Ball joints are in. Actually did them a few weeks ago. Been REAL busy til now. But now I have a "Clicking" sound Up front in the same or about the same area. thought it was the brakes hangin up. the right front inner pad was in bad shape. but after I changed the pads. same "clicking" noise. anyone have a clue or similar situations.

Didjya grease them joints up when you put them in? They may have a token amount, to no lube in them at all out of the box. 2-3 hits with the gun on the zerks is all she...erm, he needs. :D

I have a 96 blazer and i had the same problem. it was the upper control arm bushings. Take a pry bar and try to move the control arm up and down near the bushing.

Does the clicking noise happen when going over bumps?

If check this thread out.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=575907

Does the clicking noise happen when going over bumps?

If check this thread out.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=575907

nope not that. but when standing still or barely mooving it does it, while turning the wheel. and also in reverse. also when i push the E brake it sounds terrible. could my problem be rear brake or E brake related?

I had a horrible squeal after doing mine...turned out I'd acidentally bent the splash shield and it was rubbing against the rotor! It's making the noise when you're standing still?

I had a horrible squeal after doing mine...turned out I'd acidentally bent the splash shield and it was rubbing against the rotor! It's making the noise when you're standing still?
No, srry. When im not moving but turning the wheel. ya kno side2side.

Could be the rear caliper stuck on or the pads are shot.

Can you target the noise to see if it is from the front or rear?

Could be the rear caliper stuck on or the pads are shot.

Can you target the noise to see if it is from the front or rear?
damn it i was just out painting my interior. iwould have tried to do that on the way back. ill try it 2maro. but im leanin towards rear brake issue

96 has rear drums and could need some work but you said clicking when turning the wheel side to side so assume 4wd then how about the CV axles - look for a torn boot and grease all over up there. Bearings greased and torqued correctly too after the work? Tie rod ends good and idler arm OK?

I had a clicking on one side after I did my wheel bearings. I tightened the big wheel bearing nut down some more and it was nice a quiet after that. If you disturbed the wheel bearing nut make sure that it is torqued to spec.


Mark

I had a clicking on one side after I did my wheel bearings. I tightened the big wheel bearing nut down some more and it was nice a quiet after that. If you disturbed the wheel bearing nut make sure that it is torqued to spec.


Mark

How do I find out the torque spec . Plus I tightened it put the cover with the cotter pin on and figured I was cool.

I looked at the shop manual for my 1989 4 WD and it quotes 181 Ft pounds for the drive axle nut to hub and bearing. So it is mega tight. I used the special 1/2 inch drive 6 point socket and hung on a breaker bar and one side still knocked. You might need a little extra leverage on the breaker bar too. A torque wrench would be nice but most only go up to 150 ft pound I think.


Mark

Actually to clarify the situation. The side that I tightened was quiet. A friend mechanic tightened the other side and that one had a slight knock so I hung on it the hub nut and tightened it a bit more and it was OK after that. The hub might have been hanging up on the splines when it was first assembled but anyway a retighten fixed the problem. I noticed that the hub had to be pulled in on the nut on that side wheras the hub slid home on the other side without having to use the hub nut to draw it in.

Mark

Actually to clarify the situation. The side that I tightened was quiet. A friend mechanic tightened the other side and that one had a slight knock so I hung on it the hub nut and tightened it a bit more and it was OK after that. The hub might have been hanging up on the splines when it was first assembled but anyway a retighten fixed the problem. I noticed that the hub had to be pulled in on the nut on that side wheras the hub slid home on the other side without having to use the hub nut to draw it in.

Mark


Thanks, I'll give it a try.:wink: