HELP my 97 T Bird Beauty

OK

I am going to start from the top on this one. I own an extremely late model (August) 1997 Ford Thunderbird LX 4.6L V8. I love it. It is blue and my second one. My girlfriend thought I bought my old car back! I had a 1994 same everything except the 3.8 which I can now say is a dog compared to the beastly V8 in comparison to this vehicle’s weight. At any rate I have numerous questions as I have had some issues already. I will start with the easiest. I am in the Air Force and live in Germany. I have the pleasure of taking my beauty out on the Autobahn any time I like. She drives wonderful but the restrictor at 105 mph is a bummer. I have little 4 bangers passing me! So Question number 1:

Is there way that I can take the restriction off?

If I were not in Germany I would not do it but trust me she has a ton more to offer and at times I could use it!!!


Now onto more troubling issues. The alarm system recently gave me issues. My girlfriend was in from the states and the damn thing would not start for 3 hours. I disconnected the battery and tried everything I could think of. Finally I had to have Germany’s version of AAA come out and jump the starter! I got it home and the next day took it to the shop on base and worked on it myself for a while. I opened the panel under the steering column and disconnected the wires to the security module that linked to the starter. It still would not start. Then I noticed the kill switch and figured out that if I held that in it would allow me to start my car. BINGO. All back together and on my way. My girlfriend and I go to a local castle to bum around and later that afternoon same old crap. Finally she started and I was pissed so I took it straight to the Ford Dealer. I was so frustrated I told the guy to remove the whole security system! I get a call on Friday saying it is all out but the starter is bad and they want 560 Euro (About 625 American) to fix it. I said BS I will get it Monday as they replied that it does start sometimes. The mechanic said he thinks the starter is damage from me trying to start it so many times. So this morning I picked it up and took my girlfriend to the airport. She ran fine (The car LOL). I have tried starting it about 15 times today and it fires right up every time. So I am happy about this BUT now the heater / AC blower does not work. I have read up and down on here and nothing seems to match up. So question number 2:

Is it possible that the security system could have screwed up the blower somehow?

I sincerely do not mind the system being out as I live on base and security is not an issue for me now. I would however like to hook just the minimum back up so I can get the keyless entry benefit. So Question number 3:

Is it possible for me to hook up just the keyless entry party of the system and do I risk screwing with the ignition again?

To say the least I am frustrated and pissed about the whole situation. I am sure there was a simple solution to the system rather than having it out and I am almost sure the blower is now not working because of it!!!! PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!:banghead:

For the speed you either need to get a new computer for it or put a toggle switch in the speed sensor so you can cut it off, but you won't be able to tell how fast your going when you have it cut off. I would just go with aftermarket keyless entry they don't cost that much and don't cause issues with the ignition. The alarm system could have, if it is on the same circuit, messed up the blower if it shorted out or something, but I'm not sure of the setup.

Question 2: No. There is an in-line fuse (30A) for the blower that is outside the fuse box (Primary Junction Block) under the dash. While you were messing around under the dash you may have disconnected some wires or unplugged the fuse by mistake. There should be a GY/Y wire and a BR/O wire going to the fuse. The GY/Y wire will go to the ignition switch in two places and the BR/O wire will go to the AC Function Selector switch or the Blower Motor Speed Controller (for SATC systems). Do you have Semi=Automatic Temp Control or just the AC/Heater?

Hey man, what's your afsc?

4T051 here. And sorry - I have no info for ya; I drive the "dog" you speak of.... :P

I am 3NOX2.


Tbird97 - I have the regular A/C and Heating. I miss the more advanced one. None the less I will look this weekend as I plan on working on it then. I am not sure what those little GY thing means as far as wires go. If you could elaborate that would be great. I will keep you posted and THANK YOU.

Green-Yellow w/ a Yellow Stripe.

GY/Y= Grey with Yellow stripe
BR/O= Brown with Orange stripe
Check the connections on the blower, blower speed switch and the resistors pack. The resistor pack is next to the blower motor. When you start messing around under the dash it's easy to disconnect wires you didn't intend to so check every connector you can find to be sure the connections are tight.

Ok so today after changing my oil I took the panel out under the steering column. I looked but there were so many wires I could not figure it out. I also let the glove compartment down and checked the connection with the blower. It was fine. I get a little A/C and Heat when I put it on but the blower is definitely not working. To tops things off I am now getting a scratching noise right after my car starts up. I am pretty sure the starter is going but cannot figure out what that wretched noise is. I am going to take it to the dealer for the blower issue as I am sure they disconnected something when taking out my security system. Any tips or suggestions would be great. Thanks again.:frown:

OK

I am in the Air Force and live in Germany. I have the pleasure of taking my beauty out on the Autobahn any time I like. She drives wonderful but the restrictor at 105 mph is a bummer. I have little 4 bangers passing me! So Question number 1:

Is there way that I can take the restriction off?


You will need a computer chip to remove the speed limiter.
I suggest Blue Oval Chips. (http://www.blueovalchips.com/singlechip.php) $325.00

Keep in mind these cars were not produced to run at high speeds.
You should get all your suspension (front & rear) checked very closely.
The brakes also.
Be sure you are running the appropriate speed rated tires.

You might consider either having your current driveshaft checked for balance or
purchase an after-market, 1-piece, balanced driveshaft.
Our MN-12s have a rather long driveshaft in relations to most other vehicles out there.
This makes for a weak link,and a potential failure considering its OE design as a tube-in-tube 2-piece part.

Lastly, when you tend to hold these stock motors at High RPM for long periods of time
you tend to starve the motor of oil due to oil wrap up.
Oil stravation is a huge issue with the drainbacks being so small on the modular,
it tends to puddle all of the oil in the cylinder head.

Check out this site and see if there is something that might help, they do have the chips.
http://www.supercoupeperformance.com/

I have a 97 t-bird and every time I turn on my A/C The thermostat goes way up. Is that a blown head gasket or what I have changed the thermostat and all the fuses to the electric fan. All of that is working great but I need some help.

You may have a restricted cooling system. Try flushing the cooling system.

Well I finally got mine working. Last Saturday after a trip back to the states, I replaced the heater core hose and put new clamps on it. I then intended to put the new starter in as I did not want to mess around with it not starting. Over night the damn thing leaked again. This was the issue all along I think. Anti freeze leaked onto the starter cause it would not spring back after starting the car or would completely cease. At any rate a buddy and I decided to take out the copper valve that came out of the back/ top of the engine. Boy was it bad. The little O ring was shot and there was a ton of corrosion on it. So we wired brushed it and put a new O ring on it and then put it back in tightly. I put the heater core hose back in and then replaced the starter. She’s running great now. My only fear was that the fly wheel was damaged a bit. It chirps for like 1 second every once in a while, I think 1 small part of it may be a little rough so I will have to keep and eye on it. As far as the AC it was the fuse in the main box in the engine bay. No biggie there. In the end I am pissed that I do not have the keyless entry system and alarm system but I can always get an aftermarket one put it. Thanks everyone for your help.

OK

Now I have a small crack on the plastic piece that the copper valve sits in. It seems to leak the anti freeze after building pressure. What is this part called? It seems to be apart of the top of the engine almost. I know once I get this fixed it will not leak anymore. PLEASE HELP!

... At any rate a buddy and I decided to take out the copper valve that came out of the back/ top of the engine.
...
Now I have a small crack on the plastic piece that the copper valve sits in. It seems to leak the anti freeze after building pressure. What is this part called? It seems to be apart of the top of the engine almost. I know once I get this fixed it will not leak anymore. PLEASE HELP!
That would be your intake manifold.
Be sure to get an updated replacement with an aluminum water crossover.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v502/Tigerstar/pi_intake_manifold.jpg

OK.

OK.

So after replacing the intake manifold with a buddy I drove it home without the vacuum lines attached as the old ones were basically dry rotted and snapped off before the new intake manifold installation. When I got home that night the Catalytic converter was red hot. Since then the car makes a popping sound when I accelerate and just drives like crap. I am almost 100% sure that the intake manifold is tightened down fine. We put the computer on it and it does say that 2 pistons are misfiring. Could it be that I ruined the Catalytic converter and need to clean it out/ replace it to allow the engine to breathe and run soother? please help this situation is killing my love for this wonderful automobile!!!!!!

Check all plugs and wires, along with firing order. Make sure the plugs didnt get fouled from any stray coolant. Make sure they are the correct PLATINUM plugs, personally I prefer autolites. Make sure the wires are all good, no arcs and no damage to the insulation. Ensure they're all securely snapped to the plugs and coil packs. Make sure you get ALL the vacuum lines hooked back up where they belong. A vacuum leak can potentially cause a lean condition. Don't drive it when its throwing misfire codes, especially if the check engine light is flashing. That means that the misfire is being detected constantly.

Yes make sure the plugs and wires are good and in the correct position. Ive had a couple bad experiences with Bosch and Autolite plugs both platinum plugs. Go with Motorcraft. They are GREAT plugs and they last a very long time. If those are all fine (which I think they might be) then Id start to think your cat is plugged. The glowing red hot indicates that its not flowing properly (probably) and the misfire could very well be a symptom of the plugged cat (exhaust gas backed up in the cylinder). There are 3 cats on these cars. Which cat was glowing red?

Your manifold needs to replace promptly. You don't want it to rupture further while going 105mph on the Autobahn. As JR Tigerstar says, be sure and get the new design with the aluminum crossover. Here's a link to site with all sorts of info on the manifold problem you describe...

http://www.autoclinix.com/Manifold.htm

On second thought I'd be willing to bet you just got 2 of the plug wires switched around.

OK Guys sorry it’s been so long but this car is killing me. I still love it but at this point I may just sell it after it starts running. So I took your advice and quit driving it but by the time I did that it would not start which was when it got to the shop. I got a great German guy working on it and he’s had 2 other guys that work on v 8s working on it as well. So here’s the update. They took everything out again and put the manifold back in making sure everything was perfect. They hooked it up to computers and made sure it was working correctly and the compression was right. They replaced the wires and spark plugs too. The only problem now is the damn thing will not start. It just kicks and kicks and kicks but will not turn over. As you can see on page 1 I had the alarm system removed but I feel like it may be an electronic problem now. I am pretty confident that it will run great once we can get it to start and tweak it from there but this is killing me. I still have all the wires and alarm box which I am taking to him but does anyone have any suggestions at this point? Please this thing has been a pain for 9 months now.... Thanks guys Rob.

"It just kicks and kicks and kicks but will not turn over."
Do you mean it will turn over and not start? You said the compression was checked so it must have turned over to do that. Can you hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key to Start or Run? Do you have 12V at the red/light green wire at the coil packs when the key is in the Start or Run position? Using a timing light should tell you if the plugs are firing. You could disconnect the exhaust in front of the cat that was glowing red to rule out any blockage in the cat.

My suggestion, in all honesty, is to stop fooling with it yourself and let the german guys take care of it. You'll only cause yourself more headaches dicking with it now, just get it fixed and you won't have to touch it again.