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Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)


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joegr
07-08-2011, 03:03 PM
I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V8 that blows somewhat cold on the driver's side and hot on the passenger side. I have a code 12 42. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

1242 is an air inlet door fault. It wouldn't be related to the cold/hot problem, and it may not be a problem at all. The LS seems to be easy to set false failure codes for the air doors.
Your problem with temperature control is almost certainly that your DCCV is failed (mechanically, not electrically). Replace the DCCV, and it'll probably correct the problem.

Jimmydafreak
07-08-2011, 11:21 PM
1242 is an air inlet door fault. It wouldn't be related to the cold/hot problem, and it may not be a problem at all. The LS seems to be easy to set false failure codes for the air doors.
Your problem with temperature control is almost certainly that your DCCV is failed (mechanically, not electrically). Replace the DCCV, and it'll probably correct the problem.


Joegr, Thank you so much for your prompt reply.

Yes, I knew that a 12 42 is an "Air Inlet Door Actuator Circuit Failure." My intuition, like yours, tells me that this is more likely a DCCV failure of some sort, so I was planning on checking it anyhow when I got my hands on the car.

I agree that this 12 42 doesn't really seem to have any relation to my hot/cold problem. That's why I posted my inquiry. I was just curious if anyone else had any experience with this particular fault code.

I will clear codes and check for DCCV coolant circulation issues. I'll also try to force the valves closed and see if that solves my problem.

Thanks again for your reply. :cheers:

Bluvnance
07-23-2011, 12:59 AM
:screwy::screwy:Hey I am new here. but I am having the same issues with hot air coming from passenger vents then sometimes all vents. It is driving me crazy Someone please help. When it first started i could turn off the car and turn it back on and it would work for a while but now nothing helps. I ran the Diagnostics and got code 1676. Please Help.

joegr
07-23-2011, 11:10 AM
:screwy::screwy:Hey I am new here. but I am having the same issues with hot air coming from passenger vents then sometimes all vents. It is driving me crazy Someone please help. When it first started i could turn off the car and turn it back on and it would work for a while but now nothing helps. I ran the Diagnostics and got code 1676. Please Help.

1676 is battery voltage out of range.

Almost certainly you have a failed DCCV. Replace it and flush the cooling system, and your climate control problems will probably be solved.

danielsatur
07-23-2011, 02:33 PM
Last best price was $133 for a new DCCV on www.amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com)

Also consider a new aluminum thermostat housing kit and
Prestone extended life for coolant.

tmck413
08-09-2011, 11:25 AM
Well, I am late to finding this forum. I have already taken my car to a mechanic to fix the AC...a month later at too much money its still not working. It started with blowing hot air on the passenger side with slightly cool air on the drivers side. It is not doing the opposite. I ran through the diagnostics (Thank you for this post for having the instructions on doing that) and it found no issues. When I ran the hard error diagnostic it came back with 12 55 error code. I eventually cleared that and it has not returned yet, but the problem is still there. Could this be the DCCV?

joegr
08-09-2011, 12:01 PM
Well, I am late to finding this forum. I have already taken my car to a mechanic to fix the AC...a month later at too much money its still not working. It started with blowing hot air on the passenger side with slightly cool air on the drivers side. It is not doing the opposite. I ran through the diagnostics (Thank you for this post for having the instructions on doing that) and it found no issues. When I ran the hard error diagnostic it came back with 12 55 error code. I eventually cleared that and it has not returned yet, but the problem is still there. Could this be the DCCV?

B1255 is Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Open

That will certainly have to be fixed before the climate control could work correctly. That may be your only problem. It is also possible (and frequent) that the DCCV can fail without any diagnostic code being triggered.

Start by fixing the Ambient air temperature sensor problem first. If that doesn't correct the problem, then post back.
The B1255 code will be either be a bad ambient air temperature sensor (easy to change), the wiring between it and the DATC, or a bad DATC.

tmck413
08-09-2011, 12:17 PM
joegr
Thank you for the quick reply. I will see if I can try this later...I have no clue where that is located. I found a diagram on another site that looks like it is behind the panel. Is that correct? Site:: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/wmarti7/2011-05-31_193640_01_ls.gif
Listed as #1.

joegr
08-09-2011, 12:43 PM
joegr
Thank you for the quick reply. I will see if I can try this later...I have no clue where that is located. I found a diagram on another site that looks like it is behind the panel. Is that correct? Site:: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/wmarti7/2011-05-31_193640_01_ls.gif
Listed as #1.

Here's a slightly better drawing.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1022.htm~gen~ref.htm

Just over the key switch and slightly to the side is a vent (set of slots) that is the air inlet for the temperature sensor. The sensor is just behind this opening.

shorod
08-09-2011, 08:34 PM
The ambient air temp sensor is the sensor that reads the external air temperature, not the in car temperature. The ambient sensor is located under the hood.
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Ambient.jpg

-Rod

joegr
08-09-2011, 09:54 PM
Yeah, sorry I got those switched around. That would've been 1251.

tmck413
08-10-2011, 11:15 AM
Here's a slightly better drawing.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1022.htm~gen~ref.htm

Just over the key switch and slightly to the side is a vent (set of slots) that is the air inlet for the temperature sensor. The sensor is just behind this opening.

That explains why when I got the Ambient air sensor it did not look like the one in the picture you put on here.....although that picture helped a lot with getting the air intake sensor replaced...which I did and it did not resolve the trouble...but I also did not read this post until just now after I replaced it....there's 33 bucks gone. Oh well, the Ambient air sensor is only 18.00 so I'll see about grabbing that again on the way home today and put my console back together. I'll let you know tomorrow if that one fixes it......also explains why I got the 12 51 error code while it was removed.


There is no error code currently though. Should the 12 55 still be showing up on the diagnostic or since I cleared it will it just stay cleared?

joegr
08-10-2011, 12:49 PM
...
There is no error code currently though. Should the 12 55 still be showing up on the diagnostic or since I cleared it will it just stay cleared?

No, the error should stay as long as the problem does. You may need to just disconnect and reconnect the sensor. It might just be dirty contacts.


I think it's back to it probably being the DCCV. The interior temperature sensor being bad might have caused your symptoms, but the exterior sensor being bad is very unlikely to have caused the problem you have.

Sorry about the wasted $33. I do feel responsible.

tmck413
08-10-2011, 01:03 PM
No, the error should stay as long as the problem does. You may need to just disconnect and reconnect the sensor. It might just be dirty contacts.


I think it's back to it probably being the DCCV. The interior temperature sensor being bad might have caused your symptoms, but the exterior sensor being bad is very unlikely to have caused the problem you have.

Sorry about the wasted $33. I do feel responsible.

No worries, the picture you sent to replace that piece was perfect for getting the part and replacing it. 33 is nothing compared to the 1200 I'm already in for taking it to a mechanic. First thing replaced was the Alternator. Now while it may have been on the outs, I really didn't feel that was the cause of my issues.

The DCCV is a little more expensive to replace though...I think...and I think I saw something about how to test it with clamping some hoses or something?

joegr
08-10-2011, 01:46 PM
...
The DCCV is a little more expensive to replace though...I think...and I think I saw something about how to test it with clamping some hoses or something?

I think the part is about $100 to $200 (depending on where you get it), and it's not too bad to do as a DIY job.

You can clamp down on the two radiator hoses that com out of the DCCV and see if you get cold air then. The things to watch out for are:
1. Make sure you completely pinch off the flow in the hoses, but don't damage the hoses.
2. Measure at the DCCV and make sure that both valve solenoids are getting a steady 12 volts. If not, the issue is somewhere with the DATC, wiring, or evap or discharge sensors.

tmck413
08-15-2011, 03:19 PM
I think the part is about $100 to $200 (depending on where you get it), and it's not too bad to do as a DIY job.

You can clamp down on the two radiator hoses that com out of the DCCV and see if you get cold air then. The things to watch out for are:
1. Make sure you completely pinch off the flow in the hoses, but don't damage the hoses.
2. Measure at the DCCV and make sure that both valve solenoids are getting a steady 12 volts. If not, the issue is somewhere with the DATC, wiring, or evap or discharge sensors.

Haven't been able to clamp down those hoses yet...looked in the engine and didn't see a clear path to get to them. Taking the car back to the mechanic today to discuss this again. I do have a second issue that was caused by the mechanic trying to fix the AC...attaching the photo of the lights that come on and stay on from start to off every 3rd or 4th time. Any idea's?

shorod
08-15-2011, 04:25 PM
Are you saying the AdvanceTrac amber indicator, the "Check AdvanceTrac" message, red Brake light, and amber ABS lights all come on and remain on every 3rd or 4th time you start the car? Sounds like you have an issue with a wheel speed sensor or ABS pump. You'll need a professional scan tool to pull down the codes for AdvanceTrac and ABS systems. Does the technician that did the A/C work happen to have access to such a tool?

-Rod

joegr
08-15-2011, 05:03 PM
Haven't been able to clamp down those hoses yet...looked in the engine and didn't see a clear path to get to them. Taking the car back to the mechanic today to discuss this again. I do have a second issue that was caused by the mechanic trying to fix the AC...attaching the photo of the lights that come on and stay on from start to off every 3rd or 4th time. Any idea's?

Have you checked your brake fluid level?

tmck413
08-16-2011, 11:43 AM
Have you checked your brake fluid level?

Brake fluid looks good. I also had the shop run a test on the error codes and they found nothing. I didn't get these lights until after they had the console out working on the AC trouble. :banghead:

joegr
08-16-2011, 02:25 PM
Brake fluid looks good. I also had the shop run a test on the error codes and they found nothing. I didn't get these lights until after they had the console out working on the AC trouble. :banghead:

Probably a loose ground or pinched wire then. I imagine that it could be a lot of fun to find.

tmck413
08-16-2011, 03:10 PM
Probably a loose ground or pinched wire then. I imagine that it could be a lot of fun to find.

Thanks for all of the help on this....I re-read through the posts and I feel comfortable that the trouble is the DCCV. Best price I found was 137.00 from Amazon. While it definitely looks like a DYI job I could do, my mechanic is a pretty good guy...just an issue they haven't had experience with, so I'm going to order the part and have them put it in on Saturday...plus look back through the panel for any loose or pinched connections to clear those lights. I'll let you know how it turns out...just need to get the part by Friday now.

tmck413
08-20-2011, 11:52 AM
Thanks for all of the help on this....I re-read through the posts and I feel comfortable that the trouble is the DCCV. Best price I found was 137.00 from Amazon. While it definitely looks like a DYI job I could do, my mechanic is a pretty good guy...just an issue they haven't had experience with, so I'm going to order the part and have them put it in on Saturday...plus look back through the panel for any loose or pinched connections to clear those lights. I'll let you know how it turns out...just need to get the part by Friday now.

And there it is!!!!!......DCCV replaced and AC is working....I think it even cleared the lights that were lit up on the dash. 137.00 or the part and my mechanic put it in for free....well after all of the other stuff i paid for, but its understandable now from looking at what everyone seems to go through before getting to the DCCV. I'll let you know if anything changes.....thanks

shorod
08-21-2011, 08:01 AM
Congratulations, and thank you for the follow-up post!

-Rod

b08b
08-27-2011, 09:32 AM
I could certainly use help on my son's ac problem. '04 ls v6. Ac started blowing hot air , checked codes and got 2798. Changed out dccv and all was great. After about 3 weeks it started blowing hot again. Again got code 2798. Parts store replaced dccv with a new one. Installed it (along with a new battery) and checked codes and had none. After driving about 10 minutes I got hot air again on passenger side and only very slightly cooler on driver side. Checked codes again and now have 2799. What should be my next step?

joegr
08-27-2011, 05:14 PM
I could certainly use help on my son's ac problem. '04 ls v6. Ac started blowing hot air , checked codes and got 2798. Changed out dccv and all was great. After about 3 weeks it started blowing hot again. Again got code 2798. Parts store replaced dccv with a new one. Installed it (along with a new battery) and checked codes and had none. After driving about 10 minutes I got hot air again on passenger side and only very slightly cooler on driver side. Checked codes again and now have 2799. What should be my next step?

I'd check the connector at the DCCV very closely for corrosion, then trace the wiring all the way back to the firewall. It sounds like you have a bad connector or a frayed wire somewhere. Alternately, it could be the DATC, but that is less likely.

Here's the troubleshooting flowchart for your problem.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-J

jsg417
09-02-2011, 01:55 AM
Hello,

I just bought a 2002 LS 2 weeks ago. It only has 46,000 miles! I love the car and it seems to be ingreat shape overall. The only issue I found initially is that my cruise control doesn't function (I will search for this issue seperately) and just yesterday it started having the problem described in this thread where the driver's side blows hot air while the passenger side blows cool air.

I have run both self-diagnostics that were suggested here and both showed no codes, just the entire displaly lit up. Could this indicate that my issue could simply be that my system needs charged?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeramie

joegr
09-02-2011, 08:07 AM
Hello,

I just bought a 2002 LS 2 weeks ago. It only has 46,000 miles! I love the car and it seems to be ingreat shape overall. The only issue I found initially is that my cruise control doesn't function (I will search for this issue seperately) and just yesterday it started having the problem described in this thread where the driver's side blows hot air while the passenger side blows cool air.

I have run both self-diagnostics that were suggested here and both showed no codes, just the entire displaly lit up. Could this indicate that my issue could simply be that my system needs charged?

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeramie

No, it's more likely that it's the DCCV. (Doesn't mean that you might not also need more refrigerant, but if it's the DCCV more refrigerant won't help.)
Sometimes the DCCV fails by shorting out. In those cases, a fault is identified by the DATC. Other times, the DCCV fails by sticking in the open position. In those cases, the DATC will not detect the fault. Still, the solution is to change the DCCV.

rquan42
10-10-2011, 01:12 AM
Hello,

This post has been really informative. I am having a similar problem. I have a 2003 Lincoln LS, V8 with heated and cooled seats. I will set the a/c to 68-70 degrees and it will start by blowing out cool air and then it will start blowing out hot air. After a while it will start blowing out cool again. It just seems like that it has a hard time maintaining a stable temperature.

Any ideas what could be going on?

Thanks.

shorod
10-10-2011, 06:34 AM
Welcome to the forum!

Have you tried the self diagnostics of the climate control unit to see if it identifies any issues? The sequence of buttons to press has been outlined in this forum. Since you're from LA, I'm guessing that when you select 68-70 degrees you are expecting it to blow cool consistently. If you set the temp all the way down, which should force it to be cool, does it remain cool? Have you connected a set of gauges to the A/C system to confirm it is properly charged?

-Rod

rquan42
10-10-2011, 08:37 AM
Hi shorod,

This may sound dumb, but do i need a code reader to run the self diagnostic test?

As for the temperature...i don't expect it to blow out cool air consistently. When it blows out hot air...it is stuffy and way hotter than 70 degrees.

Yes...when I drop the temp to 60 degrees, it blows out freezing cold air.

shorod
10-10-2011, 09:37 AM
Hi shorod,

This may sound dumb, but do i need a code reader to run the self diagnostic test?

As for the temperature...i don't expect it to blow out cool air consistently. When it blows out hot air...it is stuffy and way hotter than 70 degrees.

Yes...when I drop the temp to 60 degrees, it blows out freezing cold air.

While a professional scan tool that can interface with the Dual Automatic Temperature Control (DATC) module will take some of the work out of getting any climate control codes, it is not necessary. If you go back to page 1 and post #3 of this thread, you'll see some instructions on performing the self diagnostics on the DATC. There has been some discussion that if you have the heated and cooled seats the process to enable the self diagnostics is slightly different so you may need to scan through a few more posts to find the specifics.

-Rod

rquan42
10-10-2011, 11:15 AM
I just finished running the self diagnostic on my a/c unit. The whole panel lit up giving me no codes. For once...I was greatly disappointed to see no codes or numbers come on the screen (outside of all of the 8's).

I know I am not entirely crazy....

joegr
10-10-2011, 01:49 PM
I just finished running the self diagnostic on my a/c unit. The whole panel lit up giving me no codes. For once...I was greatly disappointed to see no codes or numbers come on the screen (outside of all of the 8's).

I know I am not entirely crazy....

It's possible (and does happen) for the DCCV to fail mechanically and not electrically. In that case, you would get no diagnostic codes. Maybe your DCCV is getting stuck. If the coolant hasn't been flushed in the last three years, that would be a good service to start with. That might fix the problem or make it happen less, but you will probably still need to replace the DCCV, if it is sticking.
There are, of course, other possibilities, but I think that the DCCV is still the most likely.

shorod
10-10-2011, 08:42 PM
I'm a bit concerned by the thought that when turned to 60 degrees the A/C is ice cold. The signal to the DCCV is modulated so a slow to respond DCCV could explain the output, but it also sounds vaguely familiar with what my wife's LS was doing with a bad duct temp sensor.

-Rod

OneMnMoose
10-24-2011, 11:57 PM
I have just the opposite problem. I have Drivers Side blowing cool and passengers side blowing hot. Both sides set to 90.

I've replaced the DCCV, but that didn't do it. The heater core has fluid, both supplies and return are running hot. I'm thinking that maybe it's a problem with the Drivers Air Discharge Temperature Sensor, but I can't find where it's located in my factory Workshop Manuals. A little help?

Also I see there is also one on the passenger side and the Evaporator discharge air temperature sensor. I'm guessing these are OK.

shorod
10-25-2011, 06:45 AM
Seems like a reasonable place to start. From what I found on my wife's 2002, all three of the temp sensors are the same part number. I'd suggest you swap the air discharge sensors between the driver's and passenger's sides and see if the operation changes. If so, you're likely on the correct path. If no change, and you're run the self diagnostics with no codes, you may need to find someone with a professional scan tool to monitor the HVAC sensors to see if one not doing what it should. Since turning the temp setting all the way up doesn't cause full heat, you may also have a door servo that's not working.

The temp sensors are white in color and have a round base with a oval connector if I recall correctly. I think you rotate them about 1/4 turn, then you can pull them out of the duct. They are about 3 inchs long inside the duct so you'll want to pull them out pretty straight. I'd suggest you disconnect the electrical wiring before trying to remove them. Once you remove the trim panels between the dash and the firewall from both foot wells you should be able to see the sensors when looking upward.

Below is a photo showing what you'll see of the temp sensors before they're removed. I don't recall if this was the driver's or passenger side.
http://i538.photobucket.com/albums/ff342/raschmidt/Automotive/Lincoln%20LS/Temp_sensor.jpg
-Rod

snackdaddy
11-13-2011, 12:58 PM
Hello all, I am new to this board but I have been following your posts. I'm having a similar problem with a 2002 navigator v8. I have searched for our dccv where the posts stated it should be, however I am yet to find it. We have no heat, but our a/c works. Any info will help I'm sure. Thanks guys....

shorod
11-13-2011, 01:33 PM
Welcome to the forum!

All of the 2002 Navigators have a V8, do you know which of the 3 engines yours has (4.6L, 5.4L 2V, 5.4L 4V)? I'm not sure if they are all available in the Navigator or if it came only with the 5.4L 4V.

Also, does your Navigator have the manual HVAC controls (knobs) or the electronic controls? The service manual groups the Navigator with the Expedition so I suspect the Navigators all came with the electronic controls, but it's safer to ask.

From what I see in the Factory Service Manual, the 2002 Navigator does not have dual zone climate control. If that is the case, you will not have a DCCV. Fast Parts Network lists a heater control valve for the 2002 Navigator and it's only $35 which further causes me to suspect you do not have a DCCV on your 2002.

-Rod

snackdaddy
11-13-2011, 01:49 PM
Thank you for your reply Rod. We have a 5.4 engine with the electronic controls. I also performed the test to see if there were any codes in the controller memory and I came up with triple 8s.

joegr
11-13-2011, 03:19 PM
Thank you for your reply Rod. We have a 5.4 engine with the electronic controls. I also performed the test to see if there were any codes in the controller memory and I came up with triple 8s.

If you don't have dual controls, you should have an electrically activated temperature blend air door. A common problem with the Explorers (and probably Navigators too) is that the plastic that attaches the blend air door to the electric motor assembly breaks. This would result in no diagnostic trouble code. The part is cheap to replace, but the labor is very high because the whole dash has to be mostly removed to replace it.

snackdaddy
11-13-2011, 03:56 PM
Thank you joegr. I had a feeling I would have to tear the dash apart after I didn't see that dccv, just my luck. Guess it would be wise to change my heater core while I'm in there too right? I'de hate to have to go back in there later for that. You know where that blend door is located? Not looking forward to this job.

nuckolsk
12-13-2011, 08:11 PM
Ok i'm back to the same problem and need some help. I made my son drive the ls this summer since he worked around the corner and went to beach close by, so he could live with 460 ac. Had replace dual solenoid and all 3 sensor and still no fix, fiqured that it would at least throw heat at him this winter, but noooooooo. The monster is alive still , now that it is cold it only wants to run the ac. Any help ?

shorod
12-13-2011, 09:52 PM
Have you run the DATC self diagnostics since replacing these items?

-Rod

nuckolsk
12-13-2011, 10:40 PM
Hello rod, have not run it in a while ill give it a shot when i get off work tomorrow and let you know

nuckolsk
12-14-2011, 07:57 AM
Rod - the self test showed no codes, the continuous showed codes 12 61 / 24 29 / 19 46 / 19 47 / 16 76

joegr
12-14-2011, 08:08 AM
Rod - the self test showed no codes, the continuous showed codes 12 61 / 24 29 / 19 46 / 19 47 / 16 76

1261 A/C Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short to Ground

2429 Passenger Heater Core Discharge Temperature Sensor Short Circuit

1946 Evaporator Discharge Temperature Sensor Open Circuit

1947 Evaporator Discharge Temperature Sensor Circuit Short to Ground

1676 Battery Voltage Out of Range

Perhaps these all happened when you were messing with it before? Clear out the continuous codes (press defrost after viewing the codes to clear them), and give it a day or three and see if any come back. You may need a scan tool that can read out the sensor values in real time to figure this one out.

cferrell84
12-20-2011, 10:07 PM
hello all new to the site I have a 2000 lincoln ls 3.9 v8 and im having prob with the heat it blows cold. Just bought the car couple days ago and didnt check heat(my fault) but it had a leaking heater hose i put a new clamp on and fixed that but cant really get a steady stream to come from bleeder when i try to bleed the system. also when up to operating temp the heater hoses going to the heater cores do not feel the slightest bit warm would this be caused by a bad dccv? thanks

shorod
12-20-2011, 10:19 PM
It could be caused by a bad DCCV, but I'd suggest you continue to bleed the cooling system before condemning the DCCV. An air pocket could cause the lack of heat as well.

Congrats on finding the hose clamp as the source of the leak. There are a lot of leak sources that could have easily been more costly.

-Rod

joegr
12-21-2011, 09:20 AM
hello all new to the site I have a 2000 lincoln ls 3.9 v8 and im having prob with the heat it blows cold. Just bought the car couple days ago and didnt check heat(my fault) but it had a leaking heater hose i put a new clamp on and fixed that but cant really get a steady stream to come from bleeder when i try to bleed the system. also when up to operating temp the heater hoses going to the heater cores do not feel the slightest bit warm would this be caused by a bad dccv? thanks

Bleed with the engine at about 2500 RPM instead of idle.

You may very well have other pressure leaks from the cooling system. The plastic parts are known to crack with age. If your degas bottle is original, it needs to be replaced (you can't see the cracks till you take it out).

cferrell84
12-21-2011, 03:32 PM
ok thanks i will take out the degas tank and check it before changing out the dccv i did let it idle for awhile in the garage and didnt have any antifreeze leaking that i could tell but i will try to bleed it at 2500 rpm and see if i can get anything out of it. Also i looked under the front of the car and found that the plug going to the dual coolant control was unpluged so i plugged back in but still no heat

cferrell84
12-21-2011, 04:35 PM
ok so just drove the car to the store and back and when i pulled in the driveway the temp gauge went up to 3/4 and started running hot so apparently i have more prob than just the dccv

shorod
12-21-2011, 10:23 PM
That could still be due to air in the cooling system that isn't bled out.

-Rod

DeusExMachina
12-29-2011, 08:59 PM
Masters of the LS, I humbly bow and request your awesome powers be directed my way. My beloved 2005 LS ("Phoebe") has an issue that seems to be the direct opposite of everyone else's in this thread.

First things first, as previously mentioned, Phoebe is a 2005 LS V8 with the heated/cooled leather seats (which are AMAZING!!). The problem lies in the fact that when you crank the heat all the way up to 90, it blows ice-cold air through ALL the vents. The temperature gauge sits dead in the middle, she runs neither cold nor hot.


Journey to the past, part 1: When we first got the car, the A/C wasn't working at all. Took it to those thieving scumbags.....I mean those fine gentlemen at the dealership (under warranty!!!), and they replaced the DCCV. Air worked fine for a while, and then started acting funny again (would only come on when it wanted to, which seemed to correlate with when my wife was driving the car).


Journey to the past, part 2: About a month after they replaced the DCCV, we had a COLD spell, it was six degrees when I walked out of the house to head to PT that morning. I make it to about 3 miles from my house, and all of a sudden the car starts dinging at me, I lose power, and my temperature gauge is PEGGED at hot. I pull it over immediately, check the coolant (it's bone-dry), add some water to see if that helps the engine cool. That and time cooled the engine enough where I could limp it (slooooowly) the remaining 3 miles to the welcome center on post, where I had a wrecker come get it. Turns out that when those lying miscreant douchebags......I mean ASE-trained service technicians at the local Ford stealer......dealership changed the DCCV, they added 100% dihydrogen monoxide to the coolant system, which promptly froze solid when it got cold. They fixed their mistake, and she's not run hot since.



Having said that, I did the self-test on the DATC, and all it gave me was 12 65, which (by reading through this thread) I found out was ignorable, and not to worry about it. Now that I know that, what could be the cause of Phoebe not wanting to put out heat?? Please help me, oh lords of the LS.




Cliffs Notes:

-2005 LS V8 w/heated and cooled seats won't blow hot air.
-DCCV changed less than a year ago
-Idiots at the dealership put straight water in the coolant system, which froze and caused the car to overheat.
-Hasn't overheated or run hot since the system was drained and coolant was put in.
-Throws (only) code 12 65 when DATC self-test is initiated.




Thanks in advance!!!

joegr
12-30-2011, 08:50 AM
The two things that come to mind are:

1. You have an air leak in the cooling system.

Follow the correct engine coolant bleed procedure (below). If this gets your heat to start working, you have a cracked plastic (or several of them) cooling system part somewhere. You'll need to find and replace them because the trapped air will just come back if you don't.

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_14 2


2. Your aux coolant pump has failed.

With the car running and the climate control on, reach up and feel the aux pump. If it's running you should be able to feel some vibration from it. If it's not, then that's all or part of your problem and it will have to be replaced. The aux pump is just below the DCCV.

nuckolsk
01-08-2012, 07:32 AM
RAN TESTS YESTERDAY - HERE IS WHAT I GOT ON BOTH

1946 Evaporator Discharge Temperature Sensor Open Circuit

shorod
01-08-2012, 09:47 AM
Makes pretty good sense given how the system is currently working for you. As mentioned in an earlier post, that sensor runs around $21 from the dealer. You could also try swapping the evap temp sensor with the passenger discharge sensor (same part number) and see if the operation is somewhat more normal and if the code then transitions to one for the passenger discharge temp sensor.

-Rod

dbnmusic
07-15-2012, 08:26 PM
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

This code does not apply to a lincoln ls because the LS is not equipped with a blend door.


just so you all know this.

joegr
07-21-2012, 08:26 PM
Code 12 65 is a "Cold air bypass door actuator circuit failure."

This code does not apply to a lincoln ls because the LS is not equipped with a blend door.


just so you all know this.

The 2nd gen LS (2003-2006) does not have a cold air bypass door, but the 1st gen (2000-2002) does have one.

crocdidit
11-01-2012, 02:22 PM
12 75 code for heater ? anyone

crocdidit
11-01-2012, 03:13 PM
what is the diagnostic for on board heater test code reading 1275 in continious run mode?

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