my 2001 windstar ABS & brake light is coming on...the brake fluid is fine and i've cleaned the wheel speed sensors...

when first starting the engine the light is off...it comes on after about 2 minutes...and it does that even when the car is in park...i originally thought it was coming on only after driving it, which made me think it had something to do with the speed sensors...but this happens even in park...

any ideas?

thanks

i just checked my rear brakes and the shoes are pretty much gone...could that cause the ABS light to come on...even when in park?

My guess is . . . Yup . even in park.


Welcome boprichard ! (?) ! We can help.

Elaborate please. More details.

Engine size, what you've tried so far, in DETAIL.


Karl

Speed sensors can cause an ABS light even when in "P" if the WIRES are damaged. To find out the problem, you will have to get the ABS codes pulled.

Worn shoes/pads CANNOT cause an ABS light, there is simply no way for the ABS to know the condition of the pads or shoes.

have the codes pulled for the abs system. at this point it could be a number of things. i would lean more towards the low fluid level sensor.

....

I believe AutoZone.com has a section on testing the sensors individually.

I went to autozone.com but could not find the speed sensor testing section. I would imagine that if one has access to an oscilloscope the wheel sensors could be a straightforward test.

Make sure the level is at the max line. The ABS system is sensitive to the level. The level will go down as the pads/shoes wear.

It ain't much, but here is a little:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3f/26/0900823d801d3f26.jsp

They don't have even this much on the '99 and later.

After checking my Alldata subscription, the test procedure for a 1999 Windstar is as follows:

Measure the resistance between the two pins (component side) of the suspect anti-lock brake sensor connector.

- Is the resistance between 1710 and 2200 ohms?

YES - Repair the circuit in question.

NO - Install a new anti-lock brake sensor.

It also says to physically check the sensor for damaged or missing teeth and replace if necessary. Also, wiggle the sensor at the wheel end, feeling if it is loose. If loose, retorque the sensor. If there is any sign of water entry, pin corrosion or excessive debris, the sensor should be replaced.

the problem with these suggestions is that we're not sure its the speed sensor(s) if you get the codes that might give us a better direction as to what the problem might be

the problem with these suggestions is that we're not sure its the speed sensor(s)

If the resistance values are outside of the ranges listed then you do know that the particular speed sensor is bad. Granted without the codes you'd have to test all 4 wheel sensors, but if any of them are outside of the range then you know its bad and can be replaced. No gaurantee that will be the only issue, but you might get lucky.

I agree with LewisNC100. It is a very easy test and can save a lot of time and money in the long run.

I wonder if Adbradley entered a typo when he typed "1710 and 200 ohms".

It ain't much, but here is a little:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3f/26/0900823d801d3f26.jsp

They don't have even this much on the '99 and later.

Thanks 12ounce. Silly me I only checked the 99's.

I agree with LewisNC100. It is a very easy test and can save a lot of time and money in the long run.

I wonder if Adbradley entered a typo when he typed "1710 and 200 ohms".
if unable to pull codes then you have to work with what you can

DRW
What do you think of those photo illustrations on that link? Hard to see the ABS sensors in those shots!

I agree with LewisNC100. It is a very easy test and can save a lot of time and money in the long run.

I wonder if Adbradley entered a typo when he typed "1710 and 200 ohms".

You are correct. It should have read "between 1710 and 2200 ohms". I corrected my earlier posting...

DRW
What do you think of those photo illustrations on that link? Hard to see the ABS sensors in those shots!


LOL.............I had to go and check again. The photos are very "illuminating."

if unable to pull codes then you have to work with what you can

I was agreeing with the resistance measurement as a first check.

You are correct. It should have read "between 1710 and 2200 ohms". I corrected my earlier posting...

Great now everything makes sense.

I was agreeing with the resistance measurement as a first check.
so if you had a scanner that was capable of reading ABS codes you would still perform the resistance check first? that just doesn't make any sense to me, i'm not ruling out that it could be the sensors but pulling the codes(if able to) and going from there would just make more sense than checking the resistance of all 4 sensors

so if you had a scanner that was capable of reading ABS codes you would still perform the resistance check first? that just doesn't make any sense to me, i'm not ruling out that it could be the sensors but pulling the codes(if able to) and going from there would just make more sense than checking the resistance of all 4 sensors

No.........If I had a scanner that was capable of reading the codes I would have done so before coming into a forum to say my ABS light was on.

I have ABS codes for the RF sensor, and have ohm'd out the sensor, and watched the signals while someone else drives.

There is no problem that I can see with our Van, but the ABS codes keep comming back the very next time it is driven over 22 MPH.

The teeth on the tone ring are all there and clean, the wires are all ok with no crimps or other damage.

My conclusion is that the ABS systems on the Wind/FreeStar vans are not very durable.