Dual climate control blowing heat on AC (DCCV removal instructions in post #107)

Interesting to read that. My wife's compressor recently developed a leak at what I would call the front seal. It's leaking the compressor oil, maybe a quarter size in the garage per week. It's definitely coming from the compressor, and the puddle glows under the blacklight. I checked the bolts holding the front of the compressor to the body and they are tight. I've tried to order a seal kit but even though O'Reilly's computer shows it in stock, it never ships. They think it doesn't actually exist. I suspect it would just be for the other o-rings and gaskets in the system and not for the compressor anyway. I've never seen a Ford compressor leak like this, I'm not sure if the compressor on the LS is another one-off. Oddly, the A/C still works great, the pressures are okay, and an OEM compressor from Fast Parts costs less than aftermarket from O'Reilly.

-Rod

I've never seen a Ford compressor leak like this, I'm not sure if the compressor on the LS is another one-off. Oddly, the A/C still works great, the pressures are okay, and an OEM compressor from Fast Parts costs less than aftermarket from O'Reilly.

-Rod

I had two compressors do exactly this to me, one on a 1994 Grand Marquis, and one on a 2004 Lincoln LS. I traded the 94 before it failed, and I went ahead and replaced the compressor on the 2004, as I plan to keep this car for a while yet. My assumption is that at some point most of the oil would be gone and the compressor would fail. When that happened, probably many little bits of metal would get into the rest of the AC system and cause the new compressor to fail. For that reason, I replaced it well before failure.

Thank you for the input. I suppose I should follow your logic and replace the one on my wife's car while the system still works well. She keeps looking at the new Lincolns and Volvos though.... I need to find out if she wants to keep the car or if she really is serious about getting something new.

-Rod

Great, is this next thing that I can expect to go wrong?
Rod, you indicated that you see a small "quarter" size leak on the garage floor. You tracked that back to the compressor. Therefore, you will replace the OEM compressor with an OEM compressor, correct? Question: how many miles do you have on the old one? I will now start looking for signs of a leak.

I don't know how many of the miles that are on the car were with the compressor turning, but the car has about 70k miles on it. Since my wife has had the car, probably 70% of her driving has been with the A/C on (either A/C or defrost or Auto mode). I certainly wouldn't suggest that all of these compressors will fail at 70k miles though.

-Rod

My 00' is blowing cold on the drivers side and hot on passenger side. I ran the test with no codes...mine counted thru to 25 but what exactly is the "panel buttons" you push to retrieve the fault codes?
I also tried cycling the system multiple times from hot to cold with no luck. I can hear the door making noise moving around in the dash.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

-Chris

The panel button is the button that would direct air through the dash panel vents.

Since you got the display to count to 25, it sounds like you ran through the module self test rather than the self test to retrieve continous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). The module self test will only report on-demand DTCs.

The module self test is initiated by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously followed by the AUTO button. To retrieve the continuous DTCs you press the OFF and PANEL buttons followed by the AUTO button. I believe the details are listed in this thread, so I won't repeat them here.

-Rod

Thanks for all of the great info, its sounds like i'm not the only one with this problem. My 05 LS just blows hot air no matter what mode it is in. I ran the DTC and returned 3 codes, 27 97,27 99, and 27 95. I haven't been able to find the meaning of 27 95 anywhere. I was already to replace the DCCV but thought i would try the #1 10 amp fuse first and as soon as I put it in it blow. I am thinking it is some sort of electrical issue, but I can't find any info on that code anywhere.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Thanks for all of the great info, its sounds like i'm not the only one with this problem. My 05 LS just blows hot air no matter what mode it is in. I ran the DTC and returned 3 codes, 27 97,27 99, and 27 95. I haven't been able to find the meaning of 27 95 anywhere. I was already to replace the DCCV but thought i would try the #1 10 amp fuse first and as soon as I put it in it blow. I am thinking it is some sort of electrical issue, but I can't find any info on that code anywhere.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance

Disconnect the DCCV and then replace the fuse and see if it still blows or not. A shorted DCCV can cause the fuse to blow. I don't have any listing for code 2795.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_24 7
gives you tests to carry out for the other two codes.

i got 50 41

Rod i see you posted this, any more info?

Code 50 41 indicates SCP invalid or missing data for function read vehicle speed.

The DATC troubleshooting section refers the reader to the ABS system with a footnote of: "PERFORM On-Board Diagnostics for the associated SCP module. For additional information concerning description and operation of the vehicle communication network, refer to Section 418-00 in the Workshop manual. Note: Network DTC(s) occur during module to module communication failures. Network faults can be categorized into two types: 1) Invalid data network faults - Data transferred within normal inter-module message but contains known invalid data. Transmitting module shall log a DTC related to the invalid data fault. 2) Missing message network faults - Missing message fault logged by an module upon failure to receive a message from another module within a defined retry period."

When I go to the ABS section, I don't find a code U1041 (which corresponds to the DATC LFC of 50 41) but the footnote above leads me to believe that since the vehicle speed signal comes from the ABS computer, the ABS computer is the transmitting module and therefore should also log a code. Unfortunately, the ABS computer does not provide LFC's, you'll need to find someone with a scan tool that can access the ABS computer.

-Rod

Disconnect the DCCV and then replace the fuse and see if it still blows or not. A shorted DCCV can cause the fuse to blow. I don't have any listing for code 2795.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_24 7
gives you tests to carry out for the other two codes.


Thanks for the response but i was able to finally replace the fuse without it shorting out. I must have shorted it myself the first time. Anyway now i'm not getting the 12 97 or 12 99 code but instead I get 12 98 and still get the 12 95, which i can't find reference to anywhere.

Thanks for the response but i was able to finally replace the fuse without it shorting out. I must have shorted it myself the first time. Anyway now i'm not getting the 12 97 or 12 99 code but instead I get 12 98 and still get the 12 95, which i can't find reference to anywhere.

The 27 98 indicates that the driver coolant control valve circuit short to ground. Most of us on this thread have replaced the DCCV. Instructions and parts are in the previous pages. I don't know what the 12 95 code refers.

Rod,

Your the greatest.:thumbsup: I will print this out and give it a try.

Having read this entire post, I have to say there is some very good info here, unfortunatly it has not fixed my problem.

I have this same issue with the wifes 05 LS, heat on pass side cool air on driver side. B1265 code as well as 1262,1242,2798.
Changed DCCV cleared codes with Snap-On Modis topped off coolant.
The problem persists as does the 1265 code, I have ran the self diagnostic several times and also scanned it with the Modis and still get the same 1265 code.
I have noticed that the heater hose on the left side of the DCCV gets very hot while the one on the left does not.
The DCCV has been replaced with a NEW unit, so do I have an elecr=trical problem or is it a bad new DCCV ?:runaround::runaround::runaround:

Having read this entire post, I have to say there is some very good info here, unfortunatly it has not fixed my problem.

I have this same issue with the wifes 05 LS, heat on pass side cool air on driver side. B1265 code as well as 1262,1242,2798.
Changed DCCV cleared codes with Snap-On Modis topped off coolant.
The problem persists as does the 1265 code, I have ran the self diagnostic several times and also scanned it with the Modis and still get the same 1265 code.
I have noticed that the heater hose on the left side of the DCCV gets very hot while the one on the left does not.
The DCCV has been replaced with a NEW unit, so do I have an elecr=trical problem or is it a bad new DCCV ?:runaround::runaround::runaround:

Ignore the 1265 code, it is a false failure - Your LS does not have a cold air bypass valve.
" B1265 1265 Cold Air Bypass Door Actuator Circuit Failure Invalid code. Vehicle not equipped with cold air bypass door actuator. Ignore this code and continue diagnostics. "
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm

Is it heating on the passenger side when it should be cooling, or is is cooling on the driver's side when it should be heating?

If cooling when it should be heating, then unplug the DCCV electrical connector. You should then get full heat on both sides. If you don't then the valve is bad or you have a coolant clog somewhere on that side. If both sides heat now, then you have an electrical problem with the wiring to the DCCV or with the DATC.

Welcome to the forum!

It sounds like you may have a combination of issues, but the majority of your codes indicate separate actuator failures. That seems like it might be more a problem with the control head (DATC) or one of the feeds to the DATC that is common between the actuators.

To check the function of the new DCCV you should consider checking the voltages to the solenoids to find out if the DCCV is doing what it's being commanded to do (open one solenoid and not the other).

-Rod

Thanks, guys,
After further reading, ShopKey5 (snapon) confirms 1265 code is invalid for any LS built after 12/31/2002.
So, ignoring 1265, I have no other codes present at this time, yet I still have heat on the Pass side when it should be cold.
Driver side working properly.
As I have replaced the DCCV with a new unit and I still have the same issue, would the next step be replacing the DATC ?
I have checked the wiring schematic and the wiring appears simple enough, going from the DATC to a relay and then to the DCCV.

I failed to mention in my first post,
The "service parking brake" warning came on at the same time this issue started, after talking with Lincoln service manager, (and finding out that I was out from under warrenty by 12 days) he said that it was more than likely the DCCV as it will set the parking brake fault code when it goes out. That is what led me to replacing the DCCV (89.99 from AutoZone/ 400.00est. from Ford)

I hate to be a " replace parts til its fixed" type of mechanic, but that seems to be the next step here.

I'd check for voltage to the two solenoids of the DCCV before shotgunning the DATC. If I remember correctly, battery voltage closes the valves, therefore if you were to unplug the DCCV and it's the problem you should get full heat on both sides of the instrument cluster. Of course that's assuming you don't have a stuck valve in the new DCCV.

-Rod

Rod,
I unplugged the DCCV last night and got heat from BOTH sides.

The "new" valve does the same as the "old" valve in that it is heat ONLY on the pass. side and normal operation on the driver side.

So does that sound like a bad"new" valve or electrical, either wiring or DATC.
I'm at a lose here, Wiring appears to be ok, the car has never been in a collision, never had any repairs other than a brake booster several years back.
It seems odd that it would be a wire that has been rubbed, cut, or pulled out.
If I have to take the dash apart to check the DATC, I would prefer to have one in hand to replace it with if that is the problem.

I guess I'm looking for an educated guess here.

Since you got good heat from both sides with the DCCV unplugged, that suggests the problem is not the DCCV. You could release the wire from the connection at the DATC that signals the DCCV and see if the DATC is intentionally providing voltage to the valves. You'll need to release the wire from the DATC though just in case the wire is shorted to power somewhere between the DATC and the DCCV.

I don't recall ever reading of someone whose issue was due to a faulty DATC, therefore I'd be more suspect of one of the inputs to the DATC. Does the Snap-On scan tool allow access to the DATC datastream? This is how I ultimately found the bad temp sensor on my wife's LS. My OTC Genisys scan tool showed an unrealistic temperature for one of the temp sensors in the cabin. I swapped a couple of the sensor around and the symptom changed as well as the unrealistic value following the sensor. Replaced the $21 sensor and all was well again. If the Snap-On does not offer datastream for the DATC you could try moving temp sensors around (same part number) and see if you get the symptoms to change.

-Rod

The DATC sends full power to each valve to turn it off (as in no heat). It sounds like either the new DCCV is defective (unlikely) or power is not getting to the passenger's side of the valve. I would measure voltage at the valve connector while the valve is plugged in to see if it is being powered on that side.

There is no need to guess at the problem. The troubleshooting steps for this problem are in the document I linked in before.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm

Go to pinpoint test J and go from there. It is not at all hard to pull the DATC out to check the wiring. I'd do that before ordering a new one.
Here's the service manual if you need to look up how to pull the trim to get to the DATC.
http://deneau.info/ls/

... You could release the wire from the connection at the DATC that signals the DCCV and see if the DATC is intentionally providing voltage to the valves. ...
-Rod

Rod - Just to make this clear.

Power to valve = valve closed and no heat.

No power to valve = valve opened and full heat.

You want the DATC to be providing "voltage" to the valves.

Correct, my post was relating to checking for a short to battery power between the DATC and the DCCV, in case there was a wiring issue somewhere that was causing the wire to the DCCV to be pulled high and causing the lack of heat to one side. At the time of my comment we already established that with the DCCV unplugged there was heat on both sides. That means that the DCCV is not stuck and for some reason one of the valves is receiving voltage to open. Is the voltage from the DATC or due to a short to battery in the wiring? That's what that comment was testing for.

CORRECTION: Now that I reread post #140 above I see that the concern is full heat on one side and "normal" operation on the other. I'm used to this time of year reading about people not having heat to one side or the other versus having too much heat to one side as is suggested in #140. So we are not looking for a short to battery but possibly an open circuit. So much of the concept still holds, but instead he would want to verify continuity between the DATC and the DCCV and not to ground, then confirm that the DATC is NOT providing battery voltage at the connector. I suspect that is similar to what is described in the link to the service manual, but the manual should identify which pins to focus on for the passenger side.

-Rod

Ok guys, this issue still has not been resolved, partially because I haven't had time to deal with it, and partially because she won't slow down long enough for me to look at it when I do have time. LOL

Back to the problem.

I have been able to get a graph on my MODIS of both the driver and passenger water valve counts.
The driver side will move up and down as needed when the temp. is changed on the control panel.
The passenger side is flat lined (no counts) unless I up th e temp. to 90, then it will show counts at the upper limit only.
I assume that the counts will be the valve opening and closing to regulat temp as needed.
So with that in mind, would this suggest a temp sensor on the passenger sid being bad ?
if so, where is it located ?
I understand that both the pass. and driver sid temp sensor is the same part # so I should be able to swap them to confirm. Again, where is the location of each ?

Thanks again for the assistance,

Jimmy

I should have taken more photos when I worked on the wife's car. I seem to recall on her car that there was one in the center of the dash on the passenger side and three on the driver's side. I think the middle one on the driver's side is the one that I swapped with the one on the passenger side. I had to remove the passenger side under dash trip panel which allowed me to access the wire connector and sensor. Same for the driver's side. There was a trick to getting the sensors out, but I don't recall if it was a quarter turn or what it took besides patience and trial and error.

-Rod

Thanks Rod,
I located the temp. sensors, and swapped the d & P side, no effect on the system, still have heat on the pass. and working properly on the driver side.
I also was able to graph the DCCV and found, contrary to my last post, that both valves had "counts".
I also noticed that the DCCV made a "pop' or "click" type noise as it worked. I assume that the valves were opening and closing at this point, but still no effect on the problem.

I have not checked voltage to the DCCV or the DATC, as the graph shows that DATC is sending the command to the DCCV.

So, what's next ?
Bad "new" DCCV, or bad DATC ?
:runaround::runaround::runaround::runaround::runar ound::runaround::runaround:
I feel like I'm chasing my [tail] !

You could try jumpering the passenger side DCCV to battery voltage to force it closed and see if the passenger side is still full heat. That would tell you if it's likely a DCCV issue. I suspect not and that the DCCV is doing what the DATC is instructing it to do. You could also backprobe the signal to the DCCV to confirm that it's doing what it's instructed to do. But that wouldn't necessarily mean the DATC is bad, it could still be an input to the DCCV. You'll want to monitor what the sensors are reading, what the position information from the servos is, and see if it all makes sense. Did you graph the temp sensor information before and after swapping them to see if both are giving expected numbers? You were questioning the values at one point, don't completely discredit your first impression....

-Rod

Rod, I checked the graph before and after the swap, got the same reading on pass side as before.
I'm leaning toward the DATC.
If my memory is correct(doubtful) the DATC was replace right after this car was purchased in 2006 for this very problem.

I'm not saying that it can't happen, but I don't recall ever reading of a bad DATC in these cars, or Fords in general.

If you have the Ford part number off your DATC I might have one that I'd part with for cheap that you can use to help determine if it's the problem. I bought it when I was troubleshooting my wife's and it had no effect. Ultimately the problem with hers was the temp sensor. When I put the new temp sensor in and it worked fine, I also put her original DATC back in so I know both work properly.

You could also try resetting the DATC if you haven't already.

-Rod

I'm not saying that it can't happen, but I don't recall ever reading of a bad DATC in these cars, or Fords in general. ...

-Rod

There have not been many, but I do know of a couple that failed on the LS.

OK last update on this issue.
It has been resolved.:)

Seems the "new" DCCV from Auto Zone that saved a grand total of $60 over the OEM part from Ford was BADDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD:eek7:
After checking everything I knew and was able to check, and getting tired of the wife bitchin about it, off it goes to the dealership for repair, and after they checked all the same things I did it was determined that the DCCV was the only thing it could be so it was replaced to the tune of $400 (160/part, 240/labor)

But it is fixed, wifes happy, and it was still cheaper than a new car.
Lesson learned, never trust that the "new" part can't be bad.
This was my first "gut" feeling if you will recall, but I discounted it because a "new" part wouldn't be bad and present the same symptoms as the "old" part.

Anyway, thanks guys for all the assistance and tech info.
Jimmy

That is a very unfortunate lesson learned, but I'm glad to hear it's fixed. Thank you for following up with the fix!

-Rod

I am new here to forgive me if I am only stating what has already been posted.
My 2004 LS DATC is really weird. I have run the self diagnoses but do not show any error codes. When the outside temp is cold I get warm air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side. When the outside temp is hot I get cold air on the driver side and HOT air on the passenger side. This car has been to the dealer six times before the warrant expired. (problem started at 20,000, now have 92,000 miles) They replaced what the mechanic called a heater control valve, the DATC head, and two temperature sensors. Sometimes I can get the system to work properly by just randomly punching buttons, andor raising or lowerin the temp. The next time I start the car I have the same problem again.
Anyone have a fix where I can get the same temperature from all outlets?

I am new here to forgive me if I am only stating what has already been posted.
My 2004 LS DATC is really weird. I have run the self diagnoses but do not show any error codes. When the outside temp is cold I get warm air on the driver side and cold air on the passenger side. When the outside temp is hot I get cold air on the driver side and HOT air on the passenger side. This car has been to the dealer six times before the warrant expired. (problem started at 20,000, now have 92,000 miles) They replaced what the mechanic called a heater control valve, the DATC head, and two temperature sensors. Sometimes I can get the system to work properly by just randomly punching buttons, andor raising or lowerin the temp. The next time I start the car I have the same problem again.
Anyone have a fix where I can get the same temperature from all outlets?

It sounds like they replace almost everything but some of the interior temperature sensors and the exterior temperature sensor. Does it read out the correct outside temperature? Has the interior ambient temperature sensor been checked/changed?

It would be interesting to see what the sunload sensor is reading as well. I agree with Joegr, it seems there is probably a temp sensor that is not responding correctly.

-Rod

I want to thank all the contributors first. I have a 2004 T-Bird, which is the same platform as the Lincoln LS. You folks pointed me to the dual climate control valve, and it turned out to be just that.I pulled the valve and found that one side was completely clogged with gunk. I had had a radiator flush done about 4 months back, and they put sealer into the system. I can't be sure, but I would bet it is sealer gooping up the valve and not allowing the solenoid to close. My next step is to dismantle the clogged valve and to see if I could have spared myself the time and trouble of removing the valve by just alternately closing off one side of the outlet, then the other while still in the vehicle. That might have forced the plug out of the valve. Problem is, it might have forced the plug into one or the other of the heater cores. Anyhow, I replaced the valve with one purchased from Fast Parts, and they could not have been nicer, better, cheaper, etc. I hope my post helps the next guy.

I want to thank all the contributors first. I have a 2004 T-Bird, which is the same platform as the Lincoln LS. You folks pointed me to the dual climate control valve, and it turned out to be just that.I pulled the valve and found that one side was completely clogged with gunk. I had had a radiator flush done about 4 months back, and they put sealer into the system. I can't be sure, but I would bet it is sealer gooping up the valve and not allowing the solenoid to close. My next step is to dismantle the clogged valve and to see if I could have spared myself the time and trouble of removing the valve by just alternately closing off one side of the outlet, then the other while still in the vehicle. That might have forced the plug out of the valve. Problem is, it might have forced the plug into one or the other of the heater cores. Anyhow, I replaced the valve with one purchased from Fast Parts, and they could not have been nicer, better, cheaper, etc. I hope my post helps the next guy.

Here's an extra little heads up on plugged DCCVs. Be aware that the upper radiator hose where it Tees off to the DCCV has a plastic screen built into it. If the DCCV is clogged, there's a good chance that the screen in the hose may be clogged too. (This is true of at least the gen II V8s.)

Well its been a LONG time since I started this thread. And to be honest I "just" got around to trying to fix the wifes car Monday.
Yea, its been that long. Long day tearing into the dash.
Anyway I couldn't find any problems and no codes. Dammit.
But while I was at it I took some pics to maybe help some of you find the discharge sensors under the dash and what the sensor looks like out. I was not sure how you took them out but I figured you just dig them out.:wink:

And this motor is what controls the flap door for the lower vents, your feet.

Well I took the LS to a mechanic to check the freon charge hoping it was low, but he said it looked good.
Dang it.

He said it has to be blend doors.:headshake

He said they are some way up near the firewall that I missed and that the whole dash and steering wheel has to come out to get to them. Oh great.
He was estimating around a thousand dollars if he did it.

So, I will try it, but I sure could use a exploded view of of this area I could download.

Well I took the LS to a mechanic to check the freon charge hoping it was low, but he said it looked good.
Dang it.

He said it has to be blend doors.:headshake

He said they are some way up near the firewall that I missed and that the whole dash and steering wheel has to come out to get to them. Oh great.
He was estimating around a thousand dollars if he did it.

So, I will try it, but I sure could use a exploded view of of this area I could download.

You need a better mechanic. There are no air temperature blend doors on the LS. Air temperature is controlled via the DCCV by altering the amount of hot coolant allowed to circulate in each of the two heater cores.

Maybe the mechanic is referring to the cold air bypass actuator. You don't need to remove the dash to access and replace, just remove the LH instrument panel insulator and the LH floor duct, then go up from beneath the dash. It looks just like the other actuators. You should have been able to access the temp sensors in the same manner. I'm not sure how much of the instrument panel you disassembled.

-Rod

Holy smoke. I have a mess.

But after taking out the instrument cluster I can see two more flap motors behind some of the ducts that is impossible to get out of the way short of removing the entire dash.
Could they not be opening, or stuck and letting the air from the heater core enter and not the air from the ac core?

All in total I know of 3 of these motors on the drivers side and the one up way high on the passenger side with a long rod that I cant really see what it looks like. It works.
And the lower one on the drivers side works too.

If I only had some idea how all this looked exploded and the air flowed.

If you send me a private message with an e-mail address for you I can send you some PDF's from the Factory Service Manual.

-Rod

Holy smoke. I have a mess.

But after taking out the instrument cluster I can see two more flap motors behind some of the ducts that is impossible to get out of the way short of removing the entire dash.
Could they not be opening, or stuck and letting the air from the heater core enter and not the air from the ac core?

All in total I know of 3 of these motors on the drivers side and the one up way high on the passenger side with a long rod that I cant really see what it looks like. It works.
And the lower one on the drivers side works too.

If I only had some idea how all this looked exploded and the air flowed.

All of those motors/flaps control where the air goes and where it comes from. In all cases, the air always passes through the AC evaporator. If you have a gen I, then there is a bypass door to bypass flow through the heater core for maximum cooling. If your problem is that the heat never works on either side, then it could be this door. If your problem is that you have heating when you want cooling then your problem could only be:
1. The DCCV.
2. The DATC not powering and therefore closing the DCCV.
3. A temperature sensor fault.

You won't believe me, but you are wasting your time and money looking at the air doors.

You won't believe me, but you are wasting your time and money looking at the air doors.

Well see you probably know how the system is built and works.
I have nuten to look at, but to tear out and learn as I go.

Will look at the posts on this valve.
[EDIT] After reading earlier posts I will unplug it to see if it closes.

Well see you probably know how the system is built and works.
I have nuten to look at, but to tear out and learn as I go.

Will look at the posts on this valve.
[EDIT] After reading earlier posts I will unplug it to see if it closes.

It opens (full heat) when you unplug it. It closes if you connect +12V and ground to each of the two solenoid coils (if it's working).

I thought I read on a earlier post it was the opposite.
So it want do me any good to disconnect it.

I know, I will find a place to clamp off the hoses just to see. I bet that will stop that hot water.:rofl:

Well from what I see Amazon wants $135 for the DCCV unless someone knows of a better price. I figure if Im going to tear out the old one might as well have the new one here.

Joegr is right, when there is no voltage or the DCCV is unplugged, the valves default to wide open if they are not stuck. So, if you problem is heat when their shouldn't be heat, clamping off the coolant lines won't tell you if the problem is due to valves that are stuck open, a DCCV that isn't working, or no signal from the DATC to close the valves. Changing out the DCCV without diagnosing it could cost you a lot of money and a headache at the same time, without actually fixing anything.

-Rod

I went ahead and ordered one last night. I figured if Im gonna tear into looking at the old one I just as well replace it while Im at it.

There's a three-pin connector to the DCCV, at the DCCV. Find it. With the connector still plugged in, measure the voltage between the center pin and one of the outer pins. Do this with the engine running and the climate control set to 60 degrees. You should get close to 13V. Now measure from the center pin to the other outer pin. You should get the same voltage. If you do, and you are getting hot air out (not just uncooled air), then you have a bad DCCV. If either voltage is zero or very low, then you have a bad DATC, wiring, or temperature sensors.

On my wife's 2002 LS V6 there was another DCCV connector located on the passenger side top end of the radiator which made it very easy to get to the connector to perform the measurements suggested above.

-Rod

Well.......finally. It appears the new dccv fixed it.

And for those who dont have a clue what it looks like.
A pic of the new one. The old one with hoses, and a idea where this bastard is located.

Help! Its hot... I have an 03 ls v6. Blowing heat on a/c. Read some posts and did some poking around under the hood. I was gonna diconnect and reconnect the dccv from the plug that's pinned between the fan and dryer but the blck/orange wire snapped too close to the connection to just retape it. It snapped pretty easily so i hope its just a corroded wire. Anywho... I held the snapped wire together while my friend got the dtc 12 42... I know I need to fix the pigtail before anything else but any help with the code after I fix the wire.

Help! Its hot... I have an 03 ls v6. Blowing heat on a/c. Read some posts and did some poking around under the hood. I was gonna diconnect and reconnect the dccv from the plug that's pinned between the fan and dryer but the blck/orange wire snapped too close to the connection to just retape it. It snapped pretty easily so i hope its just a corroded wire. Anywho... I held the snapped wire together while my friend got the dtc 12 42... I know I need to fix the pigtail before anything else but any help with the code after I fix the wire.

B1242 1242 Air Inlet Door Actuator Circuit Failure
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-C

I would correct the DCCV problem first. I have scanned a few LSes with failing DCCVs and one of them had a 1242 code too. The 1242 code went away after the DCCV was replaced. Maybe the short circuit in the DCCV was overloading the DATC. In any event, the air inlet door wouldn't have much effect on the outlet air temperature.

Thanks a lot 34ford. Not just for the advice but for replying so quickly. I replaced the dccv and problem solved.

Thanks a lot 34ford. Not just for the advice but for replying so quickly. I replaced the dccv and problem solved.

You're welcome shorod.