NOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo!!!

Sorry this is so long, please read it though....


:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: okokok...
trans rebuild complete... check, re-installed in maro... check, shifts properly... check, operates properly... check, no funky reverse lockout issues... check, doesn't slip out of any gears... check, proper fluid level... check, no leaks... check, and so on....:smokin:

The bastard is STILL making the grinding noise in 4th. I tried real hard to listen to the other gears, and couldn't hear it happening, but the engine is so loud it could have been making it. It seems to stop if you grab the shifter and pull it to the left gently and will make it again as soon as you let go. :swear: :eek7:

The trans levers shifted smooth on the bench, the shaft rotated freely, no issues at all that I could tell. The gears shift well, no binding, etc.:thumbsup:

I am starting to think that maybe this is really a shifter problem, or perhaps a U-Joint issue (bought new ones but haven't put them in yet... ok I confess, I don't know how to... help?) or could it be a clutch / throw-out bearing issue, is it possible I got a bad set of bearings with the rebuild kit or messed one up installing them???:dunno:

Help me guys, this is driving me NUTS!:silly:






(By the way... I attached the clutch fork return spring to the driver's side header tubes with a band clamp and that nasty rattle is gone, and this setup appears to work ok.:) )






(John, you could tag all these threads to a Muncie rebuild sticky... I've encountered just about every problem there is to have while doing mine.:iceslolan )

Damn, Jim.

Thats all I got to say, brother. :lol2:

thanks for the input brother...

U-joints need to be pressed by either using a shop press or a heavy duty vise with a larger socket than the cap on one end around the ears and then a smaller socket on the other end that fits on the cap inside the ear. Then you keep applying pressure slowly and evenly and the cap will pop (ofcourse if its a aftermarket U-joint you probably have retaining clips on the inside on the ears that need to be popped out before you attempt this.) As for sticky's I am currently working on the year by year stats and specs and options and production number sticky. ZL is sending me all the info and I am trying to format it in a way so as to not take up a ton of space.

or what i do at work for the U-joints is use a balljoint press without any of the cones....push it one way...take the cap off, then push it the other way and take the other cap off and it will slide right out.

So you take the caps off and then they go on/off (in/out?) easy?

AND...

Any ideas on the 4th gear grind???

It wouldn't happen to be the clutch making that noise would it??? I would think that would show up in all gears.

Any ideas on the 4th gear grind???

.

Case bearing on the input or output shaft?

Case bearing on the input or output shaft?

Would you care to elaborate on that?

Isn't there a bearing insode the case walls at the input and and output shaft side that they ride in? Looks almost exaclty like a wheel bearing.

There's one at the front, and one at the mid plate. I replaced them both with new ones when I rebuilt it.

When I took the whole thing apart the 2nd time, I had to force the input bearing locknut off, which sits right up againt the input bearing (front main bearing... whatever you want to call it). I didn't hit it with a sledge or anything THAT forceful, I did throw a little (and I do mean little) heat on it to get it off though, but maybe somehow messed up the new bearing???

The only thing I can think of is that damned bearing is bad, but what's to the odds of getting a bad bearing from a trans shop? And besides, it spun great before I put it in. Maybe I should see if there's a higher quality bearing someplace that I can replace it with???

Dunno, but it's about all I can come up with,

just take it to a tranny place and have them listen to it.

This sucks man, hope it all works out, but I do agree with 97 take it to a trans shop and let them listen.

I am considering that, I just hope they don't try to give me one of those... "well... we really won't know until we pull the trans and open it up.." type bullshit stories.

Thought this might help the thread, I asked Bob Bartlett from 4 Gear Trans Co (where I bought the rebuld kit from) and this is his response:

Hi Jim, noise problems are the worse. The key information you provided was that if you moved the stick to the left the noise goes away. It would seem that the noise has to be in an area that the stick can effect. I think that rules out any problem with the input bearing. I would suggest shifter, floor, counsel, rods and levers. There shouldn't be anything inside the trans that is affected when you move the stick to one side. Since it is only in 4th gear, I would check the clearance for the stick when it is back toward the seat and the 3-4 lever when it is forward towards the bellhousing. Let me know how you make out, good luck, Bob

my uncle had the same problem with his 57 chevy belair, there was a little metal trim plate around the shifter that needed tighting and the actual bolts on the shifter that went to the tranny were comming lose. Good luck on it!!

my uncle had the same problem with his 57 chevy belair, there was a little metal trim plate around the shifter that needed tighting and the actual bolts on the shifter that went to the tranny were comming lose. Good luck on it!!

Didn't get to last night, but sure as hell am tonight.

97, thanks for that one... I was starting to think it was the shifter mount or the stick mount... and since you mentioned that, I think I'm gonna pull the whole thing off again and inspect that little bastard... give it the old "Spanish Inquisition". I'm also going to widen the tunnel where the stick comes out, the clearance when the stick is in 4th is a little to narrow for my comfort.

(The only thing I STILL don't understand is... why in the hell does this only happen when the transmission is warmed up? I think I'm going to ask Hurst.)

The bastard is STILL making the grinding noise in 4th.

You must have an enitrely different version of the word grind, especially when it comes to a manual trans, because there is now way I would have gotten that out of it. :screwy:

Rephrase that?

~The grind is actually more of a vibrating noise with some metal grinding to it. Hard to expain... chittering noise? Kinda like if you hold a piece of metal (chisel) loosely on a bench grinder and it's grinding on the wheel and vibrating on the guide plate/table/fence thing at the same time.

I'm just saying a loose plate or not enough clearence through the floor would create a sound I would never associate with grinding when questioning a trans, as soon as somebody says grinding, I immediatley ass-u-me moving metal clashing. This would be a harmonic rub/vibration.

This would be a harmonic rub/vibration.

I have no idea what it really is but WTF does a harmonic rub/vibration sound like. I mean... it's not like holding a chunk of metal to a grinder, but it definately sounds like something is getting ground or maybe chewed away is a better way of saying it. I'm going to see if I can record it over the weekend and post it up... however the fuck you do THAT.


(heh... I might like my wife to make one of those harmonic rub / vibration noises!)

okokok... so maybe I was asking for the response this dimwit gave me, but he could at least explain WHY he thinks I need a new shifter...

http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechResults.aspx?BrandID=1&ID=144241

His spell check wasn't working, its supposed to be shafter. :lol:

okokok... so maybe I was asking for the response this dimwit gave me, but he could at least explain WHY he thinks I need a new shifter...

http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechResults.aspx?BrandID=1&ID=144241
Lot of help that guy was. Maybe he was getting shafted in the ass when he was emailing you Jim. :evillol:

What a dipshit, he probably read the last line (which I intended as an honest request not a easy out for the tech dept) and said, YYYYYUP!