried the self diagnostic but could not get it to enter into the diagnostic mode pressing off and floor. Any ideas how to do self mode? 04 Ln Ls V8

shorod
11-27-2016, 12:46 PM
It sounds like you missed a step for the self test mode, which is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.

The 2798 code indicates the DCCV has a short to ground. Do you have symptoms that caused you to check the DATC for codes?

-Rod

Acampbell_2022
06-16-2017, 05:51 PM
Please help...a.c. Blowing heat ....shop says its the blend doors ...is there a quick fix..maybe manually pry the door to stay on ac

shorod
06-24-2017, 09:36 AM
No need to start a new thread and post on an existing thread. I asked a few question on the new thread you started in this forum.

-Rod

gsuburban
09-04-2017, 05:44 PM
Well folks, I've read through all 5 webpages herein and caught the one different change in activating the self-diagnostics. One suggestion says press OFF and FLOOR then AUTO while another says OFF and DEFROST then AUTO (both versions simultaneously).

I tried them both and nothing occurs. Anyone care to suggest why?

2001 LS8 Sport.

shorod
09-05-2017, 08:53 AM
Which button combination you press depends on what you are trying to do, although I don't find a combination of "OFF and DEFROST" followed by "AUTO."

From the Ford factory service manual for the 2001 Lincoln LS:

The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:


can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

--------------------------------

Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.


To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.
The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

------------------

So if you want to perform a DATC self test, use the upper series of button presses. If you are just interested in the Diagnostic Trouble Codes, use the lower series of button presses. And of course all of this assumes that your DATC is at least powering up.



-Rod

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