96 sedan loose door panels

I just bought a '96 with just 53K miles and it first seemed in great condition. But now that I own it, both front interior door panels are loose, the wood-grain trim pieces are loose and appear to have their mounting tabs broken plus the left door panel is actually cracking in half ahead of the switch panel. Is this a common problem or was the poor car abused? Are replacements available new or used?

I just bought a '96 with just 53K miles and it first seemed in great condition. But now that I own it, both front interior door panels are loose, the wood-grain trim pieces are loose and appear to have their mounting tabs broken plus the left door panel is actually cracking in half ahead of the switch panel. Is this a common problem or was the poor car abused? Are replacements available new or used?
The problem with the loose door panels could be broken or weak door panel retainers. These are plastic and hold the panel to the door. I suspect that maybe someone attempted to repair the window slides, which can break and are a common problem with the GM B- body cars from 91-96. I just replaced the slides in both my front doors and rear drivers side door. When I went to remove the panel, I broke a few of these clips, and noticed that a few others were broken even before I attempted this repair. It appeared that whomever tried to fix the window previously did a sloppy job and slapped everything back together. The clips are GM part # 15600382 and are about .45 each. They are sold by the dealer in a bag of 20, and each door panel uses 5 clips. It is a fairly easy job to do to replace the clips. There is a special tool you can get at the auto parts store to aid in removing the door panels. My left panel is also cracked in the area you describe. Again, it appears to be the result of a rushed job to either remove or put back on the door panel. I started looking around for replacement panels with little luck, but I know something like this takes time. My friend also has a '96, and HIS panel is cracked in the same location. One site I found when I Googled "door panels for 1995 Roadmaster" listed requests from other owners of Roadmasters looking for the same panels. There must have been 30 or more requests from Canada and the US. Funny thing is most of the requests were for panels in maroon color. Mine and my friend's are saddle/tan. While my friend was helping me relace the window slides, he commented on how the panel. clips and trim were broken and how this must have resulted from an inexperienced mechanic or owner attempting to do the job, or they were in a hurry and didn't care.

My 95 Sedan has a loose door panel, makes a bit of noise. I can see looking in from the side of the door that there is a clip attached with part of the plastic broken off, too far to reach in. Anyone have luck repairing these? Seems a shame such a great car has such poor door panels.

I just turn the radio up or rest my leg on the panel!

Those plastic clips are pretty cheap at the dealer. I paid around .45 for each one. Kind of makes it not worthwhile to try and fix an old one. I actually got mine at our local Chevrolet dealer, ( same parts as in the Chevy Caprice of the same years, 91-96.) I listed the part number for the clips in my previous post. I'm wondering if all this damage we see on these door panels could be caused by inexperienced employees at the body/repair shops the previous owners took them to, or the previous owners themselves who attempted repairs on the door components,(power window motor, window clips, power door lock apparatus, etc.) My friend and I took our time to get the door panels off to do the repair on the window clips, and even then we broke a few of the door panel clips in the process. We even used the special tool for removing the door panels. Some shops may not bother to replace the broken clips because either they don't have the replacement clips on hand or don't want to go the extra step to replace them, hoping the owner will not notice .

Just reread my post, I was unclear. The clip is find, nice and tight. It has a chunk of door panel attached that is no longer part of the door panel!

I wonder if the chunk of door panel could be separated from the clip and re-glued to the door panel? Sounds logical, but I don't know if it was tried how long the repair would last. Another option would be to take it to a business that specializes in auto interiors or restorations and get an estimate. maybe they would have more experience at a repair such as this, and quite possibly may have even done some in the past successfully. It may be worth a try.

I haven't pulled it off and probably won't until I need to. I was thinking that if there was enough room, pop riviting a metal plate to hold it in place. If there is room, maybe a plate on either side.

Meantime, I'll just rest my leg against it when it rattles too much!

Crazy glue, hot glue and or expoxy work good for reattaching clip retainers to the door panels. it's too bad eventually since the door panel design sucks, they're just going to break again :(

Crazy glue, hot glue and or expoxy work good for reattaching clip retainers to the door panels. it's too bad eventually since the door panel design sucks, they're just going to break again :(
That's probably why the clips are so cheap at the dealer,(under .50 each:lol:).

The real shame is the lack of reasonably priced replacments. I can get replacements for my 64 Malibu for something like 125 a pair.

Maybe in 25 years our cars will be collectors and there will be more restoration parts. Then again ................

The real shame is the lack of reasonably priced replacments. I can get replacements for my 64 Malibu for something like 125 a pair.

Maybe in 25 years our cars will be collectors and there will be more restoration parts. Then again ................
I was thinking the exact same thing a couple of weeks ago. I have stacks of catalogs for interior parts for my '64 Bel Air, but cannot find any aftermarket or OEM parts catalogs for interior parts for the Roadmaster. Maybe our cars are too young to have replacement parts available. I thought I read somewhere awhile back where GM sells the rights to reproduce parts for some of their vehicles after a certain amount of time has elapsed. Meanwhile I troll the internet salvage yards, my local ones, including classified ads, and will once in awhile check out Hemmings Motor news. Hopefully persistence will pay off sooner rather than later.

Well, I'd like to add my loose and broken panels to the count. My RH panel is loose and the LH panel is loose and broken as previously described. But, my leg is not long enough to rest against the RH panel. Ken

But when all is said and done, I wouldn't trade my Roadie with it's loose door panel for a Park Avenue with a plastic intake manifold, a late model Impala with disposable brake rotors, or a Ford, any Ford (although the new Mustang is tempting!)

Guess we are just stuck with a rattle for the next 300,000 miles.

But when all is said and done, I wouldn't trade my Roadie with it's loose door panel for a Park Avenue with a plastic intake manifold, a late model Impala with disposable brake rotors, or a Ford, any Ford (although the new Mustang is tempting!)

Guess we are just stuck with a rattle for the next 300,000 miles.
:iagree:

Hi

Unfortunately, the door panels are poorly designed. I own 2 Roadmaster Station Wagons. What I have found is the clip holder on the panel usually breaks and if the panel is loose it will end up getting destroyed. I know from experience. The front panels have the most problems. Good used panels are hard to find.

What I ended up doing was using self tapping screws to secure the panel to the door. Sometimes you can hide the screws for example I have used the "pouch" to screw into. Make sure there is metal behind where you are drilling.

Just last week, I checked both wagons, and secured any loose spots.

Good Luck

Tom C.
Littleton, NH

That's probably why the clips are so cheap at the dealer,(under .50 each:lol:).

the xmas trees as I call them are dirt cheap, but I was refering to the retaining clip that they fit into on the door panel istelf. Hard to buy replacements when the clips come molded as part of the panel :)

After reading all the comments, I took a good look at my '96 wagon door panels. As described, the clip area on the panels was broken away and would not retain the clip. So, I drilled and screwed the upper corners of the lower part of the panels to the door frame. Wow!! What a difference. It's so quiet I had to turn down the radio. I can even hear the turn signals and the mechanical fan running. Thanks!

My 94 Roady wagon had broken clip holders on the inside of the door panels. I took off the door panels and used JB weld to glue back the pieces that I found broken off. I used JB weld to glue some metal pieces I shaped from sheet metal to fabricate the broken clip holders that had large chunks missing from them. The JB weld works good. Make sure to apply to a clean area. Let it dry for a day or so with the panel out of the car. Mine is holding for over a year now.

It a shame you didn't photograph the fix. Hindsight is always 20/20.

Courtesy of 97ventureowner: http://www.impalassforum.com/tech/interior/windowfix/

He went to some trouble to locate the page for me as I have some broken regulator slides. With the part #'s, I was able to go to GMDirect and order the parts. As soon as they get here I'll be pulling door panels on my 92 RM and replacing some slides.

I really appreciate the detective work as I was stumped.

I initiated this thread. Here's what I finally did last weekend.

I had my local mechanic pull off the driver's door panel to fix the window regulator (the oval-shaped plastic track guide broke in half, the new round-shaped roller is GM #9666748) because the window lowered crooked. He left the door panel off. Note there are six white barbs that attach the driver's door panel to the door frame - 2 front, 2 bottom, 2 rear. Be sure to use a removal tool (available at auto parts) to pry under each barb to pull the panel away from the door frame. Not using the tool will probably break the barb's mount in the door panel.

I repaired the panel crack forward of the armrest by gluing some 1/16" thick styrene (from hobby shop) over the area secured with Gorilla Glue. Be sure to clamp it after gluing because the glue foams up and expands. A drop of this glue goes a long way. I also used the glue to bind a couple broken attachment points of the map pocket to the door panel. Watch the glue as it expands to catch any excess that shows. Note that water activates this glue.

The wood/chrome/backing trim assembly on the door I repaired as follows; it is not necessary to remove the door panel for this. The problem seems to be that the tabs coming out the back of the wood-grained piece go through the chrome piece and backing piece into the panel's padding. These tabs break due to stress. First, remove the door latch/speaker/lock button panel (single screw and a couple connectors) and the door pull strap by peeling back each end and removing the large philips-head screw. Next, separate the trim pieces from the door panel. With a drill press, counter-sink five equally spaced holes into the top and into the bottom backing strips then place the backing into its recess in the padding (can use the wood-grained strip to align) and secure with flat-head screws. Next, twist off flush the tabs from the back of the wood-grained pieces, except leave one or two if possible that have the barbed ends on them to use for alignment. Take 3M 1/2" wide double-sided grey tape (3M #03609NA) to secure the chrome piece to the backing using 2" or longer strips at the very ends and 1" or longer between every tab or hole. Do the same with the wood-grain strips to affix to the chrome piece. This tape does raise the height of the trim a little, but this is the same tape used to secure the exterior rubber rub strips to the chrome panels so it should hold these in place permanently.