Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

Sorry... meant to say thanks joegr... I'm new here.

Sorry... meant to say thanks joegr... I'm new here.

No problems. I was just having a little fun...

I have a 2005 ls v8 and the ac is blowing hot air. This happened after the car overheated, and I filled it with 50/50 antifreeze. After reading the posts here i ran the DATC codes and got 2797 and 2799. It sounds like the dccv valve needs to be replaced. I took a picture of the valve to verify it's the right one. Can someone let me know if this is the right one?

Thanks for your help

I have a 2005 ls v8 and the ac is blowing hot air. This happened after the car overheated, and I filled it with 50/50 antifreeze. After reading the posts here i ran the DATC codes and got 2797 and 2799. It sounds like the dccv valve needs to be replaced. I took a picture of the valve to verify it's the right one. Can someone let me know if this is the right one?

Thanks for your help

That's the one.

You would be wise to pressure test your cooling system. I'll bet that you find you have a small leaks due to cracks in the degas bottle. Your LS is also getting to the right age for the plastic cooling system parts at the front of the engine to start cracking too.

Lastly, a coolant flush wouldn't be a bad idea.

Joegr, thanks for the reply.
How do I go about pressure testing the cooling system and performing a coolant flush? Is there a proceedure somewhere I can find?

Joegr, thanks for the reply.
How do I go about pressure testing the cooling system and performing a coolant flush? Is there a proceedure somewhere I can find?

You can pick up a pressure tester pretty cheap, but you'll have to get a specific adapter for your LS. The idea is to pump it up to 15 PSI and see if it holds at 15 PSI for at least ten minutes.

You can do a flush by hand using a garden hose, but that's not very environmentally sound, and if you used too much pressure you will damage the water pump and some other stuff. It'd be better to pay up and have it done somewhere. A dealer or a good shop would probably be willing to do the pressure test at no extra charge if you have the flush done there.

If you do any of this yourself, you do need to know the correct way to bleed the cooling system. Here that is.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_14 2

Other info...
Machine flushing.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33005.htm~gen~ref.htm

Pressure test.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33003.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_13 3

hello- i am new here i have a 05 Lincoln ls V6 and i have reading all the other threads and tried everything to fix my a/c i ran the diagnostic and i am getting the codes 1264 and 1265. my a/c is only blowing hot air. can anyone tell me how i can fix this, i tried unplugging the DCCV and the air still comes out hot. is there a way for me to check the door actuators some other way. please i help i live in AZ and its hot and humid right now

hello- i am new here i have a 05 Lincoln ls V6 and i have reading all the other threads and tried everything to fix my a/c i ran the diagnostic and i am getting the codes 1264 and 1265. my a/c is only blowing hot air. can anyone tell me how i can fix this, i tried unplugging the DCCV and the air still comes out hot. is there a way for me to check the door actuators some other way. please i help i live in AZ and its hot and humid right now

Unplugging the DCCV puts it into full heat mode, so I don't know what your were trying to do. 90+% of the time, it is the DCCV. Your gen II LS does not have any doors at all that control air temperature, it only has the DCCV for this.

From the service manual: "B1265 1265 Cold Air Bypass Door Actuator Circuit Failure Invalid code. Vehicle not equipped with cold air bypass door actuator. Ignore this code and continue diagnostics. "

Hello all, Just purchased a 2000 Lincoln LS v8, and guess what the only problem with the car is..... Hehe, the AC isnt workin properly. The AC is hit or miss when it works or not. It seems to like to work in the morning and not work in the afternoon and night. Coming from an educated automotive background, I check the AC compressor, fuses and relay's. After all these came back good, i hit the net and found this blog. I then saw the info on how to run the self diagnosis on the HVAC system. Problem 1... i couldnt complete it. When followed the procedure, the system did the count down, and at the end all the lights lit up on the display..... Did i do something wrong? Thank you for your time in reading my problem.

Welcome to the forum!

Which procedure did you follow, can you link to it? The procedure apparently varies slightly depending on if you have the heated and cooled seats or not.

-Rod

I followed the very first procedure that you posted, and also check alldata to see if there was a different procedure... this procedure below is from alldata. The car is a 2000 v8 with heated seats.


The DATC Module Self-Test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The NGS tester must be used to retrieve these concerns.
The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.
The DATC self-test through the front panel display:
can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds . The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window. Record all DTCs
concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC was conducting its self-test.
will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.


thanks rod for your time and input, it is much appreciated.

You might try what's listed in this post as it worked for this person.

-Rod

I need a DATC module, and the dealer wants $829.00 + tax!!! Any help or tips on where I could get this a little cheaper? This is for a 2002 LSE.

Thanks! :)

I need a DATC module, and the dealer wants $829.00 + tax!!! Any help or tips on where I could get this a little cheaper? This is for a 2002 LSE.

Thanks! :)

Welcome to the forum!

I still have a spare from my wife's 2002, what is the part number of your DATC? Does your car have the heated seats? My wife's LS did not have heated seats, so the controls for them are not on the spare I have.

Also, what are the symptoms that caused you to think the DATC is the problem? The modules seem to be quite robust for the most part, unfortunately several of the peripheral devices are less robust and may cause you or the dealer to think the DATC is the problem.

-Rod

Welcome to the forum!

I still have a spare from my wife's 2002, what is the part number of your DATC? Does your car have the heated seats? My wife's LS did not have heated seats, so the controls for them are not on the spare I have.

Also, what are the symptoms that caused you to think the DATC is the problem? The modules seem to be quite robust for the most part, unfortunately several of the peripheral devices are less robust and may cause you or the dealer to think the DATC is the problem.

-Rod

Thanks for the quick response Rod!

I don't have the part number, but I do have the heated seats.

It all began suddenly, I lost cooling and was blowing hot air. I reset the temp and all was fine, for a day. Next day, no cooling unless I set the temp down to 60. At that time, I searched for information and found this forum. I ran DATC self test and it gave me a 19 47 code for the Evaporator Discharge sensor. At this point, I called my mechanic (I still got cooling at 60) and He asked me to run the test again, which I did. However, this time, I didn't get the read out before the error codes

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j135/holtinator_2006/display.jpg

It just flashes the 19 47 code, and no cooling even when set a 60. His thought was the DATC was bad. Does this sound like a bad DATC to you?

hello joegr you said to ignore code 1265 but what about 1264, i also replace the dccv and it didnt fix anything i am having the same problem. the code 1264 is a floor door actuator i tried using the alldata manual but im new at this so any suggestions would really help.

If the DATC is giving a code for a temp sensor, and the operation of the system is consistent with a faulty sensor (which I believe it is) don't replace the DATC. These sensors are not too difficult to replace and only run around $25 from the dealer. I don't recall if it's this thread or another one on this forum, but I'd say it's more common for sensors to fail than the DATC.

-Rod

If the DATC is giving a code for a temp sensor, and the operation of the system is consistent with a faulty sensor (which I believe it is) don't replace the DATC. These sensors are not too difficult to replace and only run around $25 from the dealer. I don't recall if it's this thread or another one on this forum, but I'd say it's more common for sensors to fail than the DATC.

-Rod

I agree. I'd replace the sensor. DATC failures are pretty rare and usually have clear symptoms, like the display being messed up all the time.

If the DATC is giving a code for a temp sensor, and the operation of the system is consistent with a faulty sensor (which I believe it is) don't replace the DATC. These sensors are not too difficult to replace and only run around $25 from the dealer. I don't recall if it's this thread or another one on this forum, but I'd say it's more common for sensors to fail than the DATC.

-Rod

Thanks so much. I'll replace the sensor and hope for the best. :)

-Mark

I have a 2000 ls blowing heat on the passenger side. Did the diagnostics and it came up with 13 42. I read all the post and noone has had this code. Any idea what it means? Thanks.

I have a 2000 ls blowing heat on the passenger side. Did the diagnostics and it came up with 13 42. I read all the post and noone has had this code. Any idea what it means? Thanks.

B1342 = ECU defective, install new DATC.

Looks like it an internal fault of the control head.

I have a working DATC head that I'd sell for cheap. It is for an LS without heated seats. Send me a PM if you're interested.

-Rod

OK Everyone I have a little different problem with the AC in a 2003 LS. I read all 14 pages and found alot of great info but not exactly my problem. When we drive on the xway or thruway 65 to 70 MPH, after about 30 miles or so the drivers side ducts blow out hot air. The Pass. side seems to be a cooler but not cold. If I switch to defrost that also seems cooler but not cold. If we shut the car off and get back in to go home the problem is gone. AC is fine.
I did the codes and all I got was similar to moholt1's picture of the read out on the climate control digital read out. Page 13 post 194, the number part was the same but the pitcures were different.
Auto <- -/ -> *IIIIIII EXT .... -/ = Seat
88°,e ^ _☺ ┤88°,e .... ^ _☺
......8 -> / ......... 8 ..... -> / = man in seat. the arrows for defrost, panel and floor. I hope you get the gist of this . but there were no numbers for codes. It almost seems that a thermal switch went off as if the compressor? over heated. When it cooled the switch turned back on. Is this possible? This has just happened twice this week. If we drive around town it has never happened, only on the x ways. Thank You

Do you get a pretty constant drip of water from the evaporator housing under the car when the unit is functioning, but when it seems to be working and when it only feels cool? If not, check to see if the compressor clutch is still engaged when it's only cool. If you never get drips of water from the evaporator housing then you might have a plugged drain that is allowing the evaporator core to freeze up. Does the air flow still seem normal when the temperature from the vents only feels cool, or is the airflow also reduced?

-Rod

Ok now it doesn't show a code ...but the air is still warm on the passenger side. Guess I will just live with it. Thanks for letting me know what the code ment.

Ok now it doesn't show a code ...but the air is still warm on the passenger side. Guess I will just live with it. Thanks for letting me know what the code ment.

I'll bet you that you have a failing DCCV.
(Symptoms of failure do vary somewhat.)

I have a slightly different problem with my 2001 Lincoln LS V8.
With my A/C on the passenger side blows ambient air. No matter what the setting on the climate control, the passenger side still blows ambient air.

I have done the diagnostic and get no error codes. Any thoughts?

Thanks for any help,
Curtis

Thanks for the reply -Rod on post 202. I had shoulder surgery Tuesday and it will be a few days before I can check. If I recall the fan speed was fine.

Hello, man.
Why dont u go to a authorized lexus cardealer to solve ur problem? I appreciate ur tentatives and the atitude of Rod, but, its not working, and u may increase ur problem.

Whatever u do, I wish u luck.

Friendly,
Ruh.

Hello, man.
Why dont u go to a authorized lexus cardealer to solve ur problem? I appreciate ur tentatives and the atitude of Rod, but, its not working, and u may increase ur problem.

Whatever u do, I wish u luck.

Friendly,
Ruh.

I don't know what planet you are own, but Lexus does not make or service the Lincoln LS I realize that Lexus makes a car who's name starts with "LS", but that is not the car we are talking about. We are talking about the Lincoln LS, a car that came from a joint venture between Ford and Jaguar. If you can't tell that from reading in this forum, then I can't possibly see how you would know if the advice given here is correct or not.

I charged my A/C system with freon and it fixed the problem. It was confusing because there was such a differential from the driver's side to the passenger side. I'm still not sure why the passenger side seemed so much warmer than the driver's side. Also, the temp here in Texas is currently above 100 degrees.

Thanks all for all the info posted here.
Mpres2

a/c kicked off again on xway @ 70 mph. The fan speed kicks up because it's on auto and it trys to recover. Hot air out of drivers side. cooler air out of pass. side but not cold. If we stop and restart the car the a/c works again fine. I have a cheep A/C gauge that tells you if it needs a charge. with the a/c on full the guage reads ok. When the clutch for the compressor kicks on the charge goes down to the line which separates the needs charge to the ok side. When the compressor clutch kicks off, the ok part of the charge returns to normal. The clutch kicks in and it drops to the needs and ok line. The a/c dosen't go out when we just drive around town, only at higher speeds. No codes from a/c self test. Thanks

You probably will need to install a manifold gauge set so you can get actual pressure readings on both the high and low sides simultaneously to condemn or rule out the R-134a charge as the cause.

-Rod

I also have a problem with DCCV! I got 2798 on Self-test. Does this mean only DCCV need to be replaced?? Anyone have instructions on how to change DCCV in '04 V6 LS? Thanks-

I received code 24 77. Any help is greatly appreciated.

That's an interesting code. The description, according to the factory service manual, is "Module configuration failure." The solutions says to "reconfigure the DATC module. Assuming you have not recently replaced the DATC module and it has worked in the past, and you do not have access to a Ford WDS tool, I think I'd start by resetting the DATC (similar to the self-test).

-Rod

That's an interesting code. The description, according to the factory service manual, is "Module configuration failure." The solutions says to "reconfigure the DATC module. Assuming you have not recently replaced the DATC module and it has worked in the past, and you do not have access to a Ford WDS tool, I think I'd start by resetting the DATC (similar to the self-test).

-Rod

Won't work. The DATC will have to be replaced or reconfigured with the Ford scan tool. It's rare, but I've seen it before.

ADeloge340, depending on the model year and options (heated/cooled seats) I may have a working DATC that I'd sell to you for less than what Ford would charge to reconfigure it. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Joegr, any idea what causes these to lose configuration? Does it seem to be indicative of an old/weak battery?

-Rod

ADeloge340, depending on the model year and options (heated/cooled seats) I may have a working DATC that I'd sell to you for less than what Ford would charge to reconfigure it. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Joegr, any idea what causes these to lose configuration? Does it seem to be indicative of an old/weak battery?

-Rod

Sorry, no I don't. I suspect that it's an internal failure of the memory. ESD can cause this in general, but I don't know if it could be the cause specifically for the LS DATC. It seems unlikely that the operator could cause a discharge into the DATC electronics.

If it were ESD damage reconfiguring it wouldn't fix it. But RAM corruption wouldn't be all that unheard of I guess.

-Rod

If it were ESD damage reconfiguring it wouldn't fix it. But RAM corruption wouldn't be all that unheard of I guess.

-Rod

Disclaimer: The related experiences do not apply directly to an LS DATC.

Actually I have seen microcontrollers with FLASH memory that could be restored to correct operation by reprogramming the FLASH after they stopped working correctly after an ESD hit.

I agree that this seems odd and that RAM corruption is much easier to understand.

Well, for the 2004 there is not a designation between the process for DATC with climate controlled seats versus without. Did all V8 models have climate controlled seats?

The manual claims you access the codes with the following sequence:
------------
The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:
can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds . Record all DTCs displayed.
concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

To exit the self-test, press the defrost button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed.

Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
------------

For what it's worth, I'm claiming success in getting the issue fixed on my wife's LS. My scan tool showed that the Evaporator Core Air Discharge temp sensor was not in range. There were no codes, but the datastream showed no changes in the reading and it appeared to be maxed out at 255 degrees F, even when the vent temp was 45 degrees F. Replaced the sensor and all has been well for 2 weeks of mixed weather.

-Rod

rod the sensor you talking about. is that one of the 3 under the dash ( same as the pic attachments to this thread ) ?

rod the sensor you talking about. is that one of the 3 under the dash ( same as the pic attachments to this thread ) ?

Yes, it was one of the sensors on the driver's side under the dash. Off the top of my head, I thought there were three sensors on the driver's side of my wife's 2002. With my scan tool monitoring the sensors I unplugged them one at a time until I found one that didn't have an effect on the readings of the scan tool and replaced that one. I then swapped that sensor with the one on the passenger side and confirmed the temp reading followed the sensor. I think it was the even the easiest one to get to on the driver's side.

-Rod

The panel button is the button that would direct air through the dash panel vents.

Since you got the display to count to 25, it sounds like you ran through the module self test rather than the self test to retrieve continous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). The module self test will only report on-demand DTCs.

The module self test is initiated by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously followed by the AUTO button. To retrieve the continuous DTCs you press the OFF and PANEL buttons followed by the AUTO button. I believe the details are listed in this thread, so I won't repeat them here.

-Rod

is that for a 2000 also? i keep doing the first test and got all ok.

I suspect that would work on the 2000 as well, and if you try it and it gives results that indicate everything is okay rather than some strange result, or nothing at all, then it's probably performing the self test as designed.

-Rod

hello rod,
2000 v6 ls - dccv changed. still blow hot air. can you give me info on code 12 64 ?

thanks

kenney

Code 12 64 is defined as "Floor door actuator circuit failure".

-Rod

Code 12 64 is defined as "Floor door actuator circuit failure".

-Rod

im now back to thinking one of the 20 buck sensors like on your 02

hello rod,
2000 v6 ls - dccv changed. still blow hot air. can you give me info on code 12 64 ?

thanks

kenney

I see 1264 a lot on LS's that don't seem to have any actual problem with the floor air direction door. I think that the diagnostics may be a little too quick to indicate it has a problem when it really doesn't. (Maybe the door moves a little too slowly sometimes?)
Anyway, it doesn't have anything to do with air temperature control.

I see 1264 a lot on LS's that don't seem to have any actual problem with the floor air direction door. I think that the diagnostics may be a little too quick to indicate it has a problem when it really doesn't. (Maybe the door moves a little too slowly sometimes?)
Anyway, it doesn't have anything to do with air temperature control.

yeah , i know, this just another one of those frustrations that is keeping me from the project i really want to do. should nail this weekend

new codes - can anyone tell me the info on code 16/76 and 50/41? 2000 ls v-6 no a/c:screwy:

Code 16 76 is defined as "Battery voltage out of range" and code 50 41 is defined as "SCP invalid or missing data for function read vehicle speed."

How old is the battery in your car, and are the cables clean and tight?

-Rod

Code 16 76 is defined as "Battery voltage out of range" and code 50 41 is defined as "SCP invalid or missing data for function read vehicle speed."

How old is the battery in your car, and are the cables clean and tight?

-Rod


rod just replaced this battery when had problems coming out of winter. been one month and i have had battery again. going to take this one back and replace.

New to the forum - hope you can help. My son has a 2002 Ford Thunderbird (no heated seats) with climate control problems. The entire cooling system was just replaced. I noticed that if I set the dual climate control to 73 degrees it is ok. If I set it to 74 degrees it is hot. I tried the DATC self test and observed the following codes; 0-25, 1-24, 2-23, 3-22, 4-21, 5-20, 6-19, 7-18, 8-17, 9-16, 10-15, 11-14, 12-13, 13-12, 14-11, 15-10, 16-9, 17-8, 18-7, 19-6, 20-5, 21-4, 22-3, 23-2, 24-1, 25-0. The display ended with "-| 88,8" (it looked like a letter T turned clockwise). I then tried the OFF, PANEL and then AUTO combination and received a "12 64 degrees C". I did not know which was the PANEL button at the time so I hit OFF and the Electric Windows Heaters buttons, then the AUTO button to receive the above code. Can anyone tell me what these codes mean? Too much money has already been given to Ford mechanics who are not able to fix the problem.

Thanks
Jack

New to the forum - hope you can help. My son has a 2002 Ford Thunderbird (no heated seats) with climate control problems. The entire cooling system was just replaced. I noticed that if I set the dual climate control to 73 degrees it is ok. If I set it to 74 degrees it is hot. I tried the DATC self test and observed the following codes; 0-25, 1-24, 2-23, 3-22, 4-21, 5-20, 6-19, 7-18, 8-17, 9-16, 10-15, 11-14, 12-13, 13-12, 14-11, 15-10, 16-9, 17-8, 18-7, 19-6, 20-5, 21-4, 22-3, 23-2, 24-1, 25-0. The display ended with "-| 88,8" (it looked like a letter T turned clockwise). I then tried the OFF, PANEL and then AUTO combination and received a "12 64 degrees C". I did not know which was the PANEL button at the time so I hit OFF and the Electric Windows Heaters buttons, then the AUTO button to receive the above code. Can anyone tell me what these codes mean? Too much money has already been given to Ford mechanics who are not able to fix the problem.

Thanks
Jack

The long sequence of numbers is not a set of error codes. It's just a count as the test runs. Code B1264 is an error code for the floor air control door. However, that doesn't fit with your problem, and most LSes (and probably Thunderbirds) seem to throw this code even when the floor door is working okay. I'd ignore it. You may have a sticky DCCV, but it's more likely you have a bad evaporator temperature sensor. You need a good scan tool that can read out the sensor values in real time to be sure about this.

Thanks for the quick reply. The DCCV was replaced - a $23.00 part, over $400.00 labor. The Condenser, Compressor, Clutch and Expansion Valve were just replaced $3,100.00. I will have a mechanic check the Evaporator Temperature Sensor.

Thanks
Jack

Thanks for the quick reply. The DCCV was replaced - a $23.00 part, over $400.00 labor. The Condenser, Compressor, Clutch and Expansion Valve were just replaced $3,100.00. I will have a mechanic check the Evaporator Temperature Sensor.

Thanks
Jack

I'd like to find your source for the DCCV. I haven't found them outside of the $100 to $200 range. Are you sure it was the DCCV?

There are two evap temperature sensors.

I'd like to find your source for the DCCV. I haven't found them outside of the $100 to $200 range. Are you sure it was the DCCV?

There are two evap temperature sensors.

I decided to replace the DATC because of several climate control problems that I have been having. Part number is 1W6Z-19980-AA for the 2002 Thunderbird. The Ford mechanic cannot find the part.

Can anyone help?

Thanks
Jack

It appears to be available from Fast Parts Network (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=318) although it's not inexpensive. Have you tried performing a diagnostic on the DATC to see if it recognizes any issues? The diagnostics for the DATC can be found elsewhere in the Lincoln LS forum.

I am not sure if the LS DATC is a drop in for the Thunderbird, but I have a working used DATC for my wife's former 2002 LS without heated seats that I would be willing to sell for MUCH less than a new one.

-Rod

I have a 2002 Lincoln LS V8 that blows somewhat cold on the driver's side and hot on the passenger side. I have a code 12 42. Can anyone point me in the right direction?